How to Quickly Protect from Rust on Car Underbody - WaxOyl
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- čas přidán 16. 05. 2019
- A quick way to preserve the life of your underbody car parts - brake lines suspension, sills etc. Spray with Waxoyl.
Only a short video to give you the rough idea. More extensive rust proofing would involve also injecting into the sills, doors and other body cavities and treating the rust with something like a phosphoric acid based solution.
This was on a BMW MINI cooper S, but it applies to any car.
One extra thing: clean your spray gun (if you are using one) by spaying through a small cup of white spirit after using.
Get your Waxoyl treatment here in liquid cans or aerosol spray cans, on Amazon UK: amzn.to/2W9Hb2z
Or ebay U.K.: ebay.us/uexnLX
Or ebay USA: ebay.us/mgHIkL
Also see the above links for the airline spray gun for Waxoyl/Shultz if you are using an airline, otherwise use the aerosol Waxoyl cans.
Here is the face mask I used from
Amazon UK: amzn.to/2GHE9d6
Similar ones on Amazon USA & others: amzn.to/2IHmip1
Eye goggles: Amazon UK: amzn.to/2IUSqos
Amazon USA & others: amzn.to/2GAtIXJ
Rubber disposible gloves are also useful, here's the links for
eBay USA: ebay.us/GGqmTJ
eBay UK: ebay.us/cE1BHK
Amazon UK: amzn.to/3aikbl8
Amazon USA & others: amzn.to/3cdwjpD
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We need more Uk CZcamsrs, straight to the point and so many tips and information.
Nice comment, thanks.
You are correct
We don't want 10 minutes of small talk before a poor demonstration 😂
Im in the process of doing this to my 2006 Toyota Corolla which has quite a few areas of surface corrosion underneath. I'm glad to see it is fine to spray this product over surface rust as long as it has been wired brushed and cleaned. At first I thought I would have to get down to clean metal which would of been a ton of preparation work. Thankfully not the case.
Yep, it's good for quick preservation. Well worth doing.
Excellent straight forward to the point video. Well done. About to get under my motorhome to see where I mouse has entered the van. Good excuse to Waxoyl while I am there.
Thanks. Good luck.
Had mice in our motorhome - couldn't work it work where they got in, but then read that they can get in through a hold no thicker than a pencil...so could be lots of places , bunged them all up with wire wool as they dont like earring through that. Job sorted.
I'm going to do this before the winter .. It looks the job tbh !
Yes, worth doing.
Love that you said don't spray it on the brake disks just as you sprayed it onto the brake disk😂😂
I had to go and check - nah it was ok as the brake backing plate protected the disc, but nonetheless something to watch out for. Wipe off with white spirit if affected.
@@comeinhandynow Better to wipe off with brake cleaner, as white spirit leaves an oily residue...
@@amana1480 Probably right but its good enough as long as you wipe if off as well.
nice! my car needs the same!
Cheers. Good luck with yours, a good time to do these jobs with good weather and more time available.
Well done. Exactly what I wanted to see. Straight ahead.
Cheers
Good video buddy, straight to the point & informative 👍🏻
Thanks
Used waxoyl for years. Only brand I’ll use
Me too.
I have a 2008 avensis with rusty subframes
I'm going to do this lol
I'm not sure how waxoyl dries but found these sort of protectors can also trap the moisture below the undercoating. But nonetheless I still undercoat too. Well worth it.
Yep, always do it when the car is very dry.
@@comeinhandynow Now I thought that rather obvious !!
Hi, just wondered if waxyoil dries or is it always a bit tacky having wax and oil in the name? Just thinking it would attract dust?
Thanks 😊
Nice one..good informative vid
Thanks
DOG NOSE! so cute
Good video. I don't put old engine oil in because it makes the waxoyl black: you can't see when rust re-starts if the oil is black. However I've never, ever ever had rust restart under clear waxoyl. There might be better stuff out there but I haven't found it. Brush it on / spray it on - it's great. Get the extender hose to spray in cavities too.Being see-through you can satisfy yourself no rust is re-starting and both my classic VW bus and modern cars are done - no rust anywhere.Buy some now - don't delay putting it on. Then wax polish the bodywork to stop pin-prick holes becoming blisters. Then keep on top of the oil changes and keep away from mechanics - they always break your car. Fix it yourself....
Good advice, although I like the look of black Waxoyl.
