Video

@@Eroldlite true 😁

130-140mm if they fit

The revelation rc is has a tapered steerer tube and a boost axel. So you would need to convert your head tube with a special headset so it can take a fork with a tapered steerer tube. When it comes to the axel you would have to get a different front wheel or a different hub on your wheel (a little more complicated process). I just picked up a “cheap” boost front wheel from decathlon and a conversion headset from Amazon to be able to fit this fork. When it comes to travel I would say between 100 and 120 as a sweet spot for cross country and trail riding. But if you want more, go for it. More travel will change the geo and make climbing a little harder. But as you can see even this model worked with a little more travel. :) I used the following headset: Harilla Cykelstyrsats upp till 56 mm rak gaffel styrlager styrsats 1-1/8 avsmalnande huvud väg MTB - 4439 amzn.eu/d/8DSotQS This is the wheel: www.decathlon.se/p/198651-128475_framhjul-mtb-29quote-dubbelbottnad-falg-skivbroms-boost-15x110-duroc-30.html#/demodelsize-254no_size/demodelundefined-8513689

Thank you 😊

@@sabrinalovesbikes 🤗

Thank you 😊

Sorry for the late reply. It’s the gen 2 frame but I upgraded the headset so it could take a tapered fork. If you want to do the upgrade on a budget, you could go with Rockshox Judy or Manitou Markhor. Both are available at 100 or 120 mm. :)

Very sorry. That video didn’t happen but I will create some new upgrade videos soon. Promise! ☺️

@sabrinalovesbikes Thank you and yes please do!! 😊❤️

Sounds amazing! Have fun with the upgrading process! There’s nothing more rewarding than making a bike truly fit your specific needs and picking parts for it that are perfect for you. 🤩👌

In my opinion 130 will work fine. I rode with 140 and nothing weird happened. It changes the geometry slightly but nothing major. If you want to play it safe go with 120. It will eat up chunky trails just fine. 😊

@@sabrinalovesbikes thanks for the reply I am going to try 130mm but first I need to do it because I tried many times and I can't do it because of this pin I need to get out to be able to change travel hopefully this time tho 😅

Amazon :)

It’s no problem with this particular Kovee wheel. It can take a big cassette. None of the wheels on this bike are stock. I bought the back wheel specifically so it can fit this kind of cassette. Then you have to go for a derailleur that can accommodate 51t. The standard 10/ 11 speed deore can’t take more than a 42/ max 46 without a derailleur extension. I tested it and opted for a new derailleur. Are you planning to upgrade yours? In case you wonder the wheel I’m using in the back is the Bontrager Kovee TLR/DC22 29”. 😊

By changing the headset. There are special headset bottom cups available for that. I used a Promend headset kit from Amazon/ straight to tapered. Works a treat and is easy to install if you have the right tools. Let me know if you want a link to the headset. :)

@@sabrinalovesbikes Can you send me the link? I am having trouble finding it on Amazon.

@@maxseekford5718 Harilla Cykelstyrsats upp till 56... www.amazon.se/dp/B09MPDF165?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share They write harilla but it says promend on the top cap. :)

A cassette with bigger range helps too. 😊

At this stage the bike had Bontrager Kovee Wheels. The hubs are standard to this particular wheel with quick release. I can check for you but it’s standard to this particular wheel. :)

It worked though and still climbed like a beast but only because of the choices I made here. The fork had low offset (42) and the lower Headset cup slackened the angle slightly. So I ended up with something that worked really well. I rode it like that for a while and it was fabulous. Now the bike went to my son and has been modified to suit him. 100 mm Manitou upfront. Video coming soon. 😃☀️🚴‍♀️

Unfortunately I can’t give you exact numbers but if you are installing a fork with the same offset, and your adapter extends the head tube ever so slightly, you’ll end up with slacker head tube angle. That again would change if your new fork has more travel. If you’re going for a fork with more travel it will most likely have reduced offset like 44 or 42 and it will climb just as good, in some way compensating for the slacker head tube angle you achieve by extending the head tube. I hope this makes sense? 😊 Anyway, don’t be afraid of doing that change. It will improve your ride no matter what if you’re riding a hard tail with a coil fork. Just don’t go over the top when it comes to travel and all will be good.

Thank you! 😃

@@sabrinalovesbikes Btw what happened with the Stumpjumper, did you sell it?

