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The noise I hear right when I click this video is the noise I heard this morning and a few other morning while just sitting there and it’s driving me crazy😩

'...no special tools'...seriously...you're gonna drop the motor then lift the motor...come on

you deserve more views bro. thats crazy! good work!

Took my intake off to change injector getting 4 cylinder miss fire looked inside have oil sitting on top of my intake valves .. My spark plug is not getting fuel but has oil on the electroid of spark plug only 100k miles too.

I have a rhythmic deep howling. It starts at 20mph. Then evens out. Then accelerating it gets louder. Almost feels like a windy day and roof racks are getting hit by wind? When you coast, it goes away. Sounds like the front . Its scary . It feels like your teathered and trying to run. No noise when i cut the wheel abruptly. 2000 escalade 350, 000 miles

Good video but being advanced mechanical work I would advise against teaching others to go 1 link before or after. Those tricks might be fine for you, but can confuse others.

The is such a helpful video, thank you

I have the same codes and p0430 can runing rish couse that code for the cats

I couldn't help noticing air filters seen better days 😂😂

I get a very loud vibrating noise around 40-55mph when I maintain speed, sometimes braking. Took it in and they said they couldn’t find anything. My car isn’t even a year old yet

whoa, never seen the cam position sensor done this way. can you share some more info about that?

What size is the cooler hose by any chance?

I have a 2013 Nissan Xterra with a VQ40DE. Same family of Nissan motors. All this applies to that motor also. Currently, there are dozens and dozens of CZcams videos that explain the specific procedures for finding TDC and aligning everything. DO NOT depend on just this one video. They all have great info from a different perspective. I had to watch most of them because I upgraded my timing chain guides to the ones found in the 2019 Nissan Skyline VQ37HR twin-turbo models with a bit of mmodifications. Jim Wold Technology in Escondido, CA gave me that tip. They are the Nissan VQ wizards. They recently built a few VQ race motors for a Baja 1000 customer in Mexico.

How about a roaring that is mostly rhythmic, but sometimes constant for a few seconds, or sometimes stops for a few seconds, but usually cyclic, no steering input makes a difference, acceleration vs deceleration doest matter, its only noticable at speeds of 75mph to 82mph, didnt dare go faster (1995 Chevy Suburban with 190hp and a worn-ish trans and so its hard enough to go that speed Ball joints on the lower control arm look okay except for leaking most of the grease. But dont seem to have really any play. New front shocks but still rough over small bumps and cracks. No clunks or anything It is 4x4 with leaky cv boots..

Assuming the secondary chains and cams were not removed, but the primary chain was, can you independently rotate cam bank 1, cam bank 2 and the crankshaft in various positions (clockwise or counterclockwise) before finally rotating them back to the marks before ultimately reinstalling the primary chain on the sprockets?

You need a different stud to put your sandwich plate on do you know which one

Dude you look like Charles Leclerc. Cool video too.

seem like a ex BMW employee is working at Nissan. making a simple design to a over engineer nightmare. these engines isn't user friendly.

Hello Pete , I have a 2014gmc sierra with 212,000 miles, and I have a P0420 , P0430 and a p2099 code . I've been trying to figure out but it's been beating me. I've replaced all the 02 sensors and nothing changes. I've replaced the cats as well but the codes remain the same. Do you have any suggestions besides getting a new vehicle?

Since this is the 3.5 HR. As far as torque sequence and specs its the same exact thing on the 3.7 VHR correct? I just want to be triple sure

Boy you certainly did a lot of scratching in there and didn’t necessarily get all the carbon!

There is an easy and actually "right" way to disconnect the electric connetions. It's the "push/pull'" method. A screwdriver will damage the connectors. You can find a video here how to do it right:czcams.com/video/MVVGtGzp9WI/video.htmlsi=YbrAURpIjsjAarDh

This can only diagnose Insanity! never seen anything as reckless and dangerous as this method....please remove this video immediately! you will not be happy if somone tried your genius method and lived miserably after with one arm!

You're supposed to also bleed it from the heater core bleeder screw as well

I have a Yukon 5.3l with these same codes and I checked the dipstick and had a strong smell of gas from the oil. I just purchased this vehicle a few days ago and Im worried the pumps been leaking for some time and reducing viscosity of the oil. Im going to drain the oil and hope I dont see any metallic shavings. You this failure is common on gm ls engines. Have you seen engine damage from contaminated oil from a leaking fuel pump?

Great video. The cog I replaced with the wood drift key I ended up doing was taking a rubber malt to hammer the cog on the supercharger kit 😅. My question is, how and what are the torque specs on the bolt you put in the cog belt. Thank you.

Amazon? Nah, RockAuto.

Oookayyy, Mmmkayyy

does anyone have a part no. for the 2010 sho? I am getting mixed results.

Nice finger nails

I changed the heater control valve to a new one (had another guy to see if it worked properly before installing and it did) i removed both hoses from the heater core and did a reverse flush and it was good flow with clean water, i bled the coolant system and still no heat, any tips?

Some mechanics say not to turn AC or heater on and they say to keep rpm at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes or so. Others like you say to turn AC / heater on. Which method is true?

Just turn the tire by hand geez.... you will feel it in the coil anyhow....

might try this tomorrow 😭

I’ve been a tech 15 years. Marking the belt is actually my preferred method over buying every manufacturers specific tool, or trying to get the timing marks just right and having to decide one rib in front of it or one rib behind it. Nice job. About to tackle the boss’ car, wanted an idea of what I’m in for. Thank you.

Thanks for the video. Obviously proceed at your own risk. As mentioned by others using a yard stick/wood stick is much safer for the average DIYer. BTW nice lift and helper. I didn't turn off the stabilizer and car on front jacks would not go above 7 MPH. Car sounds like airplane above 40 MPH worse with slight right turns. Suspect driver side wheel bearing. Both front tires have zero play. Tires rotated with no change.

do you absolutely have to count the links after you rotate/spin the engine?? i made sure i was on timing(100% sure). and put timing right back on tdc after i spun it around several times.

Good stuff Pete, congrats!

Hell yeah

Sounds nice

"we're not gonna wait, we're gonna get right into it" then it's over..? Is there a part 2 or what? If so why not post a link to it in your description?

Thanks for sharing

This is wrong

This younger generation has to be the most ridiculous with the slang and Abbreviations . Half the time you can’t understand what he saying , sounds like he’s got a cock in his mouth. This gen loves sounding like mumbling idiots. Probably why trash mumble rap is thriving. If cancel culture needs to cancel something , I wish they’d cancel mumble rap and everyone who speaks this way.

GREAT JOB VERY WELL EXPLAIN LOVE IT.

Super informative vid, clear reasoning, keep em coming.

Dude wear some safety glasses when you use that rotary wire brush, you don’t need a stray wire coming off and into your eyeball!!

Didn't see nothing no bleed

Do you have down pipe ?

Can I get the name of the song in the background?the one playing at like min 6.30 in the video