2016+ Honda Civic Type R Subwoofer Amplifier Installation
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- čas přidán 18. 11. 2018
- This video is about Civic Type R Subwoofer Amplifier Installation. This installation shows me installing an aftermarket power amplifier to a 10th gen civic hatch (type r) to give the 8" subwoofer more depth and "oomph". The upgrade is worthwhile as the factory head unit doesn't provide sufficient power to cleanly drive the 2 ohm sub.
Equipment used is a Rockford Fosgate Prime series mono class D amp model R500X1D, Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-8 subwoofer, Audio Control LC2i signal processor and an AudioControl ACR1 remote bass boost control.
Power cables used were Rockford Fosgate 8 gauge power and ground wire fused with a 50A rated fuse.
Thanks to UFO CTR and CTRMofo from Civicx.com for providing me with some of the guidance needed to make this install go seamlessly!
🇺🇸 Viewers:
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D 500 watt monoblock amplifier - amzn.to/32uqoMy
Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-8 shallow mount dual 4ohm voice-coil sub - amzn.to/3mwPt0j
UPDATED Audio Control LC2i Pro line out with remote gain control - amzn.to/3ekyv0F
10 gauge audio amplifier wiring kit - amzn.to/3moZw7J
Carpet tape to secure amplifier and LC2i module - amzn.to/32k9Ve1
🇨🇦 Viewers:
Rockford R500X1D 500 watt mono amplifier - amzn.to/32mPZHp
Rockford Fosgate P3SD4-8 shallow mount dual 4ohm voice-coil sub - amzn.to/3qiTPJK
UPDATED Audio Control LC2i Pro line out with remote gain control - amzn.to/30Suu0i
10 gauge audio amplifier wiring kit - amzn.to/3mtWbEy
Carpet tape to secure amplifier and LC2i module - amzn.to/3svpHNK - Auta a dopravní prostředky
This is, without a doubt, the best overview I've found on the best way to install an aftermarket sub, LOC, remote, and amp in a 10th gen civic hatchback. I finally have some semblance of knowing what I need and how I might do the job in my own setup. I also really appreciate that you didn't just explain what you're doing, but WHY you're doing it THAT way. Thank you so much for this very thorough and high quality breakdown!
I'm glad you liked this video! I did indeed put some thought and time into explaining things. CZcams often shows people just "doing" things without proper context. The purpose of my channel is not to entertain but to teach and I'd be a terrible teacher if I didn't explain the "whys" to everything I do :). Thanks for coming by!
I've literally watched this video 50+ times. I watched it piece by piece as I did my own install. Very helpful. Thank you very much sir, I would not known what to do without your help
I am pretty confident you would’ve been able to figure things out. Just takes a bit longer when you’re not shown :). In any case thanks for the kind words and glad you now fully understand how to do the install!
Awesome Video!!! Very clean and professionally done. Unfortunately I had my system installed by a professional because I found this video afterwards. But I enjoyed watching it. It was very clear and step by step DIY and it was informative. Thank you for the time and effort you put in to make this happen.
Super clean install! Taking the time to wrap and secure all the cables is a great way to keep it neat/tidy. I liked the way you incorporated the bass boost nob into the existing pop-out panel on the far left lower side. Perfect spot to blend it into the lower dash. Great hack to make it fit into a tight spot too. I’m applying this to my 2017 Accord! Well done, sir!👍🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Glad it was helpful!
You delivered your promise... Kudos to you. Will definitely make this my blueprint installation. Very well done. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
I am a man of my word. When my fans ask I will try my hardest to fulfill what you want :). The bonus is my stereo sounds so much better with an amp in it. Share my video to anyone you know that would be interested my vid.
You're *
@@piercedasian I realize it’s years later ,but where are the speaker wires you used for the line output converter?
@@arthurhughlett2292 The line output converter is the LC2i and I've back fed the wires back into the subwoofer box where I snipped the connections from the factory sub. The reason why I did this is to ensure I don't compromise the factory connector in the event I want to put EVERYTHING back to stock form that I'd have no problems doing so. If you watch the install video again I go into detail on how and why I did it.
