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That is awesome. I’m glad it helped. It’s why we did it. We worked on better sound. But we also wanted to get straight to the point and not banter about things during the video.

Did you do seals and belt? Possibly what happened. Easy to check with the valve cover off.

Glad to help. Hope it goes smoothly for you.

I know I’m late. Had some phone issues. You do not have to do a timing belt. But the tensioner is bolted to the water pump. So timing will be messed with. Sorry for the late reply.

@@YouGottaTryToDIY I have a 2018 Ford Fusion 1.5L EcoBoost with no tensioner pulley so can I just change the water pump bypassing the timing? I appreciate you reaching out and giving me a response greatly appreciated once again.

Love the work

Thanks. May have been an upload issue. Or internet. Doesn’t show that resolution on my end. But thanks for letting me know to keep it better for the future.

Yeah I did it as a visual. Before I did the dot it looked like it was spinning but it was actually just pulsating.

It was. But a nice change of pace for all the stuff I do.

It’s what good technicians should do. If you do something you should do it the best you can. My bay neighbor joked and said “you have injectors out of this 3.0tdi. Just say you got it out. Won’t damage anything”. But as a joke because he seen me fishing for awhile. Neither one of us would do it. But made me think it would be so easy for someone to charge for that and do no work.

It sure is a pain in the @$$ on a lot of engines, especially interference engines!

It may have been a lot easier. Since he had to bring it to me from a hour away. But he also wanted me to do a timing belt and water pump which I’ll have a video of. He had already planned that. But after it was running. But labor is cheaper with it out so it helped him. But honestly it was kinda of fun. Nice change of pace honestly. Was irritating but different.

Can you explain a little more? And if you mean the alternator bolt you can lift the engine up slightly and get it past the frame rail. Don’t go crazy with it. Just enough to get it up.

@@YouGottaTryToDIY yes the alternator. i figured it out. but i have a new problem i think i screwed up the timing and don't know how to fix it

Thanks. Hard to explain the thought process in a short with only 60 seconds. But hopefully helps someone in the future.

I completely agree. I am an electrical specialist in many brands. It’s something I have been good at or enjoyed doing for decades. And you can see the difference between brands on how they complete their harnesses. And it’s a broad spectrum on how it’s done. This is a Benz designed engine yet has a harness design from 2 decades ago. I did make this one better. And should not have issues again for the life of the vehicle. I did have to pull the harness from the starter and ground on the driver’s side to lift it above the engine to work on. But even with that labor and the repair with felt wrap like vw/audi and Benz uses. The price isn’t bad. Not sure why they don’t spend a little more money that would benefit them long term when they make their harnesses.

Just Expect Every Problem

Old Jeeps did have them for different reasons than the Benz ones.

Chrysler has a very bad harness build up. That was the first brand I was electrical specialist in. I was fixing wires more than I was replacing parts. They use a split loom that is very bad. If they used a mesh wrap and also wrapped the harness they would not have any issues. And I build harnesses on the side. The price wise isn’t that different. Maybe if you did one it would be cheaper. But after doing multiple I have noticed in bulk the price is close to the same. But also a much better quality.

It’s my first go to for broken bolts every time. I know some people drill and use an extractor. Or drill and retap. But I can get a welder and a nut in areas that I can’t drill. And haven’t had to drill yet. This trick works great on the 5.4 exhaust manifold bolts. Makes quick work of it.

I’m really glad it helped. Does suck that you got the dreaded p0016 afterwards. But you corrected it. But it’s not just you. I’ve gotten them from other shops or techs after timing belts. So it happens alot.

@@YouGottaTryToDIY I think what happened was at first I was a tooth off so I corrected that, but in doing so I changed where the balancer was. Heck I dunno, all I know is I can take it back apart and put back together in about 2.5hrs 😂

I was a Toyota tech for less than a decade over a decade ago. There is a TSB for this, but it's not something the dealers will repair so much as just replace the motor. That's why your guy doesn't even know about it. The job comes in as a motor and if not it gets kicked out of the shop after the TSB is identified. It's just not worth it for big shops that can turn more profit avoiding certain liabilities.

I know of the TSB. But this is in the regular repair manual for remove and reinstall. To do the cam seal on the intake cam you have to remove the cam. It right away tells you to put the intake 5mm Allen bolt into the exhaust cam gear so it stays tensioned. I’m only doing this because the cam has to come out to correct.

