Trying to find a parasitic draw on my fiancé's car a couple of years ago is what pushed me into becoming more interested in electrical diagnosing. I did eventually find the problem, but it took me two days and I went the long way around before I found the problem. If I knew then what I know now, I would have probably found the problem in a couple of hours instead of a couple of days. Good video.
Thanks for commenting and watching. Knowledge is power for sure, I am learning so much all the time getting better as I go. That is what keeps the job interesting!
Zeroing a DC Amp meter is done to cancel out the earth's magnet field and should be done right before you clamp it over the wire. Anytime you change the clamp's axis, it needs to be re-zeroed before clamping it over the wire or energizing the circuit.
I've dealt with a lot of Main/Positive Power Wires rubbed threw on a lot of Fords. Intermittent Draws to Shorts. Ford has had Issues with the Positive Wires having the Cabs cut into them against the Frame on the Passenger Side and shorting out on Heavy Van's/Ambulances for Years.(Fire Hazard to Boot) Mid 2000's maybe later. I've seen a lot of Exhaust Guards break off and cut into the Main Positive Wire/s and Crazy Short Things. You don't have to deal with a Dime in the Rear Door of a 76 Lincoln Town House Cigarette Lighter anymore, i don't think. That Self Inflicted Stuff. God Bless, C.
This Is the one of the lower amp clamps that I have www.aeswave.com/Current-Clamp-60A-AC-DC-with-BNC-p9417.html there are more expensive options, I would like to purchase this one in the future as I here that it is more accurate www.aeswave.com/30a-ac-dc-current-clamp-p9314.html
Going around the negative cable is the way I was thought how to do it in school could you explain why you go around the positive cable just wondering just found your channel and learning a lot you are a great teacher thanks
Trying to find a parasitic draw on my fiancé's car a couple of years ago is what pushed me into becoming more interested in electrical diagnosing. I did eventually find the problem, but it took me two days and I went the long way around before I found the problem. If I knew then what I know now, I would have probably found the problem in a couple of hours instead of a couple of days. Good video.
Thanks for commenting and watching. Knowledge is power for sure, I am learning so much all the time getting better as I go. That is what keeps the job interesting!
Zeroing a DC Amp meter is done to cancel out the earth's magnet field and should be done right before you clamp it over the wire. Anytime you change the clamp's axis, it needs to be re-zeroed before clamping it over the wire or energizing the circuit.
I've dealt with a lot of Main/Positive Power Wires rubbed threw on a lot of Fords. Intermittent Draws to Shorts. Ford has had Issues with the Positive Wires having the Cabs cut into them against the Frame on the Passenger Side and shorting out on Heavy Van's/Ambulances for Years.(Fire Hazard to Boot) Mid 2000's maybe later. I've seen a lot of Exhaust Guards break off and cut into the Main Positive Wire/s and Crazy Short Things. You don't have to deal with a Dime in the Rear Door of a 76 Lincoln Town House Cigarette Lighter anymore, i don't think. That Self Inflicted Stuff. God Bless, C.
Can you do a review on that hantek meter? Is it a scope?
I may be able to.. it's not bad , a bit clunky, similar to u scope as far as display . It is 2 channels.
what's the best (or preferred) amp clamp, to use it with oscilloscope, to find parasitic draw?
This Is the one of the lower amp clamps that I have www.aeswave.com/Current-Clamp-60A-AC-DC-with-BNC-p9417.html there are more expensive options, I would like to purchase this one in the future as I here that it is more accurate www.aeswave.com/30a-ac-dc-current-clamp-p9314.html
So what cable do you usually test at negative or positive
I prefer negative, due to if I ground something no big deal if using old school going in series. Other wise what ever Is easier to access
Need one
It comes in handy for sure!
have you ever arrived with a fully charged battery ready to test?
Lol
How much that amp clamp cost ya?
It’s listed for $122.60 on their website.
I think 130 or 140 is what I paid. It's pretty good to get you in that ball park
You don't go on the negative cable
Ok maybe you dont , explain why.
Going around the negative cable is the way I was thought how to do it in school could you explain why you go around the positive cable just wondering just found your channel and learning a lot you are a great teacher thanks