DO THIS TO YOUR PAINT! | Activating your RUSTOLEUM | 2K
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- čas přidán 30. 11. 2019
- ACTIVATE YOUR RUSTOLEUM!! I had a few commenters ask about using a primer coat, a few asked about getting by with a small compressor, others about using different guns. I aimed to cover a lot of that here, as well as demonstrating why activating your rustoleum gets you more bang for your buck.
1st rustoleum spray tips video: • EASY: Spray rustoleum ...
Japan drier video: • JAPAN DRIER -the secre...
Setting up an HVLP: • HVLP quick start guide...
Links: (Be sure to check local availability, it may be cheaper)
Mountain mixing cups (bulk 100) amzn.to/2R9oWXW
ABN mixing cups (12 pack) amzn.to/2qdnQPV
Devilbiss cone filters (bulk 100) amzn.to/2rMYFUF
Japan drier: amzn.to/2Rf7eTf
HARDENERS (all are compatible with rustoleum):
Valspar hardener: amzn.to/2LdvWzl
Krylon hardener: amzn.to/2Y3EUod
Finishpro hardener: amzn.to/33FfHRU
Majic hardener: amzn.to/37TKn5p
Reducer (or just stick to acetone): amzn.to/32GZb4d
Acetone safety bottles (prevents waste and are handy) : amzn.to/2JzqxEr
Filter mask: amzn.to/2FnGLLu
Filter cartridges: amzn.to/2JE9bGu
Disposable jacket (10pk): amzn.to/2Fnk36n
SPRAY GUN (I grabbed mine out of the local close-out bin for $8.99) www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...
If you have a local TSC be sure to browse their paint section!!
#basecoat #primer #rustoleum - Zábava
IF you were wondering about reducers, solvents or all those cans on the left this video scratches the surface: czcams.com/video/1Aq1xHZUNMg/video.html
If you were wondering why I used short strokes it was because of the angles, contours and openings.
If you want to see long strokes check out some of the other videos where I paint stuff.
If you have a tip that will improve my or the viewers' techniques PLEASE add it!!
I hope you can glean some useful tips, and as always: THANKS FOR WATCHING
and ALWAYS wear a mask
I will preface all of this by saying: I used this method, and my results are awesome. HOWEVER: I am a new hobby painter, but I was a painter of sorts in the navy. The paint we used in the navy was a moisture drying poly, but our primer was a 2k Isocyanate pack primer. Similar to the hardener used in this video. If you atomize and spray Isocyanate, you will absorb it into the body and develop a sensitivity to it. There is no way to reverse the sensitivity. Once you develop this, the paint is impossible to work with due to symptoms of even small exposure: rashes, irratibility, respitory failure. Outside of that, there are potential long term physical / psychological issues associated with over-exposure to Isocyanate. If you spray this on a consistent basis, you need to use a positive pressure paint suit. Standard negative pressure regulators with cartridge style filters are not sufficient, you need a dedicated oil-free air line. Your heath is more valuable than the paint job's gloss or hardness. Stay safe.
If you where in the navy chances are you used a zinc rich epoxy with zinc powder/ flakes followed by an intermediate epoxy with aluminum pigments and top coated with a single stage poly. It’s what we did in the coast guard.
The zinc is sacrificial for corrosion protection and the reason for aluminum pigments is aluminum does not rust.
I read this AFTER i painted with this Magik hardener. I used a 3m organic respirator, but did not cover my arms. The finish is amazing, and was dry and hard to the touch in just a few hours. However…. I got super sick, restless sleep all night, waking up ever 10 minutes and this went on for hours. The next morning raging headache. Fortunately my wife is an expert at detoxification (she has been helping people for 20 years) and she got me cleared up with sauna, coffee enemas, and colonic. I slept well last night, first night in 3 night, feeling much better but exhausted. Definitely taking more precautions next time, like full body tyvek suit.
Solvent pouring tip: if you pour while holding the can so the mouth of the can is at the top while you pour, you can control the flow much better and significantly reduce splatter and waste. It's a bit counter-intuitive, but very effective.
Same way oil quarts are supposed to be poured. Which is why they almost always have an angle towards the spout, so it never pours onto the container when the spout faces up.
