Man I can’t believe the difference and the smoothness of that cut. I really appreciate the effort you put into this saw so I can get it back for my company and put it to work!
@@novicelumberjack First off, was the pun intended? (tip vs beak) Its amazing how changing the vertical angle (up down) and or horizontal angle ( top plate angle) changes the geometry of the tooth. The steeper (pointy) the top plate angle, the more forgiving it is of inconsistencies. As you change the angle of your file, pay attention to what area of the tooth its contacting. Do this for a little while and you'll get good at sharpening fast! With time you'll know what you need to do based on how its cutting. I would also note that a steeper top plate angle with a properly corrected vertical angle is extremely forgiving of irregularities in cutter length, and you can even turn the saw in the cut somewhat. It also makes angle cutting much easier and faster than the stock top plate angle, so getting an accurate notch is far easier to get right the first time, and easier to makes necessary corrections if needed. The saw can cut faster as well because there is less area contacting the wood, therefore less drag, allowing you to take the rakers down further than you normally would. And before anyone says "increased kickback" I experience less kickback even after dropping the rakers because kickback comes from the teeth impacting something, where as with a steep angle, it is more cutting than impacting when the upper tip contacts something. Effectively softening the kick back. Give it a shot and let me know what your experience is with it. And ALWAYS test cut with a chain after sharpening it to be sure its performing how you expect it to and won't cause problems in the field. I've had a few times I had to go back to sharpening immediately because the chain was either too aggressive, or worse, increased kickback. This was when I first started experimenting. Now, I still make a point of doing test cuts if I can so I'm aware of how it is handling and if I need to correct anything.
👍 same issues sharpening. Throwing away the file guide may work for some folks, but the Oregon standard guide keeps me legit….I can get the gullet after. Had huge gullets, sharp/ thin beak. Using the guide I was actually getting a thicker top plate, less angle and stayed sharper longer. Good job on the porting- way stronger.
Big wood is the only way to test a saw. Try some seasoned ash that stuff is like trying to cut cement. Even with a razor sharp chain you go through a couple tanks cutting and your chain is not sharp anymore
Cool video and I especially love the excess amount of safety gear lol I'm ok at tiding up a chain with hand file for a couple passes to polish things up but I use an electric sharpener most of the time so I can ensure best edge and not causing it to run left or right from left right handed hand filing.
Come on people I got him to add the thanks on his videos and I started by being the first to ever donate to him some people need to give thanks to this man for his good content.
Like you said yesterday and today.. there is a big difference when you bury a bar. I still run the longest practical bar I can (24 or 28 for 3/8 setup, 20" on all 325, and i'd run 20 on 3/8lp if someone would make it) The difference is I know that i'm in eastern hardwoods and I keep a special chain on my long boys (.025 on the rakers or so) so that i'm not beating the snot out of my setup, burning up clutches, and fighting stalling. I've also found a sharp semi chisel will give you a few extra inches because of the lesser grabbiness (nice if you are bucking a large ass oak) so it balances out rpm's quite well. Thanks for sharing your experiences. You have much in common with my own.
WoooHooo! BTW, you really can (with a sharp chain) just let the tool (saw & chain) work for you so that there’s no need for “dogging in” to help apply pressure to the saw, hence a “gentle” glide.
Well I can offer you to take a look at you chain if you are interested and than I will tell you what you are doing wrong while filing. Seems like their are some filing issues that are tried to compensate with filing the rakers lower. Greetings
Love my stock redmax 7100 I got wood just like that alot of times with 28in bar and it eats the wood up only oak it struggled on little but is live oak if u get your hands on one of those saws ya I know was a jonsered 2172 till bought out by redmax in 2019 wish is when I got mine wouldn't think twice on getting another one
Those are good saws, I have owned one. I also owned all of the 372xp variants, and built them. I love my Jonsered 2171 Cutters Edge. But just to let you know, not saying you are saying anything....this ported Echo here would totally annihilate your Redmax 7100. Even if yours was ported by the best porter around. Seriously. I've owned them and I have ported them. Night and day difference. The XTORQ really kills those saws. With all that said though, they're still really good. All the variants of the 372xp are.