Ha! Yes it does look better I do agree! At Busfest I had a look to see what other classic VW owners had done and yes, the black look was the most common (apart from the concourse Trailer-Queens with body-colour painted undersides).I've spent so many hours taking off solidified, hard underseal with rust behind it I have a fear of the black stuff! You know what I mean re the solid underseal?I might start using your method in the wheel arches though as they are so visible.
@@mopedinthemalverns6661 How did you get the underseal off? My car is coated in TetraSchutz, and I can see rust coming through it. I'd like to get it back to metal, and coat it with something that I can easily remove, and is transparent enough to show the development of future rust. I have some trepidation about the amount of effort involved in getting the old coating off!
Hmmm - I've had to resort to scraping / wire brushing and using white spirit - it's a rancid job. Sorry can't be of more use. The scraping gave me tennis elbow - no really it did! The underseal will scrape off easily on the rusty bits - rust is useful in that respect. I used a wood chisel - do wear gloves and glasses though - chisels are damned sharp. Don't lose sleep over getting is totally back to the metal though. Best of luck.
@@dalriada842 Getting the old hardened underseal off I 've used a combination of 1" paint scraper with a hot air gun used for removing old paint on wood, wire brushes in drills and also sanding flap style discs, very very important to use eye protection, took a whole day to remove old underseal on my Beetle many years ago but worth the effort.
Sitting watching videos trying too get info about the best product too use for protecting a friends car what we are rebuilding. While watching this video I see the cat out of the corner of my eye when it run off I looked up in my garden too see where it at gone 😂
Wow, really glad i came across this video. I ve been looking at loads, a product called Lanoguard, and others, but this seems to be the one, seems as you ve answered nearly every question i had already in your comments section too! Plus i ve just discovered it on eBay, very reasonable price, even in spray cans, and a job i think i could take on myself, with all the tips i ve read right here. Just one thing, i see your fortunately still uploading, can you advice me, would it be a good idea to remove the wheels maybe and cover the discs with rags or something? Very good informative video, clearly explained , and filmed.,. Top job.. I m a new sub!! Its this old school advice that is invaluable.... Thankyou
Thanks. You can leave the wheels on but taking off will give better access tto suspension bits. And yes guard the brake discs from the waxoyl. If you do get some on the discs wipe it off with a rag and solvent, methylated spirit is what i use (ethanol).
@@comeinhandynow Good point, i hadnt considered, i think i ll go with taking them off as i ve a trolly jack so easy enough, and yes, more access to parts i might not get at otherwise.. I think i have a can of brake and clutch cleaner left over , from another top tip off here on YT on cleaaning oil off my drive with that and cat litter. That would do it wouldnt it, or is it for a different part of the braking system? I m no mechanic, but if it seems do-able, i ll have a go, if i have the tools etc needed. Or stick to what you suggested, the meth spirit, i ve just found it cheap enough on eBay, small enough bottles for camping stoves etc? Your earlier prompt reply is very much apreciated, if u could get back to me on my last querie, i think i m on top of this job, and just need a sunny day now...I know times getting on, so anytime over the weekend or in the week will be great, as i m not about to do this job tomorrow morning...Prob be April before i get any sign of a sunny day here in S Wales!! I ll say it again, i m very happy to have come across your page, spotting the axles etc from behind, rusty looking was starting to really annoy the last few weeks.... Also looking forward to going through your many years of knowledge in your uploads.. Cant thank you enough....
@@thedjreffahow did you get on, any tips for someone looking to do the same?
excellent product ! Used it on my Saab 9.3 Aero 6 years ago - no rust has started anywhere 😊 another advantage is that bolts come undone very easily if needed ?
Good to know.
Thanks a lot for the video!! I am in the process of using jenolite waxoyl (aerosol spray) is there any part of the underbody where I should not spray other than exhaust and brake disks? Thanks a lot in advance!
Can’t think of anything else critical. I wouldn’t do engine, gearbox or diff or any visible bodywork.
So when this dries out it protects it also from sand and stuff ? Or it's just something waxy that will wash off in time from power wash ?
If it is pure Waxoyl it dries quite firm and will not wash off. Even if you add 10% oil, which makes it softer, it will stay on but sand may stick to it perhaps.
Had my Land Rover discovery D4 waxolyed kinda professionally when it was new,now at fives years old I have a compressor and the gun its going to be done again as soon as the weather lets me.
