It’s the principle of volume matching. When I was dialing in a black powder gun, I found that too much powder would wing shots all over the place. Decreasing powder I learned the perfect load to get it tight and to reduce muzzle flash. When I was building my own airsoft guns (around 2004-2009) I found a principle that is very similar: your cylinder is the charge (powder) and you have to dial everything else to match. Depending on the cylinder size you have to match barrel length and bore diameter and once you do you will be amazed at how it sings. It’s not a big overhaul like springs and motor, it’s tuning what you have to get the most out of it. Maybe airsoft guns have changed in the ten years I’ve been out of it but the principle must remain: match your pressure charge (cylinder size for AEG, gas pressure for HPA) to the rest of your build and ammo type. Continued reading if you’re still with me: The reason for all this is how the expanding “charge” (powder or compressed air) continues to effect the projectile once it leaves the chamber. You want the charge to do its job and then ease up once the BB is no longer under the influence of the bore. Once the BB is out of the bore, any extra charge behind it can slap it around in any direction.
Quality of the bb varies greatly, even with the number of factories being low. The factories produce various qualities for price point reasons. Also another important variable that makes this test not so valid, is the setup was not discussed. Yes, you used the same gun, but to use heavier bbs you need to have the correct hopup rubber/packing/bucking to lift the bbs. Setups for heavier bbs may not be appropriate for lower weight bbs. What was the hopup setup/inner barrel length/base fps? What was the drop of fps? Sandbagging is a good improvement over other videos posted about accuracy, but the gun should be braced to eliminate any human errors to accuracy. Then you don’t even need to worry about sights/scopes/optics in the test. Eliminate all variables that you can. I suggest you try doing the test again with the same bbs. BLS is a brand that seems to make the weights available through your test range, and they are the OEM of the bbs. What I took away from this was that your .2 and .3 were your better quality bbs.
Disagree to a certain point: If you have a certain set-up you have to run (J limits, money, availability of parts, compatibility,...) and you wonder what the weight of a bb will do to your set-up...this is the answer. There is no linear connection of 'the heavier, the better'. When you go heavier, you need to adjust the set-up yes, but that's not the point here. A more powerful engine in a car will make it go faster? Yes, but at some point you will have to adjust the whole set-up so the car can handle the power and to make it actually work...but the question is: what engine does this car need to make it perform optimally. You want to find the bb that fits your build...not the other way round (in this case).
@@anomalyp8584 But my point is that it does not answer the question. There’s just too much variable in using different branded bbs. If you want to show what weight does to a particular setup, then they should be at least the same brand.
@@Mattvogtsr agreed! But probably there are gonna be brands that perform good in one weight class but are shitty in another 😬😬 and so it continues on and on 😂😂
You guys should return to these types of videos. I'd love to see a different weighted BBs tested at a consistent FPS. Plus, you all made way bigger views on your informational somewhat scientific testing videos. Keep producing these it could be a big boost to the channel
Interesting results. Although you have to consider that in an outdoor application with wind and moisture in the air etc. a heavier bb will most certainly maintain its trajectory better than a lighter one.
There's one small beneficial of having tiny extra weight, that's it have extra kinetic punch at slightly longer distances. But the gun is the limiting factor of how much extra weight it can handle.
I feel like .30-.36's is the sweet spot for accuracy for most guns. Any higher you are trading a massive drop in velocity which may actually hurt the overall accuracy. Unless you have a very high FPS rated sniper build which can probably take advantage of heavier bb's but guns like that probably aren't allowed at most public fields. .20's shouldn't be slept on however simply because of the velocity and your shots reaching the target faster
That's where things like r hop s hop flat hop and maple leaf for bucking come in. This be what they do is they provide a bigger point of contact causing more of a backspin to your bb's than just a regular nub and bucking. Anything above a .32 should.be shot out of a gun that has anything i just mentioned. It also increases accuracy. My g&g m14 is hoping .36's and can probably even hop .43's and it shoots 500 fps since where i play, they allow your guns to shoot a little hot compares to everywhere else at about 301-450 has a 25ft med. 300 or less no med.
Great video, Could you please test the different weights with the same joules? that might be super usefull since many fields are changing to the better joule limit rather than speed limits.
For CQB games ( 10-100ft engagement distance) over a .25 is overkill. Outdoor games run the heaviest bbs you can afford and that your hopup will lift. Most $200-$400 AEGs will usually be able to hop atleast .28s to .36s. For simplicity sake I have pretty much settled for .32grams in most of my outdoor guns and .25s in my pistols ancd AEGs shooting under 330fps. Still buy .20s in bulk for testing/chronoing/plinking but always run heavier bbs when I actually skirmish.
