Passat TDI CKRA Timing & Water Pump with No Special Tools
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2024
- In this video we cover replacement of the timing belt, timing belt components and water pump on a 2012 Volkswagen Jetta TDI CKRA. This video shows you what you need to remove to getting access to the timing and how to install new timing without special tools using the old-school indexing method.
My man, saved me $1700. Clear concise, no special tools
This video and the instructions are spot on. Took 4.5 hours and I'm back on the road. Thank you for the help.
Wrong. It risks someone undoing toothed wheels while marks on belt as if the toothed wheel is what has to be timed accurately.
@@isilder, I'm sure he used VCDS to set the timing ....... Gees! Or, sent the guy to someone with VCDS to set the timing! Wow!
You are the real MVP! If someone has the tools, using them is really the way to go, but you are showing that with a bit of knowledge and patience, almost everything is possible.
Pete you gave me balls of steel. Was not sure I could tackle this but with all the great comments and info here I got this! Thanks for all the great comments and info there too! Much Love! You good at this keep going.
About to give this a shot… just glad the fridge is full of cold beer lol
I’ve been a tech 15 years. Marking the belt is actually my preferred method over buying every manufacturers specific tool, or trying to get the timing marks just right and having to decide one rib in front of it or one rib behind it. Nice job. About to tackle the boss’ car, wanted an idea of what I’m in for. Thank you.
Excellent video on how to botch a timing belt job on a modern TDI
starting this job today at the shop..NOBODY has tool T10050..thank you sir
Excellent video clarity and great clearly spoken guide, you'll go far boy!
One thing everyone should check before doing this technique, just be careful make sure all the hole for the alignment is correct and make sure you tighten the tensioner the most exact same tension.
i agree that indexing the belt to the cam and crank is a more efficient way to time this engine. i recall doing an older version and using a allen key to pin something in place, im guessing now I need to invest in a later model timing kit to pin these... either way, good video, explanatory and to the point. No fluff. Nice work, thanks
Thank you!
Got it sorted thanks for the walkthrough it was super helpful thank you very much
This is way less mystical now. Thank you for the video. I might actually tackle this myself.
You can do it!
Sooo.....did the car turn back on? Would have been really satisfying to hear it run properly after this timing technique. Thanks for the great vid!
Car ran great! Lol. Dude drove it for a couple years and sold it for a truck. 😅
Cool video. After installing all the fuel lines back did you had to prime the fuel it wasn’t a issue?
Thank you for the very well made video and instructions. Could you please tell me where you order your kit and the part number I'm having a hard time finding one with all the bolts
Can you tell me where you ordered your kit from? Thanks.
I bought some cheap metric drill bits and used them to lock the engine in position.
Good idea!
Dude, amazing video, thank you so much! I still have 30k before I need to do this, but Im sure I can do it after watching this. The by the book way is pretty complicated and while I could probably do it, I wasn't sure I wanted to. One thing I didnt see, how do you know when the tensioner is adjusted right? Do you just put the indicator pointer back where it was before? Thanks!
THAT! is what this channel is here for! Thanks for the positive words!
Totally nail it. The book makes it seem super complicated. reading the book made me feel overwhelmed. Thanks for the video
If you watch it close enough before removing there is a dot and a hole that line up in the tensioner loosen the nut and rotate it 180 degrees anti clockwise. When you intall it just reverse the steps.
Outstanding!
Pete thank you posting this. I am about to tackle this in the morning. I did however purchase all of the special pins and sprocket holding tool kit from ID parts last year and just now getting time to do this. Reading the directions that came with the replacement kit, it says to loosen the Cam and HPFP bolts and allow it to slide counterclockwise when the locking pins are in their respective holes when on TDC procedure is conducted. After replacing the belt it goes into this elaborate alignment procedure. Just wondering if I even need to break the torque on the bolts to remove the belt. I may have missed it, but I didn't hear you mention replacing those bolts or even loosening them (which in my opinion is taking risk of messing up the timing already set). I don't like doing unnecessary steps if I don't have to or need to. I will be replacing all the pulley guides and pulley of course but not sure if I would be able to get the belt back on with the marks like you did and with the back up of the locking alignment pins installed. Thanks, Again for taking the time to do this.
Absolutely. I chose to take the path of least resistance. All of the pulley bolts (tensioner, idler, along with those pulleys themselves should be replaced with the belt. If you are going to do it by the book and loosen the adjustment bolts, definitely replace those said bolts. Otherwise it’s a point and shoot like me counting teeth on this job and making sure nothing shifts.
