FiTech Tuning: Setting the timing
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
- I'm setting the timing and adjusting it for FiTech. When I installed my Fitech I didn't have a timing pointer and couldn't accurately set the timing on my Fitech. In this video I walk through how to set up your Fitech timing and ignition control accurately.
When I installed my Fitech I also installed an MSD Pro Billet distributor, and locked it out. Fitech recommends using a phased rotor as well, so I installed one of those.
MSD Pro Billet: amzn.to/2LbME48
Rotor Phasing Kit: amzn.to/2LjnIHn
How to Lock out Distributor: • How to lock out an MSD...
Buy the FiTech here: amzn.to/2WZBRPv
*NOTE: If you buy a FiTech from Amazon, buy it from FITech, not a third party or FiTech will not be under warranty if something goes wrong*
First, make sure your distributor is at 10 degrees before top dead center and your phased rotor is at 0. Then select "Ignition
Setup" from the Calibration screen on your Fitech hand held controller. The first option is "Distr Base Timing" and set this to 10 (or 10.1).
Then phase your distributor. Phasing your distributor for
Programmable Timing simply means lining up your rotor with the post on the cap so that when the ECU sends the spark, it will have a nice short direct gap to fire creating a strong spark and little chance for a misfire. To do this line up the center of the reluctor wheel (this is the 8 paddle wheel) with the center of the pickup on the distributor.
Then twist the adjustable rotor counterclockwise (on a Ford 302) 10 degrees. Then, put the distributor cap back on.
Next, start your engine and bring to an idle. Look at the Dashboard of your Handheld Controller to determine the initial timing. With a timing light attached to the engine rotate the distributor until the engine timing reads the same as the timing displayed on the dashboard screen. Do this at 2000 RPM to eliminate the IDLE spark correction feature built into the GO EFI systems since this makes the synchronization at idle a bit difficult . Lock the distributor
firmly down and you are done. Final timing adjustments can now be made with the Handheld Controller on the fly!
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Thanks this helps out a lot. I am setting up a Fitech and this is all very useful info!!
Good tip on saving to dashboard. Guess I should read the instructions on my Go Street 400. I was just happy to get it running. Now that I know you do video production for a living I feel better about your videos being so superior to mine (and most others). Nice work as always Jon
+Keith Kowalski haha! Thanks man
Fitech uncomplicated and simple, for V8 the best I've seen so far.
oh man u saved me response is extreme!!
+jfboosted nice!
Very good explanation. First time I definitely understand timing and phasing 😉
Nice!!!
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco are you using the command center? Thanks
No command center. I used a frame mounted inline fuel pump
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco thanks
You should make a video on your bronco and the story on it.. that would be interesting!
John, you now about to get a PhD in FiTech. Enjoyed lesson 2 of the hundred you are about to have from FiTech University.
+Tom Sawyer haha! Seriously, sometimes I feel like you need a PhD to know how to fine tune it. Next week is another fitech video then I'm probably done with fitech videos for a while
Hey great videos. Excellent production work.
Few things I need to point out.
1. Most of the settings on the Fitech are live. This includes the base timing value. No need to do a key off when changing that value. However, a key off is good for when you have everything set and sync'd. As if the system were to reset, or lost power for some reason, then it wouldn't remember those values until you key off. A key off does a permanent save.
2. the vr4000 (vr delay) works like you said, only the other way for value adjustments. If you are using the default vr4000 value (17.6), and see your actual timing is lower than the fitech target timing, then you would increase the vr4000 value. But this is rare, as it maxes out at 19.6. Typically the actual timing is actually higher than reported timing, and therefore you would lower the vr4000 value to match. Example: if fitech handheld reports 39* of timing, and timing light shows 44* of timing. then lower vr4000 by 5*, so 12.6.
Regardless, great work on the videos.
+Nabors75 thank you! I’ve watched your videos and have learned so much! Thank you for commenting! EVERYBODY WATCH NABORS75 Fitech videos!
