You hit the nail right on the head with this , great job, great work. in engines valvetrain weight means EVERYTHING! great job, thank you soo much for sharing.😃
UPDATE: I would never do this again. It's silly to me now. Real Johnson SBR2112 or a solid roller is a better way to go. I've been road course racing on a set of SBR2112 for 3 years. When they fail I'm converting to solid roller. The stock lifters collapse with even a mild performance cam.
FYI : I wouldn't do this again as it renders the block valueless in most peoples eyes. Also there is no need to with the availability of low cost roller blocks now and low cost, low weight link bar lifters. Also the OE lifters used for this process were not designed for the quick ramps / aggressive high lift profile of aftermarket performance cams. I'm now using the real Johnson Lifters in another project, they are quiet even with aggressive extreme energy rams. They are pricey though.
I did it there's a little more to it then what you're showing on your video here but your video did help me thank you I think I might make a video of all the parts and what year range they came off of
I did this mod some years ago on a high comp 350 i was playing around with, i used a take-out LT-1 cam and gear set, i used the shorter lifters, bought a couple good used sets on ebay. I did a lot of flat filing on the tops of the lifter bores, die grinding the block sanding the dog bones, spinning the cam to make sure nothing was sticking. Ultimately the mod was a failure as i bent intake valves at high RPM on two occasions on both heads. Whent back to a flat tappet and no more problems. In the end my conclusion was that the dog bones just weren't precisely aligned enough at controlling the lifters and they had to be sticking in order to cause valve to piston interference.
So you think a lifter poped out of the bore and hung the valve open? FYI... I wouldn't do this again as it render the block valueless in most peoples eyes. Also there is no need to with the availability of low cost roller blocks now and low cost, low weight link bar lifters. Also the OE lifters used for this process were not designed for the quick ramps / aggressive high lift profile of aftermarket performance cams. I'm now using the real Johnson Lifters in another project, they are quiet even with aggressive extreme energy rams. They are pricey though.
No i think a lifter hung up in a dog bone long enough for a piston to come up and bend a valve then it jus got worse from there. It was a great lesson in valve train geometry. Push rods were Ford as i recall...I reused the block in my blazer with a flat tappet. i left the spider in there as a heat and oil baffle just cut the legs off with tin snipes...So yeah now a days with aggressive super lift rollers its no longer talk about valve float but instead lifter pump down cause they just can't take the pressure at high RPM, go figure. My next 383 will be all roller and im thinking solid lifter.
Outstanding video. Well worth the time and effort to do this. The dog bone set up is, in my opinion, much better than the link bar set up. Just subscribed
I wonder if the ford 302 lifters are the same size .842 or something, they make a retro fit spider and dog bone kit that you drill into the top of the valley area almost to the cam tunnel?
I would not have an issue doing this with an early style sbc. The lifter bores are rather tall if you compare to the 1pc RMS engine I would machine the tops down some and use the LT1 lifters or the 305 lifters. That where used with the roller cams Definitely not use v-6 lifters. Looks like a budget friendly diy way to roller cam a early sbc. Still would have to use a cam button to limit end play on the cam. I would probably even use a rev kit with this setup and use the LS type beehive springs thanks for the video and the info.
So...any roller lifter from a chevy V-8 '86 on up is the same as well, they are fairly decent priced. you can find 'em used as well. If you're using used, just make sure you take them apart clean them well and inspect the rollers. Non-roller cams are abit hard on roller lifters because the lobes are angled which rotates a flat tappet lifter. Used hydraulic-roller cams are fairly economical they seldom wear out. you'd also need the cam retainer plate. there are also hi-rev aftermarket lifters.
I know this video is getting pretty old now, but did you ever have any trouble with the lifter spider being drilled and tapped with those studs? I actually have a roller block with a damaged spider mounting hole, and I'm curious if I can follow your lead here and drill/tap a little further down into that ridge to run a stud for that mounting point. You mentioned in a previous comment you'd never do this again, but I'm unclear if the problems you had were related to the drill/tap for the hold-down spider.
Dont drill down into the oil galley. Any swarf will plug oil holes. How damaged is your block ? Can you use a heli coil or timesert? If not braze on a nut or mig a stud to what ever is left. Google cold weld cast iron.
Nice job , can I give you a tip . Use set screws next time there grade 8 and you wont have an chance of ( not that you did) knicking up the threads, inserting the rods. Great job though.
