Advice I would change for 9 out of 10 climbers
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- čas přidán 4. 06. 2024
- I have changed my mind about a few things in my book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes. Mainly on nutrition.
www.davemacleod.com/shop/9out...
My Patreon: / davemacleod - Sport
I started climbing later than most (age 32) and I've fought with depression much of my life so I've found your information and approach to life and climbing to have a massive impact on my personal growth. Thanks for that Dave, cheers and Happy New Year.
Hey buddy me too! On the climbing and depression. Really hope life keeps moving in a way that's uplifting for you!
I need to sack up. I loved gym climbing in my teens, but I haven’t climbed for over a decade and feel “too old” to start. Load of bullocks, but I feel it.
Hah have you beat by 7 years! And I am seriously doubting myself maybe I stared too late! But I love it I am a huge rookie but I can’t get enough of it I really wish I had of got involved a long time ago. I’m high school they brought a cave like wall and I lived in it for three weeks and then it was gone. I wish I had of got into then. I don’t know I see people in the gym looking at my new ass and thinking this dude is like 40 what’s he doing lol
@@Petey17564 No one will care about your age. Climbers are a generally very friendly bunch I've found. Just be injury averse and remember that your body will take longer to adapt than the younger climbers, especially our old tendons.
I always find it fascinating how many times I hear your story. I believe there is a definite corollation between activity and mental health. Climbing takes this further because it engages the problem solving aspect of your mind and requires full concentration. This busying of the mind removes the time and space for negative thoughts.
Thanks for everything you do and discuss Dave. Its appreciated
This is a fantastic format, I love how qualified you are and open to updating your priors, thanks for sharing with us!
Amazing - thanks Dave for all the brilliant free content you put out. As an older (51) boulderer and sport climber you and Gresh are a massive inspiration.
Recognizing that there is a lot of individual variation is important when it comes to nutrition. I feel fantastic and my doctor likes my blood work on a high carb , moderate fat high protein diet, rich in minimally processed fruits and vegetables, essentially the diet recommendations made by most government health organizations around the world. I experience none of the things that motivate people to cut out carbs or meat. But I know many people that have been plant based for years and feel their best with no animal products at all. I know fewer that really love ketogenic diets, but they usually have some major digestive/ allergy issue that was resolved when they stopped eating carbs/plants altogether. There’s no one size fits all diet. It’s food after all. It’s supposed to help you live your life not hold you back.
Thanks Dave for for the shoutout 🙏. Glad you liked the nugget podcast 🙌. Very good analysis of todays social media hypes; I think it’s very important to keep adressing the few simple key principles before getting (too) fancy 💯🙌. Loved (and still get back to it every year) your 9/10 book and how nuanced and detailed (because that’s what real life is about) your approach always is. On paper and online media as well. Really appreciate the work you keep doing and getting out to all of us 🙌. Happy 2024 🎉
Fun to hear the podcast mentioned here. Cheers Martin and Dave! I'm honored to have interviewed both of you!
@@stevendimmittWhat podcast is that again?
Thanks for your time and effort to help educate us climbers. I really enjoy your books. Happy new year!
So much valuable advice and insights in this format. Love it. thanks Dave!
Enjoying the videos and info, Dave. Thanks
legend dave great indepth advice as usual. thanks for all your sharing of knowledge and epic content in 2023
Great content, reflections and insights as usual 👌. You are doing Great work.
Got all your books Dave. Looking forward to your new project (book?) and wisdom shared.
I'm looking forward to hearing your opinion and knowledge about the 2nd point in your outline.
I've found a lot of the media training is sensationalist and excessive, actually increase the risk of injury.
have a happy, healthy and productive year Dave and thanks for all your content and knowledge.
Thanks Dave. Great informative content as always
Amazing as always! Thanks Dave
Love your insight into everything you talk about... Off to find my copy of 9 out of 10 to remind myself where I should be at 😅. Happy New Year 🎉
Enjoy, and hit me up with any questions you have.
Very good points, thanks a lot for clarifying the last question. I like that you repeat most important points in times of media flood
The real question is: How well can Dave play the guitar?
i really enjoy your content, keep it up!
Thanks for all the work you put into your videos Dave. I’ve been struggling with golfers elbow for more than 3 years now, and that’s how i found your channel. Now I feel in a very good moment, climbin on my peak, but the pain is still there almost every day after climbing. I have just started your book, “Make or Break”, it’s not easy for me because english it’s not my first lenguage but it’s really encouraging me to don’t quiet from climbing and try to overcome that injury or at least learn how to combine it with climbing.
