My VAPOR BLASTING SECRETS - HOW to Vapor Blast & Make Aluminum Dirt Bike Parts Look Better Than New
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- Äas pĆidĂĄn 9. 06. 2024
- My VAPOR BLASTING SECRETS - How to Vapor Blast & Make Aluminum Dirt Bike Parts Look Better Than New
đTIMESTAMPSđ
0:00 Epic metal into (as always) & today's topic / prepping cases for blasting
16:28 Dry & vapor blasting, pressures, media types, results, differences
If you loved this video, or learned something new - Please share it! - I'd be stoked if you did đ„
I can't think of another video that actually EXPOSES real media types, blast pressures or necessary equipment. I hope it helps you on your Vapor Blasting journey!
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#mXrevival #VaporBlasting #MediaBlasting - Sport
I love your attitude about sharing the knowledge. I found this video while doing a late night search for vapor blasting tips and different blasting guns. Thank you for doing this video. I do vapor blasting on all the bikes I restore and I know I can always learn something new đ
My pleasure Tony. Definitely always something to learn. You might like this video as well, as I have some more technique in it as well as some other dirt bike restoration tricks: czcams.com/video/FN6H1P4DP0M/video.html
Thanks for watching
*VAPOR BLASTING UPDATE! Here's an all new Vapor Video with updated settings & equipment for you guys!* czcams.com/video/J5aR3EKKPWM/video.html
Well explained video! I have a small Powdercoating oven I put my cases in, set at 200 degrees f and 95% of the time, the bearings fall out. I do the same in reverse, freeze the new bearings, heat the cases in the oven and they fall right in. I have heard from engine builders that spot heat can cause case warpage due to the unevenness of the heat for what itâs worth. For blasting, I use Ballotini beads, 170-325 mesh. They suggest no more than 60 psi working pressure as the beads will crush and be more like using crushed glass. For vapor honing, the cfm is more important than the psi. Try to us 18 cfm as a minimum. I run at 35 psi in my wet cabinet and use the same very fine 170-325 beads. I enjoy your videos!
I just read similar about the glass beads from a company, recommending not to go over 50 psi as it can fracture the ball shaped beads into sharper objects and embed into the Aluminum or cut instead of peen.....
Why didn't SOMEBODY TELLL SOMEBODY!!! GAHHHH
Awesome video! I have been vapor blasting for about 5 years now. Wish I was able to watch something like this back then. Learned all the tricks the hard way. Trial and error. Iâll have to post a video of my current set up. I now have 2 dry blast cabinets and 2 vapor blast cabinets to make the process more efficient.
Oh man you're not playing! I feel your pain though... About 2 years in myself.
I would say I've wasted a lot of money on different media, and a lot of time doing it wrong. But that would be an accurate because every minute I spent buying the wrong media, testing it, or spending hours with my face pressed against the glass of this thing were priceless lessons. Just like the ones you got.
Still getting better too đ
Thanks for watching, I appreciate it.
@@mxrevival Yes! well said. "Face pressed against the glass" had me laughing out loud. thank you!
Man, can't get enough of your video's. Thank you for sharing your wealth of info, you're a huge inspiration to many including me! đ
Too cool, I really appreciate that. Thank you for watching and I'll try and keep the good ones coming
Charles. Yes! Really good video man. Love the attitude. Love the music. And most of all, I particularly love how you incorporate your philosophy, to make a, could have been dull video, much more dynamic. Calming, & peaceful. I'm building a cafe racer here in NW Iowa. Thanks for the sharing of knowledge.
Thanks dude! I appreciate the feedback & kind words đ„ Happy to help with your racer anytime if you need vapor or zinc plating done. Those are awesome. I had a 77 (or 75?) Yamaha RD350 for a bit and got to know what a cafe racer was in the most basic sense back then. Thanks for watching!
Brother, you are a true inspiration. Pretty soon I will start my little company in South America. Awesome tutorial video . Thanks a million! Blessing all the way!