I've actually found Bio Shot , Valken Tactical , and Asura BBs to be fairly decent...decent enough that you keep buying them...but you also have to take into consideration if the EBR you used in that test "likes" the brand or weight of BBs you used...also...just a tad more proof that I watch your guys videos incase a bot randomly chooses to comment...that's a nice pen you got on the counter to your right...I dont remember the brand I had but it's a good self defense pen...plus even though mine was less than $10...it still had quality control written all over it based on structural integrity
Because the .20s where more accurate than the .25s but the the. The .30 and .40 bbs I were most accurate I think the brand may have also had an effect. Some brands of bbs are better than others. Smoother polish, better balance, more accurate weight, etc… it also seems like the sniper is set up for indoor play shooting only around 340 fps whereas some outdoor fields allow up to 500 for bolt action snipers. Another 150 fps Would definitely make a difference. Good video.
You said the lighter bbs have air bubbles in them and that affects accuracy due to the center of gravity. I feel like the same is true to the heavy ones with steel cores. Try the biodegradable ones. It's a more dense material that doesn't have the metal.
Good vid. Interesting that the switch to the .43 weight caused a DROP in accuracy/consistency. I use my airsoft for target only, and this is interesting. I just bought a couple of bags of .28,, one of .30 and one of .20. I'll be experimenting for a while. Thanx!
@@jizuus I know but frankly, the fps and accuracy of this rifle didn't seem as good as the presenter made it sound to begin with. 318fps with .20s? That's LOW power.
Maybe try a test where you use all of the same manufacturer but different weights. I don't know if I'm crazy but I feel like some brands fly straighter than others, got a 5,000 jug of g&g .30 this weekend and I feel like there were a lot of random shots that were way out of the norm.
So I’m looking to get an EBR and I want to shoot 32s to 40s with it, maybe add a longer inner barrel for the max range. My question is why jump from 30s to 43s? I feel that the 32s to at least 40s would be decent.
You can't conclude anything from this. Different brands/quality of bbs, every gun will have a sweet spot or a bb weight/brand that it likes. Equipment and upgrades will all affect this.
I think the major flaw in this test was the lack of adjusting hop up for each gram bb. Each bb will loos a significant amount of energy the further they travel and this is especially true for heavier bbs. The point in which each of the bbs trajectory begins to arch down is when they loos effectiveness and predictability. Im just assuming you didnt use hopup because you never mentioned it.
It's been around 5 years since i stopped playing, but as a former bolt action rifle player, I can confirm that there is a huge difference in BB accuracy between manufacturers/brand. It is extremely difficult to find actually accurate heavy BBs, witch is really annoying cus they are meant for snipers, but have the worst accuracy. I tested almost every heavu BBs i could find, and I found only 2 worth using, but the other ones quality dropped and they started to have worse accuracy, so I was only limited to one. I cannot remember for sure anymore witch brand it was, but I think it could have been specna arms. I did my tests by just shooting and looking through scope how they fly, I did it all the way to max range, 30 meter accuracy ment nothing to me, I wanted accuracy as long as the BB can fly straight. All the other brands, except this one, started to fly all kinds of directions at the end, and that was un acceptable to me. I even sold my RealSword SVD cus I couldn't get it to shoot straight no matter how I tried different barrel and hop-up setups, that was before I did the testing with the bolt action rifle I build my self out of vsr-10 with very high end internals . After the testing with way more than 10 different brands and BB weights from .40 to .43, I was sure it was not the SVD that was inaccurate, but the BBs. Before the testing I had no idea there could be an accuracy difference between BBs. I spend around 800-1000€ to build that rifle, and I have to say, that was well spent money, I was more successful with that rifle than I ever was with full auto AEGs, only ICS M1 garand I was more successful cus it didn't only have deacent sniping cabability, it's semi auto ensured I was not too much in a dissadvantage when spotted by AEG guys, that gun was so good that the game eventually got boring with it, hence the reason to make the game more challencing with bolt action rifle. The externals of the rifle were out of real mosin nagant rifle, including the barrel that I had gotten drilled to fit an airsoft innerbarrel inside it. Because of the high quality parts, I only used m140 spring, witch was extremely light and fast to cock and it shot over 170 m/s with that spring. BTW, I found that scopes actually make the playing way more difficult because it takes more time to take aim and shoot with a scope than without, giving the other guy time to shoot you first and not only that, more than once, I had a clear vision through scope, but then the BB hit a branch one or two meters in front of me, that I couldn't see through the scope, cus the scope is just that little bit higher than the barrel. With Iron sights I had never such problems and I never missed a sure shot again, not something I can say while using the scope cause of the reasons above. (The scope was extremely good real hunting scope).
