Honda V6 Transmission Mount Replacement Accord 1999 (1998-2002 Similar)
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- In this video, I show you how I replace the transmission mounts on a 1999 Honda Accord with a V6 engine (J-series). This procedure should be similar for 1998-2002 models with a V6 engine. The exact vehicle in this video is a 1999 Honda Accord EX V6 Sedan.
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Other Videos on this V6 Accord:
CV Axle Replacement: • Honda V6 Drive Axle (C...
Transmission Service: • Honda Accord V6 Automa...
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*Parts and Tools*
This channel earns a small commission using some of these links - at no additional cost to you.
Rear Transmission Mount: amzn.to/2Q7qCT2
Front Transmission Mount: amzn.to/2Lxo5NN
GearWrench Ratchets: amzn.to/2ZZx5E8
GearWrench 1/4" and 3/8" Sockets: amzn.to/3008sad
GearWrench 1/2" Sockets: amzn.to/2ZX2DKa
Snap-On Torque Wrench: bit.ly/2TzsaU0
GearWrench 3/8" Extensions: amzn.to/2ZX2IgW
GearWrench 1/2" Extensions: amzn.to/2NYgOIp
Daytona Jack (Cheaper at HF with Coupon): amzn.to/2NdueRl
Jack Stands (Cheaper at HF with Coupon): amzn.to/2NealcH
The Big Dog 50001 Automotive Channel Store can be found here: www.amazon.com/shop/bigdog50001automotive
I know this video is 5yrs old but I just bought a 2000 accord. And it needs all new mounts. This video was very helpful.
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment!
Over time you going to make some Honda accord owners very happy that you showed them the steps for this job.
Thanks for the comment!
one right here! thanks!
@@therealjackieheezy Awesome!
thanks i aint paying an arm n a leg really appreciate it
Fantastic video man. I like the lack of useless commentary. You’re right to the point and don’t waste anytime while still being personable. Keep making videos!
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Thanks for making this video man. I have a 2003 acura tl with the same setup. Couldn't find instructions on it until i saw this.
👍
I’m going to try this by myself man. My car jerks when I put it into reverse and when accelerating. Need to also replace my rear motor mount. Thank you for a great video man.
Other Videos on this V6 Accord:
CV Axle Replacement: czcams.com/video/kJvgZspHg-Q/video.html
Transmission Service: czcams.com/video/5Wswf6loXuc/video.html
Fantastic little rundown. Regarding the two upper bolts for the rear mount, I had great luck using penetrating oil to loosen them and then I was able to unscrew by hand after breaking them with the wrench.
When letting the engine/transmission down on the new mounts, I slowly lowered bit by bit to make sure I could reinstall the nuts and bolts first by hand. ALSO DO THIS FOR THE FRONT ENGINE MOUNT. I forgot about that one until the end and it cost me more time to lift and readjust the engine.
As an amateur still building their toolset and skills, this took me two hours alone (primarily trying to break bolts and cursing)
Love your videos. Watched the one on a 7th generation Civic rear strut replacement when I completed rhe job this summer. Bought a 2000 Accord V6 that was leaking antifreeze at 170,000. Replaced timing belt, water pump etc. Also replaced solenoid on charcoal canister after viewing your video. You have a common sense approach with some technical explanation as in the solenoid video. Thanks from a Honda mechanic for the last 40 years. First car was a 1974 Civic Manual transmission. That car is no match for the 7th generation Civics I have worked on. Keep the videos coming!
Thanks, I appreciate the comment!
Great video, saved me quite a lot of time and frustration. I changed the front mount and both trans mounts at the same time.
Great tip on moving the plastic piece.
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment!
Very nice step by step instructions.
Thanks Jim!
Great job Dog! Clear and concise. Your share of knowledge will make my mount replacement much easier and less time consuming. Kudos on safety. Cheers
Thanks 👍!
This is a great diy as long as your steps/advice are followed. I just had a customer here that I had to show him how to open his hood...even with me showing him ,he couldn't get it open. 😑 great video 👍
Yeah some folks probably shouldn't work on vehicles, or anything for that matter. Thanks for the comment Jonathan!
Lmao
Me and my brother just finished this together. You made our job so much easier.
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment!
Finally v6 video for honda I appreciate the video help me alot doing a small project going replace all mount plus shock and hub bearing
👍
Dave another great video. Thanks to yourself and Eric at South Main Auto I just finished doing the water pump and timing belt on my wifes 99 accord 3.0. Also changed the accessory drive belt tensioner. Bearing and tensioner were bad. Also changed the bushing behind the idler tensioner pulley for wear. Thanks for the info on jacking went out and bought the Daytona 3ton big boy and raised the car plenty high enough. Guess I'll check tranny mounts before lowering the vehicle. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and time. Much appreciated Artie 👍👍👍
Thanks Arthur, good to hear you got everything fixed!
