2K Rustoleum | How to spray RUSTOLEUM (updated with your tips!!) Time & Material breakdown.
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- čas přidán 3. 08. 2020
- The best value paint out there is an acrylic alkyd. As far as durability, range of use and value go its top of the pyramid. Rustoleum, ACE rust stop, Valspar industrial enamel and rust armor, Majic implement paint and Axalta (Nason?) all fall under the Alkyd umbrella. These typically are treated as a 1K paint or single component coatings. They can easily be modified to a 2k (two component) paint using an activator (hardener, catalyst). The paint will respond well and your end product will benefit greatly. In this video I cover many of the great tips from commentors as well as how you can easily improve an already great product. Good luck on your project and please leave your feedback below!!
Happy Spraying!!
0:01 INTRO
1:15 The plan
3:05 japan drier
3:36 gun assembly and compressor
7:34 Pattern setup
9:04 mixing tricks and tips!!
13:15 assessing and spraying our pieces
17:02 Material conservation and tricky situations
23:27 Keeping production up for max profits
31:06 Time and material breakdown
34:35 Final product / job overview
Addition Paint Videos:
Mix Tips: • Video
Hardware store solvents: • Common hardware store ...
Japan Drier: • JAPAN DRIER -the secre...
HVLP quick start: • HVLP quick start guide...
Original Rustoleum HOW TO: • EASY: Spray rustoleum ...
Products:
VALSPAR catalyst\hardener: amzn.to/2CvaPUX
KRYLON catalyst\hardener: amzn.to/2FnMXmN
Reducer: amzn.to/32GZb4d
Mix cups (bulk): amzn.to/2DjTi5J
Mix cups (bulk): amzn.to/31hH6KK
Mix cups (12pk): amzn.to/3NoGsSR
Mix cups (12pk): amzn.to/39VmJ9V
Acetone bottles: amzn.to/2JzqxEr
Filter mask: amzn.to/2FnGLLu
Filter cartridges: amzn.to/2JE9bGu
Disposable jacket (10pk): amzn.to/2Fnk36n
Shop air system filter I use: amzn.to/3fodoKb
pour spout: amzn.to/30slFrf
Japan drier: amzn.to/33mvt7N
HVLP: I'd recommend starting with a cheap one from HFT. use a coupon or wait until they go on sale. they can be had for as little as $9.99.
#hvlp #howtopaint #rustoleum - Jak na to + styl
Thanks everyone for all the great tips on the last video! Add more here!! All products are linked in the description!
0:01 INTRO
1:15 The plan
3:05 japan drier
3:36 gun assembly and compressor
7:34 Pattern setup
9:04 mixing tricks and tips!!
13:15 assessing and spraying our pieces
17:02 Material conservation and tricky situations
23:27 Keeping production up for max profits
31:06 Time and material breakdown
34:35 Final product / job overview
Addition Paint Videos:
Mix Tips: czcams.com/video/gMF18rxfowI/video.html
Hardware store solvents: czcams.com/video/1Aq1xHZUNMg/video.html
Japan Drier: czcams.com/video/uJoCEvsamvI/video.html
HVLP quick start: czcams.com/video/Vx4Mydjaxug/video.html
Original Rustoleum HOW TO: czcams.com/video/bmEVN3tIKFU/video.html
Thank you for not incorporating cheesy music. I'd rather just watch someone work and explain while working. I get so much more out of these type of instructional videos.
I dont know maybe some 80s porn music would spice things up a bit 🤣
This video is so informative for for a beginner (wanna be intermediate) painter.
This video is so awesome!
When storing unused catalyst, add small glass balls or marbles to bring the level of the catalyst to the top of the can; this removes the air in the can. Now, you'll have fresh catalyst the next time you need it. When your catalyst can is empty, add acetone to the container and wash your balls for the next time ;-)
Wash my balls with acetone, NO THANK YOU!
@@c50ge That's cold.
@@billparsons7732
I hoped someone got a chuckle out of that one.
I always wash my balls
Washing your balls is always important
Man I found this video to find what to thin the rustoleom paint to spray and buddy you NAILED a how to spray video!!! I’ve been spraying for 15 years and everything from pearls to gelcoat and this video is what every new sprayer needs to watch!!! Only thing I’d add would be, when you test your spray pattern for new sprayers (worried about running it) keep it the distance you said and hold it for 3 seconds and if it runs then adjust the gun down until you have it a perfect diamond shape without a run
Interesting information, I’m taking notes…
Here is trick I use to make the catalyst not harden in the can after you have used some. It also works for PVC pipe glue. I have a tig welder and a Argon cylinder for tig shield gas, I have a small quick disconnect in the hose from the flow meter to the back of the welder. This is so I can disconnect and use a small amount of Argon to fill the catalyst/glue container. When I finish with the catalyst or glue before storing it I put the Argon from the flow meter into the container opening. Argon is heavier than air to it fills the container with Argon then seal the container and store it.
