My TREK Marlin 6 2021 WSD - UPGRADES part 3 - Tapered fork? Yes you can!
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- My bike “Monster”
It was a Trek Marlin 6 WSD 2021 but apart from the frame there are no original parts left on this bike. I had fun with this build. 😁
Upgrades:
Raceface Next 35 mm, 760 width carbon riser bar
40 mm Cube RFR trail stem
AMS berm grips (camo)
Rockshox Revelation Debon air 140 mm boost
Promend headset - HP 4439
28.6/44 mm - 44/39.8 mm
Carbon spacers
1x11 deore
Cassette 11-51 t CS M5100,
Rear derailleur RD M5100
Deore 11 speed shifter
hollowtech II bottom bracket and Deore 5100 crankset
OneUp oval 32 t chainring
Shimano SPD pedals
Sunringle Duroc 30 boost tlr wheel front
Bontrager kovee tlr rim back
Victoria Barzo 2.25 tubeless Setup back and front
Mucoff valves and sealant
TransX dropper 130 mm internal (yes I drilled a hole into the frame)
Ergon women sm sport gel seat
SRAM level brakes and SRAM centerline disks 180 mm front and back
Mudhugger
#allmountainstyle #trek #trekmarlin #boost #rockshox #shimano #sram #bontrager #transx #ergon #raceface #cube - Sport
I also run a Shimano Deore 5100 1x11 and very happy with it so far. I actually purchased another one for a different build. It may be a little on the heavy side, but feel it's the best drivetrain for the money. I have both 30T and 32T chainrings. I had to play around with the bottom bracket spacers to get the chain line in the 48mm range since the cranks is designed for 52mm boost chain line. Also, I imagine you reduced your head tube angle (more slack) by replacing the stock 100mm fork with a 140mm fork including the new headset. So probably a win.
Yes. It performs great. Totally different bike now. A definite keeper. 😊
Thank you..I just went to a shop and met the Marlin,and it seems like the perfect bike to ride and upgrade if needed..
Sweet! :)
@@sabrinalovesbikes That range of bikes give you bang for your buck. You can get these great bikes for less than $1000 ride the stock parts for as long as you want, and then out exactly what YOU want on the bike.Once you do the upgrades, then you have a whole different animal. I rode a Cannondale F700 stock for a while. I replaced my tires/rims/brakes with XT ceramic rims, full XT drivetrain, changed stem and bars to the negative position,etc. It does not make sense to have a $7000 carbon bike and you're not an expert or advanced rider. Plus, with maintenance unless you're sponsored, that bike will cost another $3000 in the next 3-5 years.
I started off with a 2020 Trek Roscoe 8 and have been slowly upgrading and personalizing it to suit myself and my type of riding. Even if you bought a custom bike, if you're a true cyclist, it will never be perfect until you make it yours and yours alone. That's part of being a cyclist, making your bike one of a kind.
Well said 🙏😊
Nice bike 🙂
Looks great!
Thank you 😊
I just started getting into MTB I have a Trek Marlin 5. It's an awesome bike for being an entry level. My next bike will probably be an EMTB for the extra help I need on those steep mountains that kill my legs😂
A cassette with bigger range helps too. 😊
Good job! I am new to mtb and i have a marlin 6 too... decided to upgrade it instead of going to a roscoe but found out its more expensive eventually but it is a rewarding process... customising a bike to suit your specific needs is definately worth it... for me the main deciding factor was the fork steerer length... especially if you have back or neck health issue there is no way you will be satisfied with modern mtbs as they cut the steerer way too low causing you to be too hunched over... so changing the fork and adding more height solves the problem and from there you move to the other parts... wheels, brakes, stem, handlebars etc... the only thing I do not want to change is the drivetrain the 10x 11-46 is enough range for me + I believe that the 10x should be more durable than the 11x or 12x as the chain gets slimmer and the cassette tighter...
Sounds amazing! Have fun with the upgrading process! There’s nothing more rewarding than making a bike truly fit your specific needs and picking parts for it that are perfect for you. 🤩👌
Nice one, keep up the good work!
Thanks 😀
good job! The bike is top notch! It looks great and drives even better. bought two Judy Gold for my and wife's Marlin 6 yesterday after your recommendation, now awaiting delivery. good luck on the trail. Do you post your bikes on instagram?
Sweet! The Judy will transform your bikes. I have an Instagram account but I’m not using it. However I will turn it into a bike based page. Great idea, thank you! I will let you know when its done. 😀
Nice Sabrina! It looks great. Big difference with the tapered fork compared to the Judy? Stiffer and better stearing at all? I assume it eats those bumps better too!
Yes definitely stiffer, more stability and great at eating up the big bumps. The Judy is a fabulous fork too though. It depends on what you’re going to use the bike for. ☺️
How did you manage to fit the 51T 11 speed cassette on the CUE/Deore system as it says the cassette might hit the spokes due to the FH M475 hubs being only 135mm
It’s no problem with this particular Kovee wheel. It can take a big cassette. None of the wheels on this bike are stock. I bought the back wheel specifically so it can fit this kind of cassette. Then you have to go for a derailleur that can accommodate 51t. The standard 10/ 11 speed deore can’t take more than a 42/ max 46 without a derailleur extension. I tested it and opted for a new derailleur. Are you planning to upgrade yours? In case you wonder the wheel I’m using in the back is the Bontrager Kovee TLR/DC22 29”. 😊
I want to upgrade my straight headtube bike , by installing a tapered fork, with the help of straight to tapered fork adapter.
