Thanks for the videos Stan, love the industrial stuff you share and the time lapse of everything going together. You may have seen the videos of Dan Gelbart on youtube, a very interesting guy especially for granite lovers, his shop made lathe is insane.
This is great I'm getting ready to do the same think to my little off shore bandsaw. I got the replacement motor from James Greene and trued up the pulleys and gears but the wheels are way out of whack.
Nice work, Stan! I think the reason that Tom is so good at "eye balling" is that he has his eye calibrated once a year. ... The bandsaws I worked on usually had a thin rubber tire on the wheel. You got better traction and didn't have the offset teeth of the blade dig into your wheel. Granted, these were large, vertical bandsaws with about an 18" throat. ... Thanks for the video! Waiting for the 2016 Bash announcement as I plan to come this year! Have a good one! Did you take the wife out for Valentine's Day? Dave
magnifica la restauracion de la sierra amigo,las maquinas tienen la ventaja de poder ser restauradas a cualquier edad,lo contrario que nosotros,pero bueno asi son las cosas y no las podemos cambiar,un cordial saludo y gracias por compartir esos momentos.
Did you notice improved performance with the boring head? The reason I ask is because last week you ground the R8 spindle to within .0002. Good idea to replace the simple bushing with commercial off the shelf bearings. That will make future maintenance much easier.
Great video Stan! Saw is better than it was when it left the factory. Wondering if you might have been able to grab the wheel with a 3 jaw on the 3 cut outs in the spokes?
Awesome videos I am just a hobbyist and learning a lot from all these types of video's. One question the light in the ball/socket tubes where did you get that? I want to get one for my mini lathe. Thank you for your time.
Wondering why not register the wheel by indicating on the surfaces where the blade rides. The current location of the bore (maybe it's worn; maybe it wasn't even right from the factory) is less important than the location of the machined surfaces (radial and plane) of the outer rim.
+Lasse Langwadt Christensen they do for wood, but i'm not sure about a metal bandsaw. i was gonna ask him the same question...if i had to guess i would say they're normally not crowned
+Lasse Langwadt Christensen Crowned wheels are must when utilizing a softer material as in leather or synthetic flat drive belts. Harder materials, such as metal saw blades demand synchronous "true" running wheels, rather than forming to a crowned wheel to gain running trueness. Wheel crown will cause lineal cracks in metal blades.
Sorry for barging in on your video, Stan! Nice conversion to use bearings; how has the saw been running since then? Do you notice any differences in the cut now? Best wishes, Tom Z
+Tom Jagiello I didnt cover my assembly liquids did I? Shaft into rocker = Loctite green (permanent) Bearings into hub = Loctite red (removable) Bearings onto shaft = Loctite blue (removable) I dont have the part #'s handy but can get them for you if you like, shoot me an email if needed.
+Shadon HKW Ha! now it all makes sense, thanks Stan! I've looked through all the comments and no one said anything, so I though I must be mad and missing something here.
+Shadon HKW Red is permanent, green is wickable, both blue and green are removable with hand wrenches (assuming threaded fasteners.) Thanks for the videos.
Let's see now, discovered a problem, determined a method of repair, went on a parts run, yacked it up with the guys at the parts house, acquired the necessary parts, used the mill in another interesting way, same for the lathe, achieved the necessary repair and saw a successful result that may last your lifetime, created a video to share with the worlds machining community and entertained and enlightened many friends new and old. Not a bad way to spend a day. Mike (o\!/o)
Bearings are sized metric. Accident or very special order if matches imperial. Flip the indicator face up and slid point to near rt angle and can view all sides without cocking ones head and moving around,cosine error doesn't matter for locating center. Refurbish at its best.
You saved it Stan! Runs nice. Looks like the new bearings should make it last a few decades!
Way to go Stan , I like that "If it's stupid & it works then it's not stupid "!! Thumbs up man ..
Hi Stan,
Nice repair and upgrade for your bandsaw. Thanks for sharing.
Take Care,
Reid
Sweet vid Stan! With 3 bandsaws here, this is great info to have tucked away in the grey matter. :)
Thanks!
Mike
Thanks for the videos Stan, love the industrial stuff you share and the time lapse of everything going together.
You may have seen the videos of Dan Gelbart on youtube, a very interesting guy especially for granite lovers, his shop made lathe is insane.
NICE, I have a cheapy bandsaw that needs that treatment, good details on the build
Looks good Stan!
Nice job Stan - ball races - way to go. :)
Great video, very nice repair. I bet that runs several times longer than the original.
This is great I'm getting ready to do the same think to my little off shore bandsaw. I got the replacement motor from James Greene and trued up the pulleys and gears but the wheels are way out of whack.
Nice Job Stan.
I really liked the lathe dog set up, I have the same lathe as yours, and no dogs for work between centers... its not stupid its crafty!
Good idear to use bearings...nice video, thank you
Thanks for the vid. Stan.
Nice work
stan nice repair.
Nice work, Stan! I think the reason that Tom is so good at "eye balling" is that he has his eye calibrated once a year. ... The bandsaws I worked on usually had a thin rubber tire on the wheel. You got better traction and didn't have the offset teeth of the blade dig into your wheel. Granted, these were large, vertical bandsaws with about an 18" throat. ... Thanks for the video! Waiting for the 2016 Bash announcement as I plan to come this year!