@@anomalyp8584 glad to hear! You mean the details of that built vsr-10 right? Internally it has laylax aeg hop up chamber (link below), steel aeg barrel with inner diameter of 6,03 mm, an ir hop I made from some silicone tubing from ebay, the piece that presses the hop rubber I made out of regular eraser, cut to fit perfectly, took a few tries to get it just right. The cylinder was action army teflon cylinder and the cylinder head came with it, trigger unit was 90° unit, might have been also action army and the piston that came with the trigger unit, it had a thick rubber O ring attached to the piston head that made it nicely silent without other modifications. The spring was uncut m140 that gave it little bit over 3 joules. I used .40 g BB:s cus the heaviest at the time, the .43 g ones were much less accurate, horrible even. Externally it had an original WW1 mosin nagant stock, the frame of the internals was seated directly on it, replacing the parts the original rifle had the bolt and chamber, it was quite easy, just needed some wood removing from the inside of the stock to fit the trigger mechanism, the screw hole behind the bolt handle of vsr 10 fits almost perfectly to the rear end of original mosin nagant trigger guards screw hole, so that's the first attachment point and for the other screw in front of the vsr 10 trigger unit, i tap welded a washer inside the magazine that is attached to the mosin nagant trigger guard, the magazine opens from the bottom and gives access to the washer, the magazine spring can be left in place. Next the outer barrel needs to be cut soon after the hop up unit cus it doesn't fit under the wooden top piece of mosin nagant stock. Lastly I had drilled the original rifle barrel to 9mm so the inner barrel of vsr 10 fits inside it, the outer barrel doesn't need to be long, it can end shortly after it goes under the wooden top piece, some tape around it is enough to secure it in place cus the wooden top piece and the under stock squeezes it in there tight. Lastly I glued the original rear iron sight on top of the vsr 10 outer barrel without the range adjustments, because it was too high with it and the BB:s would shoot way too high, without the range adjustments it was just perfect. The result was very convincing mosin nagant, externally only the bolt and it's frame didn't look like real rifle but the rest did, cus they were original mosin nagant parts. Here the link to hop up unit: www.brillarmory.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1076
@@anomalyp8584 sorry I don't know what is C/B ratio or the weight of it. The brand of the vsr-10 was well if my memory servers me right, but it had none of the well parts in it, only the bolt handle, bolt frame and outer barrel.
I reckon that the lower performance of .43 is absolutely due to velocity. to correct myself, due to energy output. using a calculator, the speed-weight of the .43s indicate that the bb is leaving the muzzle with something south of .65 joules this gives veeery little energy and inertia to resist changes from small changes in the air or whatever. maybe, testing these grouping and weights at 2-3 Joule points, souch as saying 'test .2, 25s, 30s and 43 at 0.1J, 1.5J, and 1.9J and see what's the correlation and optimal joule/fps for any given weight. for this an HPA may be the easiest to use as it may allow a more readily control of the power output
not bad video although when youre going up in BB weight the internals need to be upgraded to account for the extra weight to push the distance. would have been interesting if this gun was a bit upgraded to see what the true results woulda been..
There are two problems with your test: first, it is done indoor, if you go outdoor, the heavier the BB and the more stable it will be in the wind, second to get a significant difference in accuracy with a 0.43g BB you need to do the test with a gun capable of shooting a 0.43g BB at 350+😊FPS, because that same gun will shoot a 0.2g at over 500FPS and they will fly everywhere whereas the 0.43g will have a much better accuracy.
0.28-0.30 for aeg and 0.36-0.4 for spring rifles(4t or 2t) and only bls ( forest) i dont play on cqb but cqb 0.2-0.25 ( ur limits 450fps for auto dmr 550 single only and 600fps for springs rifles(4t-2t) cqb non auto 350 fps)
sorry to disapoit you: im pretty new but what my Testing Broght Up. - Higher Weicht means slower Velocity. equals lower drag and means more Range. highest about 1,5 Joul. (80-90m) did i get. - You can Drill in the system. try Out some BBS because your Cylinder to Piston Ratio makes the konsistenzy
Technically this is not a fair test unless you use multiple bb vendors for each weight type. Also, the point of heavier weights is to prevent wind interference so an indoor test is pointless?
Can I ask why the fps is so low I mean on average outdoor fields allow 1.5-1.7 joules or 400-420fps or 400-450. At that power scale shooting .20-.43 will make a significant difference as 20 replica is at a lower FPS and it shoots something light it's most likely going to be more consistent whereas if the gun is cronoing at 340 FPS with 0.2's and you decide to put 0.43 it's going to struggle on shooting it so you're probably going to get not as accurate grouping. When you're using something that shoots heavier than if I run 0.2's they just fly to space I can't accurately keep them on the Target or as if I run something in between that and a super heavy then I'm getting synergy. You know for CQB might go to is 0.28 and for you know Bush ball I run 0.36 and that seems to be my most affordable option. If you start going up they're just that much more expensive and for semi-auto gun it's not needed.
