Center Fin Box Template and Installation - Surfboard Glassing [Part 3 of 7]
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- Making a center fin router jig template and installing a surfboard center fin box. Made the template from a piece of plywood, non-slip rubber shelf liner and hot glue. The fin channel was routed with 3 passes in progressing depths. The fin box was installed with polyester laminating resin, white resin pigment and cabosil. I used a 2" 40 grit sanding pad to grind down the box lips followed by 150 grit sandpaper. Fin box is 10.5". Surfboard dimensions are 6' x 20.5 x 2.5. I've only glassed a handful of boards and am not an expert but this glassing process works for me.
Additional videos within this playlist:
-Part 1: Resin Tint Lamination with Cut Laps • Resin Tint Lamination ...
-Part 2: Hot Coat and Sanding • Hot Coat and Sanding -...
-Part 3: Center Fin Box Template and Installation • Center Fin Box Templat...
-Part 4: Leash Plug Installation • Leash Plug Installatio...
-Part 5: Resin Pin Lines • Resin Pin Lines - Surf...
-Part 6: Gloss Coat • Gloss Coat - Surfboard...
-Part 7: Polishing • Wet Sanding & Polishin...
-All Parts Start To Finish • Surfboard Glassing [Sh...
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I love surfing, building with my hands and making videos. Bendheim Boards is my outlet to fuel these passions. I'm self-taught and am not an expert, but these videos show the process that works for me. Follow along for new videos every month!
Thank you , Exactly what i needed, awesome video technique , getting ready to start surfing at 57, soon as i get a fin in.
Awesome man! Hope I’m motivated like that later in life!
I'm watching your video, before sleeping. All videos so awesome!
Thanks glad you are enjoying them! 🤙
Thank you for this. So simple but exactly what I was looking for
Glad you enjoyed it! 🤙
Just a note for anyone thinking of building your own jig/guide for routing, I'd stay away from hot glue, or at least avoid using it on the base of your guide/jig. If you're routing after lamination it doesn't tend to be an issue but if you're routing pre-lam (i.e. futures) the hot glue dries hard and can leave imprints in your shaped blank...
Superglue would probably be good in that scenario.
Thanks Champion👏👏👏👏👏
Great video series. Best out there. Very therapeutic watching a craftsman at work. Any reason why you used white pigment instead of black on the fin box?
Thanks man I appreciate the feedback! No reason, just a common added color for fin boxes but you could do any other color or no color at all. 🤙
Hey dude! awesome video, just wondering... is there any need to put a glass patch around the box area after or is the resin mix sufficient?
Resin and cabosil is sufficient. You could add a patch of fiberglass in the cavity below the box but I’ve always just done resin without issues
Good video
🤙
Hey mate, just discovered your channel. Subscribed str8 away. Love it. 🤙🏻🤙🏻🇦🇺
Thanks man 🤙
Tanner Bendheim I love your video but youre putting in an excessive amount of pigment and cabosil for that small amount of resin. It will work in this case because its going into a cavity, however if you were extending a fin base or something requiring structural strength it would feel like rubber on curing and just break off on hardening. Too much of the above weakens the resin. I get that youre working quickly, I've done the same
Yeah I just eyeball my ratios for fin boxes and leash plugs. Laminations, hot coats and gloss coats are where I use exact measurements. 🤙
If you’re putting the box, and the hoat coat is not really leveled at that fin box place, then your box is not gonna be leveled either right? How can you make sure it’s 100% leveled? Sorry I’m asking the question again cause I have some doubts ^^
Thanks for the answer!
If the board isn’t level then you are correct that the fin box might be a little off. If you are using a Bahne box like this one, you can remove the plastic tab in the middle and insert your fin so you can line it up during the install. You could put a angle finder, 90 degree ruler or a level up to it and then wrap tape from the fin to the rails to hold it in place. Honestly, even if it’s a little off, you’ll probably never even notice it in the water so don’t let it worry you. I’m sure some of my fins aren’t 100% accurate to the correct angle but they all feel great in the water.
@@BendheimBoards thanks a lot man! Really useful and reassuring. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Fuck yes! Thank you so much man for taking the time I love your videos
You bet, thanks man!
Why do you install the finboxes after glassing? I have only seen it done before glassing. Does it make a difference which type of fin box you use?
This specific center fin box is made to be installed after the hot coat because it has small tabs that keep it level but doesn't allow it to sit flush with the board and needs to be grinded down. You are correct that other fin boxes are installed before lamination including other style center fin boxes. I install my FCS 2 fins before lamination.