Find a good physical therapist! I used to have the same issue and have been pain free for years after strengthening my forearm extensor muscles, stretching more and doing other things my PT recommended.
@@willburns5189 I agree! I've come back from golfers elbow to become the strongest I've ever been, it's very possible!
hombre que bien que te esfuerces por entender un libro en otro idioma; lo mas importante es ser perseverante y juicioso con los ejercicios de rehabilitación!!!
I got it a few months ago. Rest didn't help at all. I came across David's recommendations as well as the video "Basic Wrist Stability Training for Climbers" by Hooper's Beta. Have been doing strength training for the last two months, and generally trying to push the pain to a 3/10 in these exercises but no more than that. As of now, the golfer's elbow is almost gone.
great video dave - I had another video idea I would love to see. just pretains to training. I would love to see a video of you doing boulders at a traditional bouldering gym simiar to how magnus does a lot of the boulders in a gym in some videos. I think this would be insteresting to viewers becuase we are so used to seeing you just train on your home wall or outside - im curious how you do on comp style boulders and other "indoor" style problems. As most of us train at these gyms but have outdoor goals it can be sometimes confusing advice to say 'train your weaknesses" when my weakness might be a double dyno or something more pretaining to parkor than outdoor rock. I would love to see what you think of those kind of probems and how you would approach a session in a large gym.
Absolutely gutted to hear your eczema came back and you have not been able to get rid of it. That is a very curious occurence, and opens up all sorts of questions as to why it has not gone away. I hope you can find a way to remove it again. Anyway, thanks for being a great beacon of simple and actionable climbing knowledge over the past few decades!
Eczema is often an autoimmune condition, so it could be multiple triggers. Sufferers of psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and other similar autoimmune disorders typically get it in waves, eg you contract a cold or other infection and your immune system goes into Mach-3. Another extremely important factor is stress level. I think removing inflammatory food stuffs is definitely helpful but will never be a permanent fix. That said, I’m convinced Dave will be rid of it again in the future.
I am glad you touch on nutrition because it is so important and our choices have huge impacts on our health, the animals and the environment.
I stopped eating animal products for ethical reasons and as a climber and surfer I have lots of energy and I can perform at my best.
Lots of top athletes from different spheres are plant based and we can get all essential nutrients from a well planned while food diet.
The vitamine B12 is advised to supplement to make sure we have enough because of modern way of living make getting B12 more difficult. Farm animals are being given B12 , but even meat eaters should supplement.
Animal agriculture is also one of the leading cause of climate change.
Peace begin on our plate 😊
Hi Dave, love your videos! I have an odd question, I see a guitar in the background. Is there synergy between guitar training and climbing? Does the callus and finger mobility from playing the guitar help? Thanks again for all the great content 😊
Sorry to hear that your Eczema returned. Mine only went away after adopting an almost entirely whole foods plant based diet. Such diets vary so wildly that we were probably eating very differently. It's also the only eating pattern in which ive been able to eat to satiety and not gain weight (unless that was a goal).
I had success with low carb diet some years prior, but the last time i tried it didn't work out so well. That was also post gallbladder removal, which may or may not be related.
Hi Dave, would you mind letting me know what the podcast with Martin Keller was? Also, would you have any sports science journals to recommend? Thanks!
The Nugget. No specific journals - there are hundreds if not thousands and all have good papers and not so good papers. Best to search pubmed by topic and to follow a wide net of active researchers in topics of interest.
Great episode. perfect on a stormy, wet new years day :)
Thanks for this video Dave McLeod. Any link to Martin Keller's podcast please? :)
Hi Dave, thank you for your interesting videos as always. What is your understanding of why "keto rash" happens? During my experiment with a keto diet, I developed quite a severe case of keto rash, which triggered the return of my childhood eczema and was only resolved by coming off the diet and using some quite potent medicine. I'd be interested to hear your suspicions about why some bodies may respond more favourably to a keto diet than others
Wow. So much interesting stuff here, Dave, but your experience with eczema really sparked my interest. I have the same issues. Will definetly try and see if i can replicate your results.
Hey @Dave Macleod do you reckon the ketogenic diet would work for long-term high intensity inputs like mountaineering? Especially over multiple days/weeks or at high altitude. I suppose one would get sick of dehydrated eggs and meat!😅
I returned to climbing after 20 years.
4-5 years ago I got it with my weigth to 150kg and was really metabolically sick.