Has anybody taken a sniper at 2.8 joules and tested using lighter than .40 grams with them? I got an ssg10 coming, and im thinking of trying .30s which i use for my gbb pistol and aeg m4. I got 43s, 46s already, but was just wondering if anyone has went south of 40 and liked it?
Well….with real guns you can have different weight bullets will obviously change the precision of a rifle, also same weighted bullets with different manufacturers will change the precision, then there is that individual gun itself will “like” a certain bullet / weight. Thats why when you get serious you start hand loading bullets. But to have a real world demonstration you should have all the same brand of bb’s at different weights but again you are finding the weight / brand of bb that gun “likes”…..if its anything like real guns. I shoot long distance with real guns and have just got into airsoft
The results would be more accurate if you swap springs to achieve similar fps with the bbs. It’s inconsistent because your changing the weight of the bb but not the force at witch the bb is being launched
I have a gun which the specs on evike said it was 400 FPS. I use 23 grams. I have a couple questions 1: Do I need to get my gun's spring replaced if it goes above 350? 2: Do I need to use 25 grams in the arena?
Every arena is going to have different rules, you’ll have to check with your field specifically. Usually there will be a certain speed threshold you have to prove you’re under at the beginning of the day shooting a specific weight bb, at my field its 400fps with a .2gram bb, but after that test they don’t care if you change what weight bb you use, as long as you don’t change internal parts to make it more powerful
Your énergy out out is too low for 0.43imo. 0.4+ is king when your energy is 1.7-2.0 J with a nice precision canon and buckling that can hop the BB. 0.40 shine also for ange above 50m
You're supposed to take your front flat hop and maple laf buckings in the consideration. This isnt to knock the g&g green buckings. Thats one of the best buckings. Its up there with kytac, vfc, tm, and prometheus purples. Not only does it in crease accuracy, it allows you to hop heavier bb's. Every gum that shoots above a .32 should be flat hopped/ r hopped (use a Prometheus purple for a better airseal for r hop. Another thing is this test should be done outdoors. Heavier bb's arent effected as much by wind and air resistance.
I respectfully disagree about being outside. While I agree the advantage of the the heavier bbs in wind, it’s problem when doing accuracy tests. It’s important to eliminate all variables possible. Since you can’t control the wind consistency, it throws off the results. YOu can’t tell if the wind affected the results.
Your also using a gun that is under hopping because of fps. Like 200 fps bb no kidding why it's accuracy is crap. Like If those 43 were going at atleast 300 it would be way better
what a ridiculous test and skewed experiment if I've ever seen one. First of all, you keep changing the FPS and my rifle shoots up to 1300 FPS and my friend just picked up one that is 1600.
It’s the principle of volume matching.
When I was dialing in a black powder gun, I found that too much powder would wing shots all over the place. Decreasing powder I learned the perfect load to get it tight and to reduce muzzle flash.
When I was building my own airsoft guns (around 2004-2009) I found a principle that is very similar: your cylinder is the charge (powder) and you have to dial everything else to match. Depending on the cylinder size you have to match barrel length and bore diameter and once you do you will be amazed at how it sings. It’s not a big overhaul like springs and motor, it’s tuning what you have to get the most out of it.
Maybe airsoft guns have changed in the ten years I’ve been out of it but the principle must remain: match your pressure charge (cylinder size for AEG, gas pressure for HPA) to the rest of your build and ammo type.
Continued reading if you’re still with me:
The reason for all this is how the expanding “charge” (powder or compressed air) continues to effect the projectile once it leaves the chamber. You want the charge to do its job and then ease up once the BB is no longer under the influence of the bore. Once the BB is out of the bore, any extra charge behind it can slap it around in any direction.
Quality of the bb varies greatly, even with the number of factories being low. The factories produce various qualities for price point reasons. Also another important variable that makes this test not so valid, is the setup was not discussed. Yes, you used the same gun, but to use heavier bbs you need to have the correct hopup rubber/packing/bucking to lift the bbs. Setups for heavier bbs may not be appropriate for lower weight bbs. What was the hopup setup/inner barrel length/base fps? What was the drop of fps? Sandbagging is a good improvement over other videos posted about accuracy, but the gun should be braced to eliminate any human errors to accuracy. Then you don’t even need to worry about sights/scopes/optics in the test. Eliminate all variables that you can. I suggest you try doing the test again with the same bbs. BLS is a brand that seems to make the weights available through your test range, and they are the OEM of the bbs. What I took away from this was that your .2 and .3 were your better quality bbs.
