Good point, maybe I’ll replace the rear roller arms at the top. They seemed fine but other than replacing I haven’t noticed any adjustments. I replaced the centre rollers connected to the cables. I sent you another reply because I wasn’t seeing the whole reply until I opened it here
I believe he confused everyone where he explains where the microswitch is set at normally open or normally closed position. The two wires on the microswitch should be on the normally closed terminals, which will give you continuity if it is not pressed down. Once the microswitch is pressed down, the switch will open up and not give you anymore continuity. Make sure your microswitch has the wires on the normally closed terminals and you should be good.
What's the part number you bought on eBay ? Also you ever have an issue with sliding door not being able to open and must be assisted a bit by reining on the handle to get the door pull out on the back then it opens ? Opens once you get it from the closed position of the closure switch ?
Yeah, I had that issue, but you might want to check the rollers on the tracks of the sliding doors sometime the wheelbearing on those rollers went bad and you can't close or open the door. But in this case if you disconnect the battery and you sliding door works once/twice and then it doesn't work anymore, then the problem is the electrical latches. I recommended to replace them both because the other side will fail as well. here is the link to the part, there are no part number. www.ebay.com/itm/224050614618
@@ntcsie9530 I replaced them already. I bought almost all the parts to replace every set of rollers, top,bottom & middle. Only those ones connected to the cable were diminished on driver side. But now I’ve replaced both. Now on the drivers side I think the micro switch is gone. The door lock engages to close, but doesn’t stop or turn off the lock process. You could do a youtube on that by pointing out the issue. More viewers and there’s enough pictures out there to add lib to your existing. But the far door, the door closure works and also starts normally the opening process. But the back end of the door closest to the rear wheel does not initiate enough to get past the opening of the door. The back part won’t clear, it’s like it’s pumping something before the rear of the door can open or clear. Otherwise closing is perfect, opening manually with a strong tub on the door handle. Then door opens fine. ? Just thought I would pass these by you. From a year ago things a bit better like with your CZcams . Thankyou for the post you did. Gave me some insight in my search and yours was a new untouched angle to work on issues
this does not cause the battery to die. that is how you test it. If your sliding door is not working, you disconnect your battery and then reconnect it. the door might work for few times then it stops. if that is the case, your electrical latch is at fault.
I need a video on how to remove and replace the full assembly. It was a struggle getting it out, and I the process some S shaped clip fell off. Now I can't get the unit back I place, as the guide for the window seems to be in the way.
Yeah, that s shape part needs to be removed first after that you need to unplug all the electrical wires and also the plastic clip on the electrical latch. After that you just have to wiggle it out slowly and get it through that small opening since the plastic is flexible enough to get through. You don't have to remove the window motor assembly to remove the electrical latch.
The motor most likely has a micro-switch that has gone bad. Check continuity on it. And make sure you give the gears lots of silicone spray for metal on metal assemblies. Make sure it's good for rubber and won't accumulate dirt and grime. Did those things to mine. Replaced a micro-switch and gave it plenty of silicone spray and now it's good as new 👍
Can anyone assist me here? I did this and it did not work. When I replaced the switch, I notice it did not work but also drain the battery then I went and bought the whole latch assembly and it works fine. Should not have continuity when it presses down. is that right
Yeah, when you push down the lever the continuity will stop, the switch is in the open position as default. When you install it make sure the wires connection are correct. I never had any problem with battery drainage. It works great and it is still working now 😁.
Can someone please help me. I checked the continuity of the blue switch and I have continuity till I press the lever down. The door still won't open automatically.
Drilled through the plastic, this part was not designed for weather resistance, a lot of water spash on it during winter/salt and rainy season. Not properly seal, i got it from radioshock 😁 .
Good point, maybe I’ll replace the rear roller arms at the top.
They seemed fine but other than replacing I haven’t noticed any adjustments.
I replaced the centre rollers connected to the cables.
I sent you another reply because I wasn’t seeing the whole reply until I opened it here
I have the same problem thanks for your video help
I believe he confused everyone where he explains where the microswitch is set at normally open or normally closed position. The two wires on the microswitch should be on the normally closed terminals, which will give you continuity if it is not pressed down. Once the microswitch is pressed down, the switch will open up and not give you anymore continuity. Make sure your microswitch has the wires on the normally closed terminals and you should be good.
