How to Survive a 50ft Wave on The Head with Shane Dorian: Smith Brothers Podcast
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- čas přidán 20. 05. 2024
- Get insider tips and insights from legendary big wave surfer Shane Dorian in this must-see episode of the Smith Brothers Podcast! Shane shares his journey from childhood to professional surfing, including the challenges and triumphs of big wave surfing. Learn about the next generation of surfers and hear about Shane's incredible near death experiences. Don't miss out on this captivating conversation, perfect for surf enthusiasts and adrenaline junkies alike!
▬ Contents of this video ▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬▬
0:00 - 0:37 Introduction
0:37 - 1:35 Jackson Dorian is living good
1:35 - 4:07 thoughts on the next generation
4:07 - 8:44 Shane's story of coming to the north shore solo at age 15
kids nowadays having it too easy - adversity births motivation
12:20 -13:26 pushing yourself to grow
13:26 - 18:00 getting into big wave surfing / what made you think about paddling into jaws?
18:00 - 23:32 Mindset on Surfing Jaws
23:32 - 25:35 Breathwork before wipeouts
25:35 - 30:00 Wiping out
30:00 - 33:38 do you still have the big wave mentality?
33:38 - 36:30 have you almost died surfing?
36:30 - 42:13 Pioneering big wave pull vests + water safety
42:13 - 45:10 How is big wave surfing similar to hunting? / Patience is key
45:10 - 46:50 Diet/Elk Energy
46:50 - 49:20 Elk mating is like Pipeline
49:20 - 52:28 Koa’s dream wave
52:28 58:38 Concussions / fear cannot be replicated / healing from brain trauma
58:38 - 59:11 - Sunrise Shack Shot break
59:11 - 1:08:44 Memories w/ Andy Irons
1:08:44 -1:12:12 Does Ethan Ewing surf like andy?
1:12:12 - 1:13:02 Do you coach Jackson’s surfing?
1:13:02 - 1:16: 07 Do wave pools help his surfing progress?
1:16:07 - 1:20:27 Competitive Surfing in wave pools?
1:20:27 - 1:25:53 CZcams Dad Life
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Shane has the humility, maturity and unselfishness to think of his wife and family over his own ego. Massive respect.
And then you go watch Kelly's 11 part series lol, that guy needs to chill😅 still love him, but dam kelly, it's like a full blown military guy whos seen it all trying to return back to civilian life 😂
“You can get cosmic” at the same time?! That’s too pure and divine! Much love 💕
Wonderful podcast with big hearted Shane, mahalo! At 73 now in Kona … am sooo grateful I grew up as a teen NS surfing 60’s as it shaped who I became … and now 💕 loving hearing all of your life stories unfolding. And I love how you guys are now questioning things, as lots to sort thru … the good, bad & ugly. Anyways, once a surfer, always a surfer … and so feeling the need these days to reconnect with the Silver Surfer Legion of Consciousness … as nothing else feels here like my true Home, my true Tribe … watching you guys setting a pono example for the kids generationally … great 🤗 love to you all.
This is the podcast that surfing needs. I love how professional you guys are doing it, keep it up
❤ that Shane pushed it so hard that he can walk away with a smile and give others a heads up
Commitment is the take away from this podcast. Well done.
I thought it was get cosmic haha
I remember being landlocked hating my life and literally living vicariously through the articles in Surfer Mag about these dudes larger than life - Dorian, Brock Little, Doerner these guys were my heroes. They had all the luck growing up there but put in the work when life was tough. I loved that Shane talked about adversity being the thing that actually helps a person break through to that next level. This really resonates with me having escaped death by the Hells Angels and turning that into an opportunity to go into lockdown mode and practice flamenco guitar for 12 hrs a day. It was a blessing in disguise and that’s something that yeah kids today are missing. Life is sooo safe and comfy now for ppl its hard for me to respect many of the dudes coming up because they just seem so privileged. Well, imho most surfers are privileged. I mean if you grow up near good surf that you have access to then you’re lucky. Wish I’d see more giving back to the less fortunate ones from all these blessed ppl on the north shore. Outreach equals gratitude equals respect. You want something to help build character in your comfy ass life? Go help some less fortunate out. I’ll never forget the Xmas where all my cousins pitched in to buy me a proper wetsuit. It was a little thing to them. But to the poor kid that lived in the tent in Ventura with the shitty gear that all those posh surfers taunted me for, it meant the world. Anyways, man you guys crushed it. That’s probably the first podcast I’ve ever listened to all the way. Have always admired Dorian and his crew. Thanks you guys for this special interview
Shane is an absolute legend! Amazing podcast boys. You are naturals at this and it’s going to be big.