Have a good one! Did you take the wife out for Valentine's Day?
Dave
Good job, nice repair. Better than original.
magnifica la restauracion de la sierra amigo,las maquinas tienen la ventaja de poder ser restauradas a cualquier edad,lo contrario que nosotros,pero bueno asi son las cosas y no las podemos cambiar,un cordial saludo y gracias por compartir esos momentos.
Did you notice improved performance with the boring head? The reason I ask is because last week you ground the R8 spindle to within .0002. Good idea to replace the simple bushing with commercial off the shelf bearings. That will make future maintenance much easier.
+Roger Kimball Didnt notice any change in performance, but I know I was making a round hole!
+Shadon HKW The spindle taper could be way out of wack and a boring head would still make a round hole.
Good show
Great video Stan! Saw is better than it was when it left the factory. Wondering if you might have been able to grab the wheel with a 3 jaw on the 3 cut outs in the spokes?
clever fix
Awesome videos I am just a hobbyist and learning a lot from all these types of video's. One question the light in the ball/socket tubes where did you get that? I want to get one for my mini lathe. Thank you for your time.
+Lorddarthvader1701 I made that from some loc-line.
That's the first metal cutting band-saw I've seen that had a bronze plain bearing in it.....seems it should have constant oil supply?
Wondering why not register the wheel by indicating on the surfaces where the blade rides. The current location of the bore (maybe it's worn; maybe it wasn't even right from the factory) is less important than the location of the machined surfaces (radial and plane) of the outer rim.
+Peter W. Meek I tossed that idea around too, the OD was pretty rough, not to mention egg shaped, I think I would have got inaccuracies either way.
What kind of mandrel are you using?
don't those wheels normally have a slight crown on them to help the blade tracking?
+Lasse Langwadt Christensen If there was a crown on the wheel, it was long gone when it got to me.
+Lasse Langwadt Christensen they do for wood, but i'm not sure about a metal bandsaw. i was gonna ask him the same question...if i had to guess i would say they're normally not crowned
+Lasse Langwadt Christensen Crowned wheels are must when utilizing a softer material as in leather or synthetic flat drive belts. Harder materials, such as metal saw blades demand synchronous "true" running wheels, rather than forming to a crowned wheel to gain running trueness. Wheel crown will cause lineal cracks in metal blades.
comparatively speaking, what is the sound difference between the original bushing & un-trued wheel and the new ball bearing & trued wheel?
+Coffieman5150 Its an open gear driven saw, cant really hear any difference, but at least the blade says on now :)
Sorry for barging in on your video, Stan! Nice conversion to use bearings; how has the saw been running since then? Do you notice any differences in the cut now?
Best wishes,
Tom Z
+Tom Zelickman (Inspiration Metalworks) Still cuts the same, a little smoother .. oh .. and the blade stays on!
+Shadon HKW It's the little things like keeping the blade on that count, I suppose. ;)
Nice video! If a guy isn't learning something watching these, he's not alive!
Got me thinking. How true is the drive wheel?
did you true up the shoulder as well as the OD ? did not see that in the video.
yes indeed :)
nice
This might sound silly but what's stopping the shaft simply rotating within the inner bearing ring if the resistance on the wheel goes up?
+Tom Jagiello I didnt cover my assembly liquids did I? Shaft into rocker = Loctite green (permanent) Bearings into hub = Loctite red (removable) Bearings onto shaft = Loctite blue (removable) I dont have the part #'s handy but can get them for you if you like, shoot me an email if needed.
+Shadon HKW Ha! now it all makes sense, thanks Stan! I've looked through all the comments and no one said anything, so I though I must be mad and missing something here.
+Shadon HKW Red is permanent, green is wickable, both blue and green are removable with hand wrenches (assuming threaded fasteners.) Thanks for the videos.
That bandsaw will last forever now with bearings on it.
bearings are made in Turkey. kinda made me proud :)
did same thing on old craftsman albeit not as thoroughly. +10 so mod on the list.
Let's see now,
discovered a problem,
determined a method of repair,
went on a parts run,
yacked it up with the guys at the parts house,
acquired the necessary parts,
used the mill in another interesting way,
same for the lathe,
achieved the necessary repair and saw a successful result that may last your lifetime,
created a video to share with the worlds machining community and entertained and enlightened many friends new and old.
Not a bad way to spend a day.
Mike (o\!/o)
Bearings are sized metric. Accident or very special order if matches imperial.
Flip the indicator face up and slid point to near rt angle and can view all sides without cocking ones head and moving around,cosine error doesn't matter for locating center.
Refurbish at its best.
O would have thought that with the side load, roller bearings would have been better
Looks like a good repair. However, I worked in a shop that had a saw just like that and it was a giant POS.
......no rubber on those wheels.........never seen that before in a vertical saw,....
+Rick L Hey Rick, it's a horizontal, just had the head tipped up to work on it :)
Stan, I regularly watch and thumbs up your vids which I thoroughly enjoy, but please.....get a handkerchief or tissues, that sniffing drives me nuts.
I'll be the security-nazi and point out that showing your keys on the internet is a really bad idea.
I had no idea, thanks for the tip.