Injector Removal T1N Sprinter
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- čas přidán 2. 06. 2023
- In this video I talk about the common ways to remove injectors and try a new method that I'll say, "works".
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Great video! My UK T1n failed an emissions test and so this really helps to give an idea of the budget and effort to remove and refurbish/replace the fuel injectors if necessary; does indeed seem like a big freekin job if they dont pop out the easy way.
Thank you for showing the time, energy and thought that goes into engine repair! I love my 06 T1N. I did the injectors and thankfully didn't have a problem. Plan to keep, so hopefully I won't have a problem next time! ;)
Good video. I like that you weren't sarcastic about the Chinese translation. Very professional and polite.
Slow & steady wins the race. Thanks for sharing Brother. 👍
@12:00 Heat really is your friend. As is acetone* (just don't breathe it! ) I use an old kettle to boil water / coolant mix and pour it over the injector gallery, with the drains closed. Get the head right up to 90 Celsius, plus. Once it's hot, get some brake clean or any kind of acetone carrier and drown the base of the hole (stand back, safety gear on). the cooling action of the hydrocarbons and propellant (or raw liquid) will capillary suck the fluid around the injector body, turning the carbon to rubber. On next (subsequent) reheat, the rubber releases and the injector wiggles loose. mainly...
Great information. Regarding the induction heating. I would think by heating the injector, it will expand and be harder to remove. Maybe heat to break the hold, let it cool they try to remove.
Indeed, but get at it before the carbon cools completely. We aren't trying* to employ the expansion of metals here, it just happens anyhow. All we are trying to do is heat the carbon crust between the injector and head to soften it.
Thank you for the video. Very good video for us to see what may or may not be worth doing. In hindsight with the engine out it seems a pneumatic puller or fitting some long handles on that slide weight would be the way to go but...easy for me to say sitting on the couch
True, but my intent was to show how we can do this at home. Most of us can't remove the engine, though it makes it a lot easier to show on camera what is going on. I wanted to use tools and methods we can use wit engine still in the van.
I wonder if fashioning a bit of plywood or metal handle that went under the weight to pull up with would help. It would make for a better grip and keep your fingers clear of the pinch point. A fancy version could even use some bicycle handle grips. Good work getting it out!
It's all about the winning! I was in the gym while watching this..I was thinking why not use a 25 lb weight in front of the slide hammer. It might work great!
I also considered a bigger weight.
@@FloridaVanMan A dead blow type of set up would work great I'm sure if a guy could figure out a way. Sometimes called a no bounce by some. A hammer filled with sand for those who don't know. If the company was to make that weight with sand inside it would be a solid hit. I always have these million dollar ideas & next year somebody invents them. 😂 Great job.👍
yikes. A job best left to those like you who know what they’re doing. Good video. Very educational. Thanks!
Coefficient of expansion of aluminum is higher than steel, thus you need to cool injector to shrink it. great learning experience, nice review of the inductive heating gizmo "HOT SHOT"
When an aluminum block expands more than the steel injector, does the hole get bigger or smaller? Does the expanding aluminum squeeze in the hole or does the expanding perimeter aluminum actually make the hole bigger? In this situation the heat is more about softening the carbon and crust that hold all old injectors in to varying degrees.
@@FloridaVanMan over all the aluminum head grows at a faster rate than the steel injector, In my limited experience cooling the part you want to remove will shrink it ever so to aid in removal. Something as simple as compressed air can do that. As far as the carbon crust your right heat or chemical process is needed.
Great video, would love to know the when (guess you said noticed power loss) and milage on this engine to give some background into when this might need to be done? As you mentioned looks like it had been done once before. Also is there some lube or something that helps when sticking them in for the "next" time?
Absolutely, always coat the injectors, glow plugs and EGR with ceramic anti-seize grease or paste. We show it in videos for all of those repairs.
Have to say it's a pain of a job, and I've only had to do injector no.1 seal so far. Definitely more easier at the front of the engine. For me I let it soak in wd40, and various other penatration fluids over night, and mine cam out in about 15 mins of tugging using the claw tool. Great video though as always.
Awsome tutorial! 👏👏 Please make a tutorial on how to remove a stuck glow plug....my no 1 glow plug spins,but it wont come out.
I tried one like that and failed to get it out. We will try again and make a video the we learn something worth sharing.