Ok I tried it on my vapor blasting machine and thank you so much. I was way off on my pressure. I started at like 40psi and went up from there. 20 ish is the ticket! I took one of the parts I recently blasted and threw it back in and itâs so beautiful! Thank you!
That is such awesome news! Really glad to help out. It's tough sometimes because you want to do the part as quickly as possible, and the high PSI will cut faster. But as you now know, it robs the part of the shine that we are all after with vapor blasting.
I just dropped a new vapor blasting how to video pretty recently, because I've gotten better at it. I also have some new tooling inside the cabinet that brought the shine up even more quickly, while also working faster.
That video is called "blast like a pro" and I think you'll like it
Good approach to your own video.. Offering to help people doesn't always result in applause.. Thanks for making this!
Thanks! Always practicing, always getting better. Thank you for watching
Great video and these cases look incredible!!! Nice work and I have to say the music on your channel is awesome!!
Thanks Eric! I appreciate ya
If you donât damage impacted screws, and they have loctite, preheat to 100 degrees C (212 F). They can be reused, a bit of heat will allow them to be reused and re-loctite them. Sometimes old stuff is unobtanium.
Cool tip! Thanks for watching!
You're the man Charles! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with everyone else. Mucho apreciado man.
Will always do my best!!
I built my vaporblaster out of an old Econoblast venturi cabinet and use a sump pump on 4" spacers in a 5 gallon bucket under it as my pump and supply bucket and the spray just runs out into it. I am lucky to work the past 30 years at a shot peen company doing Aerospace peening and I get free barely used AGB-9 ( old US Size12) glass bead media ( Bell Helicopter makes us throw it away every 3 hours ). I find that if I add a cup of 220 grit Aluminum Oxide to my slurry, it will cut any paint or gasket materials and no affect my final finish much. Thanks for sharing ! BTW, I use mine restoring vintage Z50's and CT70's . I pre-clean engines in my hot pressure wash machine like they use for transmissions for cars.
This is awesome! I love comments that add value to the video. Thanks brotha! Cool build & great tip. Thanks for watching too đ -Charles // mXrevival
i've watch this video 3 times now, I polish and customize stuff for a living, i vapour blast very interesting seeing your ideas
Wow that is looking next level professional đ„đȘ
Gracias! I'll keep digging for even better settings for us
Man I've been waiting for a video to explain this big thanks
Fantastic job Charles. I really enjoyed it. Great music. Take good care my friend!
Thank you Brotha đ
You know that was a very thorough video especially getting the bearings out and the way you explained it was very straightforward and simple. Well done make more content!
I appreciate the compliment and your viewership. Happy new year!
Fantastic video, thanks for taking the time to make it and share knowledge.
I'm looking to purchase a wet blaster myself and would proberably run a 2 stage setup like yourself (dry blast first) as I have a dry blaster with AO for Cerakote prep.
If I can offer any bit of help/advise it would be:
I purchased a rubber mat for inside my cabinet, it stops parts getting marked up on the metal mesh.
Subscribed and love the music choice for the vids too đ€
Thank you metal brother! Glad to do it, and surprised somebody else had not yet. I have a little bit more technique explanation as I've gotten better at it and one of my more recent videos If it interests you. It's the video of the CR 500 swing arm restoration from about 2 weeks ago.
The two stage setup is so awesome especially when I need to keep extra dirt or debris out of the wet blast. I can run a little bit more aggressive media in the dry blast to peel zinc coatings off of Hardware to be restored, and even use it to get dirt and grease out of nut threads. Then the vapor blaster can bring the surface finish well enough to shine if I stop there on prep before a zinc plating for example.
Your tip is a good one! The wet blaster came with a plastic base, so that has been really good for keeping things scratch free. Still not as good as your tip about the rubber mat.
Thanks for watching and thanks for adding some value in the comments for others. đ„
Cool stuff! Your video was the main reason I built myself a vapor blasting cabinett. Thanks man!
Badass! Thanks for watching đ
Very informative bro and the slide hammer is the perfect tool I bought one to use when I did the rear linkages and bearings in the 06 RM and it helped a ton.
