Engine Building Part 10 - Hydraulic Lifters, Choosing, Cleaning, Assembling, Installing Roller Lifte
Vložit
- čas přidán 1. 06. 2018
- All about hydraulic roller and solid tappet lifters. Disassembly, cleaning, operation and assembly. How hydraulic lifters work,
automotive engines diagnosis repair rebuilding
automotive engines diagnosis repair rebuilding pdf
best book for rebuilding engines
books on how to build engines
books on rebuilding car engines
books on rebuilding engines
chevy performance engines
crate engines vs rebuilding engine
ford performance engines
gm performance engines
guide to rebuilding engines
high performance engines
how to build 4.6 ford engines
how to build a car engine at home
how to build a car engine for dummies
how to build a car engine from scratch book
how to build a car engine step by step
how to build a car engines
how to build a custom car engine
how to build a fast car engine
how to build and modify gm chevrolet engines
how to build and modify gm ls-series engines
how to build big block chevy engines
how to build big block ford engines
how to build big-inch gm ls-series engines
how to build buick engines
how to build car engine from scratch
how to build car engines
how to build chevy engines
how to build classic hot rod v8 engines
how to build clone racing engines
how to build drag race engines
how to build ford engines
how to build ford fe engines
how to build high performance chrysler engines
how to build high performance engines
how to build high performance pontiac engines
how to build high torque engines
how to build honda engines
how to build killer big-block chevy engines
how to build max-performance ford 5.0 coyote engines
how to build max-performance ford fe engines download
how to build small-block ford racing engines
how to build your first car engine
how to build your own car engine from scratch
how to remove carbon buildup in engines
performance crate engines
rebuilding alfa romeo engines
rebuilding audi engines
rebuilding auto engines
rebuilding big block chevy engines
rebuilding bmw engines
rebuilding boat engines
rebuilding car engines
rebuilding chevy big block engines
rebuilding chevy engines
rebuilding classic car engines
rebuilding diesel engines
rebuilding diesel engines cost
rebuilding engines for a living
rebuilding engines for dummies
rebuilding ford big block engines
rebuilding ford engines
rebuilding ford fe engines
rebuilding g35 engines
rebuilding gm ls engines
rebuilding small block ford engines
tools for rebuilding engines - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Great video !!!
Another informative video Pete. Thx again for sharing your knowledge👍👍👍👍
Thanks Mick
Subscribed,Pete you have the face of honesty and knowledge,been working on cars all my life but i enjoy watching others work,excellent video.
That is so nice of you, thank you
I learn a lil something from almost all your videos. But I learned so much from this one! Thank you for doing what you do!!!
Thank you very much Flint
Flint there is one detail you missed and he didn't talk about.
Thanks Pete, I had questions on what was best and why. Another great video.
Thanks my friend
Great channel, very informative. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
I finally know how lifters work. Thanks Pete. Awesome video
Thanks my friend
fantastic video. Thank you!
Thank you my friend
Hi Pete, I really did like the hydraulic lifter video, all with great detailed information. Tony
Thanks Tony
I never knew how important the lifters were, great information Pete.
Glad to help
Best video on CZcams! Great explanation, TYVM!
Wow, thanks!
Thank you Man! For the details on this work 💪🤝🥰
My pleasure!
Pete you´re bad ass!!Thanks!!
Thanks Charlie
Very Great Video.Well Done
Thank you my friend
Very helpful Pete!
Thanks Hunter
another great vid. tks Pete
Thanks my friend
My friend went full roller with all Howard's stuff and the end result was way beyond what I ever would have thought. I run flat tappet but will be going roller next go around.
Interesting, thanks for sharing
this is excellent, great channel.... subbed
Thanks Simon and welcome
Thanks Pete
Hi Pete Just wanted to tell you I have a very popular automotive you tube channel that is machine shop based I have many engine builds from start to finish I pride myself on putting out videos that have accurate info and procedures,
there are so many engine building videos that are terrible! bad lighting /bad information tons of profanity and so on however I have nothing but respect for you, your videos are very good some of the best I have seen keep up the good work well made videos and your information is spot on I always find myself watching videos and saying what is this guy talking about so much bad info with your videos I can't really find anything you have said that is wrong GREAT JOB!
and Pete did not resort to begging for money from viewers.
