I bought a Mitutoyo 117-107 Uni-Mike cheap - it had parts missing. In this video I machine some replacements using best guesses to determine dimensions to make this into a useful measuring tool.
Thank you. I guess if you've got one of these you'll see I didn't get all of the details of the clamp right, no spring and no shoulders to capture the flat anvil, but I was going on guesswork and after I'd finished I watched the Joe Pie video again and saw what I'd missed first time around!
Well, that's a nice little job. I think the 90-degree groove proves the old adage, that the setup takes a lot longer than the machining on a mill. Quite a handy little mill as well. Must be nice to have the tool and cutter grinder as well, to keep the tooling in top condition.
Thank you. The missing parts made the uni-mike affordable. I doubt I'll wear it out! The mill is the perfect size for my workshop. I acquired the TC grinder specifically for sharpening the horizontal milling cutters which are cheap second hand. It seems to have been even more useful than I would have imagined.
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop Yes I got a whole load of horizontal cutters for my universal mill at auction along with indexible inserts and normal vertical milling bits. I think there was £2k's worth at least at full prices for £100. I just need the cutter grinder to sort them all out. And then buy the tooling to fit the inserts. 🤔
Nice. That will work just fine. I just don't understand how people can loose those anvils. It's like loosing the seats of your car. It doesn't make any sense.
Thanks. I agree with you about losing the accessories. However the mic can be used as a depth mic without them so maybe thats what happened and they got lost in the junk.
Nice work Robert. One trick I was shown by a Toolmaker for using the tailstock die holder on shorter thread lengths is to retract the cross slide so the die holder handle can rest on the top of the the tool post ( no tool holder fitted] the saddle is positioned so the handle is towards the tailstock end of the toolpost so as the cut advances it doesn’t fall of the headstock end of the tool post block. If the pitch is one I can select from the gearbox I’ll often screw cut then finish with the die holder. I understand the Hemingway die holder is a pleasure to use, it’s on my very long list …. . I was a little concerned that your part would move on your mag chuck being what looks like a standard rather than a fine pole, I wouldn’t trust mine and use additional blocking, I can still not understand why Dronsfield chose clockwise rotation for the Eagle rather than anticlockwise which seems to be the case for all other SG’s I have seen.
My tailstock die holder is one I made years ago when all I had was a minilathe, hence the stubby handle. I don't have a vast selection of dies and most of the metric ones I have aren't split. I also quite often single point critical threads then finish with a die, especially if they're fairly big (thats 1/2" and upwards for me!). As for the small part on the mag chuck, I tried several locations and gave it a good tug test before grinding and was careful to only take light cuts, a thou maximum. The spindle nut is RH, I guess due to the direction of rotation at startup. Granted they could have reversed everything. Its a 3 ph motor run on a VFD and I have a 20sec ramp up and down time to avoid shocking the wheel.
I’m not a fan of the non split dies but we have to work with what we have. Regarding the Eagle there would have been no cost difference to have made it rotate conventionally at the design stage. I am tempted to make a new spindle for mine with a LH nut so I can do this provided I don’t find any other serious issues when I restore it. A grinder hand advised me to hand rotate a spindle that has been sat for more that a few days to ensure some lubrication is on all of the contact faces before running it up, this is probably more important on an oil lubricated spindle, I can’t recall right now if the Eagle is intended to be greased.I too have my working SG on a slow ramp up. Mag chuck ages it looks like you have a good one. Looking forward to your next vid.
this is a well done repair!!what kind of mill do you have? like the re purpose of the little drill chuck. impressive looking slab mill. lots of traffic,, main rd?? cheers.👍👍
Thanks! It's an Elliott model 00. It's smaller than a Bridgeport but big enough to be useful. The slab mill is a great cutter, the helical teeth cause less "hammer" on the workpiece than a straight toothed cutter. Depth of cut is limiter by the single overarm support bar though. Take a deep cut and you can see the 3 inch solid bar bending! Then it chatters horribly. Yes, I had the doors open for this video. Dual carriageway not far away.
Very nice work sir. I like it when a tool can be saved and get used again.
Nice job on a rare tool build. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
Very nice plan , good workmanship , you have a good set up, all the right equipment.