What's the part number you bought on eBay ? Also you ever have an issue with sliding door not being able to open and must be assisted a bit by reining on the handle to get the door pull out on the back then it opens ? Opens once you get it from the closed position of the closure switch ?
Yeah, I had that issue, but you might want to check the rollers on the tracks of the sliding doors sometime the wheelbearing on those rollers went bad and you can't close or open the door. But in this case if you disconnect the battery and you sliding door works once/twice and then it doesn't work anymore, then the problem is the electrical latches. I recommended to replace them both because the other side will fail as well. here is the link to the part, there are no part number. www.ebay.com/itm/224050614618
@@ntcsie9530 I replaced them already.
I bought almost all the parts to replace every set of rollers, top,bottom & middle. Only those ones connected to the cable were diminished on driver side. But now I’ve replaced both.
Now on the drivers side I think the micro switch is gone. The door lock engages to close, but doesn’t stop or turn off the lock process. You could do a youtube on that by pointing out the issue. More viewers and there’s enough pictures out there to add lib to your existing.
But the far door, the door closure works and also starts normally the opening process. But the back end of the door closest to the rear wheel does not initiate enough to get past the opening of the door. The back part won’t clear, it’s like it’s pumping something before the rear of the door can open or clear. Otherwise closing is perfect, opening manually with a strong tub on the door handle. Then door opens fine. ?
Just thought I would pass these by you. From a year ago things a bit better like with your CZcams .
Thankyou for the post you did. Gave me some insight in my search and yours was a new untouched angle to work on issues
the short cut to ebay does not work anymore, could you specify the part number? i have the same problem on my 2005 odyssey, thank you
here is the link www.ebay.com/itm/223779332046
Is this because the latch is causing the battery to die? How would I know if mine is good or not?
this does not cause the battery to die. that is how you test it. If your sliding door is not working, you disconnect your battery and then reconnect it. the door might work for few times then it stops. if that is the case, your electrical latch is at fault.
I need a video on how to remove and replace the full assembly. It was a struggle getting it out, and I the process some S shaped clip fell off. Now I can't get the unit back I place, as the guide for the window seems to be in the way.
Yeah, that s shape part needs to be removed first after that you need to unplug all the electrical wires and also the plastic clip on the electrical latch. After that you just have to wiggle it out slowly and get it through that small opening since the plastic is flexible enough to get through. You don't have to remove the window motor assembly to remove the electrical latch.
Hopefully this isn't too late and will help. The guy shows how he got out the motor and where the "s-clip" is located.
czcams.com/video/avOzGyKAC20/video.html
@@DevJ7381 yes I eventually figured it out. Didn't get it working, but at least I have an idea what to do. Thanks for the link.
The motor most likely has a micro-switch that has gone bad. Check continuity on it. And make sure you give the gears lots of silicone spray for metal on metal assemblies. Make sure it's good for rubber and won't accumulate dirt and grime. Did those things to mine. Replaced a micro-switch and gave it plenty of silicone spray and now it's good as new 👍
Great fix but $60 for a micro switch?
Or 800$ honda dealership fix w parts u don't need
60.00 for a 2 dollar microswitch and I don't show how to remove or reinstall....thats pretty much like saying "see how I did that"
Micro switch Junk yard 2 or 3 dollars
Can anyone assist me here? I did this and it did not work. When I replaced the switch, I notice it did not work but also drain the battery then I went and bought the whole latch assembly and it works fine. Should not have continuity when it presses down. is that right
Yeah, when you push down the lever the continuity will stop, the switch is in the open position as default. When you install it make sure the wires connection are correct. I never had any problem with battery drainage. It works great and it is still working now 😁.
So the switch is normally closed because the one that bought is the reverse.
@@wazirkhan1807 the switch is NC, when push the lever the switch will open and break the electric circuit.
Can someone please help me. I checked the continuity of the blue switch and I have continuity till I press the lever down. The door still won't open automatically.
If you had to drill a hole in it you had the WRONG switch, that's probably why it lasted ONLY 6 months.
Drilled through the plastic, this part was not designed for weather resistance, a lot of water spash on it during winter/salt and rainy season. Not properly seal, i got it from radioshock 😁 .