Thank you my friend, I have to admit I've watched some of your videos to do a sanity check on a few things before I said them. I doubt myself often and you are a great resource to confirm what I think. Your video are also excellent, they have helped me a time or two. If I watch a video laced with foul language and low class behavior, I skip it. It's disappointing to see people with no respect for themselves, they are the ones that give car guys a bad name. Thanks again!
Pretty funny----Pete and My Vintage Iron are the two guys I'm relying on for my first SBC rebuild (vortec head swap recommended by MVI)!
Your videos are outstanding! I've been on your channel numerous times.
I appreciate your videos, but let's not forget. The purpose of the hydraulic lifter, (roller, or flat tappet), is to ease maintenance of the valvetrain, and to quiet it down, and so you don't have to set the lash every few thousand miles. The oil pump is going to pump oil to the rest of the valvetrain through solid lifters as well. Some people are not aware that "solid" only means there are no moving parts. (plunger, spring, retainer, etc...). They do have an oil port machined into them to channel oil through the pushrods, to the rockers. Not trying to be a jerk. I just thought that info should have been included.
Excellent point, thank you for the information.
RP Manone is correct. i like the video but you should fix it. alot of people don't read the coments and theres enough false info out there without adding to it. think of the hydraulic lifter as the shock obsorber of an engines valvetrain the ports in the lifter like ports in a shock relieve pressure in a metered amount to control and protect the valvetrain like a shock controls and protects the movements of a suspension. so advantage and disadvantage of a hydraulic lifter is when there is too much pressure on the lifter for example like a short over rev situation the lifter relieves the pressure to help keep from bending pushrods or rocker arms or damaging the cam lobes and with that protection the parts last longer also when you use solid lifters you have to leave a few thousandths lash to account for heat expansion of parts and to keep parts from binding that lash causes some valvetrain noise and requires regular adjustment as the parts wear. disadvantage of hydraulic is the oil pressure inside the lifter is what allows the valve to open fully allowing more air and fuel so when your oil gets low the first thing you usually hear is the lifter tap the lifters are collapsing and not opening the valves fully, reducing power. but even with full pressure under racing abuse at super high rpm's the lifters can partially collapse reducing engine power so some race engines will use the solid lifters to keep the valves open under extreme abuse and high rpm's. so to sum it up if you have a extreme performance high rpm race car that gets checked and adjusted after every race solid lifters are for you but everybody else your probly better off sticking with the hydraulic lifters that are capable of making plenty of power. but remember like having the right valve springs for a cams lift you also need the right calibrated lifters for your cam as well.
@@trishapinczes7818 Rubbish. The whole 'solid rollers are for race engines' is 90s nonsense. So long as you have the right springs in it, and you break it in and then do the lash again, you're good to go. I've done 10,000 miles on a 950hp solid roller 350 chev - entirely street driven - and the lash is still perfect. The only thing you want to do is check it to make sure it hasn't changed, but no adjustments needed.
If you have a 3,500hp doorslammer engine - of course you're going to be checking the lash every half an hour or so, which is where this stupid rumour comes from.
Almost ANY engine these days - aside from the very very mild - will benefit from a solid roller cam. Or, you can be like everyone else who believes the rumour, fit a hyd roller, and then with any half decent power of 600hp+, wipe lobes and cause valvetrain damage every other month. If you had any idea what NASCAR had to do to get the cam system to stay together without even a roller cam, you would appreciate that even after all their development, that the cam and entire valvetrain was basically junk after a few hundred miles.
I run a Comp Cams street solid roller Extreme Energy Xr292R in my 438 Windsor 68 Mustang. I use all the good parts including Isky Bushed Lifters. Cam is 621 627 lift 254, 258@50 duration. Lash was checked at 500 miles and spot on. Lash was checked again 2 years later after 1800 miles and 2 exhaust valve lifters off .002-.003. Rest were off like .001. Car sees consistent 7200 rpm blasts and full throttle runs on street. Car is driven hard. I have no idea why lash backed off .002-.003 on 2 lifters but it did. Isky bushed are supposed to be the best. Can't see how you went 3k miles and lash never moved. But maybe you have smaller cam than me, or you don't run car to 7200rpm. Solid roller lash should be checked at least every 2 years. I am guessing maybe those 2 isky bushed lifters may be wearing or something else wearing. But to go 3k miles in a 950hp solid roller car and no lash change is hard to fathom. Unless you drive real mellow all the time. But who drives a solid roller car mellow?. Also. Comp cams needle bearing lifters are crap and ruined a motor i had before. That's why i went isky bushed. Maybe motor was still breaking in and that's why some lifters moved. But i have heard isky bushed are the best.