Is the tray sitting right on top of the nut? Mine is about a 1/2" or more higher than the nut. How tight or the ends supposed to sit on the lifter hold down? IS the lifter tray supposed to be applying alot of pressure? I'm not sure if I have it to tight.
The 86+ V8 roller lifter will not work, You need the shorter V6 lifters. The shorter lifters are needed because the lifter bore is shorter on a gen 1 block and if you tried to used 86+ v8 lifters they would push the dog bones off the top of the lifter bore.
what do you mean? I'm stuck with howards lifters on extreme backorder, I'm looking to do this mod instead, I can just get gm ls lifters and do the rest of this mod as is?
so you had to pull from two v6 that's funny. I have a 95 350 cast 580 block non bored and tapped boss, does roller give it power good power past 4500 rpm? What fueling system did you use, tbi or tpi, carb for this build?
I used a Lingenfelter Super RAM intake and the MAF based 1227165 TPI setup. It ran good and made power way past 4500 RPM even though I ran a mild 219/227 roller cam. I purchased the roller lifters new and they are sold in sets of 2 so no big deal there. I have since sold the car and removed the motor. It's just sitting looking for a new home.
does this same concept work in 4.3 v6 vortec engines. I have a non roller block converting in to a roller n I was told that I would have to get the retrofit rollers for it to work. please help me?
4.3l v6 is identical to V8 minus 2 cylinders all identical except spider to hold down is different (2 less cylinder) 95% of everything 350 related bolts to 4.3l its made that way on purpose
Economics? It's far more economical to use the OE style roller lifters than using the retrofit with the link bars. Howards has the cheapest set of quality for the retro lifters at $359. For $280, you can buy the entire GM performance OE style roller kit which includes the lifters, dog bones and hold down. Far more economical to go OE.
Actually unlike flat tappet lifters a set of roller lifters really doesn't have any wear when in a vehicle taken care of so purchasing a set of used roller lifters is by far economical and safe .. get from a machine shop as they will most likely sell to customers new lifters on rebuild and have a ton of them in spare parts bins (if the shady fuckers dont charge for new and then re use old ones) that is replacing roller lifters is like buying a new block every rebuild .. stupid costly and completely un needed
+wildthing302 Not all stock 400 blocks are the same. Early pre 73 blocks have way thicker cylinders than the later version's. And as far as overheating, I drove a 575 HP 406 to work everyday for 2 yrs, it never got over 185 degrees.
+Rabbi Schlomo Yep, NA. Used a pair of ported Dart conquest heads, Holley Strip Dominator intake & 850 Holley DP carb on a 2 inch spacer, 276/282@. 050, 640/648lift, 106 lobe separation. 11.25-1 compression. Ran on 93 octane. With more compression it would have made over 600hp.
+Rabbi Schlomo It was in a 69 Chevy C-10 street/strip truck. Ran high 10s on 12inch slicks. Mid 11s on hard ass radials. Wasent the most practical vehicle, but I can put up with alot more than most normies. No AC and manual everything is the way I like em.
Wrong side of the rocker arm to be worried about weight. Light weight components on the valve side matters, valves ,retainers , locks ect. Lifters ,nah.
I've seen discussions about this and while some say it's not as important on that side because of the leverage advantage, the valve spring still has to apply energy to control that side so lightweight components do matter. Reversing the rocker ratio leverage helps but doesn't negate the weight.
Yeah, I believe that due to the oil starvation to the lifters themselves, they were bleeding down and starting bounce on the cam causing the spalling and flatspotting. I'm not sure that the lifters I sourced from ebay were all in the best condition to start with. Live and learn.
i was going to go with the roller setup out of a 96 up vortec but my machine shop told me that they would not do what you did because their is not enough materiel their need the later model block
I have a 2003 Chaparral 210SS with a Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI. The block was not winterized properly and subsequently cracked along with the vortec heads. A total of 50 hours was on the engine. So I purchased a a 1994 TBI 350. The TBI has the lifter bosses machined flat to accept the "dog-bone" retainers, but the bosses for the spider aren't cast into the block. There are markings that line up perfectly with the tin spider, but they haven't been drilled or tapped. Will I be able to drill and tapp the holes and use the OEM roller lifters? Or will i run into the OEM roller lifters pushing the dog bone out?
No way for me to know...I'd simply suggest you try it and check the action when turning over the motor with cam in place by hand. If you are going to drill the block you will need to clean it so it should come apart.