With the crazy prices in body shops. You are providing a good service for the DYI folks
I have watched a lot of paint videos over the past several months, and I honestly believe that I am learning more from your explanations than I have from most others.
Thank you
Thanks for the videos. Just bought a cheap HVLP and used your videos to guide me through. The spray gun was the cheapest of all ironically. The ratio mixes have helped tremendously.
Isocyanates are extremely hazardous to your health and you need the following ...
- Full-Face Respirator
- Paint Suit w/Hood
- Nitrile Gloves
- Spray Outside (Don't spray inside unless you have a dedicated booth)
Basically, you need to covered up because isocyanates can absorb through any mucus membrane, hair, and even skin!
Try 5:2:0.3 for Rustuleom paint 😉
I have been looking good videos about start to finish Rust-Oleum and all the steps and products and I finally feel like I found it.
Great tips, need to bookmark this one for sure. Love the T&M breakdown analysis and the "what's your time worth?" comment. Thanks from Colorado.
Finally. This is one of the best diy spray painting video. The 6 inch distance from from the surface and 6 inch spray pattern.
Awesome tutorial. Thank you for putting together this video.
Awesome video! Thank you for taking the time to put this together. Love all the tips/tricks.
Awesome !!! Thank you so much for taking the time and effort to create this great video !
Glad you enjoyed it!
You have done an exceptional job with an instructional video. Amazing detail and world-class organizational skills. You have provided an excellent service to this community. Even the description is incredibly well detailed and complete. Fantastic quality of work. Truly, thanks for your efforts. I haven't been so impressed in a very long time.
I really appreciate the gun specs and the compressor recommendations. I have several big projects so I’ll be investing in a bigger compressor and you gave me a little more information to take into account on the size I will need. Thanks, very good video!
This was a good video idea, great job!
another winner thank again nice job
Thanks for the link to the hardener. Went to lowes and couldnt find it on the shelf. Much easier to click and buy on amazon!
Thanks for watching! If you have an ACE, NAPA or Tractor Supply they usually carry hardener. My local ACE had to move their commercial line of alkyd enamels (axalta used here) in the warehouse. You have to request it at the paint counter
We hank you for the tips. Great video.
this guy knows his stuff on enamels He has a good video on rolling and mixing enamel using a high-density foam roller.
Good video. Im saving this.👍👍👍
Learned alot. Subbed
From one CZcamsr to another great job as always
Thanks!
Great lesson
You are a great Master Painter.
well explained!!!
Graet job, keep them videos coming. I have a lot of tips. THANK YOU Mike from Southern California
I like your cribbing stands
Your paint videos have been invaluable to me. I did not know about harder for oil based paint until I watched your original video. I also didn't know about Japan Dryer until one of your videos. Thank you.
Great to hear! I added a bunch of tips to this one, hopefully you can glean something new! Thanks Amy
I echo this. Your vids and info are great! My painting conditions are similar to yours and the stuff I paint is likewise like yours.
And me ow I'm going to be using your methods.
Thank you for these well done and superbly documented videos.
Looks like its been painted with a catapult great effort 👍👍👍😀🥴
People get so surprised when Rustoleum paint comes out nicely, but I had the opportunity to provide chemical engineering formulation support to Rustoleum, PPG, Sherwin, Majic, and more. Can’t say much due to NDA’s, but Rustoleum actually uses a lot of the same exact stuff that PPG does 🤷♂️ granted, they know their target audiences are different so there are definitely formulating and quality differences, but for the price it’s really impossible to beat Rustoleum in my “expert” opinion. Also, I’m sure this is public by now, but Majic will only be available at True Value Hardware as they just purchased that line from Yenkin Majestic. That move royally screwed me and my old company, taking away local business.
Would you say magic tractor paint is same quality as rustolium tractor paint?
Great video, Vincent, and interesting business perspective. That would sure be a good moneymaker, for a small investment. 👍 Tony
Thanks Tony! I think on the last video people were having a hard time looking past the cost of acquiring a compressor, I was hoping to help that.