Thank you. I've been buying the machines as I find them and I give each one a complete overhaul.
Beautiful work,beautiful equipment,Robert.I got that mike.Thank you.
Thank you. I guess if you've got one of these you'll see I didn't get all of the details of the clamp right, no spring and no shoulders to capture the flat anvil, but I was going on guesswork and after I'd finished I watched the Joe Pie video again and saw what I'd missed first time around!
Well, that's a nice little job. I think the 90-degree groove proves the old adage, that the setup takes a lot longer than the machining on a mill. Quite a handy little mill as well. Must be nice to have the tool and cutter grinder as well, to keep the tooling in top condition.
Thank you. The missing parts made the uni-mike affordable. I doubt I'll wear it out! The mill is the perfect size for my workshop. I acquired the TC grinder specifically for sharpening the horizontal milling cutters which are cheap second hand. It seems to have been even more useful than I would have imagined.
@@ThePottingShedWorkshop Yes I got a whole load of horizontal cutters for my universal mill at auction along with indexible inserts and normal vertical milling bits. I think there was £2k's worth at least at full prices for £100. I just need the cutter grinder to sort them all out. And then buy the tooling to fit the inserts. 🤔
Nice. That will work just fine.
I just don't understand how people can loose those anvils. It's like loosing the seats of your car. It doesn't make any sense.
Thanks. I agree with you about losing the accessories. However the mic can be used as a depth mic without them so maybe thats what happened and they got lost in the junk.
Nice work Robert. One trick I was shown by a Toolmaker for using the tailstock die holder on shorter thread lengths is to retract the cross slide so the die holder handle can rest on the top of the the tool post ( no tool holder fitted] the saddle is positioned so the handle is towards the tailstock end of the toolpost so as the cut advances it doesn’t fall of the headstock end of the tool post block. If the pitch is one I can select from the gearbox I’ll often screw cut then finish with the die holder. I understand the Hemingway die holder is a pleasure to use, it’s on my very long list …. . I was a little concerned that your part would move on your mag chuck being what looks like a standard rather than a fine pole, I wouldn’t trust mine and use additional blocking, I can still not understand why Dronsfield chose clockwise rotation for the Eagle rather than anticlockwise which seems to be the case for all other SG’s I have seen.
My tailstock die holder is one I made years ago when all I had was a minilathe, hence the stubby handle. I don't have a vast selection of dies and most of the metric ones I have aren't split. I also quite often single point critical threads then finish with a die, especially if they're fairly big (thats 1/2" and upwards for me!).
As for the small part on the mag chuck, I tried several locations and gave it a good tug test before grinding and was careful to only take light cuts, a thou maximum.
The spindle nut is RH, I guess due to the direction of rotation at startup. Granted they could have reversed everything. Its a 3 ph motor run on a VFD and I have a 20sec ramp up and down time to avoid shocking the wheel.
I’m not a fan of the non split dies but we have to work with what we have. Regarding the Eagle there would have been no cost difference to have made it rotate conventionally at the design stage. I am tempted to make a new spindle for mine with a LH nut so I can do this provided I don’t find any other serious issues when I restore it. A grinder hand advised me to hand rotate a spindle that has been sat for more that a few days to ensure some lubrication is on all of the contact faces before running it up, this is probably more important on an oil lubricated spindle, I can’t recall right now if the Eagle is intended to be greased.I too have my working SG on a slow ramp up. Mag chuck ages it looks like you have a good one. Looking forward to your next vid.
Very nice work!
Phil
Thanks!
Another great video. Thank you. 👍🇳🇱
Thank you! I wasn't going to film it, but wouldn't have had enough time this week to generate any material for a video had I not.
Very good job.
Thanks!
this is a well done repair!!what kind of mill do you have? like the re purpose of the little drill chuck. impressive looking slab mill. lots of traffic,, main rd?? cheers.👍👍
Thanks! It's an Elliott model 00. It's smaller than a Bridgeport but big enough to be useful. The slab mill is a great cutter, the helical teeth cause less "hammer" on the workpiece than a straight toothed cutter. Depth of cut is limiter by the single overarm support bar though. Take a deep cut and you can see the 3 inch solid bar bending! Then it chatters horribly.
Yes, I had the doors open for this video. Dual carriageway not far away.