@@michaelangelo8001 I would never do this again. It's silly to me now. Real Johnson SBR2112 or a solid roller is a better way to go. The stock lifters collapse with even a mild performance cam.
@@icsamerica Well, that's good to know. I appreciate the information. { (edit): Was thinking about what you said a little more... I assume you are talking about the little six cylinder lifters collapsing, right? Don't you think that the factory V8 lifters which should be designed for a considerably heavier valve-train, would perform much better in that respect? } I suppose if it came down to it though, considering that they are basically free... that someone could always take the guts out of the hydraulics, and make solids out of them like we used to do flat tappets back in the old days. Was looking on eBay this evening, and found some good looking Chinese solids for $180. That's not too bad, and would save a good deal of work... but I don't know what kind of life expectancy they might have.
Experimenting is fun but when you're racing it cost money and dings your pride. This doesnt work, dont do it. Use a good quality Johnson SBR lifter like the SBR2112. I also learned...90% of the stuff you read on forums and the internet 100% WRONG. Buy good heads... AFR, Brodix, call the tech line, they know what works. Buy direct and talk to a person for real. What ever you pay extra will be worth it. Advice you find on the internet is worth what you paid for it... ZERO!
@@icsamerica its not experimenting, i run lt1s ,i was only saying run an lt1 cam valve springs and lifters along with the dog bones and spider because its an up grade the cam is 476/467 228/218 112 lsa with roller lifter and same dog bones damn good upgrade for a sbc
And i know it cost money i have over 5 grand into my 97 z/28 i was only giving you advise lt1 valve train will work in a gen1 sbc to those that are on a budget
40 k miles ,, then it had a failure ?? prolly oil ,, the lobes are splash lubricated , ,, springs might have got weak and started to float ,,, anyway ,, 40k miles for a performance cam is a life time IMO
they would probably work fine with the whole back side of the dog bone gone , they just need minimal guide , just to keep them straight , the flank on the outside edge would most likely do that
You hit the nail right on the head with this , great job, great work. in engines valvetrain weight means EVERYTHING! great job, thank you soo much for sharing.😃
UPDATE: I would never do this again. It's silly to me now. Real Johnson SBR2112 or a solid roller is a better way to go. I've been road course racing on a set of SBR2112 for 3 years. When they fail I'm converting to solid roller. The stock lifters collapse with even a mild performance cam.
So the retro fit still works, you just need different lifters? Do you have another update?
FYI : I wouldn't do this again as it renders the block valueless in most peoples eyes. Also there is no need to with the availability of low cost roller blocks now and low cost, low weight link bar lifters. Also the OE lifters used for this process were not designed for the quick ramps / aggressive high lift profile of aftermarket performance cams. I'm now using the real Johnson Lifters in another project, they are quiet even with aggressive extreme energy rams. They are pricey though.
They made them way before your video in 2012.
I did it there's a little more to it then what you're showing on your video here but your video did help me thank you I think I might make a video of all the parts and what year range they came off of
I did this mod some years ago on a high comp 350 i was playing around with, i used a take-out LT-1 cam and gear set, i used the shorter lifters, bought a couple good used sets on ebay. I did a lot of flat filing on the tops of the lifter bores, die grinding the block sanding the dog bones, spinning the cam to make sure nothing was sticking. Ultimately the mod was a failure as i bent intake valves at high RPM on two occasions on both heads. Whent back to a flat tappet and no more problems.
In the end my conclusion was that the dog bones just weren't precisely aligned enough at controlling the lifters and they had to be sticking in order to cause valve to piston interference.
So you think a lifter poped out of the bore and hung the valve open?
FYI... I wouldn't do this again as it render the block valueless in most peoples eyes. Also there is no need to with the availability of low cost roller blocks now and low cost, low weight link bar lifters. Also the OE lifters used for this process were not designed for the quick ramps / aggressive high lift profile of aftermarket performance cams. I'm now using the real Johnson Lifters in another project, they are quiet even with aggressive extreme energy rams. They are pricey though.
No i think a lifter hung up in a dog bone long enough for a piston to come up and bend a valve then it jus got worse from there. It was a great lesson in valve train geometry. Push rods were Ford as i recall...I reused the block in my blazer with a flat tappet. i left the spider in there as a heat and oil baffle just cut the legs off with tin snipes...So yeah now a days with aggressive super lift rollers its no longer talk about valve float but instead lifter pump down cause they just can't take the pressure at high RPM, go figure. My next 383 will be all roller and im thinking solid lifter.