Ah yes this makes sense. Weight and BB quality are the key factors.
Disagree to a certain point: If you have a certain set-up you have to run (J limits, money, availability of parts, compatibility,...) and you wonder what the weight of a bb will do to your set-up...this is the answer. There is no linear connection of 'the heavier, the better'.
When you go heavier, you need to adjust the set-up yes, but that's not the point here.
A more powerful engine in a car will make it go faster? Yes, but at some point you will have to adjust the whole set-up so the car can handle the power and to make it actually work...but the question is: what engine does this car need to make it perform optimally.
You want to find the bb that fits your build...not the other way round (in this case).
@@anomalyp8584 But my point is that it does not answer the question. There’s just too much variable in using different branded bbs. If you want to show what weight does to a particular setup, then they should be at least the same brand.
@@Mattvogtsr agreed! But probably there are gonna be brands that perform good in one weight class but are shitty in another 😬😬 and so it continues on and on 😂😂
I missed your videos. Glad to see you back.
The return of the king
Out of all the intros this one is the best. please keep using it
You guys should return to these types of videos. I'd love to see a different weighted BBs tested at a consistent FPS. Plus, you all made way bigger views on your informational somewhat scientific testing videos. Keep producing these it could be a big boost to the channel
I wanna see the return of the king playing airsoft with gbb guns
Been a while ehh... love the video sir
Interesting results. Although you have to consider that in an outdoor application with wind and moisture in the air etc. a heavier bb will most certainly maintain its trajectory better than a lighter one.
A new video! Right on.
You also used different brands which can make a huge difference, if it was all the same brand it would probably give different results
There's one small beneficial of having tiny extra weight, that's it have extra kinetic punch at slightly longer distances. But the gun is the limiting factor of how much extra weight it can handle.
Good test!
he's back, lets gooo
I feel like .30-.36's is the sweet spot for accuracy for most guns. Any higher you are trading a massive drop in velocity which may actually hurt the overall accuracy. Unless you have a very high FPS rated sniper build which can probably take advantage of heavier bb's but guns like that probably aren't allowed at most public fields. .20's shouldn't be slept on however simply because of the velocity and your shots reaching the target faster
except for gbbrs and spring snipers, they're able to heavily joule creep and i have no issue hobbing and lobbing .50s out of my gas svd
That's where things like r hop s hop flat hop and maple leaf for bucking come in. This be what they do is they provide a bigger point of contact causing more of a backspin to your bb's than just a regular nub and bucking. Anything above a .32 should.be shot out of a gun that has anything i just mentioned. It also increases accuracy. My g&g m14 is hoping .36's and can probably even hop .43's and it shoots 500 fps since where i play, they allow your guns to shoot a little hot compares to everywhere else at about 301-450 has a 25ft med. 300 or less no med.
what rubber degree you using in .30?
@kevin pierson almost no fields allow 700fps. and anything over 500 should be using .42 or above
@kevin pierson ? Shooting.32 outta my m4 rep.
Yee I’m shooting .36s with a gen 2 lancer tactical has about 1500 worth of upgrades including the price of the gun and that thing is a straight beam
Great video! Does this apply to gas or CO2 powered hand guns as well?
Great video, Could you please test the different weights with the same joules? that might be super usefull since many fields are changing to the better joule limit rather than speed limits.
For CQB games ( 10-100ft engagement distance) over a .25 is overkill. Outdoor games run the heaviest bbs you can afford and that your hopup will lift. Most $200-$400 AEGs will usually be able to hop atleast .28s to .36s. For simplicity sake I have pretty much settled for .32grams in most of my outdoor guns and .25s in my pistols ancd AEGs shooting under 330fps. Still buy .20s in bulk for testing/chronoing/plinking but always run heavier bbs when I actually skirmish.
I've actually found Bio Shot , Valken Tactical , and Asura BBs to be fairly decent...decent enough that you keep buying them...but you also have to take into consideration if the EBR you used in that test "likes" the brand or weight of BBs you used...also...just a tad more proof that I watch your guys videos incase a bot randomly chooses to comment...that's a nice pen you got on the counter to your right...I dont remember the brand I had but it's a good self defense pen...plus even though mine was less than $10...it still had quality control written all over it based on structural integrity
The main advantage of heavier bbs is that they're less affected by the wind.
Because the .20s where more accurate than the .25s but the the. The .30 and .40 bbs I were most accurate I think the brand may have also had an effect. Some brands of bbs are better than others. Smoother polish, better balance, more accurate weight, etc… it also seems like the sniper is set up for indoor play shooting only around 340 fps whereas some outdoor fields allow up to 500 for bolt action snipers. Another 150 fps Would definitely make a difference. Good video.