I love cuzz's part in the old VHS tape GOODTIMES!!!! Shane shreds that part. I'm 37 an he's one dude I've always watched an always pushed my progression as a grom an even older in my 20s an 30s. Keep shredding Mr. Dorian...
Best podcast I've ever heard. Hearing stories from Shane Dorian is insane
Glad my suggestion quickly became a reality great minds think alike. 😄
You can get cosmic... 😆 This podcast is a great idea. Great guest for sure.
Great Pod! Shane is a legend. You guys captured magic there when Shane was telling the story about diving under that Jaws wave. I got chills. Keep it up guys!
Another video would be cool interviewing multiple big wave surfers just on being caught by sets, beat downs and what to do or not to do in specific situations. 1)Take off your leash and dive deep? 2) leave leash on and shallow dive? 3) best position to place your board to limit its chances of snapping? Parallel to wave? 4) no floatation, float vests, CO2 vests, and how each would affect their decision making? I have been surfing in Hawaii for 30 years and am surprised at how little I know and have been taught.
Love Shane’s insight and humbleness! My wife has the best picture of Shane and would like to give it to him. Also you are her favorite surfer and named her dog Kia.
Koa
great podcast with one of the legendary goat, big respect for the man achievements and humility.
Great chat with one of my favourite surfers. Always been a fan of Shane's. Cheers
Sheesh he is such a legend!!
Really enjoyed this podcast. Has the right combination. Mr. Dorian had some good comments and good stories. Wise man.🤙
Shane is a legend.
My niece was over this weekend... Long story short I shared your Skeleton Bay ride which I ( like Dorian) watched many times
Going the distance here, at the "Andy Irons" question. Great Pod
This and the Koa and Nate podcast are great. Well done.
Great podcast Shane is the GOAT of paddling into extra large Peahi
Let’s gooo back for another pod! Love you guys! 🤘🏼
Yes sir, my boys are back..let’s get some good vlogs going. How about you guys try skating this year, let’s see some tre flips lol
Love the Andy irons bit . What a legend
great one ! talking about surfing as it is - so full of meanings - serious stuff , not just lets go and get barreled ... but all the aspects of it , from each side ... what many ppl don't really understand about surfing not only ppl who never surfed and don't get why you changed your whole life for it but even that ppl who surf - so many are just totally not tuned in - ever ... what's really weird to explain .. and nothing boring in being in point of life that there are no more great projects on the way like Shane is right there where he wants to be - so good to hear from at least one human in this planet of running, lost humans all over the globe ! thank you guys , that was really good to be part of and more cosmic stuff too pls hahah
Excellent! Great idea, seeing you guys together doing this is excellent, and Shane is a living legend, great session!
From GunHo/GunShy to "nothing good ever comes from being comfortable" and your FREAK AWESOME accounts from Pe'ahi and Mavs and the rest - AWESOME interview!!! I pray you get that 25-foot barrel at Jaws!! 🌊💙🤙🙏
What a LEGEND!
Best podcast ever. Shane is the man.
Shane has many bodhisattva qualities
So fascinating….
TY so much….🌊🏄🏼♂️🤙‼️
Thank you for the insight Shane. Great job Koa keep working hard.
Great podcast and great conversation
Completely agree. The world we live in likes to focus on all of the negative things instead of all of the good and positive things we have. We have it so good, especially here in America. A lot of kids growing up would benefit a lot from visiting third world countries and seeing what struggling really means. It humbled me alot when I saw it, great take on that Shane!
Humble surfers gathering and sharing their insight! Aloha from bali island indonesia 🤙🤙🤙🏝🏝🏄
Great podcast guys. You can sense humility and friendship amongst you all. I wonder how many lives Shane's saved with his inflatable vest invention? That has arguably had more of an impact on heavy wave surfing than anything else in the last 40 years. For all his accomplishments its crazy how humble the guy is.
the smith brosssss, are back!!!!
Keep going. This content is good for surfers.
Absolutely loving the podcasts!! 👏🤙 SO GOOD!
Damn this podcast got good real fast!
Great stuff. Love that you strip out the commercialism and talk about things that you know about or struggle with and you make it more about understanding and sharing ideas than making points or telling stories which is cool. Be real and take it from the man.
