THE NX-KAMIKAZE METHOD
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- čas přidán 13. 07. 2024
- This is the new and updated Kamikaze method for the NX
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TIME STAMP
00:00 START
00:08 INTRO
00:19 DISCLAIMER
00:28 THE CONCEPT
02:33 PREREQUISITES
03:18 FINDING THE SCRATCH POINT
04:22 THE KAMIKAZE
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LINKS
Boardview from XZZ : bit.ly/3YcMazh
Ma-Ant D-1 grinder head : bit.ly/4cV3DQR
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MUSIC
elements.envato.com/the-upbea...
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CONTACT & DONATION
linktr.ee/sthetixofficial
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your videos are the most detailed and in-depth on youtube love your work has help me in a lot of consoles
Glad to hear!
Back in the day the kamikaze mod had small jigs that would precisely say where to grind, (drill) I think you could probably achieve the same thing with a 3D printed jig using the the shield and those small components above as a guide 🤔
Honestly a jig wouldn't really help here as the hard part isn't where to grind, just how deep.
Location doesn't have to be hyper-accurate, hence we can scrape down a square in the general area of the dat0 through 2 layers, and then the 3 layer is easy to see dat0 with some alcohol on it.
Remember the Kamikaze method on the Xbox 360 Liteon DVD Drives?
Edit: Yep, he talks about it. I still have the template lying around. I remember using a soldering iron to Kamikaze. Such fun
The most important man by far for us. thank you for everything
you are welcome
Although my dat0 connection has been solid for a long time, I'm certainly going to be updating the install using this method! Thank you!
Never change a running system!
Thank you for this updated guideline. Pretty well done with introducing which material you are using. What I can say is that it looks easier than it is 😁
Once again, amazing work.
thank you
The Goat
I remember doing the kamikaze on the LiteOn on the Xbox 360 just drilling very slowly. I had a little jig and template to make a little easier.
This is insane! You’re the best, Sthethix! I’ll leave this one to you. 😅
Thank you
feels like you need nerves of steel to do this method
You make it look so easy. 💯
You do a wonderful job 👍🏻👍🏻
thank you
Master piece 👏👏👏
excelent video and explanation ! thanks
Beautiful job
just amazing, im goona do it and will succeed!!!!
Thx for the information
you are welcome
i have been using "Model Scriber" instead of the grinder pen. i did have to sand and sharpen it because the edge was jigit and pitted but once i got it sharp it been doing a great job.
Just amazing! I have the equipment and I feel like I have the skill but its intimidating plus I’ve never had an issue with the dat0 adapters. Will have to find a dead board to practice on
You could try on other dead boards like v1 v2 or Lite, to reach 3rd layer
I'm usually the "no risk no fun" kinda guy when it comes to modding, soldering or repairing stuff, but this is one mod I'd never attempt to do on a working system without prior practice.
Gilak.. rapi bener kek ada bingkai di tiap layer nya.. 😅
Damn bro you got skill
I think I'm going to try this. I've had to adjust my dat0 adaptor so many times.
Which adapter did you use? And did you play games featuring a lot of rumble in handheld mode?
@@rockapartieI've used the gold full sized one and the little black corner only adaptor. I've had my rumble turned off for some time now, so doubt that is an influence.
@@_MJ07_ Thanks for the reply. Mine's still working fine (knock on wood), but every time I have to reboot, I'm always like: "Please work, please work!", and that's slowly getting on my nerves. 🙃
I did a lot of kamikazes on Liteons, but it was a much easier matter. here the difficulty is not so much the exposure of the DAT0 but welding it correctly without touching the layers, it reminds me of the film Maverick where he had to hit the mark with a shot in the crater 🤣
The best way for me
Mantab gan 👍expert ✅
almost 100kk
Really nice method, i have done similar repairs using an scalpel #11, with the mini dremel tool i feel like im going to mess it up. btw, is this method only viable on the OLED? or the 1.1 and lite have points too?
it is for the OLED only, as the other variants have exposed solder pad.
Man, what a sensational video, best explanation of the method. where can I find these Oled boardviewer and other board models, which program are you using?
global.wmdang.com/index/index/introduce/inviter/320267.html
Thank you. you can open that link
@@sthetixofficial thank you so much👏🏻😍
Is there any specific reason why your initial grinding 'square' is bigger than your last tutorial? And many thanks for the update
for me, is just a "flavor", to make the grinding easier
I prefer make a reflow with flex nand , but one day I need try this for fun
Great video again by the modding KING. Does the size of the EMUMMC matter when I partition it in Hekate ? Lets say I wanna use a fresh microSD card on my modded OLED and wanna set it up from scratch. Can I set up the EMUMMC as low as possible or does it need a minimum size ?
