How To Fix A Wobbly Toilet | Permanent Solution
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- čas přidán 3. 11. 2022
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A common problem most homeowners eventually face is a wobbly toilet. Before that annoying issue turns into water damage and a bigger problem let me show you how to easily fix this issue permanently with a few common products.
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Couple of quick tips: after applying, spray the silicone and the areas where you don't want it to stick with Windex (not water). Spray your finger with Windex and then smooth out the caulk. Works with other sealants too. For tight spots, don't buy caulk in a gun tube. Get the one that looks like a large tube of toothpaste.
I do the same. I also run a narrow bead as far into the seam as I can, then come back with a heavier finish bead that I smooth out. Those smaller caulk tubes are far easier to finesse into tight spaces.
Excellent tips for the job and the finishing touches. Thanks Scott!!!!
How does this dude know everytime I need one of these videos!!! Kick Ass work. I've already sent this channel to friends and family because I know so many people that over estimate the cost of a job and try to handle it themselves. That's when I get the call asking about youtube videos on how to do these types of repairs. Now I just send all the questions to this channel! Keep it up!
I'm a contractor we do everything and in my opinion I personally do not caulk around a toilet just asking for trouble. But in that situation he doesn't really have a lot too work with so letting the back open was smart like i said this is My opinion. Thanks for the video.
If you installed a wax ring and you shim after you could break the wax seal adhesion to the toilet or flange either with the wobbling toilet or by inserting a shim thereby lifting one side of the toilet. Compression is ok but lifting up is not. Level and shim the toilet first with a dry fit without the wax seal. Then reinstall the toilet with the wax ring onto the shims you already placed.
Great video. For this comment abive is why I made the switch from wax to rubber rings for just this reason. Unlike wax, the rubber/vinyl can accept movement without breaking the seal. Very forgiving!
This is not a permanent fix. Need to cut out flange and replace with new one.
It should be permanent, but if you want to avoid shimming rather than the flange being the problem you need to level the floor.
@@MrStevebl19877 If you watched his previous video, you can see that he already addressed the closet flange.
@@lym3204 This happened to me. Shimmed after using the wax and it leaked due to rocking it to level it. Wax compressed too much. I used the Danco Perfect Seal he used the second time and that was perfect. It let me shim after setting the toilet and it maintained the seal.
Thanks for the video. It was straight to the point and helped me a lot. I also appreciate the tip for the air tight caulking container.
Awesome video, I have a similar situation & I will give this a try.
I love the AirTite screw-together tube saver. Now that I know they exist, I'll use your store to get some when I need them. Thanks, Scott!
Put a large wire nut over the end of the caulk tube nozzle. cheaper and it works good. However, the Airtite looks like a good product.
@@michaele1201 I used to always plug the hole with something or wrap it and seal it with a rubber band to keep the inside contents fresh, but I like the idea of the AirTite tubes.
Really helpful practical advice! Thanks!
Great ideas! Thank you. I always learn something from your videos.
Thanks Steve 👍
I was resetting a wobbly toilet today and no matter what I did, it stayed wobbly. Now I know about shims and my toilet no longer wobbles. Thank you!
You say those bottles are sold out but I just bought 2 from your link. Thanks, I legit have never seen those before!!!!
Fantastic. Well done
Thank you! Great video
Thanks for the tip about the soft wedges, they work great 👍 . I could not find them in any of my local hardware stores so I bought the wobble wedges from Amazon. Wish I would have noticed your link to them.
Great video. Thanks!
Great video Thanks
We love your show and thank you very much!!!
You bet!
Tip: I put a large wire nut over the end of the caulk tube nozzle for storage, I like the airtight canister tho.
Lot of good tips!
Thank You brother, awesome
Love the sealed container for the silicone. I hate wasting money. Gonna find some of them now.
what is the silver wire looking thing under the toilet? Love the video, nice fix!
Thanks for the video bud.
Very nice. Just one problem. My rocking is from front to back, so I need somewhere to put my level for that. But, that being said, this video was head-and-shoulders above the rest that I've seen.
Top of the tank, or on top of the (closed) seat?
Love the shims and the sealing bottles. Don't need either but will purchase just in case. Another home run Scott. Thanks!
Thanks Kersi 👍
I Love your videos
Thank you!