Great tips. I've been wiring amplifiers in all of my vehicles for many years, and still took away some great info that not only helped with this install, but for many more to come. Thanks
Glad to help
Thanks for carefully showing us how to install this so clean and neatly. It definitely demonstrated that I need some patience when doing this. Also, it kinda scared me into not wanting to really do it, but I wouldn't trust anyone to do it as careful and extensive as you have.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you very much for the thorough breakdown and run through of putting in your system. I can’t wait to get my subs and amp in since I already have my LC2i here by its lonesome. All internals we’re already upgraded in my 20 Accord Sport as well. Cheers!
glad you liked the video. I'm thinking of upgrading the front speakers next on my car as I find the tweeters harsh and sound like their clipping when driving to reference audio levels. I need to save up for a nice set of focals for my car but those are big $$$$.
Thanks for all the hook up information.Today I will get an inline fuse for my new LC2i.I almost forgot about that.I got a 50 fuse for my amp.
Glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching.
I was able to fit the PCB from the ACR-1 into the switch blank vertically with a dremmel and a few attachments. Came out super clean... never would've even thought of it if it weren't for you. Thanks man!
Very nice!
I personally don't have a civic, but I was looking for a quality explanation on the LC2i and this video was of tremendous help to me. Thanks for the high quality content. Liked, and Subbed.
Thanks for liking and subscribing to my channel.
One of the best videos I've seen so far on youtube for sub/amp installation using a LC2i. Very well explained and professional. I'm preparing to do an install on my 2013 accord EX-L and this will help me a lot. Thanks so much !
Glad you like my video. Install in a 2013 Accord? Sweet. It will be a significant improvement over stock. Good luck with your install.
One of the best?
You should watch other videos
Nice job. Its good to see someone actually take the time to do a clean install and give a amazing step by step on how to do it! Hats off to you sir!
thanks for watching my vid!
@@piercedasian no problem friend!!! Keep up the good videosm
Thank you. I followed this video along with another CZcamsr and finally got my amp and subs installed today, it took me 5 hrs.
I set up the same amp and LC2i in my F-150. I’m pushing two punch p3 10’s and it is amazing. I like that you set the gain on the amp to zero. I will have to play with that. I am still tuning mine. Great video.
Glad you liked my video. Thanks for watching!
Outstanding video. Detailed and quite comprehensive. I'm doing a similar install on a Ram 1500 and you gave me the idea of using the double-sided tape to help mount the LC2i and the amplifier. Thanks!
Great to hear!
Excellent video, thank you for posting and i love the clean setup...
You're most welcome. Thanks for watching.
Plan on doing the same to my sport. Very easy to follow along tutorial. I really appreciate the diagram you drew up.
Glad you liked the video. I did an install in a civic sport touring and had to mount the amp on the tire jack cover so that it didn't impede the use of the spare tire Thanks for watching!
piercedasian thanks for the heads up!
Great install! I’m really thinking of doing my own install on my 17 civic
do it! So worth it!
This is a very great video. Thank you so much for taking the time to make this.
You're very welcome!
This is the best install video i have ever seen... i watched this for the ACR-1 and LC2i install portion but fount all of it very useful. I drive an Accord and it pretty much all applies.
Glad you liked the vid! Thanks for watching!
Excellent clean and safe install, very well done video... thank you
Glad you like the video. Thanks for watching!
Man... your setup looks if it factory OEM setup, so professional. Best video...
Wow, thanks!
Hats off to you, best walk through I have seen in a long time. Sub and liked!
glad you liked my video. Thanks for watching!
Nice 👌🏼 very professional installation thank you for explaining everything everything so detailed 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks for making this video. Great video 👍👍
glad you liked it! Thanks for watching :)
Wow best amp install ever. Super clean and very detailed
Thanks! I plan to do a DSP amplifier/processor install soon as I plan to do a big audio upgrade to my R soon.
Holy crap you're going to save me a ton of work thanks!
Glad my video is going to help you with your install!
Great idea to use the grommet for the hood release, however, right above it is a capped half inch hole that you can use for up to a 0 gauge power wire. Pull away the insulation padding about a half inch above the hood release grommet and you will see it.
That's a good tip. I probably won't take mine apart now but for future installs I will consider that spot. Thanks for sharing!