I run a Comp Cams street solid roller Extreme Energy Xr292R in my 438 Windsor 68 Mustang. I use all the good parts including Isky Bushed Lifters. Cam is 621 627 lift 254, 258@50 duration. Lash was checked at 500 miles and spot on. Lash was checked again 2 years later after 1800 miles and 2 exhaust valve lifters off .002-.003. Rest were off like .001. Car sees consistent 7200 rpm blasts and full throttle runs on street. Car is driven hard. I have no idea why lash backed off .002-.003 on 2 lifters but it did. Isky bushed are supposed to be the best. Can't see how you went 3k miles and lash never moved. But maybe you have smaller cam than me, or you don't run car to 7200rpm. Solid roller lash should be checked at least every 2 years. I am guessing maybe those 2 isky bushed lifters may be wearing or something else wearing. But to go 3k miles in a 950hp solid roller car and no lash change is hard to fathom. Unless you drive real mellow all the time. But who drives a solid roller car mellow?. Also. Comp cams needle bearing lifters are crap and ruined a motor i had before. That's why i went isky bushed. Maybe motor was still breaking in and that's why some lifters moved. But i have heard isky bushed are the best
I just ordered the Howard Cam link bar lifters....I just love throwing money into the Windsor! lol.....Big bucks Pete. It's a days wage..what the hell!! ..thanks again for the info....your vids rock!
Thanks David, good luck
Great video. Thanks
Thanks my friend
I like your garage awesome video.
Thank you very much my friend
Awesome info Thanks Pete
Thanks my friend
Thanks a lot, I couldn't find what a roller lifter was and what were the differences, now I know!
Glad I could help!
very very good info and teaching, keep'em coming please. A BIG thanks bud!
Thanks Mike....will do!
Great video
Thanks!
Hey I enjoy your reply,s Heres a good one When I was a teenager I had push rod Fiats, and twin cam engines,, this will piss every one off but I like to set my valve lash when the motor is hot, yeah i know its not fun. , I set each cylinder at TDC to set the valve lash, im talking solids plus I rock the crank back and forth to check for timing chain slack wear, it may take longer, but it works for me
Interesting, whatever works
Good educational video that's what I'm seeing so far on CZcams I think a couple of my lifters have broken Springs in them
It would be good to know why the broke
@@PetesGarage I got the motor for cheap 5 3 lm7 120km installing it in my OBS 96 1500 and I'm guessing I got it for cheap cuz the last guy ran it low on oil so I'm replacing a couple of pushrods lifters and Rockers and hoping for the best
Good video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks Pete! I really appreciate your explanation on how hydraulic lifters function. No kidding, this has been something I’ve wondered about for decades!
Please help me clarify two details:
1. When the cam first pushes the lifter, is it hydro-locked, or does the push rod cap sink into the lifter, pumping oil up the push rod?
2. Is the push rod cap physically bottomed-out inside the lifter to cause the push rod to rise, or is the lifter hydraulically locked which results in moving the push rod?
Thanks again! This is awesome.
It is locked at the bottom and pressurizes on the way back down. I'll try to illustrate that somehow. The pushrod just sits in the the lifter and once the lifter gets pumped up it is solid, taking up the valve lash.
The spring is for preload it does not act as a pump, oil pressure "pumps" up the lifter. solid lifters oil through the lifter and pushrod same as hydraulic lifters. hydraulic lifters require less maintenance to keep valve lash/preload in check, solid lifters have to be checked and relashed
That is true
Not all solid lifters have oil running through them.
Thanks bro.
You got it Sam
Cheers Dave
Thanks Dave
I like those aluminum heads. I was reading an article that said that the new modern heads are better than the coveted double hump fuelie heads.
Quite possible
They flow better but will they still be around and in use 50 years later.... I don't think so!
Thanks Pete. Great Video. I never knew a hydraulic lifter has so many parts.
There are, but they are simple devices.
