Great video I watched a few others and yours is the best. Just got my water pump on and timing belt on, two turns and still in time now just to put everything back together.
Great video, I really appreciate it. I was a previous Ford diesel and gas tech but haven't wrenched too much on the small ecobooms. Wifes water pump went out and this video helped a ton. Somehow my crank balancer locator got bent so the balancer was off a bit, throwing a p0016 code and surging intermittently at idle. Back apart and balancer aligned right it runs like a top. Now to trade this junk in on a toyota 😂
I’m really glad it helped. Does suck that you got the dreaded p0016 afterwards. But you corrected it. But it’s not just you. I’ve gotten them from other shops or techs after timing belts. So it happens alot.
@@YouGottaTryToDIY I think what happened was at first I was a tooth off so I corrected that, but in doing so I changed where the balancer was. Heck I dunno, all I know is I can take it back apart and put back together in about 2.5hrs 😂
I can get to my Water Pump with just removing the Alternator along with replacing the belt with ease on my 2018 Ford Fusion 1.5L EcoBoost. I’m just curious to know if I have to deal with the timing if I’m just replacing the Water Pump?
Great step by step explanation as i will be doing my sons 1.5 Fiesta here in Australia in a few weeks. Just a bit worried about the pin holding when tightening up the stretch to yield bolt on the harmonic balancer. It was a $40 kit so unsure of the pin quality in that price timing belt kit. Just wondering if you used a top quality kit or something similar in price range that i bought. Thanks again for your time and effort in making this video.
The kit we used was similar to an Amazon or EBay kit. If you are worried you can always use the flywheel lock if your kit came with it. You will have to remove the starter. And you can get it past the cooler. But if it’s your first time and since it’s supposed to come off I would advise removing the cooler and replace the gaskets. And for clarity. The worst thing that can happen with the pin is the threads get pushed out of the block. It locks the crank with horizontal pressure. Not with vertical like prying on something.
I also used a cheap kit from Amazon. The pin was to weak and gave a bit when I torqued the bolt resulting in the flywhell to move and rip the timing hole on the back of it. A new harmonic balancer cost $475. 😖@@YouGottaTryToDIY
Great video! I just completed all the steps up to the two rotations (at 29:40 in the video) but it only turns 15-20 degrees then stops. I have taken out the pin and the cam holder. Do i need to redo the timing with the flywheel walkin or did I miss something else?
If you can not do the 2 rotations with the timing tools removed. You may be fighting compression or something may be touching that shouldn’t. It takes some strength to rotate. But shouldn’t be very difficult.
I ended up takeing the car to Ford.... Turns out that #4 cylinder valve was contacting the top of the piston. One or two teeths of on the timing belt will be enought to cause this. Make sure to mark the exact location of the kam shafts (at around 18:25 in this video) as the tools involved might not hold everything exactly in place.
Great video, I am about to tackle this process and the only thing i dont understand is when you are installing the crank pulley you initially torque it and then say 90 and 15 but i dont see you rotating it and retorquing? And what are the next torque values after the initial 70some torque.
It may have been confusing. After the initial torque you are supposed to wait 15 seconds before doing a 90 degree torque. It was more of us joking. Since by the time we get the torque wrench calibration for the extra 90 degrees the 15 seconds have passes.
What did you use to get that crank bolt out with it in there that tight and if you have to turn it counter clockwise does that mess up your crank stop bolt?
With the mount out of the way you can lower the engine and use an impact. And depending on your impact it will zip it off. If you’re just using hand tools I’d advise to lock the crank with the flywheel lock. If it moves a little bit from the impact it only takes pressure off the crank pin. Once it’s loose you can rotate until it is putting pressure on it again.
yes awesome video. i just have one problem i am currently doing this but the part you take off the round one that had the wire connected to it, how do i get that off? also that 15mm bolt on the bottom next to the water pump, i only have about a four inch space to get that bolt out. maybe three so how do i take that whole part out?