Time-restricted eating combined with ketogenic/carnivore diet got me down to a weight adn a shape I can start climbing again...
Your point that the five minute mark seems to go against all nutrition science to date. I’ve never seen a study that correlated vegetable intake with over eating.
I’d also like to see the study on fiber from vegetables being damaging to your health.
hahaha click bait thumbnail, you scared me for a sec. Love your vids
Very interesting Dave. I think my mega carb fuelling for marathon running had bad effects on my body back in my early 30s that have taken years for me to break. I remember slurping on gels, and guzzling bottles of carb mixtures, and still crashing.I gave up sugar completely a year and 1/2 ago, I gave up fake sugar too in the process as well. Maybe I should try and refine things a bit, winter leads me towards eating carbs, I'm not sure if this is driven by appetite, or because it's hard wired into winter diets. The less carbs I eat, the better
Thanks, Dave, do you have a "what I eat in a day or a week" type video as that would be fantastic to watch ?
Whats that app or programm you´re using to scroll through your studies ? Also good job as always !
Endnote.
Thank you @@climbermacleod
The eczemy returning is really curious. I imagine there's not much literature on this and I'm wondering if you have seen this in the literature or have ideas on why a repeat remission on return to a keto or carnivor diet hasn't occurred. Are you planning any new experiments?
does your blood sugar naturally sit on the low or high side of the scale... i suspect that people who sit on the high side would do better on low carb, compared to folk on the low side?
If you're struggling with Keto, increase salt as it helps with satiety amongst other benefits.
Sorry to hear about your eczema Dave, was there any improvement in it when you went back to a ketogenic diet?
Yes dramatic improvement, but I've only achieved complete remission with a pretty strict carnivore diet.
Thanks for sharing! I am also suffering from eczema: do you think it could be linked to something else like gluten, glyphosate, etc, rather than the carbs per se ? Said differently: why do you think carnivore diet cured your eczema ?
You should find his long video on eating only McDonalds patties. He goes through some of the scientific evidence for plant food stuffs directly causing inflammation.
I'll be "dusting" off 9 out of 10 climbers for my annual read. It helps keep me developing as a climber.
My main aim for this year is to work on my diet.
Thanks for all your hard work
The "sea of content" is such a big thing, for training topics and nutrition and everything else. There's so much information out there now, it's extremely difficult to know who to believe.
Yeah that's the challenge of today's age. Only one real solution in my view - verify claims by familiarising yourself with scientific literature. Much easier than endlessly trying to guess who might be right.
The book is universal and it will never get old. It simply shows what really matters and that concentrating on minute details like resting 5s instead of 7s is absolutely worthless.
My dermatitis has improved with taking creatine, vit D, and a probiotic every day. Not sure which one of those (if any!) is causing the improvement.
I'm not sure if you've come across this in your research but would be interested on your thoughts.
What is more important:
Diet or sustaining a healthy weight?
Do we get too caught up on diet? As long as we eat fairly balanced and maintain a healthy weight?
It's not an either or. Healthy weight and good diet are both critical. The question is akin to saying what's more important in climbing, strength or technique. Both.
@@climbermacleodI was just wondering, i thought maybe trying to find the optimally healthy diet becomes less important if people maintain a healthy wieght?, Ive been trying to find good information on healthy diets, but its actually quite difficult because most things always relate to calories, or seem biased towards a certain agenda.
Thanks for taking the time to reply. Your videos are great, I eapecially love your video on footswaps, so informative and in depth, I really hope you can do some more videos similar to that!
Thanks again
What u think about omad and keto. I dont want to lose weight but stay the same
Hi Dave, what would you expect a 35 year old male, 95kg, 20%-25% fat, their intake of beef to be per day? I climbed for years, but ...
I'm curious to ask as I'd like to consider a carnivore diet, but it would depend on approximate costs as a limiter
To lose 10-15 kg of body fat, I guess I'm looking at about 1 - 1.5kg of beef.
I'm not being evasive here - I really don't know. It could vary wildly depending on activity levels and especially what fat/protein ratio you shoot for. In my country at this moment there is a vast price difference per calorie between 20% fat ground beef and 5%. Some great videos on YT about doing a carnivore diet on a budget. Fatty ground beef and eggs come out pretty cheap. And if you add high fat dairy even cheaper.
@climbermacleod thanks for getting back. I'll research a little deeper. Cheers
Do you take account of how research papers are funded when doing your research?