Outstanding video. Well worth the time and effort to do this. The dog bone set up is, in my opinion, much better than the link bar set up. Just subscribed
I wonder if the ford 302 lifters are the same size .842 or something, they make a retro fit spider and dog bone kit that you drill into the top of the valley area almost to the cam tunnel?
How well did this hold up? I might try this in the near future.
Working great, my trans shift at 7000RPM too.
Ingenious . Very cool . 😎
I would not have an issue doing this with an early style sbc. The lifter bores are rather tall if you compare to the 1pc RMS engine I would machine the tops down some and use the LT1 lifters or the 305 lifters. That where used with the roller cams Definitely not use v-6 lifters. Looks like a budget friendly diy way to roller cam a early sbc. Still would have to use a cam button to limit end play on the cam. I would probably even use a rev kit with this setup and use the LS type beehive springs thanks for the video and the info.
the v6 hydraulic lifters come out of a 3.1 SFI I got mine out of a 97 from the junkyard
Wouldn’t been easier just to put link bar hydraulic lifters in there?
what if you found a way to space up the dogbones? then you could use the stock v8 lifters?
So...any roller lifter from a chevy V-8 '86 on up is the same as well, they are fairly decent priced. you can find 'em used as well. If you're using used, just make sure you take them apart clean them well and inspect the rollers. Non-roller cams are abit hard on roller lifters because the lobes are angled which rotates a flat tappet lifter. Used hydraulic-roller cams are fairly economical they seldom wear out. you'd also need the cam retainer plate. there are also hi-rev aftermarket lifters.
the V6 lifters are on ebay ,,, NAPA sells them individually ,,, a 2.2 lifter works too i've been told
I know this video is getting pretty old now, but did you ever have any trouble with the lifter spider being drilled and tapped with those studs? I actually have a roller block with a damaged spider mounting hole, and I'm curious if I can follow your lead here and drill/tap a little further down into that ridge to run a stud for that mounting point. You mentioned in a previous comment you'd never do this again, but I'm unclear if the problems you had were related to the drill/tap for the hold-down spider.
Dont drill down into the oil galley. Any swarf will plug oil holes. How damaged is your block ? Can you use a heli coil or timesert? If not braze on a nut or mig a stud to what ever is left. Google cold weld cast iron.
Nice job , can I give you a tip .
Use set screws next time there grade 8 and you wont have an chance of ( not that you did) knicking up the threads, inserting the rods. Great job though.
+Mark Rich thanks for the feed back.
I would machine or grind the block more. Pleant of meat behind the lifter bores. I've dont this mod and i sonic check everything.
Is the tray sitting right on top of the nut? Mine is about a 1/2" or more higher than the nut. How tight or the ends supposed to sit on the lifter hold down? IS the lifter tray supposed to be applying alot of pressure? I'm not sure if I have it to tight.
does it matter which way the tiny oil bleed hole in the roller lifter faces?
Do you use an OE roller cam or small base circle retro cam?
The 86+ V8 roller lifter will not work, You need the shorter V6 lifters. The shorter lifters are needed because the lifter bore is shorter on a gen 1 block and if you tried to used 86+ v8 lifters they would push the dog bones off the top of the lifter bore.
Nice set up. What is the max RPM with these lifters? Thanks
How did you make the cam retainer plate work ?
Wouldn’t the Buick turbo motor lifters work
Do they make modified Dogbones. aftermarket parts to adapt the gen 1 sbc to roller motor setups.
Ls lifters are the same as gen 1 sbc vortec lifters which can be had for $130 so it in fact saves a lot of money doing this
what do you mean? I'm stuck with howards lifters on extreme backorder, I'm looking to do this mod instead, I can just get gm ls lifters and do the rest of this mod as is?
@@Sammyjeans1 all sbc 4.3 454 5.3 (non dod) 6.0 ect run the same lifter.
@@Sammyjeans1ls lifters are the same
@@frankburn6312 thanks, I have a gen 1 block so i just waited for the howards tie bar lifters, they are very good
thanks nice job how about a video on the motor now
Ls lifter same same
oh and what length pushrods did you use
Hi, did you found out the pushrod length?