You bet!
plumbers told me decades ago never seal around the base of a toilet, simply if the wax seal fails, water will rot the floor and structure long before you even know you have a leak. As a handy man, for thirty years I haven't sealed a toilet base yet... and I still think its the best advice.
this is why i would never seal around the toilet....you will only find out later...after your subfloor is rotted...that you have a leaky toilet
sealing it like this is bad advice....do it right the first time
He doesn't have a clue whats he is doing.
It’s not just advice it’s fact. This guys floor is new and smooth there’s zero reason this toilet should not be sitting on the floor. It’s a flange problem that needs to be fixed and it’s really not difficult.
@@smash72cutlass30It can be very difficult to replace a flange. My upstairs flange is broken. It’s glued over a 3” pvc pipe which extends about 18” down. No way to cut and chisel the flange out. It’s upstairs so no way to get to the pipe without tearing something up. The flange sits 1/2” above the floor so it should be OK with a standard wax ring. But I have no choice but to use repair spanner on flange.
We have a concrete slab, how much of my subfloor is gonna rot? 🤣🤣
Any suggestion on how and where I can ask for tips on how to fix something? I've got a few things that I need to do in bathroom and I'm not even sure how to formulate google query. The easiest for me would be sending a photo and pointing out what needs fixing.
This came at a perfect time! I just started remodeling my bathroom. Thanks for the helpful video.
You bet 👍 best of luck on your project.
Great great video, much appreciated! FYI, as of November 5th, the Airtight caulk cannisters are in stock. Just got a couple for myself. :)
Was the correct wax gasket used. I used to have that same problem until I replaced it with the correct wax ring.
You need an 8$ set "caulking finishing tool" that are a various set of silicone pieces that let's you have a professional look at the end. Once you use them you'll realize that a finger is a very poor substitute. Lastly a finger is a very poor tool since it leaves a very fragile thin edge that tends to fray and peel and looks ugly. The ideal edge is a 45 degree joint at the joints.
Good video but I don't understand why you bother sealing the gap if you leave an opening at the back. Is it for ease of washing floor but risk that a tub leak finds the opening?
Hey, those tube canisters are nice and didn't know about them. My dad used to tease me and give me tiny condoms that cover caulk tips and they worked fairly well but this seems like a better investment
It seems like shimming after you install the wax seal could cause leak problems, perhaps down the road....
Use TILE CAULK if you want a really good seal and dont like how gross and dirty it can look down there. Use painter's tape and put that on the floor so you can put down the silicone, spray it with soapy water and smooth it out. Pull the tape, it should look perfect!
One comment I would add is people that are not familiar with working with 100% silicone, only takes a minute use blue tape like 1/4” away and all around the toilet, that way when you finger it the push out goes on the tape and makes for a clean look when removed. One more pro tip wear throw away plastic gloves and mist the caulk with denatured alcohol before you finger it in.
Flange too high. I would have replaced that along with the new toilet. Looks like new floor, prob sits lower than the original.
What is the floor bolt attachment you used? Link?
I know how to shim
I realize that I shouldn’t insert the shims hard enough to move the bowl as it would effect the wax seal
Came looking for videos about the best way to cut the shim.
This is the best I’ve found so far by far
Ppl debating whether or not to caulk, split the different, caulk but leaves a few small openings so when the ring fails again you know it and it doesn’t rot the floor completely
And now that I said that, I just realized I focused so much on the plumbing, I didn’t really inspect the wood at all.
Don’t overlook that people
Can you do a video on those carpet screws and hardwood nails that fix squeaks.. they snap off and keep the floor stable.. I feel like that’s a really good thing.l
Those kits are pretty handy. When I purchase a home with that issue I will give it a go. Thanks for the feedback 👍
Alcohol in a spray bottle changed my silicone application life. Tooling silicone is so much harder than latex. Either spray on surfaces or on an alcohol soaked rag for wiping. I got this from youtube, maybe even you!
Thanks for the feedback 👍
Do you use 99% though? I found its only strength that works. I buy case of blue Shop Towels, gallon of 99% alcohol and pack a plastic can with screw lid with towels and then soak with alcohol. It's so perfect.