12GB is ideal but if you want to maximize it, you can slide it to 58GB full
Why would a reball start cracking over time? I've been reballing severeal OLED's with leaded solder balls, placing a 0.1mm wire on the DAT0 point, and have not had any failures yet. Reballing IC's have been done since the dawn of man, and I've never heard of them cracking?
i did reball other consoles too and never had any issue, but this one , i feel a bit different. even a very tough guy here on my country said, the solder ball could potentially get crack someday.
@@sthetixofficial reball with leaded solder (wick away the unleaded solder) and there is no issue. Calling it "unreliable" is simply misleading - any method is unreliable if you execute it badly. People assume you know what you are talking about so I would suggest thinking twice before claiming things you aren't certain about
Correct me if I'm wrong but not all versions of OLED motherboards are compatible with the kamikaze dat0 point ?
Great video! Will there be a separate video about the v6s chip featuring the flashing via the usb connector in the future?
there won't be a thing because flashing via the usb connector has a bug, and I don't recommend connecting the d+ d- and the vbus
@@sthetixofficial alright! Will there be any content about the trinket m0 with fusee suite for unpatched v1 switches? The newer versions of the x86 from aliexpress don't have flashing options and mine also corrupted my sd card once i tried to move files over. The general quality of these chips became pretty lackluster.
The trinket works flawlessly
@semihdemir6104 I don't have trinkets, so I cannot guarantee I will make that video. mine using the older rcmx86 and it is flawless
the 40 awg teflon wire threw me. i ordered 36 awg as for all wiring. is this only for the dat0.or is the 40 awg now suitable for all wiring? i used old micro quadcopter wires they gotta be 34 or 36 however i could not replace the shield after installing the dat0 adapter through the corner as the wire shield was to thick had to notch it a bit. just ordered 36 awg. i can always cut a few strands for this method. if 36 awg is still recommended for all other wiring.? anyways thank you for all that you do!!!!
36 is still ok. I used 40 because the 3rd layer is deeper than the surface and I need flexibility to access that area, and I found it it easier using the awg40
Hey Mr stethix My new 3ds xl top screen won't work for normal applications as well as the home screen. But does work for the cfw apps. What do I do?
please ask at discord.gg/MWxPgEp
Curious, is this the method you use for each install now? I'm a chip installer and tempted to Switch to this method
yes I always do kamikaze for all Oled modding
I still use the Latest Dat0 adapter but I never had an issue. Are you saying that eventually it will stop working ?
It's the most frequent issue with modded OLED consoles
Out of curiosity, why do you opt for solder paste for the dat0?
because the solder wire cannot access that tiny area.
@@sthetixofficial good to know, thank you for the response
Wonderful video you are the best. Where you can find grinder head? It's possible to share some link?
it is included inside the ma-ant d1
@@sthetixofficial ok but if you want to buy another One, where you can find It?
@GiuseppeFregiato this www.diyfixtool.com/products/maant-d1-intelligent-usb-grinding-pen-charging-engraving-pen?variant=44366834729189
@@sthetixofficial great thanks
What microscope do u recomend? I did whit mine but i cant see what im doing…
I used eakins microscope.
Is there anyway to fix the trace if I grinded away the layer you are supposed to solder to?
you need to grind the other part of the motherboard. please watch the boardview section.
@@sthetixofficial the trace is broken as I grinded that layer away, will the console still work?
@user-yk1cw8im4h it wont
what tutorial is the best to mod a V1 switch and V2? thanks!
same guide, V1 unpatched use czcams.com/video/_v-bGPtUXOk/video.htmlsi=HO6zX3zxtMGvWgNL
and later useczcams.com/video/up_sjzKHFeU/video.htmlsi=2qp2hRmoQfW51433 for both consoles
sorry i watch both your videos but what is the difference between the method for this and your last video?
same concept but different method to secure the wire.
Because Installers not knowing how to properly secure dat 0 without heat and emmc chips breaking because of it , this method was created but dat 0 is reliable if you know how to install it properly not need to damage the board. more than 2 years installing dat 0 with no heat and never failing.
Well, could you show a little more of the two lines, like the data 0 and the one next to it, I received a switch with both lines short, I managed to find them, but this is not the point to communicate them.
you need to subscribe to the xzz to find it out
shouldn't you add a thin piece of copper wire or at least tin the 1st and the 2nd layer since you you significantly reduced the trace width for the 1st and 2nd layer via grinding, it might become a faliure point.
i am sorry i dont understand what you mean about the copper wire. we dont need it as they are all ground signals. I opened the "square" to make the dat0 point more visible later.
@@sthetixofficial i mean that you made the ground trace significantly thinner by grinding it, after you soldered the dat0 wire it would have been a good idea to add a small piece of wire to the ground trace, or to tin it to strengthen it a bit.
@pvim no we don't need it as the whole board is a mass piece of ground signal.
Any telegram chanal can msg you boss???
no channel.
Thx for video. KAMIKAZE METHOD is still risky.... I think resolder eMMC chip better. IMHO.
Never do it again, its dangerous and 99% destroyable !