One of the best videos I have ever watch,simple and right to the point,thank you
I appreciate the comment, thanks!
Great job,thanks! Such clear photography and safety tips are really appreciated !
Thanks 👍!
@@BigDog50001 You're welcome.
Thanks for this. Got an accord recently (my first car), and that may just be what's clunking. I thought it may be the transmission itself, but if it's the mounts, this video will be a godsend
👍
@@BigDog50001 Its actually just the motor mounts. Thank god it's not something else
Good vídeo man... Quick question, How can I know when the front n rear motor mounts are damaged? The two big ones.
Usually a visual inspection will show cracks and deterioration, sometimes you can feel more vibrations from the engine especially at an idle.
Happy Honda owner here, thanks
Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for the video helped made things much easier .. especially dealing w those bad boy bolts
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment!
Great video as usual. Just one question, how did you test for a bad transmission mount on that vehicle? Thanks
A visual inspection for cracks usually finds these. Thanks for the comment.
I replaced two driver side' transmission mounts with this video. Very supportive. But one thing that I failed was the front mount. The rear passenger side bolt wasn't able to get reached.. I attempted from the bottom as well.. but never succeeded. How can I manage to do that nasty bolt out???
If you are talking about the right rear bolt on the front engine mount, I usually just use a universal socket on most Hondas. They can be stubborn though.
@@BigDog50001 unfortunately mine is 1998 v6 accord same as you showed on the video. I used universal and wabble socket also. Im guessing maybe I need to try disassemblying the radiator fan or the cat.
I will also use flex head ratchets and long flex head ratcheting wrenches from the bottom sometimes too, depending on vehicle.
@@BigDog50001 many thanks for your reply.
Awesome video got all the info i needed and some
Thanks!
Great video man!
Thanks 👍!
Thank you.
Great video. 👍🏼
Great Vid Man !!! Appreciate your instructions
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment!
I liked the part when he told us about the vacuum line on the front mount
Diddo on the great vid. I have recently changed my motor mounts and am experiencing a fairly strong vibration, at idle, when stopped at a red light. The vibration is coming from the transmission. This only occurs when the care is in D or R. Used aftermarket mounts. Any ideas on what the problem might be. Many Thanks.
Here are a few possibilities:
1.The aftermarket mounts are not as good as genuine Honda mounts.
2. The front engine mount on many Hondas are oil filled (many replacement mounts are not) and *the mount is connected to engine vacuum through an Engine Mount Control Solenoid*. At idle, the solenoid allows vacuum to the mount which dampens vibrations. A solid aftermarket rubber mount (no oil), a bad engine mount, or a bad Engine Mount Control Solenoid can create more vibrations at idle than normal.
3. The mounts are binding and need to be "neutralized". Sometimes the mounts need to be put in a neutral position after replacement otherwise vibrations can occur (many times this is not necessary). Below is the general procedure Honda recommends for neutralizing engine and transmission mounts if there are excessive vibrations:
Insert the main engine mount bolts, finger-tight.
Start the engine, apply the brakes, and then shift back and forth between Drive and Reverse several times.
Shift to Park, and shut off the engine.
Torque the main engine bolts to spec
Many Thanks for the information. I am in discussions with the supplier now, we will see how this works out.. @@BigDog50001
thanks Big Dog well done sir
👍
One suggestion I have is on the front engine mount instead of removing the 4 bolts at the base just do the one nut on top achieves the same goal but less work
That is an option, sometimes the tops don't like to line up as easy on reinstall though and there is a risk of breaking the top of the mount when trying to loosening the nut (which is why I usually do not do it that way). Thanks for the input!
nice job thank you
Thank you for the comment!
hey man weve talked before on here. Just had a question. Could a bad tranny mount cause banging at acceleration? Not shuddering when gearing but literally feels like a tranny mount is bad and is hitting the frame. I had bad rear mount and I changed that. But before I put OEM rear mount in I put in a crappy aftermarket that caused horrendous vibrations. I think that mightve caused one the tranny mounts to fail. Upper or the lower mount. Does this sound logical to you? lol
Dam great simple video thanks
Thank you for the comment!
Great advice brother
You forgot the 4th motor mount. On the left hand side. When should I loosen that one?
Can I ask you one more question? Im about to work on with the front one but want to clarify if its necessary regarding removing the left sides' bolts out. Or just can I leave the left tranny mounts?
Nice video bro
Thanks!
