Worst ATV I Have Ever Seen! - How to Reassemble a Yamaha Blaster Bottom End Step by Step - Part 5
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- čas přidán 13. 01. 2022
- / wrekkedoffroad / @vermontlife www.buyjimmyabeer.com/
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Parts are in. I take my time rebuilding the bottom end. This video is a good walk through of each part and the order of assembly. I wanted to make a video that doesn't assume prior knowledge and would help anyone who has a basket of pieces they might have grabbed off Craigslist or a friend. It's not the most exciting video I've done unless this is your thing but it just might be one of the best 'everyday man' assembly videos. Stock parts, no 'all shiny and new' and real considerations to run it vs replace are made. I'm not building a showroom race quad but something to get back out and riding on.
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#savesportquads - Zábava
Other then Ken's rebuild videos this is the best I've seen I was putting new crank seals in my motor and when I got my clutch back on I was starring at a extra washer turned out to be the thicker one under the basket thank you so much for the great quality video
“Let’s get things warmed up in here”. *has the door wide open😂 great vid man thanks for the help
I rebuilt crank and clutch and forgot the ball bearing and was about to get another engine until I saw this vid thank you
That’s awesome! glad it helped. It’s one of those things that’s once you know you’ll never miss again.
This tought me so much thank you 😊
Glad it helped.
You just helped me out so much Appreciate it
Awesome, I realized I couldn't find many videos on the subject so I'm glad my making this one helped.
Great video! Thank you
I was recommended to replace the crankshaft bearings but they look hard to take off and put back on. I noticed you had yours still on like I have. Do I have to replace and if not is it hard to put back the 2 crankcases together? Thanks!
If they spin freely and smoothly you should be fine. When I’ve had bad crank bearings there is usually a ‘sticky’ spot when I try to spin the crank because a bearing is burned out. If it feels ‘Grindy’ I’d swap it.
This has taught me so much thank you! But I tested the shift first to see if I had it right but I had to slam it into first gear then shift it up then it went to neutral then I went into second it still went into neutral and then I finally got it into second, 3rd,4th,5th 6th but I don't know why it was hard to get it into second is there a reason why?
Have you looked at your clutch? When I've had hard shifting the clutch basket fingers often have deep grooves worn in them from the clutch friction plate 'ears'. Filing them out smooth really helps. In my latest series rebuilding the Yamaha Big Bear 350 4x4 I cover doing it as I had to stomp on that one as well.
I have a 2001 Yamaha blaster won’t start after full rebuild any suggestions or help Will do
Can you confirm if you have spark, fuel runs through the carb or if you have compression? I’d start by checking for those three things. Was it running and just died? Shoot me a little more info and I’ll take a stab at offering some thoughts.
How do you know if your shift forks are in correctly? Can you spin it with your hand I can’t figure mine out everything moves except 2 and I can’t figure it out. Any help is greatly appreciated
Shift fork 2? hmm. You have it installed... For me things would spin to a certain extent. I never tried to spin indefinitely but everything moved smoothly on the gears etc. In my experience I could only get the shift forks to go in one way. 1 and 3 are on one post and 2 is on the short post. I'm working on another blaster motor now so I'll look a little more closely and see about posting that up.
@@VermontLife I figured it out I had it all right but it really helps to spin the gears clockwise while turning the shift drum since everything kinda needs to be moving for any of it to work.
Awesome! I filmed a segment today on the blaster I’m building that I’ll put up on YT in the future for folks.
How far in do you set the clutch rod do you tighten all the way in then tighten the nut ?
I think you're referring to about the 31:15 point in the video. In my case I did not have to adjust the nut. If I did I would have turned the nut to shorten/lengthen the rod until the 'arrow' on the clutch arm points straight at the mark on the case. I could have shown that clearer on the video. If you do adjust the nut I would hit it with some loctite so it doesn't work out of spec on you after you assemble the case. You can adjust the nut with the more installed by draining the oil and pulling the clutch side cover. I hope that helps.
@@VermontLife yep thanks man i got it pretty close then adjusted the clutch hand lever just a little works pretty good now
Great video!
If I was doing this out automatically just put a new top-end in the engine even if it did run Pryor
Do you know how to remove the snap ring that holds the shift forks on the other side of the crankcase. The transmission stayed in the right side of the crankcase which was a good thing for me because the left side of the crankcase had a hole that we welded in. but now there is a issue of shifting and the shift star is pushed in. Anyways I have to pull out the transmission and find out what is wrong but this snap ring is in my way. If you could help me that would be awesome!
Are you talking about the snap ring on the dowel that holds the lifter forks in? If so I don't remove that, I build from the other side of the case. If you can give me a time stamp of when I have that snap ring on the video I can confirm.
@@VermontLife We are talking about the same clip. It is shown in 9:04. Do you think if I use a crankcase puller on the case that it will pull the transmission and leave it on the left side crankcase. My blaster has been down for a while now. The only thing that is holding me back is that clip. Thank you for the help.
@@fabiogalindo8982 In my experience the transmission fits in rather loosely and will want to fall out of either side of the case. It's the crank that typically is stuck to one side or the other. The crank being stuck on either side hasn't hurt me putting cases back together. Sometimes everything is on one side and sometimes I have to marry the crank side to the transmission. When I've pulled apart the transmission I've usually been able to wiggle the shift drum/star enough to take pressure off the dowels and be able to pull them out with a pair of vice grips. You mentioned the star was a bit pushed in so that might make it tougher. Also, remove the retention arm for the star on the other side of the case to make your life easier. I have also tapped on the star with a rubber mallet to get things moving to pop out the transmission. I've never had to remove that clip to disassemble or reassemble a case. It just keep the dowel from falling all the way through the case but due to where it sits under the forks I can't get at it. I should also say that I have only ever built transmissions with that dowel clip down in the case. I haven't been able to successfully build the transmission into the other side of the case with the clip up. For whatever reason I can't get the shift forks in when I try. I hope this helps.
@@VermontLife I will see if this works. Thanks for the help!
@@VermontLife Thank You! I just hammered out the shift drum and the rest of the transmission came out. Im not sure why the shift drum was pushed in. But all I need to do now is grind down the welds where the cracks are in the case and reasemble in the left side of the crankcase. This video is also very informational and shows every detail. Thank you very much for the help!
That is not a Wesco piston
Thanks, there was no stamp or markings on it. Just the crank had wiseco markings.
Nòòòòòòòò !!!!!!
BUY A USED OEM SHIFTER THOSE CHEAP EBAY ONES SUCK AND STRIP EASY
In hindsight, I totally agree.
Vitos sells them, I just bought one, but haven't put it on yet. Vito's stuff is usually pretty good.
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