Thanx again, Pete. I asked about new lifters in comments on another video, and this video clearly answers my question. Cleaning in mineral spirits should release new lifters so I can verify free piston/plunger movement. But it is funny, I find zero specs on acceptable wear limits on piston side clearance and spring pressure in the hydraulic roller lifters. Not even a roller wear limit for it’s 2 dimensions of movement or roller circumference. Why doesn’t anyone talk about specific wear limits or spring pressure on hydraulic roller lifters?
I would think because lifters are cheap enough to replace when you're rebuilding the engine. I've only reused solid lifters if the cam side is still in good shape. Great questions....
Hi Pete, great video as always. Thanks for the lesson on hydraulic lifters. Never realized how complex they are.
Did you announce the winner of the bottle opener? Sitting here with a cold one waiting for the news and very thirsty.
I will announce today
THX
Glad I found your video, I’ve built no telling how many flat tappet sbc engines, were fixing to convert a 78 010 high nickel block 4 bolt to roller cam for a supercharger, thx for sharing
Very cool!
High nickel 🤣🤣🤣. That’s a old wives tale. A cast iron block has 0 nickel content at all. The only good 010 casting blocks are the 73 and older heavy casting blocks that have the 2482 nodular main caps
Bubba ever had a cam go flat ?
@@brandonbell3089 Lots of old wives tale around. Bet it was a Corvette block too.
Yes cam I have, I’ll never build a flat tappet cam engine again, the roller is much better 😀
Thank you for the Video. I have a Flat Tappet Ford and I am debating between buying a Retrofit roller kit vs. buying a used Short block!
Retro fit kit and build it yourslef
I rebuilt the OE motor with bearings and hone job, andnew Molly rings. But I have 2 cylinders that didnt seat good. After only 15k miles I have blow bye. But I want a roller motor. Found short block roller mustang 302 yesterday for 100 bucks.
And now, I love solid lifters even more...
An why is that?
@@PetesGarage Two reasons. More parts is more opportunity for problems and hydraulics can be finnicky if spring pressure fades [lifter or valve] putting preload outside a certain window - nothing is maintenance free. Solids allow a bit of tunability to optimize vacuum or top end performance. Also... I'd rather check valve lash than pull the manifold to maintain valvetrain.
Hey Pete...love your channel and your tutorials. I'm new to Chryslers. My last Chrysler motor build was a huge success. And in no small part thanks to u, but I wanted a little more punch so I have decided to increase my cam lift a little bit (going from .488 to .545 lift) and in the process, I'm also upgrading to a roller cam and heads because the break-in on a flat tappet cam is always so stressful for me. Now I'm reading a lot of stuff about a roller cam requiring the same break-in procedure at 1800 -2000 rpm for 20-30 minutes or the cam will go flat just like a normal flat tappet cam. l think I saw u using a break -in oil, on another build w/ roller cam ( BB chevy maybe?) but does that mean I should be using a break-in oil with my Chrysler motor (like this one) and equally important, does it need to be broke in just like a flat tappet cam? 440 source says no need to worry of cam failure if using a roller cam. But I trust you and would like clarification on this subject. Thanks man.
A roller really does not need a break in, but I use the break in oil on every first run
Thanks Pete...Appreciate it very much. You're the best!
You may have already covered this but do I have to change the length of my pushrods with this type of lifter? Also do I have to change the rockers as well? Thank you very much for your video really good watch
You may have to change the pushrod, but not the rockers
well said
Thanks David
nice vid , don't forget oil in the lifter under pressure inside the lifter takes up the valve train lash under hydraulic lock an bleed down.
Absolutely, thanks for the comment
Hey wait....so are you saying that the check valve and bleed down are the secret sauce that makes hydraulic lifters self-adjusting???
That’s one of the magical mysteries I’ve been trying to get my mind around for a long, long time.
I think I finally got it.
Yes, the check makes it solid on the way up and on the way down the pushrod compresses the spring and oil is pumped up. The check on the bottom does the adjusting.
yes when the oil in a lifter has no where to go it act as though it is solid until it bleeds out
A very informative video. I'm looking into converting a 400 to hydraulic roller, and wasn't sure if you had the link bar that you still need the spider or dogbone. Just the durability,the more choices for oil, and lack of maintenance for a roller setup makes it worth it to me. Then on top of that the possibility of more aggressive cams. I am wondering though, would there be anymore benefit of running zddp in the oil still with hydraulic roller tappets and hydraulic roller rocker arms?