Hey just a tip, if you don’t want your power wire to run behind the front fender, you can find another grommet behind the battery that leads behind the clutch pedal. Nice video!
Great video! Literally doing this on my 24 Pilot Elite!
I'm impressed. Clean install and and precision tutorial.
Glad you liked my video! Thanks for stopping by.
Yooo, thanks so much for this vid, man. Was looking specifically for a clean way to connect power to battery and BOOM! Props. I can’t wait to be boomin’!
I'm about to order one myself for my maxima I have 2 w6 12 and a 500/1
Glad I could help!
I'm gonna learn a lot from these walkthroughs you do cos mine is gonna spend plenty of time being worked on when I get it 🙂.
Glad you enjoyed the video. There are more Type R how to vids but been super busy with "life" that I haven't been able to post some of my DIY work on my car.
Nice clean install for a diy project 👍
Thanks!
Really nicely done...clean and safe!
Glad you liked the install. Thanks for watching.
great vid! exactly the info i was looking for.. if i make one recommendation.. I'd probably use Tessa tape to wrap the plastic loom in, would add a nice layer that would prevent wire rattle and in warmer climates hold up better (coming from texas here).
again great vid!
Interesting. I don’t actually know what Tessa tape is. Is it a fabric type tape? I wrapped all my wiring quite thoroughly even after I finished this vid. So far it has been holding up well but then again I drive like 3000 miles a year :)
loved ur work bro... its super neat and clean.... keep it up
Thank you! Cheers!
Well done, boyou. You did it much cleaner than I did.
thanks! I'm pretty OCD about things so tidy and neat is important. I mean there is extra wires and such underneath the amps but I sadly can't customize certain cables so I'm relegated to shoving them underneath where its out of sight and out of mind.
Great job! Perfect explanation and easy to follow! Big thumbs up. I subscribed to your channel. Look forward to more videos. 👍
Glad you loved the video. I will try my best to keep making videos that hopefully cater to your likes.
Incredible walkthrough... thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Not sure if you are an expert but man you taught like a teacher. Very nice
That Crx si tho 🔥👍🏼👍🏼 good video btw! Subscribed bro
lol yes, it is indeed a factory mint CRX Si that rarely leaves the garage. It's old and it's new if that makes any sense and I'd hate to get into an accident or have someone try to steal my little car.
piercedasian you should do a tweeter installation! I need help doing that to my civic Hatchback
Also a note, if you are using 4gauge or larger wire it won't fit through the grommet with the hood release cable. Luckily, directly above the hood release cable like roughly 1" above there is plastic plug you can remove that provides another hole to route your power wire through. Just need a grommet or to drill out the plastic plug you remove from the hole.
That's a good point. I never actually have seen the larger 1" plug but if I ever upgrade my power cable from the small gauge that I used to a larger one I will consider that option. Thanks for sharing that knowledge.
Good videos man very detailed. Thumbs up
Thanks!
Great vid man👌🏼
I liked this video. Well done, and thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
Great job.....but I don't have the type R...any suggestions on where I can tap power from speakers on my SI coupe
The Bic pen 🖋 trick saved me so much time great idear thanks for this aw install video my sy looks better than a professional job
Glad the pen idea worked. I actually got the idea from a CivicX forum member called "CTRMOFO". The credit all goes to him for coming up with that hack.
You obviously havent seen any reputable work done before
Badass!! I also have a type r. Looking to do some of your mods. Subscribed
Nice! What year, color and unit number is yours? I love the Type R. It was worth the 20 or so year wait for one :)
@@piercedasian 2018 aegean blue. Don't recall the # somewhere at 15000. Awesome car.
sweet! Nice color and kick as car of course :)
Very clean install
Thanks!
Thanks for the video! Could you please provide a link or description for the white plastic power wire holder you installed to hold the power wire under the hood near the hood latch cable?