Yeah it’s called a welder. But to be honest it would not have worked in this case. Unless you wanted to break the mating surface off the head for the valve cover.

Thanks. It’s a tip for when you can’t use a drill or extraction tool. If I drilled and used an extractor it would have wedged and crack or broken the area from the head.

Even when they are correctly repaired they do have some noise to them. But this was excessive.

Bingo. When you know. You know. So easy to do for techs that either don’t read the procedure. When the exhaust gear snaps back it still meshes correctly when they reinstall. But the preload keeps the cams from snapping when one is compressing the valves and the other rolls back away from being loaded.

They are load even when they came out. But this one is louder than normal.

Belt

Bingo. So easy to do. Because when it snaps back the gear still meshes.

Very possible knowing the front cam caps on these take a small amount of rtv or seal packing as Toyota calls it. It did have a lot more than it should. The front cam cap did have some rtv that got put around the VVT screen. Which on top of what was wrong did not help in any way.

@@YouGottaTryToDIY when I was a younger man (20ish I am now 45) I bought a girl I was dating a 1972 Plymouth Fury with the "unkillable" 318. It had an oil leak on the valve covers so I pulled the valve covers off to reseal them and the engine was completely covered in carbon sludge just like this videos you will see here on CZcams from that channel called "just rolled in" I don't think that car ever had an oil change. I told my father I was going to run an engine flush through it he recommended against it (he was a mechanical engineer) saying there was so much sludge in that engine that it would plug an oil gallery. Needless to say at 20 years old I knew better than him because I was on my way to becoming a ASE mechanic so I ran the engine flush through the engine exactly the way the instructions said ignoring an engineer / gearhead father's warning lol (lesson here is listen to your father if somebody is reading this in the future you may think you know everything but you don't). Anyways About 20 minutes later after completing the oil change the engine was very noisy in the valve train very similar to the tundra in this video. So about a week goes by and I decided that the engine needed to be removed cleaned inspected and resealed, upon completing my teardown I plugged the cam oil gally full of carbon. That day I learned a lesson that cost me a few hundred dollars at the time and a ton of Labor. Fast forward to today, I know on more modern engines they use motor oil that's like water compared to the old legendary small and big blocks from 50+ years ago, then they use variable valve timing to increase fuel mileage and the oil galleries in just about every single vehicle made in the last 20 or 25 years to feed those damn cam phasers are way undersized and they are so susceptible to dirt and debris. Now that being said I have never actually worked on a 4.7 or any other V8 Toyota for that matter so I don't know if Toyota suffers from the same fate but when I see a ton of silicone RTV and a noisy engine I immediately get suspicious. At this point in my life I've managed to leave the late model car wrenching alone as a mechanic and go back to cars like that Fury but I have definitely dealt with my fair share of junk ford 3 valves, 6.no diesels and a fair share of GMS also along with some Chryslers and for my experience they all have the same issues. A 40 or 50 second video through the microphone of a phone it's really hard to diagnose something correctly but from that brief little snippet it definitely sounds oil related. If you end up turning this engine down or figuring out what's wrong with it I would love it if you message me and let me know if I was correct in my thoughts.

@@AtomicReverend I have added a second video which shows the main culprit. But you are correct with the other issue that was plagued to cause issues if the customer would have followed the other shops suggestion. By adding thicker oil and “just driving it”. That will be in part 3. And I learned from my dad at a young age that he had forgotten more than I knew at the time. And it was more of a game. I didn’t expect anyone to diagnose from the short. And also wouldn’t look down on them if they were incorrect.

Rotate 2 more times with the crank lock pin out. As your coming to TDC probably 15 degrees before install the crank pin. Have the cam lock ready to slide on and see if it locks. If it works on before the crank stops you are ok. If it’s way off with the cams you’re definitely out of time.

It may be confusing with what I just said. But whatever you have questions about I will help with.

I think it was close to 6k from the other shop with a used engine. But low miles. I only charged 3 hours for getting all the water out. Would have been less if i didn’t remove the injectors. But needed to do that so I could properly get all the water out. And if it would have still had an issue i would not have charged anything for that.

Bro is a lucky man