Video

Smoke detectors are a government conspiracy to get you to voluntarily maintain listening devices in your home in coordination with Japanese battery company Energizer. Let them beep!

Worked like a charm. Lights been off for years

@@Divorceization nice man, thanks a ton for the video, subscribed 🇺🇲👍

Probably not much just some light wet sanding then polish away. Maybe 1 night of Netflix and polish

Whats up?

U could do either but finish with wet sanding

Haha nope, the place burned down so I had to move

This video is a bit old now, I am not sure you can find the anderson speed hammer but if you can it's always worth a shot!

Absolutely but to gold plate you usually have to plate copper followed by nickel I believe but the mirror finish would look very sharp. Just buy an electroplating kit and follow their instructions

@@Divorceizationoh okay thanks. Will sanding by hand also work on lower and upper receiver that comes in black(anodized)

@@Divorceizationor will you recommend something else to remove them

@@Jose-el7rf get the black off using the easy off oven cleaner then sand to perfection and you could then plate it copper>nickel>gold. You don't have to get all of the black off using the oven cleaner but it will make it easy. That anodized layer is fairly hard so it will save you from some heavier sanding.

thank you

They typically work pretty well in manufacture lowers due to the precise dimensions. But 80% lowers can be off by just a hair and cause these issues. But mainly one of the problems is for sure that IDS spring. They'd probably do nothing but send another one which would do the same. My only hope is someone that works there sees this and implements changes on their end.

@@Divorceization That makes sense. I understand. And, I can see them telling you they can’t help if it’s an 80% lower. Thanks for putting out this detailed information.

Truth

Another happy customer =]

Yup but you just soak it in oven cleaner even longer and keep retreating. If it's been cerakoted you will have to sand it off or blast it. Once you've got it mostly stripped just start polishing. Others have mentioned doing a hot lye bath outside. But that wasn't realistic for me in an apartment

Glad we could help, it's a great trigger otherwise. Just needed some tweaks. Wish Franklin binary would watch the video lol

@Hewhoremains420 i actually have one and it suck

Enjoy my friend

The dark color stuff is actually a moly lubricant it is most effectively remove with about 400-600 sand paper. Then once its all off. Give it one oven cleaner and sand it with 800, 1200, 2000 and polish it with some mothers polish and a rag

I have become one with the beeping. It is the song of silence. A reminder of time. Beep......... beep........ beep...... knowing the beep will come again is the only truth I can rely on. It is always there for me, surrounding us with its call. Many have come and gone since this video... but the beep remains.

@@Divorceization lmaooo

No, the geometry will not change by using a stronger or weaker spring. The BCG pushes the hammer back and it makes contact with the trigger assembly in the problem areas in the video. You will either need to try a different hammer, grind your hammer, or grind away the problem area as mentioned

@@Divorceization Yes, but the BCG moves the hammer to a certain extent and the rest of the movement is by momentum. Perhaps with a stronger hammer spring, it could prevent the hammer from continuing to go too far and reset the IDS. For example, If you were to pull the charging hammer manually, the hammer probably wouldn’t reset the IDS.

@@fatfree69 it takes 10 minutes to try. But I never use anything but the strongest spring for the hammer as I want to ensure to avoid light primer strikes and it happened regardless. At this point, you are theorizing about it. Go try, and you will see what your result is. But my experience and best guess, says you will need to modify the other parts. I'm not trying to be rude but if you think your way is better go try it and report back your findings. Someone, years from now will appreciate the data.

@@Divorceization Oh, no, not saying my theory is correct. Wasn’t sure if it was already tried on your end. I haven’t test fire yet as my dry fire Franklin manual test has already failed at this very problem. It makes me wonder how others have it working out of the box, while you and I need to shave the IDS. Bad batch?

@@fatfree69 some have said Franklin's hammers themselves are out of spec. Another option would be a completely different hammer than the mil spec style. Look up something called a lightweight speed hammer. It doesn't have the tail which is what hits the ids. Anderson manufacturing has an interesting one as well.

It's actually polished raw aluminum. I have an F1 raw AR. Mine hasn't been mirror polished tho and I prefer the Mad-Max look it has that way instead of the super shine. Another little secret I stumbled across tho, is to go search the web for raw unfinished AR parts and you'll see they sell for way cheaper too. I guess they're sold this way to dealers who build and then paint them at a discount. But myself I kinda like the raw look. Handguards and upper recievers for like 50$ that cost tons more if painted or anodized. Some folks paint thier rifles camo etc anyways. Worth a check tho

@@hughgrection3052 nice

Excellent info thank you!

I have a BFS111 in my MPX and at times I seem to outrun the trigger. Does bobbing the hammer this way help that any?

@@hughgrection3052 if you mean you are pulling and releasing faster than the cycle of the weapon you either need to practice more to get your tempo down better and accept the slower cyclic rate of the weapon. Otherwise, if you are looking to increase the cyclic rate of fire you will need to swap to a lightweight bolt carrier group and lightened buffer/spring assembly. You can also add an adjustable gas block to increase the gas on the action (a last resort as this increases dirt accumulation). Lightweight carrier and buffer groups also have drawbacks in their increase to the felt recoil of the weapon. If it were me I would try a lighter buffer and spring combo kit and play around with mixing and matching the buffers and springs until you are happy. If you still need more speed, you'll need to add more gas or shave weight off of the bolt assembly.

@@Divorceization all true. But it's a MPX tho and not exactly an AR. I'll have to order the aftermarket spring kits maybe for the carriage assembly later maybe. It's just a range toy atm tho so it don't bug me that much tbh. If it was a quick fix tho I'd pursue it more I guess but it's fine thx. I do however own a F1 that's raw like yours but I never mirror polished it yet. I may do so one day. But I put an FRT in it tho and it ran too fast also. I had to put in a heavier spring and buffer and it finally ran fine now. And by doing so I can almost do single fire with it last I tried. So that's kinda cool to have that ability without the aftermarket expensive/rare selectors. My next project will be the MCXs I have. Dam ammo costs have put a cramp on my style tho as far as tinkering lol, especiallyfor 300 AAC. But it's a fun hobby. Thanks for the info bud

Screw hand polishing