You did it! Thanks for sharing! ❤️
yes I did :) I had to as the amp makes the sub so much better in ways that I can't even describe. The Type R is easy to install in since it has that foam tire blank tray that you can put things into vs. other civics that have a spare tire in its place. I'll be doing a sport touring soon so we'll see how that pans out.
piercedasian fantastic! I will do this once my 2019 Type R arrives this spring. I already have the amp and sub speaker - just need the car
Your video has helped me so much! I own you a big thanks
Love how you took your time and did a professional job - I will do the same
Cheers!!!
glad you loved the video. Yes, take your time and do things right and you'll be rewarded with a nice looking and nice sounding system that is super reliable. Good luck on the car purchase.
helped with my remote thanks! I wish I would have ran through that outside gusset instead of the inside the engine bay one
Glad it helped
Fantastic video!!!
Thanks!
Well done trying this on my 07 e350. Good thing my battery is in the trunk
Aw man an E350 is super easy to install in b/c of the proximity of the battery. Just make sure you do not compromise the battery box if it is sealed and you wouldn't want a buildup of hydrogen gas in your trunk.
I recommend changing that gain control out, for an RCA level input knob. I personally run SPL cartel, because they're linear voltage, but you don't want gain control, because they're more prone to causing equipment damage. Also, move that power lead, to a better spot, you're going to cut through the shielding, opening and closing your hood.
Interesting advice. Although my gain control isn't via RCA the gain is still managed via the LC2i which is somewhat like RCA gain control but limited to the what the main gains are set on the output converter. As for the power cable I can assure you it won't cut through. I've wrapped it in split loom, foam tape and then ty wrapped them to the chassis and I've done lots of clearance checks to make sure it wouldn't pinch. But as you've said it could cut through the insulation but I usually check things like that regularly to make sure wires aren't chafing anywhere. Great advice nonetheless.
@@piercedasian I just do this competitively and I'm installing an lc2 in my daily build. I have a little bit of experience and try to give advice where I can.
that looks like a tough job! appreciate your video editing and sharing this with others!
It really isn't too bad to do. Patience and having the right tools and using a common sense approach to taking the car apart really made a difference.
Good Job !
Thanks!
I plan to do this tooo!!! but not yet not yet!!! Great video btw
Go for it! Glad you liked the video!
Great walk though, thank you! Quick question of ya'll don't mind. Since the line converter accepts 2 qty sets of high level inputs and the sub factory only has 1 qty set of high level, do you just run it to either the left or right or twist the 2 positive together & the 2 negative together?
nope, I just fed the stock sub signal cable into the left channel inputs of the LC2i. No need to feed both left and right in b/c there is only a mono feed.
Definitely not a bad install but I noticed a few things that should be done differently.
1) Power wires should realistically be run through the firewall and bundled with other wiring harnesses versus run through the fenderwell grommets which can allow moisture into the vehicle as the fender is not sealed off from rain in the same way the firewall is, considering the hood and cowl both have seals to prevent water ingress in the engine bay.
2) Power wires should be attached directly to the positive battery terminal. As it stands, you are powering the LC2i and that Rockford off the factory 8 or 10 gauge wiring from the battery to the fuse box, and it's not designed to handle the extra 15-20A nominal power you might be pulling on normal use. Connecting directly to the battery eliminates the possibility of stressing the stock power wire and it also eliminates the possibility of confusing the car's Electronic Load Detection and causing a fault.
3) While your LC2i is definitely a nice piece and has bass rolloff capabilities, your Rockford amp has the ability to accept speaker-level inputs and do its own signal step down, thereby almost completely eliminating the need for the LC2i. The LC2i can definitely be used as a signal clean-up and re-level if that's what you're looking for, but it was not entirely necessary and omitting it may have saved some time and effort, not to mention cost.
Overall quite good, everything should work beautifully. and considering the significantly higher quality of the components used versus stock, it probably sounds pretty good too.
All great tips indeed and in my other installations I've done points #1 and #2 but for the Type R I decided to go a slightly different route to spare me the pain of feeding a wire through a grommet in the firewall. So far after all these years I've had no moisture issues but then again my car is a sunny day, summer with no change of rain type of car. I won't drive it in the rain if I can avoid it (yes I'm crazy). With respect to the battery cable. I actually did a current draw test on the amp before installing everything and I wasn't pulling all the much power with the volume and bass levels I was listening at. At most about 7-8 amps which the stock power cable would be able to manage. You're definitely right though, if anyone runs a larger amp then that CAN pose a problem. I wanted the cleanest install I could possibly have with my setup without having to rejig the power connector on the battery. The LC2i does do a better job of restoring bass rolloff but yes many amps have that built in and probably could've made do without it.
