I've seen far too many people get their new engines 'tuned' over the box by some expert. And when it comes to running laps, the engine is either too lean/rich so these same people will say brand XYZ is notoriously bad at getting a proper tune. Dont get me wrong. I have been following Adam's break-in method for years on my Novarossi /OS and I got it tuned to my liking. Doesnt flame out or overheat, just constant power. Now if only I can download his driving skills as well 😅
Awesome video, thanks for all your information and other resources. Just a weekend warrior racer here that loves the sound, smell, and characteristics of an actual internal combustion engine in my RC. Your CZcams and website has helped a lot, even in tuning my nitro bashers
I believe thats a main reason some people give up on nitro engines because of some failire at the clutch or wrong glowplug or not sealed right etc, etc or engine bearings important the big bearing inside the engine and a lot of other things especially the carb.
@@cbh148 me self i had a old lrp z28 spec 3 was runnning great forget to change the engine bearing inside after 10 litres of running and at some day the engine was running great it revs really high temp was around 135 celsius but and then the engine stops and yeah the result big engine bearing inside was just dfemolished. ME SELF IM DOING SOMETIMES A NEWBIE MISTAKES LIKE THAT BUT IM STILL LEARNING AND LOVE NITRO RC THE SMELL THE SOUND E VERYTHING (((((( sorry for my english i know its not the best)))
@@AdamDrake okay ... wow. I usually arrive late at a race and don't have time to run at the track and tune my engine. So I can just go out of the property (racetrack) and tune the engine (running it around) at the parking lot rather than tuning on a box in my pit area. thanks man
Adam, when I experience a flameout when my engine is up to temperature (brand new engine), then I can't get it to restart. I can see that fuel is trying to enter the carb, but seems like heat is keeping it from entering the case and the car does not want to start until it cools off. I am having this issue with one car and it seems like car-related but I can't believe that this is a car-related issue. What am I doing wrong?
@@kyronrc I threw a brand new glow plug in and it was still doing this and added another shim because I was running 30% fuel but that seemed to have made it worse.
Could be bad clutch bell bearings or an issue with the clutch shoes not disengaging. Could also be a bad setting on the mid screw ( fuel mixture screw )
I've seen far too many people get their new engines 'tuned' over the box by some expert. And when it comes to running laps, the engine is either too lean/rich so these same people will say brand XYZ is notoriously bad at getting a proper tune. Dont get me wrong. I have been following Adam's break-in method for years on my Novarossi /OS and I got it tuned to my liking. Doesnt flame out or overheat, just constant power. Now if only I can download his driving skills as well 😅
Awesome video, thanks for all your information and other resources. Just a weekend warrior racer here that loves the sound, smell, and characteristics of an actual internal combustion engine in my RC. Your CZcams and website has helped a lot, even in tuning my nitro bashers
Thank you very much, appreciate the feedback!
love how calm and clear you explain things Adam... i can take and learn so much from you. THANKS!
Happy to hear that!
New to the channel but this sure helps with beginners in the sport like myself I appreciate the knowledge
Glad to hear it!
Good video as always. A live demo will help too. And we would love for you to visit GA again maybe for peachstate
Sounds good!
I believe thats a main reason some people give up on nitro engines because of some failire at the clutch or wrong glowplug or not sealed right etc, etc or engine bearings important the big bearing inside the engine and a lot of other things especially the carb.
Clutch issues and rear bearing issues get misdiagnosed as a bad tune so often. I’m guilty of it too.
@@cbh148 me self i had a old lrp z28 spec 3 was runnning great forget to change the engine bearing inside after 10 litres of running and at some day the engine was running great it revs really high temp was around 135 celsius but and then the engine stops and yeah the result big engine bearing inside was just dfemolished. ME SELF IM DOING SOMETIMES A NEWBIE MISTAKES LIKE THAT BUT IM STILL LEARNING AND LOVE NITRO RC THE SMELL THE SOUND E VERYTHING (((((( sorry for my english i know its not the best)))
Yes, with nitro there are a lot of variables and lots to maintain. Engine and clutch maintenance is key.
You brought up some good points. Once again, thanks.
My pleasure, thank you!
Hello great video information Adam
Thanks for watching
Very informative video 🙌 great tips about tuning 👍
good vid
Thank you!
I just want an RD motor just because it’s pink and they are great OS motors!
It's a great engine!
Perfect info👍🇮🇪💯
Appreciated
Excellent thank you 👍
You are welcome!
Hey Adam can I ask your advice, how many ltrs or gallons of fuel would you run before changing the conrod I have the O.S B2104 thanks
Great info! 👏🏼👍🏼👌🏼💪🏼
Appreciate it!
Do you have preference/knowlegde in head shimming when it comes to large elevation changes between tracks?
Yes, I have a video for that as well.
czcams.com/video/b0EGjKY6S88/video.htmlsi=ii6trTnan-70JJdg
So tuning the engine running on a parking lot is better than tuning it on the box..... is this correct?
Correct
@@AdamDrake okay ... wow. I usually arrive late at a race and don't have time to run at the track and tune my engine. So I can just go out of the property (racetrack) and tune the engine (running it around) at the parking lot rather than tuning on a box in my pit area. thanks man
@@philfernandez6306 Happy to help!
Adam, when I experience a flameout when my engine is up to temperature (brand new engine), then I can't get it to restart. I can see that fuel is trying to enter the carb, but seems like heat is keeping it from entering the case and the car does not want to start until it cools off. I am having this issue with one car and it seems like car-related but I can't believe that this is a car-related issue. What am I doing wrong?
can be glow plug or wrong compression ration for the nitro percentage you are using. You can adjust that with head shims.
@@kyronrc I threw a brand new glow plug in and it was still doing this and added another shim because I was running 30% fuel but that seemed to have made it worse.
@@marcowerner8739 hmm... in this case test lowering the ratio, i have an engine thats just like that. Using almost no shims makes it run better.
Could be bad clutch bell bearings or an issue with the clutch shoes not disengaging. Could also be a bad setting on the mid screw ( fuel mixture screw )
Go back to box stock settings on all screws and lean back out from there. This has done the trick for me more than once.