What kind of v6 did lifters come out of
This guy must have lived under power lines as a kid
How far down did you drill?
does it matter which v6 roller lifters you use?
so you had to pull from two v6 that's funny. I have a 95 350 cast 580 block non bored and tapped boss, does roller give it power good power past 4500 rpm? What fueling system did you use, tbi or tpi, carb for this build?
I used a Lingenfelter Super RAM intake and the MAF based 1227165 TPI setup. It ran good and made power way past 4500 RPM even though I ran a mild 219/227 roller cam. I purchased the roller lifters new and they are sold in sets of 2 so no big deal there. I have since sold the car and removed the motor. It's just sitting looking for a new home.
do you need a spider for a roller cam cause im building a 383 and i want an hydraulic roller i have an 70s block
If you're going to use the dog bones you will need the spider also.
does this same concept work in 4.3 v6 vortec engines. I have a non roller block converting in to a roller n I was told that I would have to get the retrofit rollers for it to work. please help me?
4.3l v6 is identical to V8 minus 2 cylinders all identical except spider to hold down is different (2 less cylinder)
95% of everything 350 related bolts to 4.3l its made that way on purpose
how did this work for you?
Economics? It's far more economical to use the OE style roller lifters than using the retrofit with the link bars. Howards has the cheapest set of quality for the retro lifters at $359. For $280, you can buy the entire GM performance OE style roller kit which includes the lifters, dog bones and hold down. Far more economical to go OE.
Actually unlike flat tappet lifters a set of roller lifters really doesn't have any wear when in a vehicle taken care of so purchasing a set of used roller lifters is by far economical and safe .. get from a machine shop as they will most likely sell to customers new lifters on rebuild and have a ton of them in spare parts bins (if the shady fuckers dont charge for new and then re use old ones) that is
replacing roller lifters is like buying a new block every rebuild .. stupid costly and completely un needed
Yeah you pretty much turned this block into a boat anchor in most peoples eyes.
Lol, see my comment about 1 years ago. These blocks are worthless at this point anyway with all the LS stuff growing in popularity.
Boat anchor? I don't agree. It's better than before. Now it's a roller block.
@@icsamerica , the Gen 1 SBC still out sells all other engines; even the LS as popular as it is.
@@OldAndGettingOlder gen 1 full "street credit!" LS no 'street credit!"...
just sayin...
larry
Neat
WHAT CAM ARE YOU USING FOR A RETROFIT LIFTER OR OEM LIFTER??
In this application I was using a Lunati Retrofit roller 219/227. Old block needs a retro fit roller.
What method did you use to limit the thrust on the cam?
Cam button.
makes sense ive only built 350s and smaller never had a 400 want one though lol
Jacob Jarvis why....so you can have paper thin cylinder walls and overheating issues. ..
+wildthing302 Not all stock 400 blocks are the same. Early pre 73 blocks have way thicker cylinders than the later version's. And as far as overheating, I drove a 575 HP 406 to work everyday for 2 yrs, it never got over 185 degrees.
+Rabbi Schlomo Yep, NA. Used a pair of ported Dart conquest heads, Holley Strip Dominator intake & 850 Holley DP carb on a 2 inch spacer, 276/282@. 050, 640/648lift, 106 lobe separation. 11.25-1 compression. Ran on 93 octane. With more compression it would have made over 600hp.
+Rabbi Schlomo It was in a 69 Chevy C-10 street/strip truck. Ran high 10s on 12inch slicks. Mid 11s on hard ass radials. Wasent the most practical vehicle, but I can put up with alot more than most normies. No AC and manual everything is the way I like em.
Wrong side of the rocker arm to be worried about weight. Light weight components on the valve side matters, valves ,retainers , locks ect. Lifters ,nah.
I've seen discussions about this and while some say it's not as important on that side because of the leverage advantage, the valve spring still has to apply energy to control that side so lightweight components do matter. Reversing the rocker ratio leverage helps but doesn't negate the weight.
the lifters are on ebay for 9 bux a piece ,, you need 16
I don't see 'em that low very often. Typical prices range from 12$ to 22$ each.
I,ve done this,, more in the block than this, not to much off the dog bone, also nickel welded cap screws for spider-no drilling or tapping
Yeah, I believe that due to the oil starvation to the lifters themselves, they were bleeding down and starting bounce on the cam causing the spalling and flatspotting. I'm not sure that the lifters I sourced from ebay were all in the best condition to start with. Live and learn.