Exactly! Perfect for those "one way in one way out" bearings đ Glad you enjoyed & thanks for watching
Cheers! Nice vid. Thanks for taking the time.
I follow you on social media and always love watching your videos and projects, always good info and tips and very informative. Keep them coming. SOUTH WALES CERAKOTE COATINGS.
Late to the video but That black tool your using to help clean is an ESD Nylon Probe. I used them at work while doing work with Circuit boards, never thought to use it in the shop lol. Awesome Informative Video.
Very informative video Parts look awesome... I have a couple questions
1. What size nozzles do you use in the guns on the dry blaster and as well in the wet blaster?
2. Do you have to put any clear coat on the aluminum afterwards so it doesn't oxidize?
Same question I have. I wonder if you have to clear coat them after
very impressive vapor blasting, again great for 100 point restorations,GREAT VIDEO!!!
So glad you loved it, Mike! Thanks for watching! -Charles // mXrevival
Thank you so much. I appreciate your instruction, and will put it to good use
You are very welcome Mike
I know this vid is 2 years old but great content. I an considering getting into vapor blasting but never thought sbout the dry blasting first.
I need to watch more.
Another awesome video. Thank you. Do you avoid blasting surfaces where bearings seat?
Very welcome, thanks for the positive feedback. It depends.
I cleaned the insides of these (with the glass bead) because they needed it badly. Rust trains & such. The glass is pretty gentle on the parts but it CAN change the surface of the part, so you wouldn't want to run it too hard for too long.
Aluminum oxide for example would cut hard and fast & while the part would probbly be ok- same thing, just be gentile. Then there's soda, which literally does nothing to a part's surface.
So again, it just depends. You won't have any issues. đ Unless you fail to get all the bead out of bolt holes, etc and they end up in your rebuilt engine.... No bueno
When you run into screws with loctite on them, just use some heat also.
The heat softens the glue making it easier to remove.
Love the video.
Yes exactly! They were nice and hot from torching the hell out of the crank bearings, etc đ thanks for watching bro!
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing the tips! I use a mix of glass and al oxide in my vapor blaster. It gives a nice finish, but I don't think its as "chromed" as yours. I am restoring an old z car, and the vapor blaster has been my go to tool for lots of different surfaces. I have even done plastics like electrical connectors on low psi. Really brings them back to life. All the best!
Hey thank you, and you're very welcome! That's great news. Moving to all glass bead, if it suits you, will give you the Chrome! Thanks for taking your time to watch, the vapor blasters are awesome
Thank you for keeping the 2 strokes alive, great video so satisfying to watch. Please can you tell me what song/band that was playing in the intro. Happy new year from the uk.
Awesome dude thanks for the badass content đ€ đ„
Very welcome, thanks for watching
awesome work on your video production and beautiful job on the cases
Appreciate that, always trying!
Looks amazing
Great to see your helping a good industry
When you are OCD you will always be busy.
really great video. Fantastic narration and camera work
I appreciate you! Check out today's new video with some crazier vapor blasting results! czcams.com/video/NctaPM2zfb8/video.html You'll have to let me know if the camera skills have improved too đ -Charles // mXrevival
Thank you for all the tips, great video.
My pleasure, thank you for watching đ
Really appreciate the video. Interested in the process you do to ensure all media is completely gone before assembly.
You're welcome, thanks for watching Tristen. You can simply use compressed air to blast out all the cavities. You can also put bolts into all the threaded holes before you blast if you wanted. Another way to do it is to rinse the part really well. Sometimes a combination of all three.
Lots of useful information thank you
Great video, I learnt a lot from it.
What finish would you put on it?
I'm building a mud mower that has a gearbox that is white from oxidation.
Thanks for sharing. Scotland
Your setup is dope. Great video thanks for the knowledge
Thank you very much David, I appreciate you watching
Charles my man! Thanks for going in depth here. I need to incorporate the low low pressure in the vapor blaster to get more of a shine at the end. I donât have the sand blaster so I need to run my vapor blaster at a higher PSI at first (60 psi +). But now after learning to go low with the pressure to give it that shine, Iâm pumped!