@@novicelumberjack where I got mine from has been in business for 40plus years and runs saws does tree services and had they said same thing there is a difference between the 372s and my redmax when redmax took over I even let my friend die hard sthil fan boy use mine 3 days old after his sthil 440 tuned to run on 100 octane ran out fuel he was completely shocked on how well it ran and ran it for couple more tanks on job we was doing and no bogging down running same size bar 24in same tree his saw had brand new skip tooth square ground chain mine just plan sthil chain and his said ran and owned the 372s in past and noticed the difference himself
Hey idk how u feel about this but I used to have a similar problem sharpening but I started to use a file guide just of of those cheap crappy metal ones but after a few weeks of filling with that I hit the feel of how it should be now I’m so much better at sharpening than before
Have you ever tried using a different size file? Try the one for what BBR calls the “baby c” & try (believe it or not) a 1/4” file that you can get from NAPA for (some) harvester chain setups. I’ve tried the 1/4” setup and it cut like crazy but those files are more expensive compared to any other saw files that I’ve run across in the round family. And it’s the amount and type (or lack) of hook that you have in your cutter tooth. Just sayin man.
Agreed! That baby C cuts like mad. I used the 5/32 file since I have a few for .325 chain. Even without the "chip dump" it is a fast cutting chain. I also dropped the rakers down quite a bit... that chain just wants to eat. I also think you meant 1/8" not 1/4" file.
@@griffinphilemon5083 no, I really do mean 1/4”. But that’s also fairly early on in my hand sharpened career. I do “try” to be careful in what I say even though I am not perfect but that’s not saying that I don’t “try” because trying is ALWAYS the operative word. T R Y is all that anyone can do after all. 😊
Man I can’t believe the difference and the smoothness of that cut. I really appreciate the effort you put into this saw so I can get it back for my company and put it to work!
That’s a 90cc log, I have hard wood where I’m at and the saw did really good.
Good day to you all
If you beak the tooth of the chain, you can tilt your file up to take the beak back.
Thanks for the tip!
@@novicelumberjack First off, was the pun intended? (tip vs beak)
Its amazing how changing the vertical angle (up down) and or horizontal angle ( top plate angle) changes the geometry of the tooth. The steeper (pointy) the top plate angle, the more forgiving it is of inconsistencies.
As you change the angle of your file, pay attention to what area of the tooth its contacting. Do this for a little while and you'll get good at sharpening fast!
With time you'll know what you need to do based on how its cutting.
I would also note that a steeper top plate angle with a properly corrected vertical angle is extremely forgiving of irregularities in cutter length, and you can even turn the saw in the cut somewhat. It also makes angle cutting much easier and faster than the stock top plate angle, so getting an accurate notch is far easier to get right the first time, and easier to makes necessary corrections if needed.
The saw can cut faster as well because there is less area contacting the wood, therefore less drag, allowing you to take the rakers down further than you normally would. And before anyone says "increased kickback" I experience less kickback even after dropping the rakers because kickback comes from the teeth impacting something, where as with a steep angle, it is more cutting than impacting when the upper tip contacts something. Effectively softening the kick back.
Give it a shot and let me know what your experience is with it. And ALWAYS test cut with a chain after sharpening it to be sure its performing how you expect it to and won't cause problems in the field. I've had a few times I had to go back to sharpening immediately because the chain was either too aggressive, or worse, increased kickback. This was when I first started experimenting. Now, I still make a point of doing test cuts if I can so I'm aware of how it is handling and if I need to correct anything.
👍 same issues sharpening. Throwing away the file guide may work for some folks, but the Oregon standard guide keeps me legit….I can get the gullet after. Had huge gullets, sharp/ thin beak. Using the guide I was actually getting a thicker top plate, less angle and stayed sharper longer.
Good job on the porting- way stronger.
Big wood is the only way to test a saw. Try some seasoned ash that stuff is like trying to cut cement. Even with a razor sharp chain you go through a couple tanks cutting and your chain is not sharp anymore
Cool video and I especially love the excess amount of safety gear lol I'm ok at tiding up a chain with hand file for a couple passes to polish things up but I use an electric sharpener most of the time so I can ensure best edge and not causing it to run left or right from left right handed hand filing.
Come on people I got him to add the thanks on his videos and I started by being the first to ever donate to him some people need to give thanks to this man for his good content.