@@Pete_Tech_ Pete, so I knocked it out and it was not bad at all. Thanks again for proving it can be done the old way instead of all the technical procedures/equipment. With that being said, I had a few so called special alignment/lock pin tools that could you could easily use a drill bit that will fit in the holes in the sprockets. Also, I did not disconnect any fuel lines, just flopped the can over on top of engine and didn't touch the Cam or HPFP bolts as the procedure calls for. I used my daughters fingernail polish for the paint marks. Also, your suggestion of leaving the top roller off until last was the ticket!!!!! I think I spent more time searching for the correct sockets in my dads coffee can full of random sizes. It did take me awhile to pull the water pump out and to slide the new belt on (which was super cold from being in the trunk all night with the rest of the parts and tools. I ended up using a 1/2in block of scrap wood and small metal trim crowbar to help get the pump loosened to pull out. Like I said earlier, I bought this kit July 2019 and just didn't have time or the courage to do this myself from hearing all the warnings of how hard/technical it was to complete, not to mention the average price quote was over $1K. I did it in my driveway with 1 ramp for the driver side, jack stand on passanger side with back up under the transmission support bracket, and floor jack for the engine. As long as you have a triple square set, torque bit set, metric sockets with several extensions, torque wrenches, and burp the coolant system/pressure fill it really is not as bad as it seems. Thanks again. Be patient, don't rush, and pay attention to detail.
@Ahmed Jordan no this is a scam lol Ahmed and Ronin, two scammers.
If you have tool, or a 4mm 5mm drill bit or similar, No risk of timings issue,because the timing slot in cam pulley is not on the removable toothed wheel part.. its at the axle of the cam, not affected by loosening the toothed wheel, and that slot locks it to the head when that slot is at lower left. .. so if that slot is at top right, turn crank 360,and cam rotates 180,so you can lock cam to head. Mark crank if not locking it. Pump is fairly easy,so u dont need to lock or mark..it has a slot and hole to lock or check timing at..
excellent video thanks for this. having said this i would still not even entertain idea of doing this on my own. i think i will buy original parts (and if someone knows what exactly is needed besides timing belt and water pump) then go to my mechanic.
Finally got it done by the professionals. It took him about 5-6 hours. We also changed the belt used in alternator as old one was cracked. I saw him taking off right wheel while the car was up. Appreciated this video to explain what is involved.
I didn't hear you mention that the motor mount bolts are torque to yield. Which makes them a one time use. Great video
Everything on a Volkswagen is one time use, I can guarantee you the mount is still secure and operating per design 👍🏻
@@Pete_Tech_ literally everything is tty on a Volkswagen lol you're right. If the bolt fits fine after it comes out, then obviously there wasn't much stretching 🤷♂
Nobody att my work changes those bolts. I can assure you that most vw shops reuse much of the bolts. Not everything is done by the manufacturers manual
This is making be dread changing everything on mine, I hate that vw put it in the timing belt area and not external
How many miles the cars has and is this the first time change of timing belt ? Very great job
Change timing belt, water pump, and all three pulleys at 130k.
Good video. 2 most important things, count teeth and double check and also use premium parts
Right on!
Where did you get the timing kit from??
Also, about how long did it take you to complete the job?
I don’t remember the teeth count. I think the job took about 3-4 hours.
If my belt tensioner doesn’t have that lip to lock into the motor on the back is that a problem ?
@9:23 - No need to take the motor mount off. The "pro" way is to remove the tensioner with the stud and use that to put it back on.
I prefer to do it this way but you didn't make any adjustments with the slotted came sprockets like I see on other videos. Do I need to fine tune those or just get the new belt lined up like the old one with timing paint marks. An at the end how do I adjust the tensioner? Do i put it in the middle of the window and call it good?
Just set correctly in time (belt and tensioner) and send it!
Don't listen to this clown, do the job properly and time the pulleys correctly using the right tools, if you do it this way you will almost certainly be slightly out on your timing which isn't an issue for the fuel pump but can cause running issues if it's out on the cam side. The tools can be found for less than 50$ online for a full kit.
Where in Iowa are you? Got a shop that you do these for customers?
I’m in Central Minnesota, 30 miles NW of Minneapolis. I do provide service, yes!
Hey man, how much would you charge for this job? Really would love to know
$800
Going thru this repair rn $1200 repair
Hello, do you remember how many teeth apart you counted from each marking?
It doesn’t matter how many teeth are between marks, as long as the marks YOU made are transferred directly to the new belt. Count the teeth between your marks and do the same on the new belt
Why would you index to the belt? You should index the crank and cam to somewhere on the engine.
Exactly. The crank is easy to time without tool,but do mark it to the block. The tool for cam and pump could be a drill bit or similar .. there's special holes to align cam and pump. Both lower left.. if the timing slot on cam pulley is at top right, rotate crank once. 360 on crank is 180 on cam...