How long per each case side are you spending at that low pressure? (On average, because Iâm sure there are a bunch of variables). Thank you sir!
You're welcome. I "suffered" for a few years so I thought this could be a nice video for some!
If you want a dry blast cabinet, there are a lot of really great & cheap smaller units that are perfect for dirt bike parts. It's not necessary, but I like having the dry blast to make sure even less debris gets into the wet cabinet to preserve the media even more.
As for time, man it's hard to say. It still takes quite a while (dry blast moves that along faster as well, pre-wet) and can still be hours before you really get the shine to where you'd like it to be. Esp. if you still have blast lines that end up sending the part back in (from the 60PSI).
*_Can't remember if I mentioned it in the video but you can try this:_*
-Your 60 PSI blast/ cut - close range, paying attention to blast angles when you can (45 degree average)
-Same 60 PSI with gun pulled back, to "blend". Just sweep the part gently, everywhere, whit the gun 4" away or so. Take your time. You'll get a feel for it. This will even-up the whole part. After this blend stage you could technically be done depending on what the job was. Should be very even finish now.
-Next is low PSI pass. If you feel like it's taking forever, don't worry. It's normal. When you're sick of blasting and getting antsy or your feet start to hurt- keep going. That's your first hurdle to overcome in order to get the shine you thought you were getting when you bought a vapor blaster in the first place đ 20-30PSI, watch your gun angles, stay close to the part and do the "blend" all over again when you're done.
Somewhere between all that above and a mix of DIY, you'll find your happy place and variables that may make my instructions differ from your results due to variables like your compressor and specific cabinet.
Vapor blasting is all about patience & the rewards are on the other side of that. That's what I've learned.
Get it Greggy!
@@mxrevival anddd dropping even more knowledge in this response! You the man Charles, much appreciated. You can get parts to look "great" with a stardard process but man if you really want them to shine like you did, going over and above on them is definitely worth the time and effort. Can't wait to get out there and get to some testing asap! Cheers dude!
Great video! đ€
Glad you enjoyed it!
Outstanding outlook on sharing experiences and insights you have gained.
It's sad how so many try to keep knowledge from others for the purpose of profit.
Thanks dude! That's the old world, doesn't work like that anymore. As soon as people figure out that sharing what they know is more impactful, they will also realize that it earns them more business anyways. Pretty cool!
Not only that, I'm not always right. So putting that out there ends up being good for learning when I am corrected as well
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Youâre very welcomeđȘ you might like part two of this video. Iâm always learning & getting better so I try to share when I get a good enough level up
Great video... learned a lot âŒïž
I'm very glad, Thomas!
Great video, I have both a dry and wet blaster both home made from parts and they kinda like fishing you can have great days and bad days (doesn't help my work requirements change all the time so its a lot of media changes) but glass where i live is easy to come by but does require extra safety as you said (inhale that stuff and get silica poisoning or worse die cause it gets in your blood stream)
Thanks for the upload :)
That's cool! And thank you for watching.
I definitely love having both and I know exactly what you mean about having to change the media a lot. That's what I love about the dry blaster.
I need to be better about wearing a mask when I'm running the drive blaster even though the vacuum is double filtered.
Sometimes I forget, and I know better, but most of the time I'm good about it...
Have a great day!
Great work my dude
Thanks Kyle!
Your videos are awesome man!
Thank you Nathan, always trying not to suck đ€Ł
thanks for a great video! keep up the great work
Youâre welcome, thanks for watching đ
Yah I agree with you. I do vintage motorcycles cause I love it. if I can make money then hurray! But I think the point is to have the opportunity of getting to spend time with all of the different bikes. Plus most of us already have more work than we need anyway!
Looks so good man. Definitely better than brand new đđ»
Big thanks! They're ready for another 30 years of service! Damn 1989 was a long time ago now...
@@mxrevival Yes lol! I was 7 in 89 so that makes me feel old
love what you're doing my friend
Thanks a ton Mike! I just dropped an update to this video a few weeks ago if you get bored later đ
Great video! good info, thank"s for sharing!