Good to do if you’re keeping the car many years. A messy job though, so park it over a tarpaulin to catch the drips.
Without arguing if it's the best product out there, definitely this spray gun is not worth much without 90° extension wand. Whatever you spray its paramount to ensure full coverage. With only spray gun you won't be able to apply product between elements and main body.
Yes, that would be a good add on. I’ve an add on hose with a 360 degree spray end for cavities etc. but a 90 head sounds a good idea as well. Got any ebay/amazon buy links?
@@comeinhandynow I did it myself, wanted extra long. Thin aluminium tube bent and flattened at the end attached to an oryginal 360° hose. But there must be many to choose from on the internet.
I use the paint on waxoil. Zinc spray for exhaust and high two Ares
Good stuff
Thank you
You're welcome
Don't use a hot air gun to heat it a bucket of hot/boiling water does the job just as well.
This is also suitable for aerosol cans but don't get any in the nozzle.
Thanks for the comment but for a 5L can of waxoyl that I often use you would have to use a large volume of hot water. I have been using a hot air gun for years without incident but I would say that you should do it carefully. Keep an eye on the solution, mnake sure the lid is off and stir it frequently until it is liquified nicely. You wouldn't want to over heat it.
At risk of asking dumb question, can I paint it on? Can a compressor spray unit be hired? I’m assuming it can (who would have one at home?). How did you heat it?
Yes you can paint it on. Yes you can hire compressors. Useful to have one at hone for spraying, tire inflation and this job. Heat with a hot air gun.
@@comeinhandynow Thanks, very helpful, much appreciated. 👍 I don’t have a hot air gun so I’ll stand my can of Waxoyl in a tin of warm/hot water to heat it. Same result, but slower.
I thin mine down with white spirt and spray on with garden hand sprayers
Good idea. Also try adding a bit of old oil to keep it from drying out.
Hard to answer question i know! But any guidance would be appreciated. How much corrosion is too much to Waxoyl over?
If it looks like it is more rust than metal left in its thickness then replace it, for example the lower suspension arms (wishbones), those are cheap to replace. Another video on that soon!
Otherwise scrap off any loose rust and waxoyl it. The add of old engine oil into the waxoyl helps it penetrate bad rust. Add 10% to warmed up waxoyl and shake to mix.
@@comeinhandynow Thannks, do you know what would happen if waxoyl was just put over the corrosion with no clean up first?
Just more danger of the rust flaking off carrying the waxoyl with it.
Always best to use a wire brush, then rust treatment, black satin hammerite then waxoyl for extra longevity and protection.
Thanks for your comments. The key word in the title is “Quickly” and doing all your steps is not quick. The addition of engine oil to the waxoyl and heating it makes it a quick job as you can skip the hammerite, rust treatment and most of the wire brushing (do just enough scrapping to remove the loose bits) since the oil makes it penetrate much more and stay much softer and long lasting.
what specs for air compressor cfm , volume? is 3 gallon 1hp ok?
A cheapo one will do as its not critical. That’s what I have.
Brilliant video 😎
Do I need to warm the wax oil before spraying 🤔
Thanks. Yes definitely.
Why is it necessary to protect the exhaust pipe?
Oily wax on hot exhaust pipe = lots of smoke when it gets hot, may be even a fire risk (not sure if it would combust or not, never seen that happen). So just best to keep it off the exhaust.
What exactly is the "air line" tool that you use? Are they expensive?
Something like this amzn.to/3jGevJY
But you need an air compressor to power it. If you don't have one then you can get aerosol spray cans of waxoyl instead.
Wish you were close , I would pay you to do it , did you say add 10% engine oil? Take you mean new oil . My vehicle has quite buildup of road dirt that needs removed first , should I pressure wash , if so how long you leave van before spraying the waxoil
Yes about 10% seems about right. Pressure wash or just the hose. Leave a few days at least in dry weather until it all looks dry. It’s a messy job. I wouldn’t want to do it for others, but it is well worthwhile.
@@comeinhandynow I'll just use the hose then and I'll hand paint the waxoil on :) don't have an airline
@@lookoutleo They do sell aerosol spray cans of waxoyl: amazon UK: amzn.to/3xk41Ea
If you dont have access to a air line can u do it without one?