Just wondering as surely alot of research favours the outcome that is desired, for example a protein powder company resaerching how much protein is required a day, it would benefit the company for the results to be skewed higher
Yes of course. You read the methods section and from that you can often predict if the paper is industry funded or not! Industry funding arguably causes a bigger issue in what is *not* published than what is.
I wonder who this Martin mentioned at about 8:00 is?
I enjoy very much just to go to the crags, throw myself to my limits and scare myself shitless. I do organize my climbing - systematic training or something like that (the game is challenging yourself over your limits, wherever they are, isn't it?) ... but if I would Dave would be my "shifu" of choice.
Sorry to hear that you're struggling with eczema again
Cost of animal proteins seems like it could make it challenging to get the appropriate amounts. Do you think it's a reasonable trade off to buy mostly cheaper and presumably lower quality meat and eggs? Alternatively one could by an affordable quantity of high quality products and make up the calorie difference elsewhere
Michael Pollan makes the point that people used to spend a much greater portion of their income on food than they do now. I favor that approach: buying local, from farmers who raise livestock in a humane fashion and who you can meet and talk to. It’s more expensive, yes, but I think it’s worth it. I suspect most climbers can afford this if they think about their spending priorities. It’s also, I believe, the ethical way of eating.
Cheaper meat and eggs are not vastly different to expensive counterparts. There's not much of a trade off here.
Thank you both
Diet coke and ketogenic diet. Are they compatible? :)
Yes.
@@climbermacleod thank you Dave, you are the best.
Do you follow Slan Flanagan. I think he has great content too.
Is that a Gibson Les Paul?
To me it looks more like an ESP, it has a belly carve on the back.
Yeh maybe the EC-1000 range. Better choice for sure considering cost of Gibsons.
I’d challenge the statement about gut discomfort being a result of too high fibre intake.
The discomfort is more likely a result of a lack of microbe diversity to process the fibre, not the fibre itself.
Higher intake of grains, legumes, fermented foods and overall fibre is directly associated with longer life expectancy. I know the topic of the video is climbing performance, but what about climbing longevity?
Keto diets run the risk of the mucosal lining of your gut to be digested by your micro biome which may lead to chronic inflammation within your gut, which is all a result of lower fibre intake.
My 2 cents.
Eating meat makes your stomach digest itself? What did prehistoric humans do?
Watching while eating duchess potatos crying because I'm losing the diet battle.
It's a hard battle.
Hello Dave ! I'm real a fan and i would like to understand your vidéo "The ketogenic diet for sport performance". But, i speak french and i need your subtitles. Can you activate the english subtitles on your youtube video?
CZcams won't let me, sorry. I'm not sure why but possibly the video is too long?
What do you think of PEDs in climbing? Surely they are quite common with pros. The rate and intensity at which they're working. PEDs are becoming more and more prevalent in popular culture, not just elite athletes.
Will you do a video on the temporary plant based diet, as you did with the McDonalds diet?
Yeah I will do.
How many cabbages do you need to eat to tick f8a?
Its just way harder to do than do try eating the same exact food ie a macdonald burger.
Plant based implies thousands of different product which may not fit an individual and take times to set so.
I think this must have been the first time that I have heard anyone say that too much fibre in your diet is a bad thing. In general it's said that the "average" diet in Western culture doesn't have enough fibre (average diet most probably being very unhealthy and full of ultra processed foods anyway), and I've also heard that lack of fibre can be an issue in diets high in animal derived foods. Is there any particular reason why fibre would be bad in your opinion?
what fibre did your ancestors eat?
I didn't actually say fibre was necessarily bad. I said *too much* fibre. Too much fibre is bad because humans do not have the gut architecture to digest large amounts of fibre. It interferes with the absorption of other nutrients in the human gut - this can be a good thing if you are eating large volumes of carbohydrate! But not so good if the food is not nutrient dense enough.
fibre usually comes with carbs.... so if you have a high fibre diet, its likely you are also high carbs....
@@alexmacleod9727 what carbs did your ancestors eat? There was no bread, potatoes, rice or pasta. There was no fruit and not really any vegetables either...
In all my research into nutrition (far less than Dave, I'm sure) fibre seems to be the most vague and misunderstood area. To my understanding fibre is an umbrella term for any form of carbohydrate we can't directly digest. Unsurprisingly that quite a wide range of materials. You could for instance increase your fibre by adding sawdust to your meals, but your body will not thank you for it! Far more research needs to be done in this area.