You said the lighter bbs have air bubbles in them and that affects accuracy due to the center of gravity. I feel like the same is true to the heavy ones with steel cores. Try the biodegradable ones. It's a more dense material that doesn't have the metal.
Well explained 👍
Barrel lenght to cylinder volumen ratio is a important thing...
Good vid. Interesting that the switch to the .43 weight caused a DROP in accuracy/consistency. I use my airsoft for target only, and this is interesting. I just bought a couple of bags of .28,, one of .30 and one of .20. I'll be experimenting for a while. Thanx!
But look, velocity droped to 180-190, thats extremly low, if the power would be bringed up, the resoults might be much better
@@jizuus I know but frankly, the fps and accuracy of this rifle didn't seem as good as the presenter made it sound to begin with. 318fps with .20s? That's LOW power.
the accuracy of the different heavy bb, depend also the lenght of the barrel, its named joule creep
And when we ran heavy sniper bbs out of our 300fps AEG, the grouping actuality got worse, very surprising...
Maybe try a test where you use all of the same manufacturer but different weights. I don't know if I'm crazy but I feel like some brands fly straighter than others, got a 5,000 jug of g&g .30 this weekend and I feel like there were a lot of random shots that were way out of the norm.
So I’m looking to get an EBR and I want to shoot 32s to 40s with it, maybe add a longer inner barrel for the max range. My question is why jump from 30s to 43s? I feel that the 32s to at least 40s would be decent.
You can't conclude anything from this. Different brands/quality of bbs, every gun will have a sweet spot or a bb weight/brand that it likes. Equipment and upgrades will all affect this.
I think the major flaw in this test was the lack of adjusting hop up for each gram bb. Each bb will loos a significant amount of energy the further they travel and this is especially true for heavier bbs. The point in which each of the bbs trajectory begins to arch down is when they loos effectiveness and predictability. Im just assuming you didnt use hopup because you never mentioned it.
did you adjust the hopup per sidderent weight?
It's been around 5 years since i stopped playing, but as a former bolt action rifle player, I can confirm that there is a huge difference in BB accuracy between manufacturers/brand. It is extremely difficult to find actually accurate heavy BBs, witch is really annoying cus they are meant for snipers, but have the worst accuracy. I tested almost every heavu BBs i could find, and I found only 2 worth using, but the other ones quality dropped and they started to have worse accuracy, so I was only limited to one. I cannot remember for sure anymore witch brand it was, but I think it could have been specna arms.
I did my tests by just shooting and looking through scope how they fly, I did it all the way to max range, 30 meter accuracy ment nothing to me, I wanted accuracy as long as the BB can fly straight. All the other brands, except this one, started to fly all kinds of directions at the end, and that was un acceptable to me. I even sold my RealSword SVD cus I couldn't get it to shoot straight no matter how I tried different barrel and hop-up setups, that was before I did the testing with the bolt action rifle I build my self out of vsr-10 with very high end internals .
After the testing with way more than 10 different brands and BB weights from .40 to .43, I was sure it was not the SVD that was inaccurate, but the BBs. Before the testing I had no idea there could be an accuracy difference between BBs.
I spend around 800-1000€ to build that rifle, and I have to say, that was well spent money, I was more successful with that rifle than I ever was with full auto AEGs, only ICS M1 garand I was more successful cus it didn't only have deacent sniping cabability, it's semi auto ensured I was not too much in a dissadvantage when spotted by AEG guys, that gun was so good that the game eventually got boring with it, hence the reason to make the game more challencing with bolt action rifle. The externals of the rifle were out of real mosin nagant rifle, including the barrel that I had gotten drilled to fit an airsoft innerbarrel inside it. Because of the high quality parts, I only used m140 spring, witch was extremely light and fast to cock and it shot over 170 m/s with that spring.
BTW, I found that scopes actually make the playing way more difficult because it takes more time to take aim and shoot with a scope than without, giving the other guy time to shoot you first and not only that, more than once, I had a clear vision through scope, but then the BB hit a branch one or two meters in front of me, that I couldn't see through the scope, cus the scope is just that little bit higher than the barrel. With Iron sights I had never such problems and I never missed a sure shot again, not something I can say while using the scope cause of the reasons above. (The scope was extremely good real hunting scope).
VERY very interesting. I'm really curious to the DETAILS of you set-up (weight, brand, hop, barrel, C/B ratio, Joules,...)
@@anomalyp8584 glad to hear! You mean the details of that built vsr-10 right?