If you lift an existing toilet up you better remove it first and place new wax rings otherwise you'll break the "air seal" and things will smell. Use "wax only" rings (no plastic). Squish the bowl back down. Shim as if the toilet were a card table....put 4 legs on it, some being different lengths than the other to level it. (simple) If the floor is out of level you can cheat and tilt it a little (for looks only). If you tilt (in any direction) too much it can compromise the flush...especially with these 1.2 gallon flush restrictions.
In my.experience, silicone tubes go bad all by themselves even if completely sealed. The expiration date is real. The stuff loses its adhesion properties.
Thank you, I've done a few toilets but I'm always open to new techniques. I'm a fussy DIY guy. Here's what worked best for me. First fit the toilet perfectly in place with no gasket. Level the toilet, and tape down any shims so they wont move. Then add some blue tape to the floor and toilet and add a few reference marks for the exact position. Remove the toilet and add the wax gasket to the floor flange. Now set the toilet exactly in place using the reference points. Use your weight to flatten the toilet level and stable. Tighten the base fasteners (gently). Connect the water and test. Now tape tape the floor and the toilet base for caulking. Caulk using silicone for bathrooms. Smooth/tool the caulk. Pull take immediately. Spray caulk with Windex and smooth one more time to feather the tiny edge produced by the tape. It's done, with very little chance of failure and a high degree of perfection with minimal skills.
My recent install was the type of toilet with the base fasteners tucked in pockets which made them very difficult to see/align. We tipped the toilet up onto the forward edge, added the wax ring then tipped it back onto the floor using the marks as guides. It would have been much more difficult without the reference marks.
Hope this helps other DIY'ers
If your toilet isn't level, it's easier to fall off of it when you're drunk.
Don't ask me how I know.
😁
How do you know
Who's gonna know?
@@JMjayesim They're gonna know
Just use a long screw for the used tube. Make sure it will go in snuggly then when your ready to use your silicone or whatever again just unscrew it. Been doing this for years. Why buy something when you can use something you probably already have and it works great.
I just use electrical tape. Way better than a screw or any other contraption out there. Trust me
I replaced a toilet with a cheap Home Depot brand one which wobbled so I shimmed it like shown here (It works) A couple years I replaced it with a big name brand one and guess what; no wobble! So your problem could be a toilet with a bad base.
You have to point the Caulking nozzle INTO the gap, AND not parallel to the gap as shown here.
Did you get the horn of the toilet all the way into the flange and is the flange broken there's a couple different things that can be wrong To check out before you just go caulking The base And you should be using grout as ground supports the toilet caulking gives
As he jams in the shims is he loosening the toilet off the wax under the toilet allowing water and no telling what to leak when flushed?
How do I find a reputable handyman in my state ?
I like using silicon based calk that dries clear. The clear calk does not show dirt or turn off color with age. It also allows the the bottom edge of the porcelain to maintain its nice rounded edge appearance. The toilet that I have sealed with white calk can look good until they the calk ages or gets dirty.
If you need to shim a toilet all of the way around the base, it is because the closet flange is too high. Shimming and caulking is not the solution. You need to address the root problem. Replace and lower the closet flange.
I was hoping somebody would notice this - the flange is too high in the first place. The toilet should have first been set down on the flange to make sure the base had contact all around with the floor. If the flange is 1/4 inch about the floor or tiles, then a standard wax seal will be just fine. And if the tiles are not quite level all around, a little bit of shimming will resolve that issue.
Does anyone notice how the plumbing contractor or the framer screwed up? Your toilet isn't centered in the opening. Not a big deal unless you dont have 15" from the wall to the center of the toilet. 15" is code in most places but might not apply to where you live. I couldn't sleep at night knowing i roughed in the toilet off center. Good tips and keep up the good work. PS. Not hating on you, its just something i noticed
I’m glad you guys say something about different issues. That’s how I learn to DIY what I can, and what to look for if I hire someone to do a project.
Thank you for this video. I recently had a leak coming from under the toilet and we called a plumber. So after the plumber left, the toilet was wobbly and we called him back and he sent another guy. Well after he left THE WOBBLE WAS WORSE!! So now what? Do I call him AGAIN so I can get charged for absolutely nothing? Forget it - I assume the seal is good on the wax seal, (they said they put in a new one) and now I’m going to do exactly what you show here. But I have a question, I understand why it would wobble, but my toilet can also twist about 1” either way. Is that another issue? Or just a normal part of a wobble? Ugh so confused. Also, the white caps I had on the toilet that go over the nut & bolt, are now missing. I guess I have to do something about that myself too.
