A guide to applying rust prevention treatment to a T2 Bay
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
- A short guide covering the basics of applying rust prevention treatment using a Waxoyl High Pressure Sprayer / Applicator:
www.justkampers.com/waxoyl-hi... - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Very good video, your techniques are equally applicable to cars with a little common sense adaptation. Many people don't realise that vehicles mainly rust from the inside out - unless chipped paint goes unattended, but that is easy to see and check. In the U.K. Spring and Autumn are prime times when condensation forms on your vehicle overnight. This condensation forms inside the panels too, where it goes unseen. A waxy prevention is very effective against this sort of attack.
Moisture in the door or tailgate may not be from a window seal.
It is really important to have a vapour barrier which is normally behind the door card. Older vehicles didn't have them.
I am talking about the thin plastic skin that is stuck with a bead of non setting sealant.
When you drive around, you have the heater on, you breath out moist air, because the air is warm in holds that moisture but when in reaches inside the doors and hits the colds metal door skin it condenses and leads to rust. That is what the vapour barrier is there to prevent. It is very important to retro fit it to older vehicles
Great tip thanx
Exactly what im looking for... How long does this treatment last before you need to re apply ? also does it kill existing rust if so, what ingredient kills the rust ?
Sensible methods well explained. I don't think you'll find "goopy" in any tech manual though.
Great - yes you have saved that van. Imagine if ALL buses had been waxoyled from new. My Type25 smells permanently of waxoyl but a "Wax a day keeps the welder at bay"...
Thanks for the video. Does it stay wet or does it dry like paint?
I’m using clear Hammerite waxoyl + Hammerite canister but struggling to get it to flow as thickness due to 12 degree temp is an issue 😬
Morris Lubricants Ankor Wax is a solvent deposited, general purpose medium to long term rust preventative with water displacing properties." is what he is using - it has solvent mixed in.
Did you mix the wax oil in thinners? Before you spray
the wax he used has solvent premixed in it.
I hope you changed the original window seal to stop water getting in :-)
does it stay wet like that or dry up?
It dries up and creates a solid wax coating.
A compressor is vital for waxoyl, Those pump up waxoyl bottles you can buy are next to useless, I have had the waxoyl runny like water , poured it into a bottle (bottle and pipe warmed up in hot water) pumped it up and within five minutes the nozzle has blocked up.
If it helps we normal warm up the can first, can be done with heat gun or hot water. But will absorb the heat better in a metal can. Hope that helps.
@@justkampers I did keep everything in hot water including the plastic bottle ....the waxoyl was as runny as water, but within 5 mins the nozzle had blocked up.
Just put the Nozzlin in som hot watere@@WildPhotoShooter
@@WildPhotoShooter try mix with solvent
@@voidisyinyangvoidisyinyang885 I will try some solvent when I put another coat on this summer, I was always reluctant to thin the waxy down but if that's what needs to be done I'll give it a go. 👍🏻
Why not use a 100% natural oil?
What brand of wax is that?
Ankor Wax - www.justkampers.com/morris-ankor-wax-5-litres.html
@@justkampers Ah, I thought your Waxoyl was a funny colour. :) I've been doing my Renault Fluence today. Even with the temperature at 24 C, I have to keep the waxoyl, pump and hoses in a bucket of boiling water between goes, or the hose blocks uo. BTW, when you were drilling holes, couldn't you just have removed one of those bolts? :)
@@jamesknightreading "Morris Lubricants Ankor Wax is a solvent deposited, general purpose medium to long term rust preventative with water displacing properties." no wonder it works!! solvent mixed in.