Thanks for watching the vid and again, I appreciate the comments as it is definitely something to consider for others.
Hey great informative install I'm doing mostly the same ...but I just wanted to know what kind of window visors ur using ...I wanted weather tech but it's not avail for the type r..
Glad you liked my video. The window visors I'm using are the genuine Honda ones. I actually have the full detailed installation video on my youtube channel if you want to know part #'s are how to exactly install them properly.
Hey nice install , how did you tune the sub? I have a similar setup and im wondering how you tuned yours
do i need an lci2? i just got a new car and i took out my old sub and amp but they never installed an lci2, should i get one for my new installation? what exactly does it help with/do?
Wish I could use the same mounting location for the amp in my Sport Touring, but we have a spare tire instead. Only thing holding me back is not being able to conceal the amp as I don’t want it to be visible, or interfere with the cargo area. Maybe I’ll take the spare out!? Nevertheless, I appreciate the in depth guide! It’ll be the blueprint for my upgrade!
Yeah, I actually did an install in the sport touring and the only logical place I could mount it was the spare tire jack cover of all places! While you'd think it would be a terrible place to mount it that it has surprisingly held up there very good. I had to do some mods to the inside of the truck cover but we've retained the spare tire and the trunk deck had to be only slightly modified.
Great video, so I'm wondering if you only hook up one set of speaker wires to your LOC (looks like you did the left channel), does the signal come out of both RCA's to go to the amp? I'm going to tap into my sub on my 2019 civic SI with a LCi1, to add 2 10s and have a mono amp, but not sure if you need both RCA's? Or to hook up both channels to LOC to get both RCA's to output to the amp?
Very nice!
Thanks!
Nice setup, very good information, I just hooked mine up today and I did not know that you need a fuse holder from the power cable to the amp. Can you tell me where you got the fuse holder and are the wiring 12 gauge? I used some 12 gauge sting ofc wire for my power and ground to my tap from the amp. I don’t want any fires in my car. Will an inline fuse work from the auto parts store. Let me know where you got yours. I used ofc wire for all my wireing and the 12 guage worked great for the lc2i, I know that is overkill, lol.i have to use the best wires.
A few things to clarify first. 1. You need a fuse for the main power cable as close to the battery's + terminal as possible. The reason for that is to protect the battery in case your main power feeder cable shorts to chassis ground. The main power feed cable for my amp from the battery is a large 8 gauge cable. 2. The power cable to power the LC2i is tapped off the +ve terminal of the amplifier and that needs to be fused with a 1AMP to protect the LC2i in the event of an internal fault of the LC2i. I got the wiring and large cable fuse from my local stereo shop. The smaller LC2i inline fuse was purchased from my local auto parts store.
Amazing Video Very Detailed But Quick Question... I Love How The Amp & LC2i is Hidden Under The Trunk Lid This Wouldn’t Cause Them To Overheat? I Just Ask This Since There’s No Airway There I Suppose...
while they do get warm on really long extended drives that due to the efficient nature of class D amps that they don't get really hot at all. Warm yes - but no warmer than normal operating temps. I did a 10 hour long road trip listening to music at fairly loud listening levels and while the amp was extremely warm that it was far from hot and certainly not a fire hazard by any stretch of the imagination.
You think 8” kicker comp R will fit? Please post a video of the sound of your set up. Thanks and good tutorial btw.
The only way to tell if the kicker comp 8” will fit will depend on the depth of the kicker. If you look at my description it will show the exact
Ideal of Rockford sub I used. Look the specs up for that and compare them against the kicker you want to put in. Another sub had asked me to do a sound comparison video but I have been super busy that I have not been able to do a full fledged comparison of before and after. I promise I will get to that soon and post when I can. Stay tuned and don’t forget to click the little bell to be notified of new videos.
Tremendous job! Would you recommend a different audio control than the ACR1 since that looked a little tough to get it to fit?