What a great podcast guys! You guys all really kept it so interesting! Even tho I haven’t surfed in 30 years, I can see and feel your passion. It’s always great to see generations share the love of sport! It’s always been like that with me playing hockey. I absolutely love following your sport! Thanks for making it so cool and interesting and inspiring! Shane has so much experience and wisdom, it’s awesome!Koa I’ve been cracking up at your vids lately! 😂 they’re great! you’re an absolute beauty! Keep it up guys! Stay safe and keep tearing it up out there! Aloha
Good stuff boys!
Podcast exceeded all my expectations! Might be the best surf podcast i've ever listened to. Shane told some raw stories, stoked me out to continue charging. Solid work
Fantastic podcast. Nice work. I always wondered what the wives and partners felt about having a big wave relationship. Thank you Smith Brothers for your commentary on life
This is a very good podcast. Well done guys. Shane is an absolute wealth of knowledge and he is very good at explaining the process. #Legendary
Brilliant conversation. I was wondering when we would get a 2nd episode and this was so worth the wait. It sounded like Shane had a near death experience, maybe next time you have him on he can speak more about what that was like for him. Love what you’re bringing to the table here ❤
choo choo all aboard the podcast train!
Great podcast. Dorian is the man
I LOVE YOU ALL SO MUCH!!! Adored this podcast episode
Great Podcast Smith Bros!!!
Shane rocks 🤙
Love the pod !
I like the quote I heard on Rogan: Hard times create strong men, strong men create good times, good times create weak men, weak men create hard times. G. Michael Hopf.
What a great conversation, I'm super motivated and inspired to Amp up my game, and reminded of why I love travelling to new countries alone, surfing new waves and meeting new people, trying new foods, and being completely out of my comfort zone.....looking forward to my next trip in a couple weeks!!!!!
Amazing talk. Grateful.. 🙏 Prayers go out to your buddy Billy. Hope he's going to be alright. His body has already been through so much trauma. I just had epidurals & was thinking about you, out there.
Keep up the great work 🙌
Great Podcast guys! I even liked this one more than the one with Shane on Rogan. You did great letting him speak about his experiences without interrupting. Well done. Dorian is a legend.
sick pod boys, keep it going🤙🏻
Great pod cast some very interesting thoughts
Good conversation guys
This was phenomenal boys. Great interview. Very genuine and that’s what counts most. Great conversation.
FYAH! Always amazing to hear behind the scenes thinking , amazing content #legends #rollmodel #mentalhealth
KEEP CHARGING in and out of da water 🤙🏽
As a Canadian and therefore atuned to snow sports, this was an interesting podcast. As a ski instructor many moons ago in Quebec, there is nothing like sports and their collective passion as a platform for life !! Now back to mountain biking here in Beautiful British Columbia !!
this was awesome! thank you!
Kudos to you Shane. You are right, most kids nowadays are privileged and entitled. Growing up we had paper routes and washed dishes to earn money. We made our own surfboards and skateboard decks and knew what an honest days work was and what it was like to go hungry. Adversity does build character..😊
So sick!!! Enjoyed this podcast a lot, thank you guys! Get cosmic!
Awesome conversation that was insightful, genuine, and worthwhile. Lots to pull from here, thank you gents
Ho Damn Shane you truly a Legend. Thank you!
Awesome Pod Smith Bros.! Making a good Pod's hard work but you guy's seem to have the knack.
Shane-o's story's sooooo gnarly but hella inspirational! Mahaloz mucho! 😛🤙
Shane ... You made my heart rate go up hahah Epic podcast boys!!❤🔥🤙🏼
Live ur content and thank you for ur awesome vids
29:30 Thanks for that. Reaffirmed my suspicion. I will never dive deep again at way outside sunset w/ leash on. Did this, had to climb my leash(10') to get to the surface w/ barley enough time to get another breath, twice that same beat down! And after all that im STILL way outside. Took another 15-20 waves on the head before finally getting washed in enough to recover(paddle to shore). Fast forward one year same place, same situation. This time just barely went under the surface, got pounded(obviously) by multiple waves, but pushed me in far enough to be out of danger. 8'0" was broken in half though.
Great discussion - thanks for sharing!
"Shane Dorian is the person we all wish Kelly Slater was" said someone on Surf Splendor. Thanks for this.
Great podcast 💙
Killer episode!! 🇨🇦
Loved Shano's insight on character and talking AI RIP🙏❤️ being a gen x 4 years younger than Shane.
I'd say the younger gen need a little more self confidence, self respect and belief in yourselves and your pursuits.
I think adversity and struggle does that to you.