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 Even my little sister has her own compressor! Lol.
Haha, she knows the value!
UnitedStatesofBuild what kind of air compressor would you recommend to paint similar projects?
Ever paint aluminum like boats or pontoons? That would be a good video... thanks for sharing all your work.
3:45. The comment comparing this spray recipe/method to rattle cans due to cost is really irrelevant. Rattle can paint is garbage…it is over-thinned and catalyzed to dry fast, but provides near 0 protection. To get the same fluid film thickness you get spraying one coat of this mix through an HVLP gun using rattle cans, you’d probably need 10+ coats. Plus the finish does not compare and rattle can paint will never harden to this level. It also tends to lift and it doesn’t adhere nearly as well. I’ve sprayed this formulation on hundreds of projects and once you get your gun settings and overlap down, you get ridiculously good flow out and show level gloss with zero orange peel. It really is a completely different animal all together when compared to rattle crap (I mean cans ;) ). Thanks for the original formulation video wayyyy back. This formulation has been amazing in my shop!
I know you said you power washed and degreased but did you sand or use adhesion promoter? Or am I correct in thinking these are just quick Beautifying spray’s?
Seriously Solid Content here from beginning to end... Thank you, well done!
I do have two questions for you, with regard to pieces a that need to be restored, as in wire wheel/flapdisk to remove rust and restore smooth surface, what are your thoughts on using "rust-reformer" type products, have you noticed any significant benefit in terms of lasting longer before the reappearance of rust, or is a good solid removal of the rusted areas back to clean metal followed by standard practice primer, paint coats sufficient in your opinion, especially for farm implements or vehicle frames etc?
Also with regard to the use of hardener, is the paint more brittle in terms of being more prone to cracking and flaking off on parts that flex? such as leaf springs? or does the hardener result ultimately in the same surface characteristics as Rust oleum which has been put on in light coats and allowed sufficient time to cure between each coat?
You may find pouring with the spout on top a little easier if you turn the can on it's long side and pour across the can. The handle will be out of the way.
Thanks for the lessons. I do not see using a rustoleum primer first. Do you not use any cause of rustoleum's paint is a primer also? I have there primer and want to use it, but not sure if you add catalyst, and hardener, and if so is it the same ratio? Thanks for your help. Keep the videos combing.
Awesome video! I am using the Rustoluem Professional oil-based flat primer rust color. What hardener/catalyst do you recommend and why? I want to paint my old car primer. No show room finish just a driver. Thank you
Some questions: 1) Is primer thinned at the same rate? Seems like 4:3:1 ratio when I do it is very runny. How about 4:1:1?
How long after spraying primer can it be top coated? Directions say 24 hrs but is that necessary? Do you sand the primer before top coating?
Is primer necessary? I see you used it in some videos and not in others.
I've heard good things about the $40 Harbor Freight electric sprayer. No compressor needed.
Excellent video, great follow-up to 1st one. I'm recently acquired & looking at painting a run of the mill Tractor Supply - Carry-on 5x8 utility trailer with a wire mesh floor. I'm looking at picking up this HF HVLP paint gun & using this "2k" process to paint it, before installing a wood floor deck. Have you ever used or painted over a rust-preventative or sealer product like Corroseal? It looks to have good reviews, was going to roll Corroseal on the wire mesh floor area & light sand the rails & fenders, just shoot those with Rustoleum satin black. I've only painted car parts with rattle cans before, so videos this detailed are really appreciated.
I have no experience with corroseal but I have painted over por15 on numerous occasions. The main thing is to ensure compatibility and provide a good mechanical bond by properly scuffing the surfaces. Thanks!
I have been combating rust on my Dodge's for years. I have used corroseal to convert light rust. While it looks like it works, it doesn't over time. I have even tried this on the inside of fenders, used a wire wheel and then cleaned and painted on the corroseal. Then I painted with oil enamel rustoleum, eventually the rust came back. Really the only way to stop rust is to sandblast to bare metal and then prime and paint.
@@chvydrptopfluid film or even better yet, surface shield. Those are the products I use on my old rusty truck. Rust converters don't work that well.
Im working on a trailer build. I have a harbor freight trailer that I’m building a metal railing and ramp for so I’ll be getting ready to paint next week
thatll be good. perfect use for some rustoleum. Thanks!
Need to use a primer, any rustoleum suitable for use before the alky paint methods you're showing? Also what about pressures? How bout 35? Thanks
when do you spray primer? in primer do you use hardener or japan drier?