It's my great pleasure! Thanks for watching!
I enjoyed your video. You done a great job explaining.
Thank you very much, Tracy. We have an updated version of this video a live as well if you are interested.
They turned out mintđđŒ.
That shine đ
I usually go about 200 degrees, I will try lower temps going forward. To get those locating dowels out, stick a drill bit in there and then use vice grips, to get them out. GREAT VIDEO!
I just saw this trick for the first time, such a great one. Glad you dropped it here for people to read. Thanks for watching my man!
Thats very informative. Ill actually try shooting my 170-325 mesh at a lower pressure and see if I can get more of a shine from it.
I believe you will! Glad to be of service!
Great video. Thanks
My pleasure, J!
Getting ready to bead blast my 69 Bonneville. Feeling more confident now. Thanks my man!
You're going to kill it! You're very welcome, thanks for watching
Nice video đ for how long will the aluminum look that nice?
Thanks for the great video
It's my pleasure, thanks for watching
great attitude, great person and mentor
Very grateful for such a kind comment
Good video, i hope to buy a blaster for my garage (shed haha) to use on my projects.
Cheers
Sweden
Thanks!! Hey bro, my shop is a trailer! Run what you've got!
What grit is your beads in the dry blasting cabinet? Thank you , awesome video
Good information!
Much appreciated!
I WANT ONE. Oh BTW well produced vid.
Do it!!! You'll love it. Thank you very much
Thank You for sharing
My pleasure, Dale. Updated version of this video drops Saturday! new tooling, more experience, and better results
âProfessional do what I wanterâ I can relate.
Yeah man, we are crafting life and not the other way around đ Thanks for watching!
Appreciate your videos keep coming please
Will do! Thanks for watching.
@@mxrevival What would be your best take on removing deep rust not the one you can easily remove using sand paper from a pro circuit works pipe ?
Nice work brother and thank you
Thank you very much! You might enjoy last Saturdayâs updated version of this video too đ
Not only do your parts come out super clean and polished your shop trailer is immaculate.
Thank you, I missed the trailer! It got us through a rough patch and I had a great time working out of it while it lasted
Appreciate the video, soo many helpful tips an i noticed my torch has a blue bottle is the yellow bottle have any difference?
I'm glad! Thanks for watching đ Not sure on the gas! Sorry!
This awesome! I really wanted to use glass media when I built my dry cabinet but the only media I could find locally was walnut shells and coal slag. I used the finest coal slag I could get and it gives a pretty dull finish in comparison to the glass.
Glad you dig it! No worries, can just order up some fine bead on the internet next time đ€ This is in the cabinet in this video...Potters Ballotini: www.zoro.com/ballotini-glass-beads-blast-media-extra-fine-ah-170-325/i/G0315831/feature-product?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5JSLBhCxARIsAHgO2SeCwXrYaTOpOuikvwYg83ci-FFS8fu-7rhXp--dsFqdkUUjaHPbVMYaAlmrEALw_wcB
@@mxrevival Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for!
Cool video! I stumbled upon your channel and seen something about vapor blasting and thought I would check it out. I really didnât know much about it. Pretty cool process you have seems to work very well. I have a dry blast cabinet but the vapor blast cabinet is unfortunately out of the realm of reality for me at this point.
When I Vapor blast it comes out closer to a dry blast finish despite trying different pressures and media types. Any advice? Itâs a DIY cabinet so not exactly the same scenario, but would love to get the results youâre getting
Hey Charles, any advice on what to do with a case that has a low spot about 3/4 inch along the mating surface that leaves a .025 - .003 inch gap on the bottom of the crank housing ? Thanks!
Hey, trying to visualize that but hard to tell if that is Factory or if it is damaged? I will definitely miss your reply because CZcams only notifies me the first time I get a comment. So you can definitely reach out to me on the website by using the contact link. Then you can send me some photos once I reply đ„ mXrevival.com
Thanks for watching!
The jams! Damn I love it!!!
Bang Yo Head!!!