He (the first guy) also had to “cut” something under my toilet that was “cast iron”. He used an electric “thing” (drill saw thing? Then came out and asked if he could use my kitchen broom to clean up his mess, I gave him the broom, he said he was done and put the broom back by my fridge. I was shocked when I went into the bathroom and found a fine black iron dust covering everything is sight including the white walls , decorative towels and hand towels, my white sink and countertops, shower curtain, shower stall, and every shampoo bottle or back scrubber or razor and my hospital safety chair (white one mind you). I was so mad I could cry. He tracked that black stuff all through my house from bathroom to back door, thru my living room carpet. I went to use the broom the next day and it was FULL of that black stuff!! As well as all over the floor behind my refrigerator!! Ugh!! I wanted to scream! Plus, if anyone was barefoot and they went to use the bathroom they got that black stuff all over their feet, and also tracked it through the house on the carpet up and down the hall and threw the living room into the kitchen!! Because he never said “hey there’s gonna be some fine black dust this will create so I’m gonna put shoe covers on or you might want to put some towels down so I don’t get it on your carpet or you might want to mop after I sweep to make sure I got it all up because it’ll get everywhere and you might wanna wash down all your walls afterwards or you could just tape up a piece of plastic so it doesn’t get all over the shower and everything else that was in there brushes the chair the shampoo bottles I mean it was everywhere I had to throw my shower curtain away!!
Needless to say, I’m never calling them again. So now I’m trying to teach myself how to fix it.
Thanks for letting me rant! I still have a question though if the toilet twists from side to side about an inch either way is that a normal part of the wobble or is that a different issue?
@everydayHomeRepairs see above
Damn Scott, I think you stole our bathroom flooring!
Do u need to turn the water off?
Yes on the shims but instead of silicone, use grout to solve wobbly toilet issues. Clean up with a sponge. The grout will give the toilet a solid base to sit on. I could never leave a customer with a caulk line finished like that.
Also, if you are going to use caulk, use latex caulk and clean it up with a damp sponge. It will look infinitely better.
These shims do not work if the gap is narrow. Just broke my wax seal and have to replace it because I tried these shims.
or you could install the toilet flange flush with the floor.
I would think the time to level and verify the correct height would be when installing the toilet. When installed correctly, there shouldn't be a significant gap to the floor and the toilet shouldn't wobble or shift once fully seated to the seal or wax ring. Personally I prefer the rubber seals over the wax ring, but to each his own.
Shims ok putting seal on bottom of toilet is not code where I'm at and can get fined from code guy so need to see if its legal where you are , I never would or have done that before.
I think if you used a traditional wax ring it would sit flush to the floor
I was thinking the same thing, sometimes sticking with old school methods is best.
Nope. If you have an unlevel floor and you use a wax ring that enables the toilet to set completely flush with the floor all the way around, you will end up having an unlevel toilet, period. The only proper way to level a toilet on an unlevel floor are shims (or obviously level the floor).
I use door shims works great but if you're toilet needs that many shims you have a problem.
my toilet does not flush out 100 % , I have to flush 2 or 3 times to completely flush out of the toilet. what seems to be the problem please reply thank you very much.
the AirTite caulk tube saver is a great idea, but at $8.37 I'm better off just buying a new tube.
Silicone expires, i learned this the hard way. Never cured and hours to remove. Also smells bad, burns skin and hard to get off
You never caulk the base of a toilet because it can conceal leaks at the flange seal causing a rotted floor if not on a slab.
That's why he left a gap on the back. Explained @6:10
A gap is not enough
I'm a master plumber. You are 100% correct. NEVER CAULK A TOILET. FOR SEVERAL REASONS. BIG NO NO. @@JD-fo6gs
When smoothing the caulk against the toilet base, wipe the caulk with a clorox wipe. It works great.
Now please, no one steal my idea, make the chalking food grade. Now all you have to do is lick it off your finger after smoothing it.
huh, I've never had a tube of silicone or acrylic caulk go bad after only using a partial tube. Just need to remove the little dried plug at the end and your off to the races. I mean, I'm not talking years, but weeks, months, exc.
Was the toilet badely installed, floor looks straight, not supposed to be loose like that.