In all honesty I probably would've went with the Rockford knob instead since it was so much smaller than the ACR1. The ACR1's advantage is that it decouples the dependency on the brand of amp you use. The challenge when using a bass knob with your amp is that say you fry your amp, then the matching bass knob for it may not work on another brand. When you use the ACR1 it will always control the source signal going to the amp. I guess in the long run it doesn't really matter much but I went with the ACR1 route b/c I got my Audio Control gear for cheap.
The other benefit is if your LC2i is behind the dash or under a seat, it’s an easier run for the control knob wire.
Thanks 👍
You're welcome!
Wow really nice video with great visual and speaking voice.
Do you have a link to the amp you bought or have the suggestions on an updated model?
Check out the links In the description. Great speaking voice? I wonder what it is about it as you're not the first person to tell me that :)
I'm here for the LC2i shown in the thumbnail as I'm considering one. My '19 WRX needs LOTS of help in the audio department thanks to poor, unbalanced audio tuning on Subaru's part.
Good luck!
Perfect explanation of installing, but ive got a question... With audiocontrol unit, there was not presented alternator noises?
nope, none in my car.
First off awesome videos and very clean install. Two questions I have for you is 1) Do you hear or notice any rattling noises considering that you mounted the sub into a factory, plastic enclosure? I’ve always used MDF sub enclosures but I was considering this option to save space in the trunk and not have a box. And 2) Does the bass from the sub sound evenly throughout the car even though the sub is mounted on the right side of the car?
glad you liked the vid! I honestly can't say that I really hear any buzzing from the rear. Totally agree that MDF is the way to go but for the sake of factory look and fit that I went the route that I did and I don't regret it. It isn't going to shake my fillings out but it is a DRASTIC improvement over the factory sub. Yes the bass is fairly even throughout the car. Only thing that is wonky is the sub sounds "poppy" when you've got the hatch open and you're in front of it - similar to being almost overdriven but yet when you're sitting in the car with the doors and hatch closed that it seems okay. Not the best description for you but that's the only way I can describe it.
Question do I have to run the RCA cable from the aftermarket radio to the back of the trunk..or just the power cable?
Rosendo Yanes ... if you have an aftermarket amp in the trunk, then yes you’ll need to run RCAs. Be sure to run them down the middle or or the opposite side to your power wire.
Very detailed vid man! Just waiting on my stuffs. Question, what size did you use for the foam tape? And what do you call that clip zip for the wire going through the fender? Thanks in advance!
The zip clip was actually sourced from Honda. They had them as part of their block heater kits. I don't know if they formally have a name to them but you CAN buy them. They're used in various spots of cars to attached air conditioning condenser fan wiring harnesses to the fan shroud. Just pull up any Honda's part diagram and pick one. They all work the same.
Final question, thank you for answering the other questions, where did you put the ground for the lc2i, did you use the same bolt or the black cable, and where did you get the power cable from the lc2i to the amp
Yep, I grounded the LC2i to the same ground as the amplifier. The black cable for the LC2i is plain old twisted copper wire you can buy at any automotive parts store.
Great installing and very nice video! I'm planning to install a sub on my 2017 CRV LX and it doesn't have a sub the back like your Civic. Do I have to remove the head unit to wire my amp (the signal wires)? If yes could you explain a little about how to do that please? Thank you so much!
If your CRV doesn't have a sub out then you'll need to remove the head unit and locate the front speaker outputs and then tap into that signal and feed it into your LC2i. Do you have the same exact headunit as another CRV that has the premium sound system? Do the higher tramline CRVs even come with a sub? If yes then you may be lucky and can tap into the sub output and pull signal from there.
@@piercedasian Thank you for replying, my CRV is a base model so it doesnt have the premium sound system(160-watt AM/FM audio system with MP3/Windows Media® Audio playback capability
and 4 speakers), but the head unit is the same for other higher models. I'm not sure if the other trimline has a sub though. So best way is to tap into the front or rear speakers to the LOC and from LOC to the amp, right?
thanks so much!
You're welcome!
Another great DIY!
Any plans on upgrading front door speaker and front tweeters?
Thanks! At this point probably not since I find it difficult to justify the cost to replace the speakers and installing an amp and all the related items (LC7i). The effort and cost just isn't worth it for my application. When I'm driving my car I like to listen to the road and engine and even if I wanted to listen to a nice stereo that the road noise will drown out pretty much everything anyways.