Yes, you can get waxoyl in aerosol cans. This is Amazon UK: amzn.to/30XwUuA
Buddy. Were you spraying over the rust, or just giving it a quick brush to get the flakes off?
Quick brush to get the flakes off and then spray over. The oily wax partly converts the rust but mostly just seals it in and arrests further corrosion. The key thing in this video is 'quick'.
i use the clear waxoyl that ya brush on,& then i spray hard to reach areas with supertrol,that is simlar to waxoyl,
How much would I need to cover the whole underbody ,is 5ltr can enough for the job also can you use the weed sprayer to do the job as well .What do you think my mind says yes
Also how long as yours lasted
Kind regards
5ltr should be enough, but depends on the car size. I’ve not tried a weed sprayer, probably it would cool down too much and block up. It lasts a few years, but check and reapply on any spots where underlying rust has flaked off every few years.
Maybe with what you were saying and that is best to keep in very hot water and transfer small amounts at a time etc
How long does it take to dry etc
Would you jet wash first and then let it dry and then apply
Kind regards
Would you recommend this as a preventive measure for a brand new car??
Yes, on steel parts underneath. I wouldn’t add extra oil in that case as there is no rust to penetrate into.
Why should not apply on brake and exhaust systems?
It will stop your brakes from working properly. You need friction in brakes. Waxoyl is lubricating so not what you want. If on exhaust it will make a lot of smoke when it gets hot and is a risk for fire.
Does WaxOyl come off if you use pressure washer with hot water ?
Because I understand it is like a wax or more like hard paint ? Thanks.
It is more like a wax a bit like candle wax. If you hose with hot water a lot then yes some will remove. Not normally that much of a problem.
Don't you use a rust converter first?
No, no need with that product.
First Clean Please!
Yes, of course.
I cannot find waxoyl in Greece
Try amazon uk link to see if one of the sellers ships to greece.
Out of interest, what gun did you use?
This sort amzn.to/3qBaciC
Not wheel cover? Driveway etc...
Yep cover everything you don’t want sprayed in oily wax. Including yourself!
Do not mix old engine oil or diesel in with it. It penetrates fine as is and all you're doing is stopping it from curing properly by adding that. Engine oil, despite what people think, is nigh on useless at preventing rust too. Other than that. Good video. :)
Thanks, however if you have ever had an old car that leaks oil, you will discover that oil soaked metal, even bare metal, never rusts. It stops water and air getting to the surface. Having done Waxoyl coatings for many years I found that after many years it can dry out and on heavily rusty areas that haven’t had all the rust removed it wont penetrate down to the surface and the rust and Waxoyl then just flake off eventually. Adding oil helps, but you are right it won’t fully dry. Which is why I do it.
@@comeinhandynow I know it can stop rust to a certain degree, as you say, leaky old baskets get protection from it somewhat when it's lagged on the underside. 😂 But it also has combustion acids and contaminants in it that I wouldn't want to spray on the underside of a car too, especially if it's from a derv. It's also not great on pre rusted metal as it won't neutralise it completely. I didn't word it well to be fair, I was more concerned about diluting the rust protection in the Waxoyl as well. I've never had Waxoyl peel or flake, and for better penetration, rather than use diesel or oil, I dilute with something that will "flash off" like parrafin or white spirit. Get all the penetration you need as it's much thinner, it lets it dry so you don't have a bit of a soggy mess, and I've never had an issue with it ever peeling or flaking off. Plus as the carrier evaporates, it's technically not "diluting" the Waxoyl either.
I must thank you for your other videos that you've done on your MG ZS by the way. I have a 180 and the rear brake and VIS videos were a very handy reference to know what tools to prepare and so I didn't run into anything unexpected. Really good videos and certainly helped me.
@@Spac8 Cheers and thanks for your input.
I've never had an engine rot from the issue out🤣🤣🤣
Should you wire brush first ? You are just dealing on rust right
Just remove any loose rust or flakes with a wire brush or scraping tool then spray over remaining rust. The oil stops it progressing.
Can you paint it on?
Yes
Does it really cure the surface rust as they say?
I wouldn’t use the word cure, but it does seal it in and stop it getting worse. The same as if you dipped a rusty nail in oil, it would stop further rust.
@@comeinhandynow
Totally agree 👍
I have a Toyota hiace 2006 and looking underneath it looks very similar to the car in the video. I sure will be getting a compressor and a waxoyl kit with gun and can.