Appreciated. These videos of yours popped up on my recommended and I'm glad they did. Especially enjoyed the timing and phasing part. Much easier to explain with video than the many times I've typed it out on our Fitech Owners Page. LOL.
+Nabors75 haha! I bet!
For whatever reason, I cant post questions without piggy backing a comment. But given YOUR comment, you can help me as well. Do you need a spark box like an MSD to run the locked out distributor? And have you seen a video here that shows what to do? Thanks in advance! =)
+Anthony Wayne the fitech will control the timing with a locked out distributor. So you don’t need the spark box. This is how I’m running my system and it runs great. I don’t think I walk through exactly how to wire it, but it’s clear in the fitech instructions how to wire it up that way.
When looking at front engine (driver side/right hand) The blue magnetic pick-up is on the reluctor paddle near the 9 o’clock position. When I move the housing clockwise to align with the paddle in the number 1 plug position it obviously moves the cap, which means that I would have to move the plug wires. Can this be? What am I doing wrong? Thanks for your help.
So if i dont have a phased rotor do i still set the distributor at negative 10? Ive always set it in at 0 and advanced it to 10. But with the fitech it seems to be off
need to sell these videos to fitech it clears up alot of confusion!
Haha! I wish I could
would you turn the phaseable rotor clockwise if your firing order was clockwise like my mopar
Yes
love the videos man! Just curious about the timing procedure. I feel like the manual tells you to set the timing by matching the distributor to the controller mechanically as you were doing before you got your call. Did your contact tell you to do it this way in order to avoid having to re phase the distributor rotor or am I missing something? Thanks again
It’s just for the VR setting, not the timing setting. The timing setting is matching the distributor to the controller. I’m not sure why the VR setting is different
Nashville Early Bronco got it! Thanks!
Omg that might as well have been in Sanskrit. Luckily I'm still in the Bronze Age on my build. My head hurts. But your tech skilz are impressive.
how can I connect the trigger signal on a motor without a distributor that has a CKP sensor
John, are you using linseed oil on the bronco? That finish (especially on the inside) looks REALLY good.
Nice job on the videos! Always intertaining to watch. Thanks for taking the time. David
+David Elkington thanks for taking the time to watch 👍🏼
What spark plug wires are you using?
Did your distributor come with a phaseable rotor? I have the same one and it didn't @nashvilleearlybronco
I had a fixed rotor part 8423 in my billet 8598 what was the part number for the adjustable rotor you used ?
Troy mackeod should be msd 84211
Jason Neuman funny enough it wasn’t idkn if the cap was replaced and a different size but I ended up using the 8421 it won’t adjust as much but whatever lesson learned I guess .. wanna buy a rotor new lol
There is a setting in the Pro tuning screen that is for the distributor state, whether is locked or unlocked, did you move yours to locked?
I tried to lock it and vehicle started running rough like if it was running on 6 cylinders instead of 8.
+Adal Madera oh crazy. I never messed with that. I’ll have to look. Update on what you find out
Nashville Early Bronco i called fitech and they said to not worry about the locked timing number and to leave it unlocked on the screen.
+Adal Madera ah! Good to know
how do you get timing control on your screen bro I looked for it maybe cause I have the 400.??
Yeah the 400 does not having timing control
Good vidéo and good explications but you didn't phased your rotor!!
/I just dont understand the timing sinc/ phased rotor? I sinced at 2K rpm, do I need to check how the rotor is phased
Is FiTech controlling the timing on your set up?
Well that's all as clear as mud.
How did you accurately determine the position of TDC?
Also, I couldn't help thinking that the rotor phasing was off. Turning the distributor in this instance seems to be the beginning of a diabolical series of complex interactions within the menu that are all based around compensating for mal adjusted and installed ignition + incorrectly positioned timing tape and pointer that have caused a stack up of tolerances.
I can see it all now, never being able to get it to run sweet, clear menu to default, next change this then change that, what if we do this now, and on and on and on it goes - yep still not working exactly how I want, default, begin again (see below):
There wan an old man named Michael Finnigan,
he grew whiskers on his chinigin,
Along came the wind and blew them inigin,
Poor 'ole Michael Finnigan
- Beginagin!