Lastly Smith boys if it's your passion and you believe in it enough and it's good not hurting anyone.
Go for it like a bull at a gate, lock horns if you have to. This doesn't mean your an aggressive person just passionate and that's an essence i believe to success.
To be confident isn't arrogant you can be very humble too.
Believe in what your doing and saying and don't hear Ney sayers their the jealous ones hating on you and doubting you coz you had the kahunas to believe and act on an idea.
Power to you Smith boyzzz.... stay you!
keep on keeping on!
Yeeeewwww 🤙🤙🤙🙏❤️
Venison is delicious!
Enjoyed the podcast, good job.
Great job 👏
Inspiring! Thank you for this channel and video! 🙏🏼😇💚💖🌎🫶
Wow. Great job guys. This is a long session, and I'll need to digest it in sections.
Never heard of Shane Dorian until I picked up the movie "In Gods Hands"...Greats like Shaun Thomson in it. I believe it was Todd Chesser who died as one of their stunt men in between filming. You can see in many movies how someone has passed during or after the filming. Movies can be strange that way. It would be interesting to calculate the number per movies of people who passed. The latest being with Baldwins movie. The Crow. Another indigenous movie I just watched, 2 people passed away. Bruce Lee died before his last and greatest movie came out. In God's Hands, Mickey chooses to go out the surfing way, but tells Shane's character that he knows Shane could Paddle into one. Low and Behold, Dorian in real life paddles into the Giants. Shane being a co-developer of the inflatable surf vests has given many people almost an over confidence. We surfed giants and had to take the poundings and wipe outs and hold downs, losing our boards. I've heard some young girls talk about wiping out and then casually saying "then I popped open my vest", yet I too see the lack of that survival knowledge us surfers who fought for our lives in big surf, yet I'm thankful it saves lives....the quandaries.
I love the train scenes and his solo trek to surf off mexico....
Shaun Thomson is another amazing legend just before Shane's time. Please pick up his books and/or listen to him on CZcams.....his upbringing is amazing! Talk about adversity! A shark bit off his Father's arm. His mom, was from England I believe and had to run to bomb shelters. Shaun is a great man also, I've met him here in San Diego. Please grommets, young surfers and pros alike, don't forget your seniors and elders like Shaun and Shane, the heavies from the 70's and 80's.....Shaun, Lopez, Carroll, Richards.....Curren, Keaoloha, Buttons, Potter, Occy,....and too many others to list. Surfing was bigger than life in the 80s in southern California and the world. Glad I enjoyed it.....-SD South mission Jetty local.
Wonderful podcast - congrats!!!
Agree with CZcams channel thing. It’s hard. My channel sucks 😢. Appreciate the serious conversation in this interview. Great podcast and didn’t feel like I wasted my life by watching this. Good questions and learned some things about surfing 🙏🏾🤙🏾
Shawn Briley.....haven't heard that name in a while....he was a beast
If you didn't know better, you'd swear this was a parody of Chris Farley interviewing Paul McCartney.
It's that good.
Epic podcast, guys !!
That was very entertaining! Good job..
*Taking notes* -Clear and blank-
Got it
Betthany paddled into Jaws......🤩
Is there a link to Spotify? Would love to listen to your podcast while driving to surf!
Really interesting conversation. Quality.
Visually, I think maybe rethink the forest of mic cranes, kind of takes away from the four of you meeting together, crowding you out and getting in the way of your faces, which are, of course so important for communicating. Keep it up, keep refining.
I remember that article on Surfing or Surfer where Shane almost drowned it was crazy. Must of read it more than 10 times that how it use to be before you tube.
Really good podcast
Maybe this is a dumb question, but I’ve seen a product out there that’s an underwater portable oxygen cylinder. Looks maybe like the size of a can of bear spray. Maybe there’s smaller portable ones too(if there’s not, why not invent one). Seems it’s something that you could strap on to your thigh or somewhere where it wouldn’t be in the way, and when running low on air, you can reach for it. I get that part of the allure and romance of big wave surfing is the inherent dangers of it, but nobody wants to die either.
Concussions are no joke, listen to your body (and Dr. Amen) over the ego! Surfing is supposed to work with and for you, not damage you.
It’s a challenge to find the difference between too much hardship for growth vs. damage.
Wish it was a couple hours longer
Good work. And has a real professional "podcast" feel, not just some random "let's talk shit and laugh a lot and record it" type of thing, which can sometimes be a little annoying, even stressful, to listen to.
I was just thinking these guys need a podcast lol