Thank you for the simple short quick and easy video. Help protect our cars from UK's winters 👍
@@happyemojilearning2866 Cheers
i used the pray can version , it looked great after 12 months later i looked under the car and its all gone wtf!
That shouldn’t happen. I can only guess that the can wasn’t warm enough and shaken up enough to get a good mix of the wax and maybe mostly it was the solvent getting sprayed out. It is worth getting a compressor and using those spray guns shown to deliver it and then you can add extra oil into the mix for extra penetration and longevity.
Waxoyl is out! Raptor liner is better as it’s dry and doesn’t hold moisture like waxoyl in the uk
Thanks for your input, I am sure raptor is fine on clean not rusty metal, but I use waxoyl because it doesn't dry, especially as I add extra oil! Then on any bits where the underlying paint flakes off the waxoyl will creep over the exposed surface. Or you can just spread it with a glove easily.
Why not spray the exhaust?
Because you are spraying wax and oil on it which will create a lot of smoke when the exhaust gets hot and could even catch fire.
Scrape off loose rust and paint or spray on burned oil to the underbody/chassis
every bit as good and costs nothing but time, park somewhere where you won't mind it dripping some oil though for a while.
Yes, but for a small amount of money you can buy waxoyl that olds the oil on the body, rather then drip on your drive for weeks.
@@comeinhandynow I am going to try it your way this time, might be less drippy alright👍
Cover your driveway first it you don’t want it everywhere afterwards
Agree. I had an old sheet down. A big sheet of tarpaulin would be better.
Put 3 foot rubber hose on pick up pipe happy days alot easier
I’ve not tried that. I guess that works ok in warm weather. It may clog up a bit by the wax cooling off in the long hose in colder weather.
@@comeinhandynow heat with heat gun for 30 mins works a dream
dog likes it ha
Dont spray on discs and pads seconds later sprays them 🤣ffs
The back of the brake disc is protected by a backing plate, so not as bad as it looks!
DO NOT do it this way 🤣🤦🏻♂️ all your doing is covering rust. Please if your going to this sort of trouble ALWAYS TREAT THE RUST FIRST. Something like ‘Kurust’ put it into a spray bottle,take off any splash guards or inner wheel liners etc wire brush for loose rust then over the lot with kurust. Then again. And Then the wax oil undercoat. 2 coats. Put it all back together and then a once over with acf50 👍🏼
Sure that is better, but you missed the key word here: “quickly”. This waxoyl plus oil solution soaks into the rust sealing it against further oxidation/ rust, for at least a few years. Just reapply now and again as needed. A lot quicker over the years. Done it lots of times. You can do the whole car in a couple of hours instead of days the traditional way.
Total CRAAAAAAAP. Rust starts Inside. U need to get inside.. strip the interior. I do this for a living. WORST product on the market. Formula was changed a few years ago...
No internal protection.
No wire wheel
No rust "converter"
No paint
U just have hidden it all
Underseal is the last step
You don’t understand how rust happens!!! It needs air and water. You exclude both by this covering, especially with my suggested addition of a small amount of oil. Yes remove what loose rust you can first. But the rust left is sealed in with the wax / oil. And you miss the point in the title, this is a QUICK way to prevent rust. AND it works. There is no further rust progression on the treated parts on this exact car nearly 2 years later. So as a QUICK method to arrest progress of rust, it WORKS.
I’ve used this for years on old cars. It may need some topping up after a few years, but as a QUICK method to prevent rust it is effective.
The more thorough wire wheeling, sanding, converting, painting and undersealing is very time consuming and it is not worth the time and effort on cheap, old cars, so people won’t do it. I have done it on more valuable old classic cars however. This is an alternative QUICK way to stop rust.
Additionally Waxoyl does have a rust converter in it. Product description: “ Waxoyl is a thick, waxy fluid saturated with very powerful rust killer. Killing off old rust and preventing new rust, protect your car by simply spraying it on to metal. ”
@@comeinhandynow lol been in business for years. Booked up till May already this year...I only deal with rust. Nothing else.
@@andyvaid69 Lol. I’ve been restoring and working on cars for decades. Move on and get back to work. You completely missed the point I was trying to make.
@@comeinhandynow me to 1987 started..
@@andyvaid69 Lol I was working on cars in 1977! I win.
Good video. I assume its best to remove all the survface rust before spraying.
Only the loose stuff, not necessary to sand down.