With a roller you don't need special oil, but it doesn't hurt
I say this because my old lifters have like 1/8” piston/plunger side play and no spring pressure to speak of.
There are so many variables.
I run a Comp Cams street solid roller Extreme Energy Xr292R in my 438 Windsor 68 Mustang. I use all the good parts including Isky Bushed Lifters. Cam is 621 627 lift 254, 258@50 duration. Lash was checked at 500 miles and spot on. Lash was checked again 2 years later after 1800 miles and 2 exhaust valve lifters off .002-.003. Rest were off like .001. Car sees consistent 7200 rpm blasts and full throttle runs on street. Car is driven hard. I have no idea why lash backed off .002-.003 on 2 lifters but it did. Isky bushed are supposed to be the best. Can't see how you went 3k miles and lash never moved. But maybe you have smaller cam than me, or you don't run car to 7200rpm. Solid roller lash should be checked at least every 2 years. I am guessing maybe those 2 isky bushed lifters may be wearing or something else wearing. But to go 3k miles in a 950hp solid roller car and no lash change is hard to fathom. Unless you drive real mellow all the time. But who drives a solid roller car mellow?. Also. Comp cams needle bearing lifters are crap and ruined a motor i had before. That's why i went isky bushed. Maybe motor was still breaking in and that's why some lifters moved. But i have heard isky bushed are the best
Do you run a stock non roller block?
@@terrorofdemons1168 Ford Racing SVO splayed, siamese bore, 4 bolt mains all 5 caps.
A simpler explanation has to do with reduction of friction at the lobe that allows for much higher valve spring pressure and that allows for more aggressive cam lobe profiles.
True
Parfait très bien
Merci beaucoup mon ami
Searching around the YT for cam intel, gathering data. After the "just rebuilt" engine in my 62 C10 project truck rounded a cam lobe, seeing all the trouble on the internet, I'm not so sure I should have ordered a Comp 274H cam. Probably going to spend the money for a roller retro, but man they are expensive. In the 5 years since this video was made the kit is now $1100-$1500 now depending on if it includes pushrods and chain components. .
After that it's Comp, Lunati, Howards or another brand I haven't thought of?
I've used Comp a lot without issues. Lunati might be the next best bet
Honestly if your that far in might as well go with roller lifters because flat tap wear out fast with hp sounds awesome but who wants to tear it all down to replace
Good point
I was waiting to see what holds them in
It's worth the wait
Hey Pete, I have a 302 that is a roller block but don't have the spider bar or dog bones. With the retro fit lifters do I need to add the spider bar and dog bones or is they already setup. Will I have to change push rods?
You only need one, either a dog bone or a spider, only if you have roller lifters. If you change from roller to solid, or solid to roller, you'll need new push rods
Awesome video and explanation Pete! Just two quick questions:
1. What happens if the plunger on the lifter has no movement at all. That is, it doesn't feel "springy", it only feels hard?
2. When putting them in, what if it takes good force to get them in, and they feel rough going up and down?
1) They are either frozen or locked hydraulically
2) They are the wrong size. Get the right size or hone out the bores
@@PetesGarageAwesome! Thanks for the reply Pete.
How noisy are those retrofit roller you installed in that engine ? I've tried numerous times to quiet mine down some. I've built 10-15 of these small block 350's. Some with stock roller setup, and some really wild big lift Camshafts. I just finished a 406 stroker using these retrofit hydraulic roller lifters with a mutha thumper camshaft. First adjustments were 0-lash then 1/2 turn more. These things sounded like they were hitting the inside of the intake lol. And the oil pressure is at 80psi and 55-60 when up to temperature. So I readjusted them using 3/4 turn after 0- lash. A little quieter but still loud. Final adjustment was 1 full turn after 0- lash and they are all still tapping pretty loud. I am not going any further than that with the adjustment. I don't like running them tight like that. The engine runs good but I am scared there's something is not right. And I don't want to keep running it and smash all these expensive things to bits. Is it just the way these lifters are ? or is there something I'm missing ?
Did you measure the pushrod length to make sure they right? Too long or short will cause noise.
🔥🔥🔥A hundred years ago, (well, maybe 50 or so,) when we used to build engines, we would drown the hydraulic lifters in oil overnight to fill them just before installing the pushrods and rockers to get a more accurate initial adjustment. Do you think that's something we should do with hydraulic roller lifters? BTW, Great video 👍👍👍
Sure, you can still do it, certainly won't hurt. I pump them up with the pump to make sure oil is circulating properly
@@PetesGarage Interesting, especially since Comp's instruction sheet says NOT to pump up their hydraulic lifters, but to simply clean and oil them.