Pretty sure I was the first to donate 😂. I sent it to his PayPal when he FIRST got that 4510 Months ago now
I’m talkin about on his CZcams through the thanks link
That chain sharpening is a part form! Keep at it, great video again 👍
Like you said yesterday and today.. there is a big difference when you bury a bar. I still run the longest practical bar I can (24 or 28 for 3/8 setup, 20" on all 325, and i'd run 20 on 3/8lp if someone would make it)
The difference is I know that i'm in eastern hardwoods and I keep a special chain on my long boys (.025 on the rakers or so) so that i'm not beating the snot out of my setup, burning up clutches, and fighting stalling. I've also found a sharp semi chisel will give you a few extra inches because of the lesser grabbiness (nice if you are bucking a large ass oak) so it balances out rpm's quite well.
Thanks for sharing your experiences. You have much in common with my own.
You could probably order a 3/8lp bar from Cannon.
Why not just take a 325 bar and change the tip to 3/8lp
@@alexstromberg7696 I may do it once I get a chain breaker/spinner setup.
WoooHooo!
BTW, you really can (with a sharp chain) just let the tool (saw & chain) work for you so that there’s no need for “dogging in” to help apply pressure to the saw, hence a “gentle” glide.
Good stuff brotha keep it coming
Ooo that's nice! Good work
Well I can offer you to take a look at you chain if you are interested and than I will tell you what you are doing wrong while filing. Seems like their are some filing issues that are tried to compensate with filing the rakers lower. Greetings
Love my stock redmax 7100 I got wood just like that alot of times with 28in bar and it eats the wood up only oak it struggled on little but is live oak if u get your hands on one of those saws ya I know was a jonsered 2172 till bought out by redmax in 2019 wish is when I got mine wouldn't think twice on getting another one
Those are good saws, I have owned one. I also owned all of the 372xp variants, and built them. I love my Jonsered 2171 Cutters Edge. But just to let you know, not saying you are saying anything....this ported Echo here would totally annihilate your Redmax 7100. Even if yours was ported by the best porter around. Seriously. I've owned them and I have ported them. Night and day difference. The XTORQ really kills those saws. With all that said though, they're still really good. All the variants of the 372xp are.
@@novicelumberjack where I got mine from has been in business for 40plus years and runs saws does tree services and had they said same thing there is a difference between the 372s and my redmax when redmax took over I even let my friend die hard sthil fan boy use mine 3 days old after his sthil 440 tuned to run on 100 octane ran out fuel he was completely shocked on how well it ran and ran it for couple more tanks on job we was doing and no bogging down running same size bar 24in same tree his saw had brand new skip tooth square ground chain mine just plan sthil chain and his said ran and owned the 372s in past and noticed the difference himself
And believe we was cutting red oak some sweet gum and ash that day
Checkout Buckin Billy Ray baby 'c" chisel on his channel. I think you'll be scratching your head
11:16
Nice improvement over stock. Good content.
Nice job
I have an older saw I'd like to practice some porting on. Gonna watch some of your porting vids now..thanks
Hey idk how u feel about this but I used to have a similar problem sharpening but I started to use a file guide just of of those cheap crappy metal ones but after a few weeks of filling with that I hit the feel of how it should be now I’m so much better at sharpening than before
Nice! Have a great day, sir!
Have you ever tried using a different size file? Try the one for what BBR calls the “baby c” & try (believe it or not) a 1/4” file that you can get from NAPA for (some) harvester chain setups. I’ve tried the 1/4” setup and it cut like crazy but those files are more expensive compared to any other saw files that I’ve run across in the round family. And it’s the amount and type (or lack) of hook that you have in your cutter tooth.
Just sayin man.
Agreed! That baby C cuts like mad. I used the 5/32 file since I have a few for .325 chain. Even without the "chip dump" it is a fast cutting chain. I also dropped the rakers down quite a bit... that chain just wants to eat.
I also think you meant 1/8" not 1/4" file.
@@griffinphilemon5083 no, I really do mean 1/4”. But that’s also fairly early on in my hand sharpened career. I do “try” to be careful in what I say even though I am not perfect but that’s not saying that I don’t “try” because trying is ALWAYS the operative word. T R Y is all that anyone can do after all. 😊
Got a sthil ms271 needs a top end and port and a 026 super needs a top end and port
Hey what are y’all doing with all those cookies y’all cut ??
Just for reference sake, about where were the rakers on that bar?
.025. I don't really understand it either. I will definitely hit it again before I use it. It's just outta hand.
Get’r done 👍
Try to rock the boat instead of pulling up