Exactly. You want to have your opening on top when you pour. Automotive oil and antifreeze are the same way. That's the way they are meant to be poured.
I want to paint a toolbox with rust oleum and now I think I know how to mix it. Appreciate the videos from years ago. Still helping today
Tells it like it is, real-life, not perfect conditions and he gets it done. Love this guy!
Thanks Bill
You are a really good teacher. Good job explaining.
Love my pressure pots. Easy to build one from Harbor freight sprayers with independently adjustable air and fluid settings. I use the small detail gun they sell for $10. Great tips on the paint mix. Thanks!
So helpful. Thank you! Exactly the information I need.
NIce! I always enjoy your painting videos ... consider you my go to guy for painting expertise for the shop on our ranch. I've learned a lot. Many thanks!
Thanks! Ive got a few more in the works...
Oh cool! Learned more stuff about painting. Thanks!
That is one funky assed technique you use for spraying. Usually long strokes work best but the Rustoleum enamel is very forgiving.
Does it even matter what technique one uses if it works?
Define “works”. Paint spray technique matters plenty. That technique will make light spots and heavy spots with weird overlaps, waste paint, waste time. Lots of CZcams tutorials out there….
@@astang1072 eh.. I dig it. Works for him, and looks decent in the video. Consistency is cool.
I trained with a master painter with (no lie) 73 years in the game. His quip was “perfect.. to a man on a galloping horse.”
Turned out great but wear a mask and a good idea to hose down the ground, especially in that wind.👍
Why wear a mask? Seriously. The wind is so strong, there is no chance of inhalation.
You want him to wet the ground. Good idea. Let's paint in mud.
I was thinking about the dirt getting the paint.
What ever happened to long even strokes? Squirt, squirt, squirt.
This is no way to paint.
Nice work! Very good layout on the material, due to your trigger control and motion.
Great tutorial video, I learned a lot!
Great video, bro. I learned a couple things
Great, glad to hear it!
1. Your the man and thanks for all the tips. Perfect for low key DIY who doesn’t want to be super technical but still have good results!
2. What were your dry times in between coats?
3. How many coats of primer/top coat?
4. What size tips do you use for primer vs. top coat?
5. Do you have a go to urethane paint when trying to accomplish UV protection?
Good solid video. Lots of good advice here.
Impressive results !
I usually use quality automotive type paints like PPG products for serious items I paint. But I have used lots of Rust-oleum paint with catalyst hardener for so many projects and like the outcome very well. Thumbs Up!
rustoleum is not as durable as auto paint?
Excellent job, I have never heard of Japan drier. Thanks for the video. Semper Fi, USMC.
Japan Drier is a great tool for getting the paint to flash off. Its a type of activator. It can also be used in varnishes if you're into woodworking. Thanks for your service!
czcams.com/video/uJoCEvsamvI/video.html
We lightly spray the dirt with a hose to eliminate any dust. Works well.
Hi. I love your channel. Thanks for all the useful tips. I have a gunmetal Chrysler 300 that I am going to paint gloss black tomorrow with the same Rust-Oleum that you used on the truck bumper. I'm super new to painting with a sprayer but I've been practicing and feel pretty good about it. I have an hvlp gravity spray gun. What should I add to the paint to make the most of this project? Primer too? In what ratios?
thanks for your input...will do!
I'm glad your video popped up in my feed. I've heard many of the basics covered, but I can't think of any that were so well integrated.
In other words, I really appreciate you taking the time to cover so much verbally, in text popups, and videoing the techniques involved. I get that the main purpose was to show off the catalyst, Japan hardener, acetone, and when / how to use them with that particular pressure pot. Taking the time to cover the other stuff included is very much appreciated. Keep up the good work on your videos!
Nice job. Good info and presented well. Thanks.
Thanks for watching, I hope it helps out!
Very informative, Thanks for the video
Glad it was helpful
Great video. I have a couple questions. Why prime it before painting vs doing it like your other videos and just painting? Also why did you use a Pressure Pot vs HVLP. Thanks
It came out great! Thanks for sharing the way to mix with harder and dryer. I knew about the the harder but haven't ever hard about the dryer. 🤔
Great, glad you got something out of it
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 Yeah thanks I appreciate your video. Some of these youtube critics should make their own video so you can trash them too.