Awesome video you got some good equipment im still scrubbing with wire brush and scotch brite Wish my videos turn out as good as yours thanks for the vaper lesson really considering oneđ€
Hey Mike, thanks for watching! That's where we all start, and I started too. And those things totally work, no harm there đȘ you for the nice compliments
đ€
Nice setup đ
Gracias!
Hay man i really like your vids . Just wanted to know i am doing a build on my 1982 RM 250 the motor cases are black from the factory will vapor blasting blow all the paint right off . Or do i have to remove the paint first . Thanks Mike.
Thanks Michael, I appreciate that. Youâre going to want to get the paint off first. Going to make your life a lot easier. You can use rust oleum brand âaircraft removerâ to loosen up the paint and pressure wash as much of it off as you can.
@@mxrevival cool thanks so much your the man keep up the great vids .and thank you for getting back to me.
Hey just wondering how long the cases stay looking so good? I've done allot of dry blasting for cases and they look great for a few months but then they get a dirty look to them. Wondering if the same happens after vapor blasting
Hi there- if you have done dry blasting with aluminium oxide then, in my experience, the parts get dirty very quickly because of the tiny cavities the blasting process causes. After vapour blasting the parts seem to stay a lot cleaner for a lot longer. I usually put my parts in a heat cabinet directly after vapour blasting and the heat and moisture sets up a quick and thick protective oxide layer on the new surface .
That looks great! Where do you get the red plastics??
Thanks Chase, we import the Ducati Neon Red YZ kits for our awesome customers. You can check them out here: www.mxrevival.com/product-page/2002-2020-revolution-kits-replacement-plastics-yz125-yz250-two-strokes
Outstanding.
Thank you, Chris đ
Was hoping for a bit more info and walk around of the wet blaster, it caught my attention as I have done lots of sand blasting.
I Love how it looks after you take it all of the gung off of it. it just looks soo good after it got washed.
Not too many like you on youTube. Exelent instruction on vaper honing. I started vapor honing recently , lots of mistakes. After watching your video I know now why. Thanks for sharing. Joe from Canada.
Super pumped to hear that, Joe! I feel your pain đ Really glad the video was of some value to you. I know I struggled so I couldn't be the only one. Happy New Year - Charles // mXrevival
@@mxrevival Hi Charles, thx for reply. Happy New Year to you too.I just have one question if you don't mind. What is good mixing ratio water and media? Thx Joe.
Thanks for the video... Good stuff. I found tho that I got the same result with dry blast glass bead around 50 to 60psi. And less dust... More psi I found gave me a shit load more dust.
Very interesting! I totally agree wet blast isn't 100% necessary. It will just put a shine on unlike dry, if someone really wants to spend some extra time in the cabinet. May I ask what media type and grain size you used? Would love to know, and it would probably help others.
@@mxrevival thanks for replying. I do vapour blasting as well. I tried several options on dry... Soda on carbs and brakes. Just wasn't happy with the outcome... And a serious amount of dust no matter how low I wound down the pressure. The reason tho for soda on carbs was so afterwards I would ultrasonic bath them and would help get rid of any left over soda.
Garnet is just too harsh for this Kind of stuff... Same with alloy oxide.
So glass is my go to for for alloy bits. I couldn't give you grain size.. I asked for glass grade somewhere between medium and fine. It works. But just thru experimenting I found that I lowered the psi until the result changed. And I didn't have as much dust. I'm restoring 4 classic Honda goldwings so it's important for me to have the right outcome. And I agree for wetblast after dry. It does make that difference.
I've built my own cabinet and thru trial and error it's getting closer to where I want it.
Thx for This video !! last time I was tried to vaporblast by myself. But didnât got the same result because i used to much pressur
Youâre very welcome! I have a brand new updated version of this video dropping on Saturday! I hope you enjoy it!
Hi Charles ! Very nice work here!!
My question is: could you let the motor like that for the rebuilt or if it needs to be paint ?
Thank you! Yes, a rebuild is the perfect time to do this that way, everything looks beautiful when it goes back together.
If you intend to paint your cases or have them ceramic coated for example, then you would want to use a basic dry blast cabinet with aluminum oxide in it.