Hi there
Having some problems with my 316 2.7L CDI driving back from Spain to uk gearbox when into F them into manual 6th gear though it was the gearbox first then when pulled over on motorway it took about 30 times to restart after it got called. Now same problem. Thought it was the gearbox but it looks like injector leak. Seen your video don't look like a big job. Will you advise it's definitely the injection leacky. Thanks Rus
I don't believe leaking injectors can cause shift trouble as described.
Thanks for your help yesterday on my Q's regarding the ECU for the ABS ~ my engine starts great when it is cold but takes a lot of cranking when it is warm...I have read this may indicate that it needs new injectors. Looks like they are about $400 each...except some chinese ones for $125. Do you have experience with the cheaper ones thx
I don't buy ANY new injectors because they are mostly counterfeit on the market. If the box has no hologram label it is not authentic. Those stickers are being forged now too. I have my injectors tested then rebuilt as needed at a "Bosch Authorized Service Center" like ocaladiesel.com
If you think* your injectors are problematic start with a leak off test of the injectors and leak off test the rail. I suspect you will find the rail fails testing when the engine is fully warmed up. Maybe one injector will reveal itself but either way one part is needed, not 5. If I just saved you $1600 please join our support group at patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
I also suspect the camshaft sensor is actually why it starts slowly when hot. Then tend to do that when failing. I think we have a video or 2 on that as well. Search our page for "leak-off" and "camshaft".
You know what. The way to remove the injector bolts when they snap is the one I want to see. 3 of my bolts SNAPPED BIG time!!! That was a big cost. Mine have been resized to M8 not M6. This is another problem i have and no choice in the matter. Would like to see your input on this.
No problem! I have a video just for broken injector hold down bolts. I share what worked for me, metal drinking straws and plastic ones to build a sleeved bearing. once drilled and tapped to 8mm the shown inserts should side right in so you can use proper stretch bolts again. I can link you to the inserts on eBay. They are worth every penny of the $25 each. If you don't have a plethora of tools, get the $60 kit with drill bit and tap. czcams.com/video/wn0nEmz2YtE/video.html
@@FloridaVanMan thank you very much. I left a comment on that other posted video. I have an issue and maybe screwed it up.
thank you very much kind sir.
The Achilles heel
I missed the "can't use the injector because of the puller socket" information. What part of that process ruins the injector. Just hard to get it back to the original seating?
More than hard* to put back together correctly and impossible to get the compression force back to what it was. When we take the top off for extracting we know immediately that injector will not pass testing at the Bosch centers. Experience teaches us most folks loose the tiny ball or the tiny cylinder that holds the ball. Most folks fail to stack the parts correctly and assembling parts wet with diesel is as difficult as stacking 2 greased bowling balls.
Good job, I have same tools
I'd like to meet you someday. I've been watching your videos since before I started making videos. Maybe you will come to our Winter-Sprinter meetup next year? It's a small gathering of 30-50 Sprinter vans in Central Florida. You are certainly an icon in the community.
@@FloridaVanMando you know where I can get a valve cover for an 04 sprinter 2500? Ours is broken by injector number 5. Haven't been able to find a replacement at all.
@@michaelestus5873 I have 1 or 2 but you'll need to become a member to get it from me at a good price. :) How far are you from Florida? patreon.com/Florida_Van_Man?Link&
i am a pretty good diy type, is there in your opinion better yrs for the sprinter, especially to do service work, and injectors always replaced (new,rebult) after. thanks joe and misty
In North America the 2004-2006 are best years with positive pressure fuel system and more robust OBD (self diagnosis). I suggest having injectors tested any time they are out of the engine, by Bosch Authorized Service Center like OcalaDiesel.com
I also buy injectors from there when needed because I do not trust any new ones are authentic Bosch.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you
Maybe slide this little hammer under a lite weight disk on the puller, (maybe make a stirrup for the hammer)?? ---- then with a small solid pin instead of a nail, hammer the injector out? T-king Pneumatic Hammer -mini Air Nail Gun Steel Nail Palm Hammer
Do you ever swap 647 injectors onto 612 or vice versa? Do they have a different spray profile? will they run on each other's computer / injector driver?
They don't play well at all. I have seen one OM612 running with 647 injectors, but it ran rough and sluggish. We swapped the injectors to OM612 type and the van ran so much better. From my understanding, the OM612 injectors won't fire at all in an OM647 engine.
