Radius Dresser Build Part 3
Vložit
- čas přidán 20. 08. 2024
- This is the third and final part of the series on machining a radius dresser for my surface grinder. It features machining operations on the mill, lathe, shaper and surface grinder.
- Věda a technologie
Another fine example of tooling using a wide range of your machines. The set up on the Shaper is just great to watch.and the finished dresser will be a great addition to the Grinder. Nice work
@@Griffon37 Thanks Jon. In a couple of videos time I might get round to cutting a gear again😁
Beautiful work,Robert and good to see how you do use your macinenes.Thank you.
Thanks!
That was a great series, very nicely done.
Thanks! Took me ages to edit that last part. Hours of filming got junked!
Its very enjoyable watching you work.
Thanks! All edited to speed things up of course😁
A very clever way to use the micrometer
Thank you!
Nice use of milling cutters in the boring head, I purchased a boxed boring head from a auction, it was full of the most weird grinds on all sorts of hardly recognisable milling cutters. 2 flute milling cutters work great in a lathe tool post for short bores, especially in brass or plastics.
Excellent build and photography, thanks for sharing.
Best regards from the Black Country.
John
Thank you. Using the milling cutters was a result of laziness... I really didnt want to spend hours grinding up a cutting tool. I've never really got on with that carbide insert bar.
Robert, this video definitely was not too long for me. I also liked your use of milling cutters in your boring head -- I'll have to try that too.
@@bobvines00 Thanks for the feedback Bob. The editing took a lot of effort to keep the video moving at a good pace. As for the milling cutters in a boring head, it was because I couldn't be bothered to spend a couple of hours grinding some HSS, so it was a win-win situation!
Very interesting video. I’ve never seen such fine curves. Lot of equipment in a shed. Very good stuff.
Thank you! That was a lot of work compacted into that video. As for the amount of equipment, it's squeezed into the little space I have. Using the bandsaw for example, I have to move a tool cabinet so the saw can be pulled out to use!
Very interesting. Nice work sir
Thanks very much!
really good viewing!!,, what a set up at the 30 minute mark!! awesome👍👍
Glad you liked it. I like a good setup too. It always seems to take longer than the actual machining.
Robert, real nice work! The surface from the shaper is excellent! One suggestion; when milling a radius on the rotary table it's best to feed in to the cutter or in a conventional way. By doing so you close the possible backlash in the rotary table. I once made the mistake to make a climb cut on a tall aluminium part and the cutter grapt the part and broke leaving me with a mild heart attack... Best! Job
@@jobkneppers Thanks! When it comes to milling on the rotary table I dont find backlash a problem. The worm engagement with the wormwheel is adjustable add I keep it fairly tight. Granted, I take smaller climb cuts than conventional cuts. Anything tall with a large cutter engagement I'd treat with a good deal more caution.
I don't think I ever had an "oops" moment like that... well... not more than a few times a week :)
Only a few times a week! Very proficient😁
Nice Mate!
Thank you very much. I put much more effort into the editing, which takes me ages!
Olá amigo que maravilha de trabalho,perfeito!!!
Lhe desejo saúde e cada vez mais sucesso!!!
Thank you very much!
Really enjoyed this series Robert thank-you. I'm pleased to see the I'm not the only nutter that's made his own adjustable parallels! Did you cut the dovetails on the shaper?
Thanks! Well, other than rough Chinese offerings, adjustable parallels aren't that cheap! Didn't use the shaper for those, I sharpened a face & side cutter at an angle, tilted the work by the dovetail angle and horizontally milled them. They were then surface ground to make everything line up perfectly and to make them look pretty.
Very nice work as always Robert a great usefull project ! As an aside, I have had similar finish issues with that style of boring bar in the boring head. I found using an insert for aluminium works much better for the small depth of cut which is more common on the boring head. The style of inser I have used is a TCGT which is ground and honed to a sharp edge much like a hss tool. The moulded insert TCMT is good when you can give it a good depth of cut to get over the edge of the moulded insert. So I tend to rough with a moulded insert and finish with the ground insert. I also do this with the lathe tools if I need to take a very small depth of cut,it will prouce swarf almost down to dust size if needed. A good use of el cheepo import inserts for me ! Would be interested on your thoughts on this?
@@neilh2150 I like that suggestion! I use CCGT inserts for finishing on the lathe and this looks like the same way of working adapted for the boring head. Thank you!
BTW, the moulded inserts always seem to rub on the bottom of the front edge, so I invariably grind a little more relief, avoiding modifying the cutting edge. I guess I'd end up doing the same with TCGT inserts, as most of the holes I bore out aren't that big a diameter. Or maybe I set the boring bar to the wrong angle in the boring head...