Great video 👍. if you found some nice beats for your time lapse shots be nice to put it. To each there own tho
I didn't put beats to my time lapse because CZcams gets all picky and legal crazy on me when I use music so I opted to not bother and left it the way it is. Trust me when I say that I WANTED to put music to it but I hate legal battles and the hassles that come with it.
Amazing video! Do you know the size of the wire that connects the amp to the stock sup? Is it 16 gauge?
the wire from the amp to the stock sub? Well the wire I put in was 16 gauge but the factory sub wires inside the enclosure were these puny 20 gauge wires.
How can I hook this up to a 4 channel amp for my mids & a regular 1 channel amp on my subs? I have a Lc2i
Hmm, if you're going to amplifier more than the sub then you're going to need a different audio control unit. Recommend you look into the other LC models. I cannot recall if Audio Control made a LC4 or and LC5. I do know they make a LC7i where you can amplifier ALL channels with full eq restoration to the audio spectrum.
Nice video
Thanks
Do you need to upgrade your battery or a capacitor to cater for the increase of power drawing from the amp and sub?
Generally not if you’re running a modern high efficiency class D amp. You’d have to run some additional amps or have gigantic ones before you need to consider a 2nd battery, larger alternator and adding caps to make up for the voltage drops from that kind of current draw.
Thank you so much for making this! I plan on attempting it with the same sub. I was wondering if you’ve had any issues with the sub bouncing on the factory grill at higher volumes? I read somewhere on a forum of someone having that issue with the Rockford setup.
no bouncing off the factory grill whatsoever. This could very well happen if you're over driving the sub b/c the rockford sub definitely has more "excursion" travel than the factory sub has. I don't push my sub to its limits so I can't speak to whether or not that would happen.
Very cool. I understand this all. But what i must do with radio? Also for chinch signal ( radio/amplifier) 😊 pls help. I dont understand how to get the radio removed 🙈
You never have to remove the radio b/c there is nothing you can tap off from it that you can't get from the back. If you watch my other subwoofer upgrade video and this amp video that it is all you need to get the sub and amp in (for the sub only). If you want to do the other speakers then you have to tap into the factory amp which is in the right front kick panel and even that requires some detailed understanding on how to do it right.
not sure if you have answered this question but, ive been looking at the thread from CTRMofo for a while and am still debating if i want to change all the speakers and subs since i want to keep the car relatively oem. what are your thoughts on each part of the set up ? meaning.. do you think it will be a significant upgrade if i just install an amp, or should i go and change all the speakers around the car as well. the question is derived from a cost saving saving standpoint but rather i want to eliminate changing out oem parts as much as possible. the oem sound system is rather lacking. thanks !
Ah yes CTRMOFO! Great guy! His setup is really nice and the sound improvement is likely significant - so much so that I'm debating on doing the same to mine. While I simply did a sub and sub amp upgrade that if you wanted to stay relatively OEM them do at the very minimum the upgrade I demonstrated in my video. If you find the sound still lacking then I'd then look at adding aftermarket amps to the stock speakers and see if you like it. You'd be amazed at how much better things can sound with improved amplification. If that is still NOT to your liking then the final step would be to upgrade to better speakers. Unfortunately with audio, the sky is the limit and what sounds good to me may not satisfy your wants. While I fully agree that going full aftermarket is really the only way to audio bliss that similar to what you've said, I try to stick to OEM as much as possible for cost reasons. It's expensive to buy GOOD quality equipment and even more expensive to buy high quality speakers. Not sure of what your goals are with your civic years down the road but I have my fingers crossed that my Type R 25 years from now will be worth something similar to the original Integra Type R so the less I mod it the better off I'll be. I save my money to invest in superior sounding audio for my home rather than in a car that I barely drive more than 5000kms a year. Each to their own but that's how I'd approach your specific problem.
I missed the part where you got the RCA audio source out from the Factory stereo unit to the LC2i. Thanks
you're welcome!
Sorry if I missed it but how did you connect the remote wire to the amp?
You feed the remote in from the LC2i to the remote trigger on the amp. The LC2i is what sends the 12 volt signal for the amp to turn on.