Worked like a charm. Haven't sprayed in years but this will be my go to from now on. Took some time and waste tuning the Spray equipment. So Yes it does work in California as well!!! :)
Great to hear!
Looks very good for my old school truck.
nice job!!
Awesome stuff man thanks ! So I live in Phoenix Arizona where in the summer it can hit 120f outside and currently around 95f. I want to redo my tahoe and got the harbor freight two gun kit which is supposedly better quality than the single purple hvlp gun people usually get. My question is with my temps and basically nothing non existent humidity, what ratios would you mix for the gloss black quart cans of rust-oleum? Would you still use catalyst or japan dryer?
Don’t forget to wear a mask!
Good video thanks. I painted with rustoleum and. Acetone and mineral spirits. But acetone seems to be a better choice to dry that paint faster. I would have a lot of runs with mineral spirits and 1:1 ratio.
Isocyanites are no joke! Acetone is always my choice too!
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 That's was the label on the can specifies for thinning, acetone. It doesn't say mineral spirits or lacquer thinner, but acetone only for thinning.
Great video! If I use the primer as a top coat I should use hardener?
Coooool!
Subbed
When pouring from a rectangle can, lay can on (face) side with spout up and pour. This technique prevents "burping"
What if you just have Rustoleum, acetone, and Japan Drier for your HPLV spray gun? What is the ratio without the catalyst?
A whole bunch of years ago my uncle gave me an old Chevy van and I two toned it with Rustoleum blue and white. I reduced it with mineral spirits, it took forever to dry. It did fade to look like and old original faded paintjob.
How long did it take to dry ? I did the same , how could I speed up the dry time
@@bryanpacas4619 use acetone or lacquer thinner
Is it possible to spray the Rust-Oleum rusty metal primer through a gravity feed gun?
👍👍👍nice. Thank you for the information
No problem 👍
OMG! I'm watching paint dry. Man, I really need a life.
Omg. I'm reading comments. What's wrong with me.
$$
How long do you recommend waiting before washing/waxing after painting like this?
I’ve done the same using tractor and implement paint minus the drier. It’s basically the same type of paint the precise formula might be different but it’s a modified alkyd but the primer for JD is a buff instead of a red oxide.
Thank you Sir for the video... very informative... my tasks is...priming a 20' sea container, in the woods... using generator power for my equipment... all I have at my disposal is a 6gal pancake compressor with the pressure pot sprayer, and a Graco Magnum stand airless paint sprayer (the type that sucks up product from a container) which application method do you suggest to use, and I assume ill need to volume mix my primer to do the entire container in under 7 min? Your input and expertise is greatly appreciated so I can plan this task flawlessly.
There is no way the pancake compressor will keep up. I would use the airless and maybe get a 30" wand extension for it too.
Xyolene works better than acetone, flashes quicker, then you could skip using the Japan drier. One tip I learned along time ago when painting, drape that air hose across your shoulders and behind your neck, and hold onto the hose with your non spraying hand. That way you don't drag your hose over your substraight.
IRQVET Tool & Farm sorry friend but you are wrong. Xylene is oily feeling like mineral spirits. Acetone is water thin and flashes the quickest. The japan drier is not to speed solvent flash , instead it speeds the curing of the paint film . Google the evap. times and you will see acetone flashes off at 19 x quicker than xylene.
SOLVENT CRASH COURSE: czcams.com/video/1Aq1xHZUNMg/video.html
Seems like a lot of those solvents are getting harder and harder to find and the ones you can get are some low voc variant that aren't worth a damn. I did come across a product recently made by Goof Off called pro strength remover they sell it at lowes in both pint and half gallon sizes and its a mixture of xylene and acetone but its some good stuff and really potent and it flashes off really quick I've been using it as a reducer for some oil based paints.
What it the difference with the gray and brown primer. You mentioned oxides are in the brown , is that good or bad ?
Thanks for the video. If I'm using Rust-Oleum to paint a motorcycle tank satin black, am I able to use polyurethane as a satin clear coat. Unfortunately I'm not able to find satin clear coat enamel.
cool truck in the background!
thanks!