Can you explain a little more? And if you mean the alternator bolt you can lift the engine up slightly and get it past the frame rail. Don’t go crazy with it. Just enough to get it up.
So the cams do not lock? But the crank pin does? How far off is it? Like a tooth or really close to locking in? Did you release the tensioner before tightening the gears? What tool do you have. Could be a tool issue unless it fit before you loosened everything.
Since the crank pulley is not keyed. And the crank bolt and pulley are held on by friction I’d advise to remove the crank pulley. To make sure the belt doesn’t drop or not sit on the gear correctly. And due to the way these are timed. With the crank pulley free moving with the crank bolt out there is a good chance timing will be off. Not only due to belt but also with the crank sensor since the tone ring is on the back of the pulley. After installing the belt and releasing the tensioner the crank gear takes up the slack. Since it moves freely. If it’s looked. And you keep it where it’s at and try to put the belt on. Your either gonna fight it since the crank gear can only move one direction. Or due to it only moving one direction it will take the slack in a place that it shouldn’t be and give a timing code. I’ve seen techs try it. Hard to explain in a comment. But hope it helps.
@@jabarinira6657I know this is late. But if you want to use the flywheel lock you have to remove the starter. I never have. Not even on the land rover engines that are designed by the same company. The crank lock and phaser tool is enough to hold the crank without the flywheel lock.
When removing the crank bolt (counter clockwise) wouldn't the only thing holding the torque be the cam lock and/or flywheel lock? From your description it seems the dowel would only be useful to the crank in the clockwise direction for holding time during re-assembly.
I’m in the process of changing my water pump on my 2018 Ford Fusion 1.5L EcoBoost is it possible to just change the water pump without messing with the timing? My Fusion doesn’t have a tensioner pulley nor is the engine designed like the ‘15 Fusion your working on?
I know I’m late. Had some phone issues. You do not have to do a timing belt. But the tensioner is bolted to the water pump. So timing will be messed with. Sorry for the late reply.
@@YouGottaTryToDIY I have a 2018 Ford Fusion 1.5L EcoBoost with no tensioner pulley so can I just change the water pump bypassing the timing? I appreciate you reaching out and giving me a response greatly appreciated once again.
Rotate 2 more times with the crank lock pin out. As your coming to TDC probably 15 degrees before install the crank pin. Have the cam lock ready to slide on and see if it locks. If it works on before the crank stops you are ok. If it’s way off with the cams you’re definitely out of time.
This one had a sensor because it was a Cali emissions car. And we installed a normal one with the sensor connector end tied up. And no issues. You probably have a Cali car also.we found the pump to be back ordered. So we installed the normal pump without the sensor and had no issues.
I have had to do it with a few VW/Audi 2.0T water pumps that are Cali emission cars. When they fail customers can not wait for 3 weeks to get one and the extra price doesn’t help. Most of them come in with the sensor corroded or broken. And no fault codes for it with it unplugged. I believe it’s for water pump efficiency. But not monitored as an emission fault.
Hello I have a 2013 ford Fusion se eco boost. I have changed the engine water outlet and the thermostat housing assembly but the car is still overheating do you know what can be the issue
What did you charge the customer for that job? I have a 2014 with 212K miles. no sign of water pump problems. But I need to drive the car another 3-4 years. I'm thinking of having this done to head off problems, do it on my timetable rather than the car's.
Honestly I don’t remember the labor price. Due to it being a little cheaper because it was a friend of ours. He also supplied his own parts and didn’t come with a parts warranty on our end. So it wasn’t exactly the normal price a shop would have charged. I can give you a shop price as a heads up tomorrow if you like. Not that we would do it. But so you know what the close average would be with parts and labor. You could also have the belt and pump inspected. Good chance it’s been done recently due to mileage. Or it’s needing to be done sooner than later.
Your shop price would be great. We bought the car new, and my wife got a new one in July. I drive it because it gets much better mileage than my truck. @@YouGottaTryToDIY
We have found it not needed. If we do see a leak from the cooler we will replace and clean it. Since you have to do that to get to the starter. But if there is no leak and we can save the customer money we just do it this way.