Please let me know, what will be the effect or changes of using a straight to tapered fork adapter on the head tube angle.
For example :- If length of the headtube is increased by 10 mm , what will be the changes in headtube angle in degrees .
Whether the headtube angle will become steeper or slacker.
Unfortunately I can’t give you exact numbers but if you are installing a fork with the same offset, and your adapter extends the head tube ever so slightly, you’ll end up with slacker head tube angle. That again would change if your new fork has more travel. If you’re going for a fork with more travel it will most likely have reduced offset like 44 or 42 and it will climb just as good, in some way compensating for the slacker head tube angle you achieve by extending the head tube. I hope this makes sense? 😊 Anyway, don’t be afraid of doing that change. It will improve your ride no matter what if you’re riding a hard tail with a coil fork. Just don’t go over the top when it comes to travel and all will be good.
@sabrina where did you get the promend headset from?
Amazon :)
Привет из России!
Hey i have a trek marlin 7 gen 2 and i have suntour epixon that has adjustable travel should i go 130mm or 120mm i want to go 130mm but im scared if my head tube snaps the head tube angle is 69.5° do you think i can do it
In my opinion 130 will work fine. I rode with 140 and nothing weird happened. It changes the geometry slightly but nothing major. If you want to play it safe go with 120. It will eat up chunky trails just fine. 😊
@@sabrinalovesbikes thanks for the reply I am going to try 130mm but first I need to do it because I tried many times and I can't do it because of this pin I need to get out to be able to change travel hopefully this time tho 😅
How were you able to put a tapered fork on the bike?
By changing the headset. There are special headset bottom cups available for that. I used a Promend headset kit from Amazon/ straight to tapered. Works a treat and is easy to install if you have the right tools. Let me know if you want a link to the headset. :)
@@sabrinalovesbikes Can you send me the link? I am having trouble finding it on Amazon.
@@maxseekford5718 Harilla Cykelstyrsats upp till 56... www.amazon.se/dp/B09MPDF165?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
They write harilla but it says promend on the top cap. :)
How did you run an internal dropper? I have a 2020 Marlin 5 with external dropper because there is no room in the frame to route the cable. Please tell us your secret.
I had so drill a hole in the bottom of the seat tube as close as you can get to the bottom bracket. The rest is no problem. So you guide your hose internally through the top tube, come out under the bottom bracket with all the other cables and then you guide the cable upwards towards the hole that has been drill. Then into the hole and up through the seat tube so you can connect it. If you want I can add some photos here of where exactly the hole I drilled sits.
Please note: Drilling a hole into the frame will void the warranty. And it has to be done with great care. Start with a very tiny hole and then slowly make it bigger until it fits the hose comfortably. It also has to be drilled at a slight angle. Hope this helps. ☺️
@@sabrinalovesbikes Thank you! I might try it.
would you mind putting those specs in the comments? thanks!
Hey! I’ll fix a spec list tomorrow and put it in the comments here. :)
Part list:
Raceface Next 760 carbon riser bar
40 mm Cube stem
AMS berm grips (camo)
1x11 deore 11-51 t, hollowtech II bottom bracket and deore crankset
OneUp oval 32 t chainring
Rockshox Revelation Debon air 140 mm boost
Promend headset - HP 4439
28.6/44 mm - 44/39.8 mm
Sunringle boost tlr rim front
Bontrager kovee tlr rim back
Victoria Barzo 2.25 tubeless setup back and front
TransX dropper 130 mm internal (yes I drilled a hole in the frame)
Ergon women sm sport gel seat
SRAM level brakes and SRAM centerline rotors 180 mm front and back
Carbon spacers
SPD pedals Shimano PD-M520
Mucoff tubeless valves
Mudhugger front fender
Hope I didn’t forget to mention anything. :)
I here OVER-forking your bike is bad for the geometry of the bike and can potentially damage the frame. What’s your thoughts??
Tested 120 first and found I had still had some room to play with the suspension. The first 140 mm with 44 mm offset worked ok but with this one at 42 mm offset the bike feels great. It’s very stable and still climbs great too. I know this goes probably against Treks warranty policy but I already drilled a small hole into the frame to accommodate an internal dropper. 😁 Personally I feel the bike is awesome now. 140 mm is no problem at all.
I have marlin 7 gen 3 if i buy this fork RockShox Revelation RC 29 i dont know what travel fits for for all kinds of use and what parts i need to make it work no new wheel... if you could link what i need :)
130-140mm if they fit
The revelation rc is has a tapered steerer tube and a boost axel. So you would need to convert your head tube with a special headset so it can take a fork with a tapered steerer tube. When it comes to the axel you would have to get a different front wheel or a different hub on your wheel (a little more complicated process). I just picked up a “cheap” boost front wheel from decathlon and a conversion headset from Amazon to be able to fit this fork. When it comes to travel I would say between 100 and 120 as a sweet spot for cross country and trail riding. But if you want more, go for it. More travel will change the geo and make climbing a little harder. But as you can see even this model worked with a little more travel. :) I used the following headset:
Harilla Cykelstyrsats upp till 56 mm rak gaffel styrlager styrsats 1-1/8 avsmalnande huvud väg MTB - 4439 amzn.eu/d/8DSotQS
This is the wheel:
www.decathlon.se/p/198651-128475_framhjul-mtb-29quote-dubbelbottnad-falg-skivbroms-boost-15x110-duroc-30.html#/demodelsize-254no_size/demodelundefined-8513689