Such a smooth floor there’s no reason that toilet should sit so high. It’s a leak problem over time. Will always loosen as well.
why would you sealing?! how would you know if there is a leak
Hi there, I know you’ve seen how it will look in the future. A gross yellow brown looks that doesn’t clean out. Keep up the great post.
I have a toilet that was installed a few months ago that developed a slight wobble. Should I try this to help stabilize it?
No!! Never caulk a toilet base.
I wish I saw this before I installed all the toilets on a floor I was working on
He leveled it… and made a levitating toilet.. 🔮🔮🔮
If you seal your toilet like that and the wax seal/foam lets loose you will never know unless it's on the 2nd floor. Caulk on a floor will turn black/grey/brown/red/pink. Caulk is flexible and in and of itself will not hold the toilet firmly. Grout, if not contained on all sides will crack/crumble and finally fail. All of these are temporary fixes. Fix the flange if you want a sturdy toilet. To caulk anything with silicone, apply silicone to surface, spray with dishsoap water, a fine mist is all you need, take a silicone caulking tool or a popsicle stick and pull along caulk and wipe tool off with paper towel frequently. Let dry and scrape off any excess. You may not agree with me and that's fine. I've used my methods for 33 years and they work.
What if it's in disrespect for the other side .
To seal with silicon is a no no. Had to many floors cut and replace subfloor and that was not bad but on high rise building I end up to repair ceiling and sometime wall as well on the unit under the unit someone did silicon the base And never loose bolts to increase the gap. Just use hard shims after I had toilet tide down. Very bad advise
Using silicone sealer will make leak detection harder in the future. Shimming is good if wobbly.
Need a flange adjustment
I noticed this when you installed the toilet. I think the question should have been what's preventing the toilet from sitting flush with the floor? Did your adapter raise it too much or is it interfering with the base? Was your flange too high? I have never been a fan of caulking a toilet. Just saying.
Finally... someone who understands this concept...it's not the toilet....
@@Kevin-mp5of why is that so hard for some of these people to understand?
The only defective toilet I've seen was because of a crack in it out of the box....you correct the issue, not the result...
Clear silicone is the way to go. The white turns yellow
Your flange is not set properly you have to re pull the toilet and make sure that flange is at the proper hight all the way around. And before you put your johni-ring in set the toilet and make sure it's not going to rock. If it is sitting nice and flat that will determine what type of Johnny Ringo you use. Once you do that everything should sit nice flush to the floor and you could bolt it down and finish the toilet install
right
Ty my toilet wobbles every time i get up.
Search for Wobble Wedges® on the Internet.
The flange repair kits that i watched you install were too high and that is why you have that problem. Just my 2 cents after having installed thousands of toilets.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Those shims won't stay in place long. Once someone bounces around on the toilet they will eventually loosen and then you have a big mess.
If you had installed the flange at the proper height in the prior video the toilet would not sit above the floor level..
I want to know how to stop my toilet seat from wiggling around and becoming loose all the darn time. Lol tighten the plastic nuts and the darn thing is loose a couple days later… I’m to the point where maybe I’ll caulk the nuts on, is that a good solution?
It sounds like you might need to pull the toilet and inspect the closet flange. It may be worn and starting to deform. Also, replace the bolts and nuts holding the toilet to the flange when you do, they are cheep and may be contributing to the issue as well.
I once fixed a public toilet by sliding a dime under it.
Poor dime 💩
Any good plumber will tell you not to seal around the base of a toilet because if the wax ring fails and leaks you won't know and it will rot the sub floor. It left unsealed you will notice the water and catch the problem before it causes damage.
I agree and that was the reason behind leaving the big opening at the back 👍
That's why he left the backside open. He only caulked 3/4 around. Smart.
His titles arent click bait, you actually have to watch the videos!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs so what if the floor slopes in the opposite direction...then what?
Water always seeks the lowest point...the slightest incline in the opposite direction in the floor and you would never know until possibly more damage is done.
No good licensed plumber will say this because we know that caulk creates a solid base to the floor preventing and movement shifting. And not caulking a toilet will fail any inspection.
We set the toilet. Tighten down bolts. Turning water flush multiple times checking for leaks. Then caulk... not silicone. (Silicone is to flexible... and changes color)
The landlord special
That’s a No-No!