Thanks for the video. When dropping the router and making the first plunge, does the router make a clean cut through the glass? I want to remove an fcs small fin box and install a single fin box on an old beater. Your video seems perfect. Any input is appreciated.
Yes but my first cut is shallow. I did 3 passes, each a little deeper so it doesn’t rip the stringer and has a cleaner cut. I’ve never routed out a fin box but I know guys do it all the time for damaged fin boxes that they replace. You can probably find some videos online or search swaylocks forums about it. Best of luck!
@@BendheimBoards Thanks, I appreciate it.
dont remoove the fin boxes just rout the single fin box 7 inches from the tail and keep the option open
Have you ever had them crack? Feels like a lot of pressure on these boxes and only being held by resin with q cell doesn't feel like it is strong enough especially in an impact.
I’ve never had a fin box strip out. If you want to add extra strength you an also put in a layer of fiberglass cloth under the fin box. Some glassers do and some don’t.
@@BendheimBoards ok thanks so was q cell or the chopped cloth powder you added to the mix?
It was cabosil which is similar to q cell. Either would work but cabosil is better for fin boxes and q cell is better for ding repairs.
What is the gist of making the template, make a square, cut out where to route and then route? great videos!
also why does the finbox have those little tabs on it so it doesnt go fully into the board?
The template is your guide so the router can make a clean straight cut. I just drew the outline of my fin box and cut it out with a jig saw to make a simple template as shown in the video. When routing, make sure you do it in progressive depths - around 2 or 3 separate depth cuts.
Exactly, this fin box uses those tabs so it sits flat and then you grind it down. There are others that go in flush - just depends on what kind of fin box you want to install.
@@BendheimBoards Thankyou man really appreciate it
Hey tanner! Just a question! How can you make sure the box is leveled and that the fin is later gonna be aligned with the stringer? Thanks mate!
Sorry, I just saw the answer reading other comments 😎 are there other type of us box that are easier to install??
I've only worked with Bahne and FCS 2 fin boxes so I can't say whether other fin boxes are easier with my limited experience. I'd say its best to just pick which type of fin you want on your board and then learn how that fin system is installed. I'm sure they all have their pros and cons. Hope that helps a little.
Do you put in the fin boxes and leash plugs after the hot coat? Then gloss over everything after?
Yes exactly. Except when I'm doing FCS 2 fin plugs, I install them before lamination, although you can still install them after the hot coat and some do so. But center fin boxes and leash plugs I do after the hot coat and then gloss coat over them.
Tanner Bendheim awesome thank you!
Such artistic,precise and talented
what if i dont have the white glue thing should i use some super glue or hot glue gun? and where do you buy them
It’s resin with some cabosil to thicken it and white pigment color. Regular glue won’t work, get some resin online here: greenlightsurfsupply.com/tbendheim
Hi mate, whats the thickness of the plywood you were using? cheers!
3/4” for this one 🤙
what mixture are you using to install the fin box? thanks
Check out the video description 🤙
What router bits are you using exactly? Thanks :)
Here is the link on Amazon for the bits I used: Yakamoz Set of 3 Pieces 1/4 Inch Shank Flush Trim Pattern Template Router Bit Set Wood Top Bearing Milling Cutter Tool www.amazon.com/dp/B076JCQDWJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fmttFbPF49ETC
Thanks for this! Can you post a link to whatever router bits you used?
It’s the center fin router but on Greenlight’s website. Checkout the website in the video description.
What do you use to cut the fin box?
Makita router
Did you glass over it the finbox?
No this type of fin box gets installed after lamination and hot coat. I did do a gloss coat after this fin box was installed. Other style fin boxes can get installed before lamination though.
Thank you! I recently did a fin box conversion from old thruster to the Bahne/Fins Unlimited single fin and am trying to make sure the box will hold strong. Your videos are awesome & super useful by the way - thank you for making them and sharing!
If your worried about it you can also put a piece of fiberglass in the hole with the fin box over it to push it down in with the resin. Just let the fiberglass ends hang out which you can cut off after it dries and then sand down. My method and this other method are both used.
@@BendheimBoards Thanks! I had already installed it so I tried glassing it over, not sure if that will actually add any strength to it though. Looking forward to properly shaping a board next time :)
What about eye protection?
Look closer, I’m wearing it 🤓