The final product looks great! How did you prime and paint the parts of the bumper that were touching the stand to hold it up? Did you prime all the exposed areas then flip it over to access the areas touching the stand? Or did you just leave a few spots unprimed and unpainted?
There was minimal obstructed area. It was where the bumper mounts to the truck frame anyways. I just hit it with a little rattle can black once it was detached. Thanks Jon.
How come you're recommending Valspar hardner which says acrylic on it for Rust-Oleum which is oil based. Will it still work?
I have read Rustoleum does not recommend their rusty metal primer on clean bare metal. I have a 62 bug that is bare metal with some minor rust, but overall the car is rust free. Can I use the rusty metal primer and topcoat with Rustoleum enamel without issues? Is this the primer that you used in this video?
You know something is amiss in the hardener world when Valspar is now discontinued and all other hardener products listed are "currently unavailable", even in other countries.
Each coat of primer you spray paint on, you will need to sand the first coat slightly down so each coat applied adhears to each other for a much better, much stronger bond. This also applies to the final coat when you paint on your final coat of paint. And if your going the route of base coat clear coat, you will also have to sand the paint to a dull surface, tack rag it and then spray on the clear coat on the painted surface and let it to, bond to the paint, bringing out the shine much further and ready to wax it afterward. For me, I would allow the clear coat to dry and cure few days before waxing, however, base coat clear coat after the clear coat is sprayed on, can be waxed 3 or 4 hours later without any problems.
Just painted my Jeep with Rustoleum/Acetone/hardener/japan drier.. how long should I wait before I drive it?
How slow would it dry if you only used acetone and no japan dryer?
What primer did you use? Thanks!
Nice finish in the wind brother! Do you know it the catylist makes the paint fuel resistant or good for long lasting paint job? I just don't want a gas spill or drop to ruin the paint. I want to paint my dually with that paint. Thanks a lot. Stay healthy.
Fuel will most likely discolor it. The hardener may buy you a little time to wipe the fuel off but it wont make it fuel resistant. Just like I stated at the end: anytime I paint a car I just make the jump up to an acrylic urethane. It will be more UV and fuel resistant. If you insist on rustoleum then the best advise I have is to do a test panel and spill fuel on it. I reserve for rustoleum for utility-type projects
Hi. Hey have you ever used water base paint? Paint designed for metal. If so what are your thing recommendations. I use a lot of sherwin William's industrial water base, primer sealer and paint colors. Thanks.
I only ever use water based stuff on my house, I prefer the solvent-borne/chemically-based stuff for my metal. 😃
Excellent job...Newbie as of today to your channel. Earlier I watched video for DIY Heavy Duty sheet metal brake and it was great. Upon looking to see what other projects you took on, I came across this one that really got my attention and loved the products and the way you used them. I am renovating a 1979 Airstream from the axles up. I had planned on using POR-15 on the frame once the sandblasting and welding is complete. I feel this process you used will be quicker, less expensive and with urethane enamel, acetone and Japan dryer, I could achieve long lasting results. Thank you for any advice or suggestion.
Hey Mel. I hate to say it but Im a huge fan of POR15 and while I believe rustoleum is also a great product it doesnt offer what POR15 will as far as looong lasting durability. If you do choose a urethane enamel you will benefit from increased UV protection over what alkyd enamels offer. I am a firm believer in POR15. Thanks for looking around the channel. Good luck with the restoration!
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 Thanks
i glad u though of ur health and wore gloves cheers graham.
Great vid! After adding acetone and catalyst, how long can the leftover paint be stored for in an airtight container? Is the mixture still viable? 🤔
U can't store it after u put hardener it will harden up
A makeshift windbreak maybe. (and the mask) Liked the result.
Nice video. One suggestion, make mention of conditions while you were painting - temp, humidity, and spraying in direct sun in addition to comments about the wind. Gives the viewer a complete picture if the job.
Also, others said it, I will too...buy yourself a proper respirator and use it. You can thank us all later, like when you can still walk a few hundred feet without gasping for air from COPD or some other pulmonary failure. I’m 66, and regret the times I DIDN’T were proper safety gear more than I regret the times I protected myself.