With recording it took about 4 hours. I think we finished around lunch time. A lot faster without recording. If you plan to do it in a drive way you could do it in a day. If you have ever done a timing belt you could do it faster.
Are you meaning when torquing the crank pulley bolt? If that’s what your asking. There would be a good chance of slipping on a cog or possibly damaging the belt. The belt is designed to grab and rotate. Not really suited for holding. And this way you don’t have to fear that you may have damaged the belt.
I’ve never used the flywheel lock. The crank pin and phaser locking tool hold it just fine. It’s not what the repair manual or some techs agree with. But I’ve never had a issue. At your own risk. But I can say it’s not needed.
Thanks. May have been an upload issue. Or internet. Doesn’t show that resolution on my end. But thanks for letting me know to keep it better for the future.
Great video I watched a few others and yours is the best. Just got my water pump on and timing belt on, two turns and still in time now just to put everything back together.
Great video, I really appreciate it. I was a previous Ford diesel and gas tech but haven't wrenched too much on the small ecobooms. Wifes water pump went out and this video helped a ton. Somehow my crank balancer locator got bent so the balancer was off a bit, throwing a p0016 code and surging intermittently at idle. Back apart and balancer aligned right it runs like a top. Now to trade this junk in on a toyota 😂
I’m really glad it helped. Does suck that you got the dreaded p0016 afterwards. But you corrected it. But it’s not just you. I’ve gotten them from other shops or techs after timing belts. So it happens alot.
@@YouGottaTryToDIY I think what happened was at first I was a tooth off so I corrected that, but in doing so I changed where the balancer was. Heck I dunno, all I know is I can take it back apart and put back together in about 2.5hrs 😂
Good video have to do this on my son's car.
Thanks.
Glad to help. Hope it goes smoothly for you.
Thanks😮
Hope it was helpful
Very helpful video, thanks! To get the crank pulley off, having the cam bridge lock and dowel in is enough to get the crank pulley bolt out?
Getting the crank bolt out we just used a 1/2 impact, but make sure the engine is in time first being that the crank is not keyed at all.
I can get to my Water Pump with just removing the Alternator along with replacing the belt with ease on my 2018 Ford Fusion 1.5L EcoBoost. I’m just curious to know if I have to deal with the timing if I’m just replacing the Water Pump?
Great step by step explanation as i will be doing my sons 1.5 Fiesta here in Australia in a few weeks.
Just a bit worried about the pin holding when tightening up the stretch to yield bolt on the harmonic balancer. It was a $40 kit so unsure of the pin quality in that price timing belt kit.
Just wondering if you used a top quality kit or something similar in price range that i bought.
Thanks again for your time and effort in making this video.
The kit we used was similar to an Amazon or EBay kit. If you are worried you can always use the flywheel lock if your kit came with it. You will have to remove the starter. And you can get it past the cooler. But if it’s your first time and since it’s supposed to come off I would advise removing the cooler and replace the gaskets. And for clarity. The worst thing that can happen with the pin is the threads get pushed out of the block. It locks the crank with horizontal pressure. Not with vertical like prying on something.
I also used a cheap kit from Amazon. The pin was to weak and gave a bit when I torqued the bolt resulting in the flywhell to move and rip the timing hole on the back of it. A new harmonic balancer cost $475. 😖@@YouGottaTryToDIY
Gteat videos guy,
Hopefully they are helpful
Great video! I just completed all the steps up to the two rotations (at 29:40 in the video) but it only turns 15-20 degrees then stops. I have taken out the pin and the cam holder. Do i need to redo the timing with the flywheel walkin or did I miss something else?
If you can not do the 2 rotations with the timing tools removed. You may be fighting compression or something may be touching that shouldn’t. It takes some strength to rotate. But shouldn’t be very difficult.