How deal do u drill the holes
Do NOT do this. Just buy a good set od retro lifters, Johnson SBR2112
could you not just weld the dog bones onto the block? or would they warp?
Cast iron is hard to weld weld would melt the cast
Jesus fuggin Christ!!! The dog bones go up and down!!!🤦
i was going to go with the roller setup out of a 96 up vortec but my machine shop told me that they would not do what you did because their is not enough materiel their need the later model block
I'm looking to do the same modification on my engine, how is it holding up?
I have a 2003 Chaparral 210SS with a Mercruiser 350 Mag MPI. The block was not winterized properly and subsequently cracked along with the vortec heads. A total of 50 hours was on the engine. So I purchased a a 1994 TBI 350. The TBI has the lifter bosses machined flat to accept the "dog-bone" retainers, but the bosses for the spider aren't cast into the block. There are markings that line up perfectly with the tin spider, but they haven't been drilled or tapped. Will I be able to drill and tapp the holes and use the OEM roller lifters? Or will i run into the OEM roller lifters pushing the dog bone out?
It's holing up fine. I recently changed to a milder cam for more vacuum and idle quality and everything looked good.
No way for me to know...I'd simply suggest you try it and check the action when turning over the motor with cam in place by hand. If you are going to drill the block you will need to clean it so it should come apart.
@@icsamerica what lenght pushrod u used?
doesnt the roller cam need a thrust plate installed at front of the block ? why wasnt this shown ? and was it something you completely overlooked ?
Not over looked... but one needs to know that you need to use a "cam button"
just use the lifters from a one piece rear main 350 2 bolt most are roller cams from factory
Jacob Jarvis the blocks are diffrent. the lifer bores are .300 of an inch taller and so the lifters are taller.
@@icsamerica Ever thought of placing spacers under the dogbone guides? That would also solve your clearance issue.
@@michaelangelo8001 I would never do this again. It's silly to me now. Real Johnson SBR2112 or a solid roller is a better way to go. The stock lifters collapse with even a mild performance cam.
@@icsamerica Well, that's good to know. I appreciate the information.
{ (edit): Was thinking about what you said a little more... I assume you are talking about the little six cylinder lifters collapsing, right? Don't you think that the factory V8 lifters which should be designed for a considerably heavier valve-train, would perform much better in that respect? }
I suppose if it came down to it though, considering that they are basically free... that someone could always take the guts out of the hydraulics, and make solids out of them like we used to do flat tappets back in the old days.
Was looking on eBay this evening, and found some good looking Chinese solids for $180. That's not too bad, and would save a good deal of work... but I don't know what kind of life expectancy they might have.
Why not just use gen 2 lt1 hydro roller lifters same thing
Experimenting is fun but when you're racing it cost money and dings your pride. This doesnt work, dont do it. Use a good quality
Johnson SBR lifter like the SBR2112.
I also learned...90% of the stuff you read on forums and the internet 100% WRONG. Buy good heads... AFR, Brodix, call the tech line, they know what works. Buy direct and talk to a person for real. What ever you pay extra will be worth it. Advice you find on the internet is worth what you paid for it... ZERO!
@@icsamerica its not experimenting, i run lt1s ,i was only saying run an lt1 cam valve springs and lifters along with the dog bones and spider because its an up grade the cam is 476/467 228/218 112 lsa with roller lifter and same dog bones damn good upgrade for a sbc
And i know it cost money i have over 5 grand into my 97 z/28 i was only giving you advise lt1 valve train will work in a gen1 sbc to those that are on a budget
40 k miles ,, then it had a failure ?? prolly oil ,, the lobes are splash lubricated , ,, springs might have got weak and started to float ,,, anyway ,, 40k miles for a performance cam is a life time IMO
I can't believe I actually paid for info on how to do this.:(
Now learn how fun the camera
How dumb the dog bones add weight as well has the spider and longer push rods waste of time and effort
Lol. Try to think about what you write before you write it.
wwwww you ground off too much on the doggones.
Doggones? wwwww? You can hardly type...doesn't say much about you or your technical opinions.
+john depietro: Does this also works for a non roller v6
they would probably work fine with the whole back side of the dog bone gone , they just need minimal guide , just to keep them straight , the flank on the outside edge would most likely do that
Probable would.
Indeed ~ parallel ~ is ~ parallel
thanks nice job how about a video on the motor now