Aluminum oxide will give the part a little more of a texture because it is a coarser media. This is so that the paint or ceramic coat will stick and have something to hold on to a little better on the parts surface, as well as better longevity.
Glass bead is a polishing media that bounces off of the part. So it does not offer the same amount of grip for a coating to go over it, even though it can be done. Generally speaking though, glass bead is what gives the part a nice shine or bright luster.
@@mxrevival so, we can let it like that without painting?
screw may be a JIS head - similar to Philips but has a different tip angle. If you use a standard Philips on a JIS screw, it will bugger the recess very quickly. (tip given to me from an old-school cycle mechanic)
Dropping the knowledge!
Thank you!
And thank you as well for watching đ
Hi Sir.
Can we do vapour blasting for truck engines and gear boxes?.
Also
What are disadvantages of these process ?
You can vapor blast literally anything! The only thing that might cause you an issue is corrosion on steel. You could probably put an additive in the vapor blasting tank to combat flash-rust or corrosion. But I'd be cautious as it might damage the pump motor that is the heart of the vapor blaster.
You'll find out if it's worth it when you try it. Different for everyone.
Any recommendations on budget vapor and sandblast cabinets? Iâm wanting to achieve the same result without breaking the bank and my OCD needs this perfection.
Go big, it will be worth it! It's addictive & you'll end up going big later anyway, & spending on cabinets twice! But yes, tons of cool options via Google search. The biggest thing is getting a compressor that can keep up. That's another reason to go big out of the gate. You really don't want to buy the compressor twice if you can avoid it!
What about the threads when you do dry blasting, did you tape em ? 19:13
Hi, here we donât have vapour blast available so I have gone through the dry glass beat blasting for my cases and as you mentioned the finish is very nice. Do I just leave it as it is or do we need to get it lacquered? It would be very helpful if you could answer
I like to leave them bare aluminum so that they can be cleaned easily later on. If you coat them, someday they will be harder to clean. But you CAN coat them if you'd like to. There are no wrong answers đȘ
Thank you very much@@mxrevival for oyur reply. I will also leave it bare as advised :)!. in some areas there are pores though (even gbead blasting didnt make it smooth)
coz of its age .Maybe i should use a sand as bit? Or leave it like that. thank you youe made my decision less complicated.
im starting a rebuild on my03 yz250 definitely going this route. thanks
Badass, Adam. You'll see my link for you on your other comment. We'll help get your 03 built đȘ -Charles // mXrevival
Hey, just curious to know, whether dry blasting(glass bead media) will spoil the mating area on the engine case? I have few engines to be restored so looking up to clean all the surface without damaging any contours.
Your input is much appreciated.
Good to go! Glass bead is gentle. No need to run those surfaces hard. Bead bounces off silicone so do a good pre-clean.
You can also pull your gun away from the part and this will also decrease the rate at which bead strikes it. (Should you still be concerned)
Have fun đ
How do you change the media in the vapor blaster?
I have a cabinet and itâs a pain to change out the media. Any tips and tricks?
It doesnât seem to flow out as they say it does
Being in a trailer (and this could be a helpful tip for you too) it was one of my concerns. But I found a good solution.
I use a black water hose (RV turd tube!) to drain the water out first, then slowly use the hose inside the cabinet to flush the media out & through the hose too.
You have to check the hose, because the media can build up, then back up (AKA leaks in the shop). So I just take my time, and remove the hose/ give it a few whacks outside when this happens.
It's also draining into a large storage bin, to catch the media. Takes about 30-40 minutes to drain, fill, clean out the cabinet very well, and re-load. It used to take about an hour + when I was getting a system down.
Hope that helps!
-Charles // mXrevival
With the vapor blasting process, is there any chance of the glass beads getting stuck in oil passages or other crevices?
Somebody would have to be extremely negligent if it were to make it into a rebuilt engine. It's a good question.
If the parts are rinsed out, or plugged and rinsed, and especially hit with an air compressor just to be sure (this is what I do) as well as inspected before any final assembly, I would be shocked if somebody still had bead in the engine.