I was speaking to some guys who do truck frames...They recommended using a wet look hardner with it....super hard and with the japan drier it really shines and holds against the UV light damage..Thought you might like.what they told.me
Couldn't see the label on the can of black...was it Rustolium? Thanks for the great tips. Have used the japan drier and hardener with rustolium painting outside before, but paint would stay soft and take weeks to really dry. I didn't know about using acetone...I will give it a try. Thanks
Yeh this was rustoleum but this mix ratio works on any alkyd enamel
Painting in the dirt without a mask. Very professional.
It turned out that good in the dirt, just imagine if I had a spray booth....
Check out any of my other spray videos to see a carbon charcoal mask.
BTW, Thanks for watching
12:00 i would've faced the project piece facing the sun at this point... appreciate your work! :] ]
Yeh, great observation. That would've been helpful as far as the shadows. I originally started with the end of the bumper facing directly into the wind (thinking Id expose the smallest profile to the incoming dust) but it was blowing in from everywhere and the benefits were negligible. I like your suggestion better. Thanks for watching!
I've sprayed a lot of rustoleum with ok success. I like using it because it's cheap and gives me practice with the paint gun. Couple things I've noticed for me is I don't seem to get it mixed right for an hvlp, usually it's to thick and comes out all blotchy. If I thin it out a little more then it has a tendency to run. The biggest complaint I have with the paint is it has no uv protection and fades really fast. The other issue I have is it never seems to harden for me. Your paint mixing video might clear up the mixing issues but what can I do to make it hold up especially here in the Florida sunshine? Thanks for any advice you might have.
The activator will help a little with durability. As far as holding up to UV I think a urethane paint is your best bet. Alkyd enamels are slightly more prone to runs than a urethane. Jumping up to a decent quality urethane may solve several of your issues. Thanks for the comment Dan!!
Where did you buy that pressure pot gun? I can't seem to find anything like it, or maybe I'm just searching for the wrong thing. Perhaps you can put a link in the description.
Tractor supply closeout bin, $8.99. They still carry the exact gun, Ill add a link in the description also.
www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/campbell-hausfeld-pressure-feed-spray-gun
What hardener do you use with the top coat ? You have Valspar and other listed. I had a rust roof on a car, knocked off the scale, and quickly painted it with just rustoleum paint, I think I skipped the rusty metal primer, and it STUCK on there great, was still sticking on 2+ years later. I like the idea of a adding a hardener.
I sometimes use Majic brand from TSC. Ive used all the ones in the description also. The hardener will help with the UV resistance which is important on a car roof. Thanks Dan!
I'm doing a project like this but my end result will be ford blue, can anyone here recommend if I should go straight to blue after this or should I gray or white primer first to keep the blue the right color?
Does the black color coat “burn” into the fresh primer coat for excellent adhesion? I worked in a body shop years ago in college and we always let the primer cure then sanded then the final coat. Granted this was car primer and paint. Bumper turned very nice, good job.
I would imagine it to be the same concept as wet on wet for for base/clear that we were taught. It has to be done in the sweet spot otherwise too wet or require scuffing.
It’s a different method we have called it the wet on wet method.
If you’re looking for a build in your primer wait for a cure and sand then paint.
Flat black Rustoleum & acetone (50/50 mix) makes a great rat rod paint... Nice job, considering the windy conditions!!
Have you ever used blitz black? Its made by valspar for john deere. Great stuff but its tricky getting it here in CA.
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 I can get that at our local John Deere. I'm in Northern California.
Dang, thats crazy. I mail order it. Im in the central valley and I havent been able to get it any other way.
UnitedStatesofBuild I’m in Yuba City. I just stopped in last week and picked up a rattle can. They had quarts on the shelf.
Valley Truck and Tractor if you’re ever up this way.
What spray tip did you use?
4:04 the love of a woman... you are a blessed man. Or..... man why can't I get any project done without interruptions! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills.
Great video. My very good friend, who turned 80 recently, says he wishes he had been more diligent in wearing face masks.
Yeh, I concur. Its easy to get caught up in the task at hand and then not regret it until your health suffers.
Nice 👍🏽 can i use this method on an electric spray gun? Dont really have much access to an air compressor
Im not sure, never tried it myself. If you try it Id love to hear your feedback!
Yes you can I have a Wagner. Painted the inside of a 40ft shipping container. Full face with 2097 pancaked on ammonia cartridge.