I ended up takeing the car to Ford.... Turns out that #4 cylinder valve was contacting the top of the piston. One or two teeths of on the timing belt will be enought to cause this. Make sure to mark the exact location of the kam shafts (at around 18:25 in this video) as the tools involved might not hold everything exactly in place.
Great video, I am about to tackle this process and the only thing i dont understand is when you are installing the crank pulley you initially torque it and then say 90 and 15 but i dont see you rotating it and retorquing? And what are the next torque values after the initial 70some torque.
It may have been confusing. After the initial torque you are supposed to wait 15 seconds before doing a 90 degree torque. It was more of us joking. Since by the time we get the torque wrench calibration for the extra 90 degrees the 15 seconds have passes.
@@YouGottaTryToDIY do you recommend any type of gasket sealer for the gasket?
What did you use to get that crank bolt out with it in there that tight and if you have to turn it counter clockwise does that mess up your crank stop bolt?
With the mount out of the way you can lower the engine and use an impact. And depending on your impact it will zip it off. If you’re just using hand tools I’d advise to lock the crank with the flywheel lock. If it moves a little bit from the impact it only takes pressure off the crank pin. Once it’s loose you can rotate until it is putting pressure on it again.
Thank you! I tried my dewalt 1/2 inch impact but couldnt get it to budge. Eventually got it loose with a socket and cheater pipe. It was on there.
yes awesome video. i just have one problem i am currently doing this but the part you take off the round one that had the wire connected to it, how do i get that off? also that 15mm bolt on the bottom next to the water pump, i only have about a four inch space to get that bolt out. maybe three so how do i take that whole part out?
Can you explain a little more? And if you mean the alternator bolt you can lift the engine up slightly and get it past the frame rail. Don’t go crazy with it. Just enough to get it up.
@@YouGottaTryToDIY yes the alternator. i figured it out. but i have a new problem i think i screwed up the timing and don't know how to fix it
Any way to reset alignment ring on pulley ? Mine came off no idea of position
On the crank pulley? No way to reset. If it has come off you will need to replace. It’s a set place that you really can’t correctly eyeball.
So i did 2 turns put the crank dowel in and the cam locker is off by just a little and wont go in.. what now? Thank you
So the cams do not lock? But the crank pin does? How far off is it? Like a tooth or really close to locking in? Did you release the tensioner before tightening the gears? What tool do you have. Could be a tool issue unless it fit before you loosened everything.
So the crank pulley must come off even though you can remove the pump once the tensioner is in a neutral position and the crank dial pin is in?
Since the crank pulley is not keyed. And the crank bolt and pulley are held on by friction I’d advise to remove the crank pulley. To make sure the belt doesn’t drop or not sit on the gear correctly. And due to the way these are timed. With the crank pulley free moving with the crank bolt out there is a good chance timing will be off. Not only due to belt but also with the crank sensor since the tone ring is on the back of the pulley. After installing the belt and releasing the tensioner the crank gear takes up the slack. Since it moves freely. If it’s looked. And you keep it where it’s at and try to put the belt on. Your either gonna fight it since the crank gear can only move one direction. Or due to it only moving one direction it will take the slack in a place that it shouldn’t be and give a timing code. I’ve seen techs try it. Hard to explain in a comment. But hope it helps.
@@YouGottaTryToDIY I’m in the process of doing My do you have to remove the starter?
@@jabarinira6657I know this is late. But if you want to use the flywheel lock you have to remove the starter. I never have. Not even on the land rover engines that are designed by the same company. The crank lock and phaser tool is enough to hold the crank without the flywheel lock.
When removing the crank bolt (counter clockwise) wouldn't the only thing holding the torque be the cam lock and/or flywheel lock? From your description it seems the dowel would only be useful to the crank in the clockwise direction for holding time during re-assembly.
I’m in the process of changing my water pump on my 2018 Ford Fusion 1.5L EcoBoost is it possible to just change the water pump without messing with the timing? My Fusion doesn’t have a tensioner pulley nor is the engine designed like the ‘15 Fusion your working on?
