How To Build Flight Case and Transport Box

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  • čas přidán 19. 01. 2021
  • Building large flight cases and transport boxes is easy and much cheaper than buying them. Hinges, locks, fittings and aluminum rails is readily available at almost all audio / light retailers of equipment for disco, clubs and festivals. I share the tips on how to construct it in a simple way and make sure you get parallel edges that looks good when the boxes are locked together. With so many different rails, hinges and locking mechanisms it is easy to make a mistake and mount something off-center or with distances that does not take aluminum rail thickness into account.
    In this video I show you how I built 3 boxes in total at a cost of around 500$, two very large flight cases for my secondary coil and topload. The third box is a cable and equipment box that is just made from the leftover plywood from the two large cases.
    Pictures, spreadsheet for weight calculation and discussion of flight case building: highvoltageforum.net/index.ph...
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Komentáře • 52

  • @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk

    The pointer for the total price in the spreadsheet is at a wrong place :( The total is around ~500$ for the 3 boxes.

  • @jobaecker9752
    @jobaecker9752 Před rokem

    Sehr schön und auch sehr günstig!

  • @JimStamm-id6wv
    @JimStamm-id6wv Před 8 měsíci

    Great Job!!

  • @zaprodk
    @zaprodk Před 3 lety

    Very nice - now i want to make some custom boxes as well :)

  • @Handskemager
    @Handskemager Před 2 lety

    God video! Godt lavet :)

  • @miguelzamora2011
    @miguelzamora2011 Před 2 lety +2

    This is awesome! I want to make a suitcase that looks like a flight case, do you mind posting what kind of materials they are so I can get my list together to get at the hardware store? I gotta figure out how to rivet but I want to make myself a nice one! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

    • @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk
      @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk  Před 2 lety

      What materials exactly? I am pretty sure I mention it all in the video.

    • @miguelzamora2011
      @miguelzamora2011 Před 2 lety

      @@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk oh my mistake, I missed the named of the walls your using. I'll go back to refer the video👍🏾

    • @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk
      @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk  Před 2 lety +1

      @@miguelzamora2011 I am not sure of the name, its the cheap laminated wood used for concrete pouring.

  • @vaclavwaloschek743
    @vaclavwaloschek743 Před 3 lety +2

    Hello ! How much time did you take to build it, once you had the materials ? Considering building 3 or 4 for large TVs, I'd like to have your bet (as I will need more time still, to add the internal supportive parts for them). Thank you.

  • @LesWheelerBass
    @LesWheelerBass Před 3 lety +1

    What type of rivets and size are you using? Good work mate.

    • @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk
      @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk  Před 3 lety

      I used 4.0x11.4mm, you could properly use shorter ones. Type 12-971 here www.biltema.dk/varktoj/handvarktoj/nittevarktoj/nitter/nitte-2000016806

  • @joshuakelley383
    @joshuakelley383 Před 3 lety

    where did you source all of your hardware for these cases im interested in building some for my personal lighting equipment

    • @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk
      @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk  Před 3 lety

      You can usually find it at any event/lightning company, like "Adam Hall" in Gernany. All wood is from local hardware store.

  • @bakoguy5330
    @bakoguy5330 Před 8 měsíci

    You have a very unique look and accent. Have you ever thought acting? No homo. Thanks for the video bro, I’m still trying to see if it’s worth the time to build a case for my DJ lighting, this was very helpful

    • @DearTony1005
      @DearTony1005 Před měsícem

      Glad you said no homo, I was just thinking you were gay.

  • @massimofabbri1175
    @massimofabbri1175 Před 9 měsíci

    Nice video! I wanted only ask you if Is better your solution to built the structure or is better to use casemaker profiles.. Thanks

    • @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk
      @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk  Před 9 měsíci +1

      I had to do it my way, because casemaker profiles only comes in 1 meter length. There was very little hardware to be found, premade for 2 meter long cases. Casemaker profiles seems to be double the price, so its a trade-off between your time and money. But I would properly buy casemaker profiles for cases that are less than 1 meter :)

    • @massimofabbri1175
      @massimofabbri1175 Před 9 měsíci

      @@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk Thanks you very much! But I think your structure is more solid than the other one with casemaker profiles

    • @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk
      @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk  Před 9 měsíci +1

      @@massimofabbri1175 True, but it comes with a price in additional weight :) They are heavy.