Hey what's up a question can you use the Japan drier with the rustoleum paint as well? even if your using acetone and the reducer or what can you leave out Thank s RF
I almost always use the ingredients demonstrated in this last video; Paint, Acetone(Reducer), Catalyst(hardener) and Japan drier. They are all compatible. If you use both japan drier and catalyst in the mix be prepared for it to set-off quick. Thanks for the question!
To make an easy pour spout for a can of paint, that a good quality masking tape (one that has some adhesion) and use 2 strips to place over the opening making a V. The bottom of the V will be slightly inside the can. Make real sure that the tape is sticking to both the inner and outer lips of the can. This makes a perfect pour spout and properly done, there is very little mess. If the tape did not stick to the inner lip, the groove of the can will be full of paint and unnoticed will get everywhere when removing the tape. Always have a rag to wipe up any spills and drips. Now, the can lid will fit into a clean groove and not cause it to get stuck. If this is POR15, when dries in the groove you will never get the lid off. Try it, you may want to try a cheap duct tape as quality duct tape may make removal more difficult causing a mess.
Turn your cans so the spout is on the top and you won't gurgle it all over the bench. Works on your oil jugs too.
I pour all my oil quarts like that but never considered it for these, genious.
Every time I set up to spray outside the wind goes from 0 to 20 as soon as I start spraying
Looks good i used gas as my thinner im to cheap lol
What do you do if there is paint on the can, you shot one coat and waiting for the paint to dry? Do you leave the paint in the pot and won’t it harden by the time you shoot the 3rd coat? Or do you dump the paint, clean the gun and make a new batch when you shoot coat #2, repeat for coat #3?
I try to only mix what I can shoot in about 30 minutes time. What I've found is that the longer you hold this hot mix the less likely it will lay down/flow out nice. If there's a little in the gun I dump it, if its a lot I re-evaluate my estimation skills. 😁
Oh, and yes I typically dump the cup and rinse some acetone through the gun between coats. Always keep your mixed paint covered too.
UnitedStatesofBuild , Tvm. Gonna give this a go once the weather dries and warms up. Cheers!
I paint a lot of farm and boat stuff , what type of hardener is that , is that auto paint hardener.?
I linked it in the description. Thanks
Home Depot sells a plastic spout for 1 gal cans, with a vent and cap. Eliminates the annoying drip down the side!
Is this for any of rust oleum paint; or a specific kind of rust oleum?
alkyd enamel paint in general
I would only recommend an epoxy primer on a bumper.
Really enjoy your videos man! Unfortunately I’ve been looking for Japan drier everywhere but KleenStrip has discontinued that product from my research. Do you know of other alternative brands or something ?
Dang, thats news to me. My local ace has a dozen or so still on the shelf. Maybe I should snatch them up. I did have an amazon link for some in the description. Maybe its dead now?? Thanks for the tip though!!
UnitedStatesofBuild definitely stock up while you can my friend ✌️
You might check your local or online Artist supply store. Artists use it.
I watched your other video and now this one.. I only have the wetlook hardener the acetone and I using "Armor Coat" rust primer and Gloss White and Gloss Black rust paint.. and guessing they are rustolem products but they wont say... but that said.. can I use the hardner or do I need the dryer? and im using a syphon gun can version which be the best for that.. its also missing the little rubber clear hose not sure whats that for.. I guessing to keep dirt out to suck air
Youll be ok without Japan Drier. The clear hose should just be there to break the vacuum when material is siphoned out.
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 ah ok im also having issues with my gun.. i tried following your steps and others.. i did roughly a 4 parts pant 1 part mineral spirtis 1 part wet look and it ran off the stick in about 5 seconds.. but my gun not liking it i had to shake the gun up and down it it was spraying kinda.. i kept thinning it like water.. i could empty the can add gas i had and spray that and it picked it up.. so i thinned more the paint and was spraying on and off.. but then it was poooling on fenders i was trying to paint.. the gun is 30 yrs old has no rubber hose i mentionted but i cleaned everything only has the 2 knobs the spray increases the air flow and the other adjusts the handle... so i not sure how wet i should be doing it.. and its the Rustoleum Armor Coat Rust paint... Canadian Tire says you cant thin it.. but i think its because they want you to buy TRemclad instread of the Armor coat at 15 bucks more for the same.. so i still struggling getting it spray right out but sprays gas a steady stream
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 also most people use the gravity gun but i dont have one of those so i just using my late fathers spray gun and guns are not on sale.. so in the mean time i got frustrated and bought a couple cants of spray can primer just to prime things so cant rust more.. very frustrating and seems no videos really show people using Syphon gun all are gravity.. guess you dont have issue in the end if its a little thick or so as its pushing through doesnt need to suck it up..