+1 comment for anyone on any diet... alcohol's the # thing that's gonna throw your groove off
Seems slightly odd to compare whole plant foods with animal-based foods, when the obvious comparison would be foods like tofu, TVP, etc, which have a comparable nutrient density.
I'm not really comparing - my comment was on what people typically eat. But those foods you mention do not have a comparable nutrient density to animal foods.
Which nutrients would you say differ substantially? @@climbermacleod
Well, depends on the food but often Iron, zinc, B12, D3, retinol, creatine, carnitine, choline, calcium, long chain n3s and others.
Hmm, I assumed your focus was on macros rather than micros given the emphasis of your video is very clearly on fat, protein, and carbs. In that regard, the macros are broadly comparable with many animal products.
Iron, zinc and calcium are all present in good levels in tofu for example, more than some animal products. B12 and D are easily supplemented; generally recommended to supplement for older people and people with gut issues (B12) or the general UK population (D) anyways. The others I'm not as familiar with, but creatine is again easily supplemented. @@climbermacleod
It's not just the amounts you need to consider. The absorption of zinc and iron from plant foods is rather different from ASFs. But stepping back from the specifics of tofu, there is no need to take all these supplements - just eat proper food.
Watching this eating a burger...💔
The plant based diet is a huge cause of excema. Lots of irritants like soya and modern wheat varieties which have prioritised volume of production over quality.
I cut out wheat, soya and dairy and my excema is loads better. At my age as a result of years of really bad excema my skin is very sensitive and on a very sunny or windy day I still need to apply lots of cream, but day to day I rarely use cream to control my skin
51 year old and been climbing for over 30 years .
Keto for 5 years and now carnivor .
Carnivor makes me feel like I'm 20 again so much more energy more clarity stronger and smashing it in the gym.
Carnivor is the proper human diet we are born in a ketogenic state and we should stay there it's only big business making money off us getting sicker with carbs processed food and vegans that have no idea how the body works .
I think it is generally a bad idea to talk about carbs in an allcompassing sense of a macronutrient as the most benefits you get from "good" carb sources come from the high fibre intake (legumes, beans, vegetables,fruits) which is heavily linked to longevity and all cause mortality reduction. A good resource is "how not to age", Dr michael greger got like 13.000 cited studies in this book
Fibre intake is usually a proxy for consuming less digestible carbs and this is highly likely to account for its morbidity/mortality associations when compared to a standard western diet. There is an alternative strategy; don't eat the carbs at all. Greger wouldn't have that in his book since he is trying to get science to fit an ideology, not the other way round.
What's the TLDR version of vegetarian lifestyles?
Aiden Robert’s is vegetarian so I wouldn’t sweat it
I believe Alex Megos is vegan or at least vegetarian as well, though I'm not 100% sure, so I'd say "probably fine"
ive been plant-based/vegan for 6 years and have never felt or looked better. i cant see going in any other direction at this point
Google says one egg has 155 kcal so 5 would have 775, not 300 kcal :)
No, Google doesn't say that. You need to look at the numbers more closely.
@@climbermacleod ok my bad, it was for 100g, not one egg. Apologies :)
The biggest problem with eating animal diets is the chronic elevation of LDL/ApoB, which is a major risk factor for cardiovascular disease. If you're willing to take that big risk for performance and well-being, that's perfectly fine, but people should be aware of that risk. I'm surprised, that an intelligent and well researched man like you is sidestepping this issue.
I discussed this topic at length in my video on the ketogenic diet. As I say in that video and also my video on McDonalds burgers, LDLc can be manipulated as you wish, within the context of a keto diet.
Since then, new research has come out as well czcams.com/video/ny2JqAgoORo/video.html Also, on keto diets, things like saturated fat intake do not predict changes in LDLc www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fendo.2023.1326768/full
the cholesterol myth was exposed decades ago
@@climbermacleodIf you look at the graphical abstract, you can clearly see how LDLc levels decreased on carbohydrate diet. They ran a regression model of some kind and ofc if you use many variables you can get a result in which saturated fat intake isnt the most significant factors. This is why the study design isnt meant for finding this out. E.g. In this study there was a deleterious effect www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8001988/.
I dont know why we fight on these obvious facts.
If you have normal bmi, are active, normal sugars and low blood pressure, higher ldl doesnt really matter. That doesn't mean that keto diet doesnt increase ldl
I eat predominantly meats. I have seen no "chronic elevation in LDL."
@@climbermacleod Good to know you are following the LMHR research!