There is a reason why the belt on most timing kits come with marked teeth. Smaller pulleys or sprockets cannot be indexed easily or accurately and correlated with enough accuracy to the numerosity of teeth on a typical timing belt (there are maybe a hundred or more teeth on a t belt that correspond to degrees of a circle). The belt goes on without tension. And when tensed it can shift the cams in either direction a tooth which just means it may take you extra time to get it right. So its more efficient imho to index the belt to the cams and crank. There will be slack on the belt when it is installed and you may be off a tooth and that will equate to your cams moving. Not to mention usually there is load on one of the cams and a tendency for the cams to spring forward or backward when installing the belt which is annoying if you've indexed them to the block or head. That's my two cents. Im about to do this job and I'll let you know if I feel otherwise thereafter
Can I do this without a lift?
Of course!
Is the engine only mounted by the right hand side?
It’s mounted by multiple engine mounts. It has front, rear, and also a trans mount!
@@Pete_Tech_ then how are you raising and lowering the engine with only one mount unmounted?
@@IMustTurd easily....one side is loose. You can also do this job without taking the mount off.
Is it the same for the SE 1.8t Passat
Very similar yes!
Any videos on oil leaks I have one on that side of the car same thing Volkswagen 2014?
Usually cam seal, is it leaking along the firewall?
Mine leaks on the back of the motor
I live in DC. Can you do this repair for my Passat
I’m in Minnesota 😅
There is an easy and actually "right" way to disconnect the electric connetions. It's the "push/pull'" method. A screwdriver will damage the connectors. You can find a video here how to do it right:czcams.com/video/MVVGtGzp9WI/video.htmlsi=YbrAURpIjsjAarDh
What kind of lift is that?
Bendpak 6xp Sissor. $2600 lift gated to you door. Worth ever single penny!
I bought one just like it from Harbor Freight. I looked at them all spec wise. Literally they are all the same lifts with different colors of paint as separation of manufacturer. I think I gave around $1100 for mine. Yes, well worth the money for such a use full tool.
@@lowrider9367 checking in to ensure you're still around, I fear for your life re- the Harbor Freight lift 😄
@@whiskeydelta4180 Thanks a lot. Appreciate you stopping by to check in on me. I believe I have had the lift for around 3 years or so. I've had my BMW 335D, my Passat TDI, the wife's Chevy Equinox with the 1.6L Diesel as well as our Pioneer. It's a great lift & would 100% buy it again. I get your speculation as I did myself. If you have seen the machine in person it's actually a well built lift.
I did it with success....however now the car idles about 200 rpm faster?? Everything else feels perfect
Update: I unhooked the battery for 10 minutes then hooked it back up and drove about 10 miles, all is well now!
Awsome! Part of this would be to reset adaptations with a capable scan tool (or your method) 😎
Where did you get the kit from?
@@Pete_Tech_
Where did you buy the timing kit from?
Cascade European Automotive out of Oregon I believe. They have their own site as well as an eBay store. Phenomenal kit for $300 with OE components.
@@Pete_Tech_ thank you!!!
Is there a website or just look on eBay?
You are marking wrong place. Mark the crank pulley to the block !!! For the cam n pump,they have toothed wheel attached. Mark the toothless centre part to align to the block or head .. The tooth wheels can then be loosened .. I fear in some cases, the belt will not go on until the toothed wheel loosened ... And if u loosen the toothed wheels, marking pulleys to belt is pointless
Instead of special tools, Put a drill bit or allen key or screw driver,tent peg fencing wire,for example, into the cam pulley, in the centre of the slot if its to lower left. Rotate crank once if the slot is 180 away... This locks the cam to the head .. And there's a slot in the head for the fuel pump. Down to the lower left of the pump pulley, centre between tooth wheel bolts... Put a rod into it to lock it,or to test alignment. then loosen the tooth wheel on the cam and pump pulleys .. this lets the belt go on without first stretching it to precisely same stretch as old belt.. so then when u have belt on but tooth wheels loose, just check crank cam and pump are timed accurately,and belt tensioned, and lock the tooth wheels back on.
The reason for marking the belt is simplicity. There is an exact number of teeth between each gear. New or old, that number will not change. If the engine it’s set at TDC the only remaining relevant factor is the belts ribs between each pulley. On top of that, if you know VWs, those bolts on the gears are aluminum and should be replaced after un-torquing. Again this was intended for DIYers not VW techs. I do appreciate the feedback and you do make very valid points!
@@Pete_Tech_ quick question the timing belt has to rotate when i crank it because i notice the main pulley its turning but the top of the belt its not ?
'...no special tools'...seriously...you're gonna drop the motor then lift the motor...come on
You can do that with a socket set, a small 2x4 and a jack. I wouldn’t consider that special tools lol