@@marlinguyaustin my Morels said not to soak them in oil too. I think it's an old school habit that doesn't really do anything positive.
@@dannymccarty344 Dropping them in oil just to coat them prior too installation is what Howards Cams recommended to me for my roller lifters.
@@dannymccarty344 Probably from the same battery on the ground people and how a crankshaft should never be left on its side,on the latter one i actually read a pretty comprehensive thing about it a few years ago proving that wasn't true however those habits die hard and it doesn't hurt anyone standing it,when i see a crank sitting on its side it takes me about 3 seconds to right it back up,lol
Hi Pete. I recently had my 402 Chevy engine rebuilt, I hope my mechanic performed the cam break in properly. I'm at the point where I need to change its oil for the first time since driving it about 700 miles. Which type of oil do you recommend for a flat tappet cam?
I always use Penn Grade oil with zinc. It's a racing oil that is a bit more expensive, but worth it. The zinc acts as a lubricant for flat tappet cams
Pete, Quick question. What is the best way to estimate engine HP in the design phase? I have seen many engines built and helped during different areas of the build as my friend does dirt track racing, but this will be my first build and want it to go off without a hitch as it is going in a street car and want to make sure things are done right. Any insight and help you can provide would be greatly appreciated. Also thanks for all the videos they are a great help.
A basic rule of thumb is that you should be able to get 1 HP per cubic inch just by cleaning it up and putting in some mild performance parts. Once you start to get over 500 HP it takes a bit of experience to pick parts.
@@PetesGarage thank you for the quick reply!
I've never worked on cars but wouldn't putting a spring oil pump in the lifters exacerbate valve float and timing issues?
The hydraulic pressure takes up the lash. They become pretty solid once filled with oil.
I'm almost 100% sure that hydraulic cam lifters do not "pump" the reason they have all the mechanisms you illustrated, are for the engine's oil pressure to make the lifters turn into a solid lifter after engine starts. When oil pressure has depleted because the engine was turned off, the lifters relax, allowing the engine to turnover more easily for the next start. I could be wrong, but I don't think so.
If the lifters relax the check valve is leaking
hey, was just wondering, I have a set of crane roller tip rockers, not cheap, however, I smoked my cam my have metal in the bearings of the rollers , can I clean them with a hydrosonic cleaner or should I start over with new?
Sure, take them apart and clean them up. I do it all the time.
Pete where can I get a rebuild kit for my 1987 Chevy stock hydraulic roller??? Some of my lifters don’t have any spring to them.
You need the part number for the lifters, may be cheaper to buy a new set
What's the difference between a roller block and a non-roller block?
I have a 351w C30E-6015-B-6 block number. I want to put a new cam in with roller rockers and lifters. Is there a retrofit type of set up to allow me to use my block?
Roller blocks are blocks that had factory roller cams. They can use factory lifters and hardware. Non roller blocks can still use roller cams but you either need to get a retrofit kit or buy aftermarket roller lifters
Fascinating how the hydraulic lifter has that little check valve so it pumps up the oil ! thanks
Great point!
So say I’m building a mid 70’s 454 can I run roller lifters on it even though it doesn’t have the spider thing?
Sure, as long as the lifters have a tie bar or a dog bone to hold them in place
Did you forget to mention that 15 of 16 flat tappet lifters prefer zinc infused motor oil.? And that O2 sensors do not like zinc?
I did not forget, it is really difficult to put every little piece of info in every video. Thanks for the comment.
From the early nineteen nineties most manufacturers have designed their engines to use and installed roller lifters and cams in their engines.
Interesting
pete, did you find those lifters a little chatty?
great share by the way!
larry
I've never had a problem with them
I'm getting ready to convert my 88 f150 302 from flat to roller it's all stock beside headers and intakes what push rods would I need?
You'll have to measure
Another thing to add for hydraulic lifters, coat in oil and then wipe the face off and smear a little cam lube on it before installing,
Thanks
Which style is more durable, i.e., does one have a longer expected service life than the other?
For a mild street application the roller lifter will last longer. But, I've seen solid hydraulics last 30 years.