@@FloridaVanMan interesting. My spidery sense tells me the 647 uses multi pulse where the 612 has a single pulse system. They're both quite primitive still. I got a whole 647 with ecu and all. I'll probably swap the whole thing in and refurb the 612.
you are my van god. i have 03 "using "quart every 500 miles or so. but runs perfectly. i've only put 1k miles on it. think it sat a long time before we bought it. 165k miles on it. thinking of a piston "soak" for possible stuck rings. your opinion would be very fondly welcomed. thanks. tap dance is very bad throws oil out of oil filler hole like crazy.
Are you doing the cap dance correctly? The timing chain is right below the oil fill port, so if you remove the cap it will sling oil! It should!! I do it too.... can't help myself sometimes. But we don't want to remove the cap, just turn it loose so it can hop if it needs to. Have you seen the cap dance test video? If you can find me on Facebook or cypher my email address to send me a video of your cap dance I'll reply with my opinions and advice. If the dance is just a grade C or D you'll want to clean or replace your crankcase ventilation heater. We also have a video for that and when the video was uploaded I had not realized the dramatic result. I had been adding a quart every second fuel fill-up and went right a quart between oil changes. Yes, that is almost a qt every 1,000mi to a just quart every 10,000mi with one simple cleaning. I need to revisit that video! If you can check for vacuum leaks, that would be wise also because creating & maintaining the vacuum is achieved by sucking air into the crankcase. That air is expelled through the breather and the faster/more air moves through the breather... the more oil it brings along.
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DID IT@@FloridaVanMan
Will the claw clear the cabin air filter box removed for cylinders 4 and 5?
Probably not as although the claw will fit the injector, you don't have room to use the hammer
It gets in there but if the injector starts to come up the tool does too, and it will hit quickly. However the cabin air filter and cover can be removed for a little room. The plastic air channel can be removed too, with 5 hard to reach nuts.
You can get all the part for in the injector ...total rebuild all new parts
But can you test and assign IMA codes after installing new parts? I can buy paint and canvas too, but my paintings won't look like Bob Ross's. Sure, paint is more subjective than steel parts, but injector tolerances are ridiculously tight. Simply putting new parts in won't guarantee performance.
Yes the Injector is rebuildable. I have personally done this. What you have failed to say is that you DONT send (RUN) the injector after a rebuild or similar. Why. Where that ball bearing should live. A tiny tiny hole is present under the ball bearing. 1.56mm... This hole can be DAMAGED!!!! Problem is you PERSONALLY will never see this hole. ONLY a microscope can this and the pattern of wear. Once this item has been dismantled it is ADVICED to send the injector away for inspection. My injector has no ball bearing in it. However, did contain the cup. I replaced the ball bearing and refitted the injector loosely. Sent it away. They returned the item as damaged because the HOLE below the ball bearing was damaged BUT everything else was perfect. 120zl later injector fix, spec'd correctly and came back in full health as useable with warranty.
What I later found out what caused the injector to leak was because of this HOLE was enlarged and LEAKING additional FUEL into the cylinder. Thus causing the Copper WASHER to fail. Too much fluid in the combustion chamber and the pressure was to great for teh sealing ring. SO, when you find a failing ring, normally this means your internal of the injector has failed somewhere. Thus leaking too much fluid into the cylinder, then piston on the UP stroke forces the fluid to bypass the copper washer. You found your problem and now KNOW that your injector will fail tests no matter what you do to get it out safely.
10 pound ,,and longer slide hammer ,or pneumatic/hydraulic
LOL Tell me you haven't tried, without telling me you never-ever tried! A ten pound slide won't fit in the available work space, but if it did it would yank the threads right out of the injector. Pneumatic hammers do the same thing, break the injector and make removal far more difficult.
@@FloridaVanMan good point,depends on application
question is, how to maintain injectors so we don't have to go through this?
Don't let the fuel tank fill with air in cold wet weather. keep it full of fuel. And don't let the van sit without circulating fresh fuel over extended periods. Balancing those two ideas without driving the van a lot means compromise. Remove injectors every 200,000-300,000 miles for testing, or every 5-7 years. Use only good quality fuel.... and there's the rub! How do we know what is good and bad quality fuel??? We don't! At least I don't and anyone suggesting they do, I would question their beliefs as matter of facts or faith. All fuel brands have unique and proprietary additives in retail pump dispensed fuel. Mixing those additives with off the shelf bottles is just dangerous placebos with no chance of actual benefit.
you need a bigger clow