There wan an old man named Michael Finnigan,
he grew whiskers on his chinigin,
Along came the wind and blew them inigin,
Poor 'ole Michael Finnigan
- Beginagin!
There wan an old man named Michael Finnigan,
he grew whiskers on his chinigin,
Along came the wind and blew them inigin,
Poor 'ole Michael Finnigan
- Beginagin!
etc, etc, etc
Look you may think I'm being a smart ass and maybe you're right and I'm wrong and all that but give me this, I've taken the time to write this to you.
I have the Fitech dual quad power adder system - yet to be installed I might add so I'm the virgin here rather than you, but I'm also a qualified mechanic and I'm visting these pages to gain info on how to use and set up the ignition control of the system.
The thing is, I have a Mallory locked out distributor so the phasing isn't likely to be an issue however I see you creating potential issues for yourself here. We mechanics, (some of us anyhow) like clear, simple steps without added complexity. Much of our work is undoing the mistakes of other mechanics, unfortunately, and getting things back to basics first so I tend to notice these things.
My alarm bells are ringing when I saw you altering this rotor phasing then compensating for this discrepancy between timing light, Fitech and timing pointer.
Recently, I fitted a new pointer to my motor and an aftermarket balancer. I determined the position of TDC with a dial indicator when the heads were off then adjusted the pointer to 0 degrees on the balancer. It can be done with heads on BTW.
I fitted a new locked out (and therefore pre phased) dizzy.
It is unlikely I'm going to get any issues relating to distributor phasing or incorrect timing.
Simple, logical, basic steps first. Complex adjustments second.
Absolutely, I hear you. Thanks for taking the time to write your comment. Timing was super confusing to me when I was reading the FiTech instructions. A couple things:
1. I'm trying to bring more clarity to FiTech's instructions. I agree, most mechanics probably have a better way of doing all this. But for the guy who is installing this in his garage and is trying to follow FiTech's instructions, I hope this video helps. But, I welcome any other advice in this process.
2. The video before this I show how I determined the position of TDC czcams.com/video/4-3Hz3LRhUE/video.html
3. Once you install your FiTech, let me know what steps you went through to get the timing right and what you learned. That's what this is all about, sharing what we learn to make it easier for the next guy.
Sorry for being an A-hole a few months ago. I now have the system installed and I'm seeking your help. I feel bad. We'll call it Karma.
As a thanks for your kind assistance I'll subscribe.
Done!
No worries man
How’s the bronco fuel injection been since this video
I swapped the FiTech for the Edlebrock ProFlo 4 and have loved it
Does FiTech hook up to MSD 6AL?
I believe so, but it doesn't need to. Fitech 600HP will control the timing just like the 6AL.
Dont quite understand why you took the rotor off to align the reluctor wheel and the mag. Pickup in The beginning ... you moved the base of the distributor later in the video which moves the correlation of the pickup and wheel
Just to show what you are lining up when you move adjust the distributor. Nothing special, I just wanted to show what you are actually trying to line up
I'm good with. My carb thanks
Good Video. Between this video and this one I found czcams.com/video/owUHU1tPw68/video.html
It all makes sense now. So, from what I understand. Set the idle timing, next set max timing. Once that is done you make sure the handheld and timing marks are matching, if not adjust distributor timing. Once this is set then you phase the rotor. Phasing the rotor allows you to fine tune the rotor so that the spark is maximized while arcing across to the spark plug wire.
Really random but it would be an awesome shirt to sell if you just put your channel icon on the pocket of a t shirt
+DIVERofLIFE that's a great idea 👍🏼 can I steal that?
Nashville Early Bronco yeah man, its your channel logo
I was doing pretty good until you got that phone call. I couldnt be more confused now.
I dont know...this seem like a lot of work
Definitely not as easy as they make it seem
Wow. That starter sounded ratty. None of my fords sound that bad. Yikes.
Yeah it needs to be replaced
What happens wen that becomes obsolete and these no tech to call you throw it in the trash and get your wallet back out