That is my application. Thank you!
Hi im rebuilding my enging and installing a bigger cam if i use roller lifters do i still need to run my engine for 30 minutes at 2000 rpm or i dont need to do it?
No you do not
Hi Pete, you must have noticed some lifters have different oil metering plate. They have no holes and the pushrod cup bottom does not have the passage guiding the oil to the middle hole.
You should do a part 2 video where you show this. Because those lifters are worse quality and i bet have problems oiling the top as they will only pass oil on "leak" phase of the lifter. And some Compcams lifters wont even do that. People should be warned and showed different brand lifters and their innards so they can choose working one. Im trying to do video about it myself soon.
Great suggestion, I'll do that
How about if .. I were to upgrade to roller lifter . would I have to shorten the push rod size ?
Yes
can you make a video on whats happens when lifters "tick"?
Good idea
My question is do you pump them before install lifter or just soak them in the oil
I just coat them. They get pumped up when you pre-lube with the pump
👌
👍
I'm building a 70 ls7 454 and I'm putting a roller camshaft in can I just order a set of roller push rods or do I have to measure them all
You should measure because they do come in different lengths
Do you have to break in hydralic roller lifters and cams like you do flat tappet cams?
No you do not
Hey pete, when doing a flat tappet to roller, do you need to change up the push rods? Not sure if the lifter changes heights, I'm looking to convert my 67 289 flat tapet to roller
You probably will
Yes, you will.
@Mr Yuk I know that know, I'm currently waiting on new arp studs to secure my heads
Question, if my engine sat one year. Lifters are soft. They could leak during time?
Yes they can
Found out recently that our You tube mentors do not get paid if you don't play the ads! So play the ads....... just mute them like you do on tv
Thanks Sandy
If I disassemble a lifters, will it fix when they get hard to push?
Maybe
Hi I have a 73 Nova with a 350. I want to go roller tired of wiping out flat tapped. I'm confused I keep seeing video's of a spider being installed to convert to roller cam?
The spider prevents the lifters from rotating
I have 327 motor . Can I change flat hydraulic lifter to roller hydraulic lifter and roller cam . Thank you
Sure
If you push the plunger down while removing the clip it will never go flying.
Absolutely
So I have a L99 engine in my 2014 Camaro SS and I’ve heard they have lifter issues, can you explain to me why and if so , should I go with a better aftermarket set and or remove the Active Fuel Management system ? Thanks 🙏
If there is nothing wrong with it, leave it alone
@@PetesGarage ok but can you tell me what kind of lifters my L99 has ? Solid or lifters with a wheel , just curious and thanks for you advice, I’ve been told on the Camaro forums to use a tune to deactivate the active fuel management system and I will do that 😀😀🥳
And now for a completely different set of opinions on this subject.
Solid lifters pump oil to the top end just exactly like hydraulic lifters do. They have to or your rockers and springs would never get any oil and they would fail. The difference is that hydraulic lifters use a hydraulic component inside the lifter for valve lash. With solid lifters you are required to adjust valve lash manually with the correct width feeler gauge when the lifter is on the base circle of the cam.
The roller reduces friction idea is a myth. The needle bearings that allow the roller shaft to roll are a source of friction and so is the roller wheel. Any time there is metal to metal contact there is friction regardless if the metal is rolling or not. The oil film only reduces the amount of friction by putting a molecular cushion between the metal parts so they don't destroy themselves. The oil film absorbs some of the friction which is a main reason that the oil gets hot. Same thing happens in a torque converter. Working the oil induces heat.
A molecular level of oil film sits between the flat tappet lifter and the cam. The same applies for a roller. If it didn't do that, the lifter would wipe the cam lobe every time. It is only during the initial start up for the first few minutes that the cam lobe and flat tappet lifter face are worn in or mated. Actually, it is a hone operation that is built into the cam lobe face.
Building an aggressive flat tappet engine is a bit more aggravation than a roller because at a certain level of aggressiveness on the cam profile you have to remove the inner valve spring for break in to prevent the lifter from wiping all the oil film off the cam lobe and that is what causes the cam lobe to be wiped. I've been running flat tappet solid cams and lifters for over 20 years. Never wiped a cam lobe.