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 i kinda got.it working only.sprays like 1 to 2 inch wide spray but had question spray can primer when dry comes out gray but when i mixed 4 parts paint 3 parts acetone 1 part wet look and when insprayed the gray isnt a nice gray but a slight green snot color what happened.. and i googled more syphone guns they have hose and the part that goes onto the yoke shape mine i have 2 only.have a hole there no.hose and just a nipple thats cleaned out i made sure for air on the lid part
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 also i tried cleaning it in mineral spirts and acentone to clean anything used wire cleaning tips.. and blew it out.. i filled the can with water to try it.. and the spray kinda works.. it sprays but sprays like a jet engine truck like those races with the transport with a jet engine on the back and its warming up its pulsing the jet.. thats what the spay is doing.. and really what is best gun to use today doing like boat trailers etc...i read some say the syphon is on its way out gravity is the way to go etc. but maybe you could email me or facebook me. comet424@msn.com i tried for now using tremclad Rust paint in a can and i not impressed the tips are crap and gives runs ill probably accept it as its just a trailer but i wanted a perfect finish.. and i priced out at a local paint shop and at 1500 before taxes wasnt worth it so any turn out i do is still worth it saving 1500 for a small boat trailer
Very nice, I learned a lot your a good instructor 👍 what about the spot it was Resting on lol sounds like a dumb question but didn’t look like you moved it?
Good question, that was where it was where it bolted to the frame. It was also covered by the add-on hitch that sits under the bumper.
I gotcha, I just wasn’t sure I was like wouldn’t he have too touch that up. 🤔
I did mention to the customer that he could touch it up with some gloss black from a rattle can if he wanted. It did have the old undercoating underneath, it wasnt bare metal.
Thanks for watching!
UnitedStatesofBuild Gotcha and anytime, thanks for replying and making videos!
Do you add catalyst to the primer to make it harder?
yes
GREAT QUESTION: painting 2 rusty garage metal doors with brush and roller. What paint or primer do you recommend for blocking the rust with a top coat of white satin. Can't wait for a tagger to see it and go: Ahhhhhhh.
A red oxide primer to stop the rust. Red oxide is tough to cover with white, Id maybe consider a grey primer mid coat then your satin white top coat
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 Thanks for the heads up.
Another video that will help me out. As I told you before, I want to paint my 1954 Fargo 1/2 ton flat black. I saw your Rustoleum videos and it got me thinking. Do you have any flat black jobs that you did with Rustoleum? Where did you come up with your ratio mixing formula? It was nice to see Grampa's 1947 ford pickup in the background. I also went to your home page and there are tons of videos that we can learn from. I hope you are ready to answer some questions? Ha-Ha. Thanks for sharing.👍👍
Id be glad to answer as best as I can. I use a fair amount of satin black. The bottom side of the 1947 ford bed is satin rustoleum. Alkyd enamels (oil base enamels) dont hold up to UV as well as urethane enamels. If you were to do your entire fargo you may want to consider the upgrade to a urethane enamel. Valspar makes a color for John Deere know as 'Blitz black' that is a great option. Its cheap, durable and easy to find. The 4:3:1 mix ratio is just an old tried-and-true DIYer ratio thats been around forever. Thanks Andy!!
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 Thanks a million for your answer. I've subbed a lot of other channels and asked a lot of questions and left a lot of comments, but not all reply to me. So I just delete them from my list. If they don't have time for me, I don't have time for them. You, on the other hand, have always gotten back to me and I appreciate that. I am old school thinking. Thanks for your videos and answers.👍👍
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 I second the Blitz Black. That stuff is great. Perfect sheen and even the rattle cans do a nice job for smalls and other areas where its just not worth dragging our the spray gun.
you waited 1.5 hours between coats using activated paint with japan dryer and it didn't spider web on you, that amazing...oh wait, you didn't clear it...ok that makes sense but i like having the protection of a hardened clear coat but your right probably not on a bumper....good tutorial....