Internally it has laylax aeg hop up chamber (link below), steel aeg barrel with inner diameter of 6,03 mm, an ir hop I made from some silicone tubing from ebay, the piece that presses the hop rubber I made out of regular eraser, cut to fit perfectly, took a few tries to get it just right. The cylinder was action army teflon cylinder and the cylinder head came with it, trigger unit was 90° unit, might have been also action army and the piston that came with the trigger unit, it had a thick rubber O ring attached to the piston head that made it nicely silent without other modifications. The spring was uncut m140 that gave it little bit over 3 joules. I used .40 g BB:s cus the heaviest at the time, the .43 g ones were much less accurate, horrible even.
Externally it had an original WW1 mosin nagant stock, the frame of the internals was seated directly on it, replacing the parts the original rifle had the bolt and chamber, it was quite easy, just needed some wood removing from the inside of the stock to fit the trigger mechanism, the screw hole behind the bolt handle of vsr 10 fits almost perfectly to the rear end of original mosin nagant trigger guards screw hole, so that's the first attachment point and for the other screw in front of the vsr 10 trigger unit, i tap welded a washer inside the magazine that is attached to the mosin nagant trigger guard, the magazine opens from the bottom and gives access to the washer, the magazine spring can be left in place. Next the outer barrel needs to be cut soon after the hop up unit cus it doesn't fit under the wooden top piece of mosin nagant stock. Lastly I had drilled the original rifle barrel to 9mm so the inner barrel of vsr 10 fits inside it, the outer barrel doesn't need to be long, it can end shortly after it goes under the wooden top piece, some tape around it is enough to secure it in place cus the wooden top piece and the under stock squeezes it in there tight. Lastly I glued the original rear iron sight on top of the vsr 10 outer barrel without the range adjustments, because it was too high with it and the BB:s would shoot way too high, without the range adjustments it was just perfect.
The result was very convincing mosin nagant, externally only the bolt and it's frame didn't look like real rifle but the rest did, cus they were original mosin nagant parts.
Here the link to hop up unit:
www.brillarmory.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1076
@@anomalyp8584 sorry I don't know what is C/B ratio or the weight of it. The brand of the vsr-10 was well if my memory servers me right, but it had none of the well parts in it, only the bolt handle, bolt frame and outer barrel.
I reckon that the lower performance of .43 is absolutely due to velocity. to correct myself, due to energy output.
using a calculator, the speed-weight of the .43s indicate that the bb is leaving the muzzle with something south of .65 joules
this gives veeery little energy and inertia to resist changes from small changes in the air or whatever.
maybe, testing these grouping and weights at 2-3 Joule points, souch as saying 'test .2, 25s, 30s and 43 at 0.1J, 1.5J, and 1.9J and see what's the correlation and optimal joule/fps for any given weight.
for this an HPA may be the easiest to use as it may allow a more readily control of the power output
good info
not bad video although when youre going up in BB weight the internals need to be upgraded to account for the extra weight to push the distance. would have been interesting if this gun was a bit upgraded to see what the true results woulda been..
There are two problems with your test: first, it is done indoor, if you go outdoor, the heavier the BB and the more stable it will be in the wind, second to get a significant difference in accuracy with a 0.43g BB you need to do the test with a gun capable of shooting a 0.43g BB at 350+😊FPS, because that same gun will shoot a 0.2g at over 500FPS and they will fly everywhere whereas the 0.43g will have a much better accuracy.
More fps and range for snipers require heavier bbs if you want to be consisted. Would be nice to test that.
Could the hop take the bigger weight bb's?
Obviously not all guns can shoot any weight
0.28-0.30 for aeg and 0.36-0.4 for spring rifles(4t or 2t) and only bls ( forest) i dont play on cqb but cqb 0.2-0.25 ( ur limits 450fps for auto dmr 550 single only and 600fps for springs rifles(4t-2t) cqb non auto 350 fps)
I'm assuming the steel in the core isn't consistently placed. Same reason armour piercing ammo in real firearms is typicall less accurate.
I was shooting the .43 gram that you showed this weekend and God they were bad the .30 performed much better.
To be honest, is there a conclusion?
sorry to disapoit you:
im pretty new but what my Testing Broght Up.
- Higher Weicht means slower Velocity. equals lower drag and means more Range.
highest about 1,5 Joul. (80-90m) did i get.
- You can Drill in the system. try Out some BBS because your Cylinder to Piston Ratio makes the konsistenzy
Technically this is not a fair test unless you use multiple bb vendors for each weight type. Also, the point of heavier weights is to prevent wind interference so an indoor test is pointless?
Can I ask why the fps is so low I mean on average outdoor fields allow 1.5-1.7 joules or 400-420fps or 400-450. At that power scale shooting .20-.43 will make a significant difference as 20 replica is at a lower FPS and it shoots something light it's most likely going to be more consistent whereas if the gun is cronoing at 340 FPS with 0.2's and you decide to put 0.43 it's going to struggle on shooting it so you're probably going to get not as accurate grouping. When you're using something that shoots heavier than if I run 0.2's they just fly to space I can't accurately keep them on the Target or as if I run something in between that and a super heavy then I'm getting synergy. You know for CQB might go to is 0.28 and for you know Bush ball I run 0.36 and that seems to be my most affordable option. If you start going up they're just that much more expensive and for semi-auto gun it's not needed.