I know I’m late. Had some phone issues. You do not have to do a timing belt. But the tensioner is bolted to the water pump. So timing will be messed with. Sorry for the late reply.
@@YouGottaTryToDIY I have a 2018 Ford Fusion 1.5L EcoBoost with no tensioner pulley so can I just change the water pump bypassing the timing? I appreciate you reaching out and giving me a response greatly appreciated once again.
My timing belt is locked but it’s pass where the tool can fit. Is this ok or do I need to do the process over.
Rotate 2 more times with the crank lock pin out. As your coming to TDC probably 15 degrees before install the crank pin. Have the cam lock ready to slide on and see if it locks. If it works on before the crank stops you are ok. If it’s way off with the cams you’re definitely out of time.
It may be confusing with what I just said. But whatever you have questions about I will help with.
New water pump doesn’t have sensor on it is that ok to still use or is it wrong one?
This one had a sensor because it was a Cali emissions car. And we installed a normal one with the sensor connector end tied up. And no issues. You probably have a Cali car also.we found the pump to be back ordered. So we installed the normal pump without the sensor and had no issues.
I have had to do it with a few VW/Audi 2.0T water pumps that are Cali emission cars. When they fail customers can not wait for 3 weeks to get one and the extra price doesn’t help. Most of them come in with the sensor corroded or broken. And no fault codes for it with it unplugged. I believe it’s for water pump efficiency. But not monitored as an emission fault.
Hello I have a 2013 ford Fusion se eco boost. I have changed the engine water outlet and the thermostat housing assembly but the car is still overheating do you know what can be the issue
Hard to know without seeing the vehicle. But a few things you could check. Does the cooling fan come on? And possibly the water pump not flowing.
Yes coolant fan comes on
Fan is two speed can fool you
What did you charge the customer for that job? I have a 2014 with 212K miles. no sign of water pump problems. But I need to drive the car another 3-4 years. I'm thinking of having this done to head off problems, do it on my timetable rather than the car's.
Honestly I don’t remember the labor price. Due to it being a little cheaper because it was a friend of ours. He also supplied his own parts and didn’t come with a parts warranty on our end. So it wasn’t exactly the normal price a shop would have charged. I can give you a shop price as a heads up tomorrow if you like. Not that we would do it. But so you know what the close average would be with parts and labor. You could also have the belt and pump inspected. Good chance it’s been done recently due to mileage. Or it’s needing to be done sooner than later.
Your shop price would be great. We bought the car new, and my wife got a new one in July. I drive it because it gets much better mileage than my truck. @@YouGottaTryToDIY
dealership is $1710 and a shop was $2200
So you didn’t use the flywheel hood down too? That would be great to not pull the starter
O never mind you answered my question later in the video thanks for the homework
We have found it not needed. If we do see a leak from the cooler we will replace and clean it. Since you have to do that to get to the starter. But if there is no leak and we can save the customer money we just do it this way.
How long did it take to perform this job?
With recording it took about 4 hours. I think we finished around lunch time. A lot faster without recording. If you plan to do it in a drive way you could do it in a day. If you have ever done a timing belt you could do it faster.
Why not jest tens/ pulley from belt.
Are you meaning when torquing the crank pulley bolt? If that’s what your asking. There would be a good chance of slipping on a cog or possibly damaging the belt. The belt is designed to grab and rotate. Not really suited for holding. And this way you don’t have to fear that you may have damaged the belt.
I’m in the process of doing mine. Do you have to remove the starter?
Did you use the flywheel hold down tool
I’ve never used the flywheel lock. The crank pin and phaser locking tool hold it just fine. It’s not what the repair manual or some techs agree with. But I’ve never had a issue. At your own risk. But I can say it’s not needed.
240p is just disrespectful lol
Love the work
Thanks. May have been an upload issue. Or internet. Doesn’t show that resolution on my end. But thanks for letting me know to keep it better for the future.
Good video but sound not very good.
I am working on that. Better content and sound is coming soon.
Junk ass engines that and the 3.5 V6 Ford engine