  • @shawncarson5930
    @shawncarson5930 Před 2 lety

    Having a hard time finding that thin laminated ply board in the US. Any suggestions?

    • @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk
      @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk  Před 2 lety

      Did you try looking for wood used in concrete pouring form building? A more expensive version is used for construction of trailers, but also better quality.

  • @henriklehmannthomsen9865
    @henriklehmannthomsen9865 Před 3 lety +1

    'Wow look at that baby'....eyes shining
    9:44 Timestamp in the video. I Think we see true love :)

  • @lit2021
    @lit2021 Před 3 lety +1

    Cheap? Haha in the Bauhaus store where I live, that concrete mold plywood is 3 times more expensive than regular plywood, because of the waterproofing. :D But it's definitely worth it, because you don't have to paint it or put any kind of faux leather over it.

    • @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk
      @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk  Před 3 lety

      Current building material prices in 2021/corona times could properly have shifted the price differences....

  • @officialpoa3171
    @officialpoa3171 Před 2 měsíci

    *My son, you all REALLY, should have built shock absorber cases instead, for gear like that!*

  • @SeanBZA
    @SeanBZA Před 3 lety +1

    Would instead of using the nails and wood glue use instead some slow curing epoxy or urethane sealer, along with drilling the holes for the nails, and replacing them with countersunk long thin chipboard screws. Inside you simply wipe the edges of the seams before the urethane cures, on all except for the base, as this is likely to have another base panel inside, so there you can cut the excess flush with the panel after the lid is cut with the saw.
    Long screws give a lot of rigidity, and using the urethane sealer means the case sections are never going to delaminate, plus you can use the same urethane to bond the aluminium edges on, so they will not come off except after major damage. I have done the chipboard screw thing often, and the failure is the wood breaking, though I do cheat and use fine thread quality drywall screws often, as they will self drill the hole, but even the chipboard screws work well.

    • @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk
      @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk  Před 3 lety

      Which thickness panels do you use? I would love to have used 12 or 15 mm for sturdiness, but the weight of the added thickness was a big no. All the aluminum rails does all the rigidity, but I can foresee that some years of use and replacement of rivets to bolt+washer+nut might be necessary if the rivets are stressed enough to break the wood.

    • @SeanBZA
      @SeanBZA Před 3 lety

      @@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk Cheapest panels by me are 18mm, so used those. Yes thinner panels are better, but using an even glue bond will mean no rivets needed. Just some stretchy tape to hold the panels and edges together for the cure time of the urethane, which will probably mean a day of tape. I used the shutterply to make simple shelving, and did the dimensions to use the full sheet with only a single cut width. Thus the edge screws, to get a strong joint.

    • @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk
      @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk  Před 3 lety

      @@SeanBZA woah yeah 18 mm is never going to happen with big boxes like this! That would be 80 kg just for the big box! You are not using rivets on the aluminum rails?

    • @SeanBZA
      @SeanBZA Před 3 lety

      @@KaizerPowerElectronicsDk 18mm does not need rails, the join itself is strong enough, though a few corners had braces put in.

    • @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk
      @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk  Před 3 lety

      @@SeanBZA Now I understand :)

  • @djdouglas2705
    @djdouglas2705 Před 3 lety

    How much do you charge me for making me one flight case for 2 55 inch tv

    • @nabzim
      @nabzim Před 3 lety

      Are you serious???

  • @luigie2555
    @luigie2555 Před 2 lety

    Hey, where's Super Mario? 😄 🤣

  • @omarguerrero6417
    @omarguerrero6417 Před 11 měsíci

    No one
    Me:what a flight case

  • @memes_haram
    @memes_haram Před 3 lety

    Peter Baelish looks different here

  • @ranitguha7935
    @ranitguha7935 Před 3 lety

    Are you a german?

  • @ephemere82
    @ephemere82 Před 2 lety

    too small case for the weight imho

    • @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk
      @KaizerPowerElectronicsDk  Před 2 lety +1

      There was no static load calculations done before hand. Just based on cheapest and easiest to get, so yes, they became heavier than they could have been.