Crown color base is cheap as well! Oklahoma city
I didn't watch much of it,but I'm surprised that it didn't turn out looking like textured spray on truck bed liner. Seeing how it was shot over a graveled parking lot during a wind.
How would you go about using acetone, Rustoleum and the Valspar enamel Hardner for a brush on job?
Id probably go about it pretty much the same BUT Id consider cutting the acetone dose rate in half. 4 : 1.5 : 1. What are you painting?
UnitedStatesofBuild. Painting my cast iron milling machine. It’s got bondo to fill in the casting marks. I ended up using the rusty metal primer in a rattle can. Wanting to go with the rustoleum orange. Can’t remember the name of it. But by itself the yellow rustoleum wasn’t hardening at all. I tested the yellow on my Wilton vice. The machine was brand new when I bought it but I was in for a long wait for some of the custom cnc stuff to arrive so figured I’d strip the old paint off and make it mine. So I finally ordered the valspar enamel hardener. I had better luck with the black rustoleum curing quicker when I cut it 30 percent with acetone. Following your lead though. Gotta brush it on cuz I don’t have any hplv stuff or a compressor for that matter.
Ok I see. The Hardener will definitely help you out. Good luck on the project!
Also check out the japan drier video: czcams.com/video/uJoCEvsamvI/video.html
and the solvent video: czcams.com/video/1Aq1xHZUNMg/video.html
UnitedStatesofBuild awesome thanks. I wouldn’t mind the wait for the paint to cure naturally but I’ve been buying parts for over a year for this machine and the last ones I was waiting on just came in so I’m ready to rock.
Excellent content. You show the mixing ratio for both Majic reducer, Mineral spirits and Acetone. Rustoleum recommends Acetone, under what circumstance would the Majic reducer be preferred, (it is harder to find and more expensive than Acetone or Mineral spirits.) Do mineral spirits and reducer act similarly as they the same mixing ratio?
I rarely us majic reducer. Mineral spirits and acetone will both work fine. M.S. would be slower drying than acetone. M.S. and majic reducer are similar in dry speeds
UnitedStatesofBuild When would you use Majic reducer, with paint or primer? I am going to use Rustoleum paint and primer to spray a black metal fence, which I have never done before. I bought a pint of the Majic reducer, as well as 8 oz of Majic catalyst as I saw you use it in your video. Most likely use reducer with the primer and no catalyst, I also plan to use Japan Drier too.
@@Dial430 If you are doing a prime and base coat then Id recommend spraying the primer coat with acetone or spirits and japan drier and then do your final color coats with reducer and hardener. The reducer and catalyst will give you the best quality and hardest top coat. Thats just my 2cents. You could always experiment to find your best process. Good luck with the job, let me know how it works out.
UnitedStatesofBuild Thanks for your help. I really liked your spray painting videos. I have watched them several times, the hvlp info is great. I am curious, you show two mixing ratios 4:3:1 and 10:1.5:1, are the differences due to using different guns, a hvlp (paint) and the siphon gun (primer)?
@@Dial430 Yes, exactly right. One gun is gravity feed and one is force feed.
Just a little tip my grandpa showed me if you turn your thinner can sideways and put your pour spout at the top them pour you dont get all that gurgling and spill that expensive thinner all over thanks for the vidieos
Don't forget to wear a Mask.
My friend Larry, an expert painter, died from dried paint in his lungs.
I used to spray paint without a respirator ... until, a friend of mine, (who also sprayed sans respirator) started to forget my name, then developed a weird twitch, then, the brain tumor was found... Then, He died, at the age of 34.
@@streetsmart1164 Dang ! I thought since he was outside in the wind, that it'd be ok. I shoot without a respirator but maybe I should stop now that I read your comments.
Ok no not of what you’re saying happened unless he was constantly spraying indoors without a mask
I have respiratory issues from back in the 80's
I also knew a great auto painter that died from the paint (and cigarettes). He won many awards for his work and was quite a guy. At the end, he struggled to get a breath.