@@manuelrenato6058 yes, unfortunately. Needed something more suitable for xc racing and couldn’t keep both. Got the BH Lynx Race Carbon 6.0 full sus now. A beast! 😃

@@sabrinalovesbikes Definitely better. Keep the awesome content!

@@manuelrenato6058 yes I do 😀

Well said 🙏😊

Hey! I’ll fix a spec list tomorrow and put it in the comments here. :)

Part list: Raceface Next 760 carbon riser bar 40 mm Cube stem AMS berm grips (camo) 1x11 deore 11-51 t, hollowtech II bottom bracket and deore crankset OneUp oval 32 t chainring Rockshox Revelation Debon air 140 mm boost Promend headset - HP 4439 28.6/44 mm - 44/39.8 mm Sunringle boost tlr rim front Bontrager kovee tlr rim back Victoria Barzo 2.25 tubeless setup back and front TransX dropper 130 mm internal (yes I drilled a hole in the frame) Ergon women sm sport gel seat SRAM level brakes and SRAM centerline rotors 180 mm front and back Carbon spacers SPD pedals Shimano PD-M520 Mucoff tubeless valves Mudhugger front fender Hope I didn’t forget to mention anything. :)

Thank you :)

No problem at all. I assume you already have a hollowtech bottom bracket. These have the right amount of spacers installed for non boost so in theory there should not be an issue with the chain line. Not with the chainring that comes with the crankset. When I installed my one up oval chainring I had to use some spacers between chainring and crank but they came in the package. 😊

Sweet! :)

@@sabrinalovesbikes That range of bikes give you bang for your buck. You can get these great bikes for less than $1000 ride the stock parts for as long as you want, and then out exactly what YOU want on the bike.Once you do the upgrades, then you have a whole different animal. I rode a Cannondale F700 stock for a while. I replaced my tires/rims/brakes with XT ceramic rims, full XT drivetrain, changed stem and bars to the negative position,etc. It does not make sense to have a $7000 carbon bike and you're not an expert or advanced rider. Plus, with maintenance unless you're sponsored, that bike will cost another $3000 in the next 3-5 years.

You will need the boost crankset for this bike. ☺️

@@sabrinalovesbikes thank you for your information highly valuable and really appreciated.

@@sabrinalovesbikes Hi, I have a 2022 Stumpy Alloy. To upgrade to the SRAM GX Eagle DUB Groupset, I'd have to choose the boost over standard version right? Thanks!

@@M1keKa1 yes you need boost. :)

Thank you! ☺️ The BB comes with a variety of spacers including the 4.5 mm. When it comes to the cassette you will save a little weight with the NX. Personally I found that it even shifted a little smoother. :)

Not this model (2021 WSD) women. It came with a 2x8 and a terrible rear derailleur without a clutch. The chain slap was terrible. The newer models have 1x10 Shimano but they are also more expensive. Another thing is that the newer models still have a square tapered bottom bracket. I installed a hollowtech 2 bb and the fitting Shimano 5100 crankset. It’s a lot smoother. 😊 Here is how my bike was when I bought it: www.trekbikes.com/se/sv_SE/cyklar/mountainbikecyklar/mountainbike-cross-country/marlin/marlin-6-womens/p/28788/

@@sabrinalovesbikes I thought this was the trek marlin 6 gen 3 oops 🤣

@@275mtb no problem! 😁They don’t really look that different apart from the drive train. 🚲

Thank you! :) And yes you can definitely fit a 150 mm dropper but not all of them will work. Get one from OneUp. They fit. Otherwise the TransX 130 mm will work too. :)

Thanks 😀

Thank you! 😃

I had so drill a hole in the bottom of the seat tube as close as you can get to the bottom bracket. The rest is no problem. So you guide your hose internally through the top tube, come out under the bottom bracket with all the other cables and then you guide the cable upwards towards the hole that has been drill. Then into the hole and up through the seat tube so you can connect it. If you want I can add some photos here of where exactly the hole I drilled sits. Please note: Drilling a hole into the frame will void the warranty. And it has to be done with great care. Start with a very tiny hole and then slowly make it bigger until it fits the hose comfortably. It also has to be drilled at a slight angle. Hope this helps. ☺️

@@sabrinalovesbikes Thank you! I might try it.

The QR skewer on the back is a DT Swiss and the seat post clamp came as part of an anti-theft set from XLC. It can be locked so it’s great. ☺️

@@sabrinalovesbikes I will check it out. Thanks