In my opinion the Arisaka rifles were the best bolt action rifles used in world war two. They're so simple to field strip and have chrome lined chambers and barrels to prevent rust.
they were the best in ww1 as well. At a tie with the m1917 and 1903. SMLE would get third place as it was a weak action and had a terrible sight picture. And the bolt curvature would sometimes pinch your hand along with a very stiff closing motion. The arisaka which was also cock on close was undoubtedly far smoother than the smle closing.
Bubba'd/sporterized rifles tend to be fairly affordable. A proper intact Type 38 is likely VERY collectable in America and worth a substantial amount, but a sporterized one? Not so much. I can give context from up here in Canada. I can remember when the Mk.III* often went for about $300-350, No.4 for $350-400, and No.5 for $400-450. All Lee Enfields, and for further context for those who may not know, the Mk.III* is the SMLE of WWI (Canada adopted No.4 during WWII), No.4 is the WWII model (Australia and India stuck with the Mk.III*), and No.5 is the "Jungle Carbine" which is a bit on the rare side, only produced in England and only for 2-3 years or so. But a sporterized Lee Enfield with the stock cut away? Typically $100. MAYBE $150 but I more often saw $100. So yeah, basically one third of the usual price, maybe even one quarter in some cases. A full-length Military stock does a lot in maintaining a rifle's value...
I absolutely love my Type 99 Arisaka. It too was sporterized after being captured, which is a real shame, because it actually has an intact imperial seal. But regardless, it's one of my favorite rifles to shoot; a nice, smooth action, reasonably accurate for what it is, and I have to begrudgingly admit that the sporter stock that it was put into is actually quite comfortable. Finding ammo is such a pain, and when I do find it it's usually around $40 for a box of 20, so I recently began reloading.
If you can't find ammo online, try local gun stores. I lucked out at a local gun store and picked up a box and a half of 6.5 along with 10 extra cases. You never what you may find, especially if they like to sell used ammo.
Be sure to get some dyes and primers and what not. Reloading ammo is a GREAT way to save money, and you can also try tinkering with different bullet weights and CAREFULLY tinker with velocities, especially with a solid action like the Type 38's Mauser bolt. Different rifles have different tastes. One Mosin might print better with .313 180gr bullets, another might print better with lighter 150gr bullets and .311 cal. Helps to bore your rifle to see what calibre the lands/grooves are. A capable reloader can provide ammunition for himself or herself that is substantially cheaper and of greater quality/precision/accuracy than commercially-made or Milsurp stuff. But, again, be safe and careful. Use a reloading book. Do not experiment dangerously. And if you already know all this, apologies for preaching to the choir, but hey, someone else might happen upon this reply and learn a bunch of interesting stuff that they hadn't known prior.
In my opinion the Arisaka rifles were the best bolt action rifles used in world war two. They're so simple to field strip and have chrome lined chambers and barrels to prevent rust.
they were the best in ww1 as well. At a tie with the m1917 and 1903. SMLE would get third place as it was a weak action and had a terrible sight picture. And the bolt curvature would sometimes pinch your hand along with a very stiff closing motion.
The arisaka which was also cock on close was undoubtedly far smoother than the smle closing.
The bolts are so easy to disassemble, really simple and easy to use safety as well.
Whoever sporterized it needs to be in jail
Seems like you save a lot of bubba rifles. Still cool rifles at heart
Bubba'd/sporterized rifles tend to be fairly affordable. A proper intact Type 38 is likely VERY collectable in America and worth a substantial amount, but a sporterized one? Not so much.
I can give context from up here in Canada. I can remember when the Mk.III* often went for about $300-350, No.4 for $350-400, and No.5 for $400-450. All Lee Enfields, and for further context for those who may not know, the Mk.III* is the SMLE of WWI (Canada adopted No.4 during WWII), No.4 is the WWII model (Australia and India stuck with the Mk.III*), and No.5 is the "Jungle Carbine" which is a bit on the rare side, only produced in England and only for 2-3 years or so.
But a sporterized Lee Enfield with the stock cut away? Typically $100. MAYBE $150 but I more often saw $100. So yeah, basically one third of the usual price, maybe even one quarter in some cases.
A full-length Military stock does a lot in maintaining a rifle's value...
I absolutely love my Type 99 Arisaka. It too was sporterized after being captured, which is a real shame, because it actually has an intact imperial seal. But regardless, it's one of my favorite rifles to shoot; a nice, smooth action, reasonably accurate for what it is, and I have to begrudgingly admit that the sporter stock that it was put into is actually quite comfortable. Finding ammo is such a pain, and when I do find it it's usually around $40 for a box of 20, so I recently began reloading.
0:17 LMAO!!! 😂😂😂 "Thank you Kevin!", I think Kevin wants in on the action 😆
so, what about the "hard to use" part?
Lack of ammo
@@theblindsniper9130Make your own like I did TODAY!
Dam Kevins got a mouth on him, thems is fightin' worlds
This is why we reload.
I have the T38 carbine, minus dust cover. Brass for that is often tough to get too
Ahaha Kevin 🤣👍🏼
Had a random Peacock that got around my home town when I was younger. His name was Andrew 😅
cool guns but the ammo is a pain to find
“Sportarized” lol
If you can't find ammo online, try local gun stores. I lucked out at a local gun store and picked up a box and a half of 6.5 along with 10 extra cases. You never what you may find, especially if they like to sell used ammo.
Aye, Ive gotten a lot of ammo like this lol
Be sure to get some dyes and primers and what not. Reloading ammo is a GREAT way to save money, and you can also try tinkering with different bullet weights and CAREFULLY tinker with velocities, especially with a solid action like the Type 38's Mauser bolt. Different rifles have different tastes. One Mosin might print better with .313 180gr bullets, another might print better with lighter 150gr bullets and .311 cal. Helps to bore your rifle to see what calibre the lands/grooves are.
A capable reloader can provide ammunition for himself or herself that is substantially cheaper and of greater quality/precision/accuracy than commercially-made or Milsurp stuff.
But, again, be safe and careful. Use a reloading book. Do not experiment dangerously.
And if you already know all this, apologies for preaching to the choir, but hey, someone else might happen upon this reply and learn a bunch of interesting stuff that they hadn't known prior.
Blind sniper 😂😂
NOOO why is it sporterized?!? Poor thing 😭😭
Had a Type 38 carbine. Had it rechambered to .257 Roberts. Found out later that bore was worn so bullets keyholed.😢
Why would you sporterize something like this? What is the purpose of that?
It was probably done back in the 60s
Rip it's sporterized
Cock on close? I didn't know that, somehow I couldn't find the info about it. And is it a push-feed or a controlled feed?
I wonder how easy it would be to convert one to 6.8 creedmoor?🤔
people only convert them to 7.62 39
Japan: use Arisaka
Indonesian national Hero's whit their's bamboo: exist.
Japan: 🌚 i am still brave
Only thing hard to watch is the lack of oil on the internals
I use a dry lube since im around a sandy area