You can get high quality RCAs with an integrated line out wire. One less cable to run/fish.
Do you think you would be able to fit 0 gauge wire? I just sold my A8L and I kept the sub. I had the sub getting 2000 watts rms and the battery was located in the trunk so it was an easy install. Now I'm not sure I can send that much power if I cannot get the 0 gauge wire to properly be installed and unseen. Any help is appreciated. I have a 2021 type r
You can fit anything you'd like but whether or not it will go through the hood release grommet is another story. I would imagine that for something THAT thick you'd want to drill a dedicated hole and insert your own grommet to feed that cable in. You probably can get that cable to be concealed under the trim along the door but it will definitely be a challenge. What kind of system are you running that would warrant that kind of power draw? If you're going to pull THAT much juice you gotta make sure you tap directly off the positive terminal of the battery as the method I used for my car is for a small amp that doesn't pull too many amps even when pushed to its limit.
How safe is it to mount amp fuse on power wire from fuse box as oppose to the actual battery? Any input would be appreciated, Thanks!
Do not do that. The reason why you need a direct line to the battery is to ensure you do not overload the car's existing electrical system which often uses MUCH thinner gauge wires than a dedicated amplifier power cable. If you run your amp from the fuse box then you'll be effectively starving your amplifier of current that it may require during heavy bass passages. The purpose of the fuse is to protect the wiring and the battery in the event of a short in the cable somewhere. The inline fuse is to prevent a car fire and battery explosion due to a short so the closer to the battery you can get the fuse the better.
Nice looking install. I have used the LC2i before, but not the remote knob. Does it just lower the gain through the LC2i, or does it actually control some sort of boost? Also, I assume because you tapped the wires that were going into the factory sub, that the signal you sent to the LC2i was actually coming from the factory subwoofer amp. Thanks!
The remote knob is basically the gain control at your fingertips. Yes you are correct that the LC2i is taking signal from the factory stereo’s sub amp output. That is actually why the LC2i is needed as these new fangdangled headunits do some weird amplification /EQing to the signals that messes up aftermarket equipment.
Nice video. How you ran your power cable from under the hood, does it not get pinched when the hood is closed?
nope not at all. There is a LOT of clearance where I routed the cable. Key thing is to make sure rubbing doesn't cut through the wire's insulation as that would be a very bad and dangerous thing (engine bay fire). That is why the fuse is placed where it is placed. As close to the positive terminal as possible.
This might be a stupid question but does this method also give more watts and amplify the other speakers In the car because I want to modify the door speakers but the factory amp can’t handle the rms and watts
No not a stupid question at all. If you don't install things like this regularly then it can be confusing. Yes the amp does add more power to the audio system but ONLY for the sub. All car makers fudge their audio system power specs. They rate the systems at peak output before the stereo will blow up which is a crappy way to make factory wattage look higher. That being said, adding a sub amp doesn't add any additional power to the other speakers, they will need their own DSP and amplifier to work properly. You're just in luck that you asked this question! I'm actually planning a DSP amp install in my 10th gen civic along with a front speaker upgrade to something quite high end to REALLY amp up (no pun intended) the soundstage with excellent quality audio. I have purchased the speakers already and I'm just waiting for more funds to come in so that I can pull the trigger on my DSP + 8 channel amplifier. If you're interested, keep an eye out on my channel for the vid. It will probably be installed at some point in the late spring/early summer as it is still quite chilly where I am.
Where in the diagram would I add a capacitor? Kinda stuck in that with my 17 civic
the capacitor? That's easy. Hook the negative terminal from the cap to ground and then hook up the + ve terminal of the cap to the power cable from the battery and then using another wire hook up the + ve of the amp to the +ve of the cap. Just PAY CLOSE ATTENTION to the polarity of the cap such that you don't mix - ve and + ve up.
That crx 😍
yeah the CRX is my baby. Its sees very little road time and literally no rain. I even stopped washing it and just letting the dust "blow off" of it when I dry b/c the more water you expose to the car the higher the chances that whatever rust that is buried deep in the welds of the car will only get worse. There is absolutely zero visible rust (I had the stuff that was rusting completely cut out and replaced with new honda pieces when they used to be available. The dryer the car stays the better off it will be for many many more years.