The always adjusting lash with solids is also a myth. The solution to that was invented eons ago and that is the poly lock. I check mine after the initial run in and then once every 6 months to a year. 6 months if it is a drag engine and once a year if it is a street engine. Regardless, the same applies to lash adjustment whether it is a flat tappet solid or a roller solid.
Roller lifters are actually worse than flat tappet lifters in one significant respect. They are much heavier and moving the lifter up and down thousands of times per minute is more of a drag on power than with a flat tappet lifter.
An advantage of a roller package is that you can re-use roller lifters with another cam but I would never advise doing it. New cam gets new lifters every time at my place. With flat tappet lifters and cam lobes matched, it is really not that hard to number them if you have to pull the cam and lifters for some reason. People that don't or can't seem to do that are just lazy. In all my engine work, the only time I have pulled a flat tappet cam and lifters is to replace it.
Another disadvantage of roller lifters is what happens when a lifter fails. Most often, when a flat tappet does fail for some reason you are out a cam and lifters and flat tappet cams and lifters are relatively not expensive. When a roller lifter comes apart you have generally destroy the entire engine(not always, generally) because most often it is the roller that comes apart due to needle bearing or roller shaft failure. It will crack the lifter bore or bores, throw needles down into the engine and pretty much destroy it. Another common way the rollers fail is unlatching a link bar and I've seen link bars break. The roller rotates sideways and then destroys the cam, lifter bore or bores and the block.
The are only a couple of advantages the roller lifter has. One is that you can run a more aggressive cam lobe and you get a broader power curve. The other is that you can run a higher lift with a roller before you risk the edge of the lifter face digging into the cam.
Awesome comment! Thank you for taking the time to share
Looking at distributors I've seen HEI and non hei type my question is what is hei and what are the benefits or downfalls for both hei and non hei
The HEI distributor is still an inductive-discharge ignition, but exchanges points for an electronic device called a module. ... The large cap also offers extra space to host the coil, making the HEI distributor self-contained. It also produces a hotter spark.
1989 ford mustang 5.o roller short block xxx e303 heads gt 40 can you put these together
Sure
So, just dipping the lifters is sufficient? You don't have to "prime" them?
No, They fill up as you prime to oil pump and turn it over
Will Acetone work to clean those before dipping in oil?
Yes, absolutely
Are the roller lifters also better for your high lift cams. They seem like they would be.
They are better for high lift, that is why you get a little more HP out of them.
the ramp and lobe shape for a roller cam is specifically designed for roller lifters.compare a regular flat tappet hydraulic cam lobe to a roller cam lobe and its difference is immediately apparent,roller lifters are for roller cams and hydraulic lifters are for flat tappet,hydraulic cams
So do you not prime new lifters.prior to install?
I've looked all over and couldn't find a good answer.
Some say just coat in oil, and drop in.
Others say to use a vice to compress new lifters, drain them, then prime them by hand...then install.
I just replaced lifters in my 5.4 2v ford....
Majority of rattle is gone...still have 1 slight rattle,
And have hazing at idle.
Nothing changed other than new lifter installs.
No haze prior to replacing lifters.
I do not.After installing I primes the whole system by turning it over and filling up the lifters.
hi Sir, just wants to asks does the wholes on the lifter need to be straight to each other or it doesn't matter
It does not matter
its does nots matters
Hey bud, I'm replacing the wussy solid flat tappet cam in my 428FE that I bought from Jim Dove. It was for his truck, so no need for a big cam. He's retired now. I'm going back and forth on either a mechanical roller or hrdro roller., I'm not racing anymore, so it'll be for street fun (I'm on the engine all the time) and a few racing events a year, If you recall I built a 427 S/C Cobra years ago. In your latest video here you've gone with a hydro. Did you just want a lower RPM daily driver for the Stang ? For my purpose, I won't be going over 6,000 RPM, but I'm a little concerned about oil bubbles in the lifter at higher RPM, would you ? I don't mind lashing valves on a solid roller, I did check them on my other engines with a solid flat tappet. And now with the solid roller wheel that are replacing the tiny bearings, I'm not worried. People think that you have to last the valves all the time, but you don't if you set up the valvetrain properly. So what cam type would you suggest ?
I use hydraulic to keep it maintenance free. I wouldn't worry about bubbles. A roller cam does reduce friction
@@PetesGarage ok, thanks Pete. The build is looking great.
how much shorter are the pushrods when going to the taller rollers . .
It really depends on the engine, rockers and lifters