Usually it's not the microswitches but the mechanical lever. The original grease becomes hard and prevents the spring-operated lever from pushing on the other microswitch. Use a spray to dissolve away all the old grease and then re-lubricate with something that will not harden over time and in the cold.
I bought the switches from DigiKey in USA... but I did not need them! Like yours they were fine... but the mechanism had locked up from the old dead grease. WD40 freed the mechanism and 3in1 oil lubricated it. I removed the motor and was able to exercise the mechanism through all functions... the motor is there to pull the final door closure in. I put my window bracket opposite what you showed... but it seems to work OK, the windows don't go down all the way anyway. Finally, the door won't pop all the way open using the fob... it seems to hang... but with the handle it opens fine (the handle gives it that last tug to clear the latch) and it closes nicely.
Hey, thanks so much for this video. My base switch reads about 1000ohms in the closed position, whereas the other blue switch reads about zero. I don't have a beeping multi meter so I'm wondering if my readings mean my base blue switch is faulty. If so, do you have any recommendations on how to replace it?
Usually it's not the microswitches but the mechanical lever. The original grease becomes hard and prevents the spring-operated lever from pushing on the other microswitch. Use a spray to dissolve away all the old grease and then re-lubricate with something that will not harden over time and in the cold.
I bought the switches from DigiKey in USA... but I did not need them! Like yours they were fine... but the mechanism had locked up from the old dead grease. WD40 freed the mechanism and 3in1 oil lubricated it. I removed the motor and was able to exercise the mechanism through all functions... the motor is there to pull the final door closure in. I put my window bracket opposite what you showed... but it seems to work OK, the windows don't go down all the way anyway. Finally, the door won't pop all the way open using the fob... it seems to hang... but with the handle it opens fine (the handle gives it that last tug to clear the latch) and it closes nicely.
Ok thank you i try doing it myself following your steps
My Honda says left power sliding door base position switch. Do you know the part number or numbers I need to get?
Hey, thanks so much for this video. My base switch reads about 1000ohms in the closed position, whereas the other blue switch reads about zero. I don't have a beeping multi meter so I'm wondering if my readings mean my base blue switch is faulty. If so, do you have any recommendations on how to replace it?
Where are you located so you can fix my left slide door
Ok so when the slide door light is on, on my dashboard i can follow your video and fix the issue without replacing the whole latch assembly