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Thanks Big Dog
👍
What’s your view on using aftermarket mounts for the transmission? I’ve heard some say to use only Honda OEM mounts for the engine but that it doesn’t matter what company you use for tranny mounts.
I prefer to use Honda OEM mounts whenever I can, doesn't matter if they are for the transmission or engine. I do use aftermarket mounts, especially on older vehicles, to save the owner money though. If I remember correctly, the mounts in this video were aftermarket.
Big Dog50001 Automotive I see. Then you would suggest using all OEM mounts on a 2006 Ridgeline?
is that the same for the 2005 accord v6???
Different generation but most of the Honda V6s have a very similar setup.
On my thankyou!
Thanks for the comment!
Would the motor mount couse a clunk when I put it on reverse and into drive?
Yes it is possible, depending on which ones are bad and how bad they are.
@@BigDog50001. Can It also make the car not shift out of second
@@BigDog50001 couse of the clunk I hear
Hi iam. New. On your channel asking I have a Honda accord ex sedan v6 2.7 97 I have the same problem that car in the video wear the engine amount es looked es the same place on. May car. Let me know and thanks
A 1997 is a previous generation which has a different set up.
Could bad transmission mounts only become noticeable after car is warmed up? I have 1999 Acura TL 3.2. Car runs perfectly after start-up. After 10 mins, there is vibration (feels like exhaust heat shield vibration) under car and slight loss of power. Symptoms only occur at what seems like shift points (for 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear) as I gradually step on gas pedal from a stop. Was thinking maybe clogged exhaust but other indications don't seem consistent with that. There's no error code (confirmed and pending), and I don't see the TCS light flash on the dash to indicate misfire.. Just had a EGR valve clogged open (P1491 error code). Replaced that valve and the symptoms started happening. Not sure if it's a coincidence. Put the old EGR valve back in after removing the carbon that caused the stuck open valve, but still have same symptoms. Thanks if you can think of anything.
Normally you will feel vibrations due to bad engine and transmission mounts at an idle, especially the engine mounts that are oil filled and computer controlled. If these symptoms started right after work was done then double checking my work is where I would start. For a P1491, the entire EGR passage in the intake manifold needs to be cleaned. If the throttle body was cleaned, then it needs to relearn the idle, which is exactly what I did to the vehicle in this video here: czcams.com/video/cM2Y5J9j4IM/video.html
@@BigDog50001 I had cleaned the EGR passages in intake and the throttle body about 10k miles ago. Also, I drove car with EGR electrical connector disconnected and got same symptoms. I'm thinking that the EGR valve was propped open with small carbon chunk before and now car is running with a an EGR valve that closes properly. Still not sure how exhaust air flow could cause the problem. And why symptoms only occur after about 10 mins of driving. I monitor car sensors via OBD II and everything seems ok. I'm going to bring car to shop tomorrow to ask for help. Thanks for your reply.
I will do idle relearn and see if it makes a difference. Doubt it, but would be great if that fixes it. I did clear the P1491 via regular OBD II scanner, so should have done the procedure. Will do it today.
Let me just do a final follow-up, in case anyone is interested. I did the idle relearn and nothing changed. Then I did a more "open-minded" test drive without focusing so much on possible exhaust restriction. My conclusion now is that the noise and power lost occurs at transmission shift points and it is the transmission that is causing the problem. I can see the RPM spike down a few hundred RPMs when the car stumble as gas pedal is depressed steadily. The transmission has never shown any signs of problems before. It's had regular 30k miles Honda ATF fluid change, with the last change done 10k miles ago. And why would the car run perfectly during the first 10 mins? Then I had an epiphany: what if the issue is in the transmission cooler lines? Perhaps it's restricted and the ATF is not being cooled? So after 10 mins, the ATF is starting to overheat and not performing properly? Anyway, that is my hypothesis. I'll check to see if my car has an in-line ATF filter. Don't know if ATF temp is available from an OEM level scan tool. Maybe I'll at least check the ATF pan with an IR temp gun to see if it shows ATF getting too hot. And as to why it seems that this problem occured immediately after I "fixed" a stuck open EGR valve, maybe the now working EGR valve is working to let more hot exhaust air through the exhaust and this hotter exhaust effects ATF temp through exhaust's proximity to transmission? Or it could be just coincidence.
Wouldn't it be easier to loosen the big not on the top of the motor mount? Then you don't have to line the 4 bolts on the bottom up again.
There are two reasons I don't do it that way: 1. sometimes the mount is harder to line up when dropping the engine back one it and 2. there is a possibility of twisting the top of the rubber mount when loosening the nut and breaking the top of the engine mount.
What size are the rear upper motor mounts bolts?
Great video!!!!
Thank you.
👍