Hey did someone know what happened to this guy ? He’s not uploading videos anymore ?
You are using different brands of bb's, the difference between them can be massive! Next time run the test with one single brand
The 0.25 got worst? Damn.
Heavier = more accurate in the wind :)
you should have use same bb brand
Can someone tell me what's going on with my bb. Every time I aim high, my bbs go low.
I think is the quality of bb a factor
Has anybody taken a sniper at 2.8 joules and tested using lighter than .40 grams with them? I got an ssg10 coming, and im thinking of trying .30s which i use for my gbb pistol and aeg m4. I got 43s, 46s already, but was just wondering if anyone has went south of 40 and liked it?
the fps droped too low, with higher fps 43 could do much better, especially at longer distance
0.2 WAS SHOT @ 1J AND 0.43 @ 0.68 J
What’s the best BB weight for 2.3J limit for UK snipers?
I’m sure you have an answer but For anyone wondering, between .36 and .43
Why not 0.48g or heaviest that can be hopped
@@rdb9936 because there will be 0 performance difference between high grade 0.43s and 0.48s. The only difference will be the price.
@@christophercole7015 shouldn’t 0.48g hold their energy better though as they will have higher momentum for same weight?
Well….with real guns you can have different weight bullets will obviously change the precision of a rifle, also same weighted bullets with different manufacturers will change the precision, then there is that individual gun itself will “like” a certain bullet / weight. Thats why when you get serious you start hand loading bullets. But to have a real world demonstration you should have all the same brand of bb’s at different weights but again you are finding the weight / brand of bb that gun “likes”…..if its anything like real guns. I shoot long distance with real guns and have just got into airsoft
First off shooting a .43 out of a weak gun like that will yield terrible performance. Need about 100fps more for that.
Dude...steel inside?! that's just begging for instability! The smallest deviation from the center and you have a wobbly bb.
"europeans will have to figure that one out"
na the rest of the world will have to figure that one out
4:56 Did this guy literally jus say he could walk across a room faster than something moving 180-190fps?
I do hope that was extreme sarcasm~
Hop-up could have affected your results
Yeah, that should have been adjusted imo in order to get more... "realistic" results.
But this is only 1Joule. Also teat all same brand and types
The results would be more accurate if you swap springs to achieve similar fps with the bbs. It’s inconsistent because your changing the weight of the bb but not the force at witch the bb is being launched
I have a gun which the specs on evike said it was 400 FPS. I use 23 grams. I have a couple questions
1: Do I need to get my gun's spring replaced if it goes above 350?
2: Do I need to use 25 grams in the arena?
Every arena is going to have different rules, you’ll have to check with your field specifically. Usually there will be a certain speed threshold you have to prove you’re under at the beginning of the day shooting a specific weight bb, at my field its 400fps with a .2gram bb, but after that test they don’t care if you change what weight bb you use, as long as you don’t change internal parts to make it more powerful
Your énergy out out is too low for 0.43imo. 0.4+ is king when your energy is 1.7-2.0 J with a nice precision canon and buckling that can hop the BB.
0.40 shine also for ange above 50m
the test you made is not valid cause of the different brand of bbs used.
You're supposed to take your front flat hop and maple laf buckings in the consideration. This isnt to knock the g&g green buckings. Thats one of the best buckings. Its up there with kytac, vfc, tm, and prometheus purples. Not only does it in crease accuracy, it allows you to hop heavier bb's. Every gum that shoots above a .32 should be flat hopped/ r hopped (use a Prometheus purple for a better airseal for r hop. Another thing is this test should be done outdoors. Heavier bb's arent effected as much by wind and air resistance.
I respectfully disagree about being outside. While I agree the advantage of the the heavier bbs in wind, it’s problem when doing accuracy tests. It’s important to eliminate all variables possible. Since you can’t control the wind consistency, it throws off the results. YOu can’t tell if the wind affected the results.
Your also using a gun that is under hopping because of fps. Like 200 fps bb no kidding why it's accuracy is crap. Like If those 43 were going at atleast 300 it would be way better
If they were all from the same manufacturer it would be viable. Im concluding that valken products are trash.
what a ridiculous test and skewed experiment if I've ever seen one. First of all, you keep changing the FPS and my rifle shoots up to 1300 FPS and my friend just picked up one that is 1600.
This is kind of a trash test. You’re using different manufacturers.