I really appreciate your videos and have a couple questions. I am restoring a '65 Barracuda and am looking to paint the chassis components like control arms, differential, K frame, torsion bars etc., in satin black Rustoleum with a hardener. The recommended hardener ratio is listed on the cans (both Krylon and Valspar) is 16:1. Could you please explain why you use 4 times the hardener recommended (4:1)? I am concerned that 4:1 would make the paint brittle and more subject to stone chips. Reading reviews on Amazon for the Valspar product, pretty much all the reviews state a mix ratio of 16:1 as stated on the can is the way to go. Also, Rustoleum states up to 15% acetone for thinning to spray, and you are at a 4:3 ratio for acetone, which is 75%. Please explain how you arrived at these amounts and if the finish durability is compromised. I realize these are not scientific tests, but knowing how experienced you are with these products, I'd like to understand your reasoning for these significant deviations from the published ratios. Thanks! Bob
Honestly I truly believe that the mixing rates rustoleum gives are in large part because they have to adhere to EPA regulations. These alkyds are capable of much more manipulation than they advertise, as you can see. The thinning rates I use are just to get a nice flow out of an HVLP. Ive stuck with them over the years simply because they have served me very well. Im not the first to use that rate either, its been around forever. I occasionally use a pressure pot and I thin at 4 : 1.5 : 1. Ive seen guys spray at 1:1 with no catalyst and have fair results. As far as the catalyst rate Im sure you could scale it back a bit to save $money$ OR alleviate some of the brittleness if that was a concern. Im sure it would be great at their 16:1 or even 8:1. For me its a matter of habit, durability and job turn-around. Heck, if its a really tight schedule I occasionally throw in a cap or two of japan drier and really light it off. Again, I really believe the dose rates these mfgr's recommend are largely due to VOC compliance. These alkyd enamels have stayed on the shelf much longer than many other products of similar persuasion.
PS: The worst result Ive personally had was with paint thinner at the recommended 15% and no catalyst. It took almost 2 days to dry enough to handle.
Thanks for the inquiry Bob, great question.
Can I twist the tip in the gun for a horizontal fan pattern rather than a vertical fan pattern? I'm going to be painted a shipping container. I'd rather work end to end not top to bottom. Thanks!
Have you ever used Super Wet Look hardener? I'm planning on painting some bikes, can't afford automotive paint, but I'd like a nice gloss and hardened fuel resistant paint.
On the majic catalyst it recommends a positive pressure air respirator. Is this necessary if your spraying outdoors? What is your opinion and what have you heard others say??
Love these videos keep ‘em coming!!
When you use japan drier, do you base the amount of the japan drier you use on the amount of paint or the amount of paint + reducer? Example: if I am shooting a 1:1 paint to acetone and use 12 fl.oz of paint and 12 fl.oz of acetone, do you base the amount of japan drier on 12 fl.oz of paint only or the total 24 fl.oz of paint + acetone? Thanks!
I base off the paint. So in your case 12oz, great question btw
Skip all the tape spout on the paint can gimmicks. Just pour the paint right out of the can and brush away any excess. Great video!
a good compressor is essential for a serious do it your selfer. you can rent or borrow or buy . harbor freight has great buys. a good compressor can run many tools
Hi--well done. Why wouldn't you use Rustoleum Farm/Implement or their Industrial paint for the work you demonstrated--in the video you were using the basic "protective enamel." Does the hardener make it that much better? Would the other types of Rustoleum be even better with hardener? Have you found that it doesn't make much difference? Certainly, the basic stuff has a wider color choice.
Nice! Thanks for sharing… Where you get you get your materials low like that?
You mentioned that Japan drier is salt based. Does that mean that the paint is more likely to dissolve from road salt kicking onto my bike? I also plan on painting the bike frame with Rustoleum's boat bottom paint, which I believe is formulated to resist saltwater. Do you know if marine paint is an alklyd and if an acrylic urethane can or should be used as clearcoat?
@cheetoman23
"Salt" in this context does not necessarily mean sodium chloride. Japan drier has salts of heavy metals rather than sodium (which is chemically a metal).
First of all THANKS! Im another follower with 1 question. Sorry but I haven't read all the comments so don't know if you already covered this. You don't use primer on your work prior to putting down your finish coat. Im about to paint a 1953 GMC truck using your methods. So. Primer first? Or not necessary cuz its Rustoleum?
Great vid, I have a question do I need harder if I’m putting a clear coat over? I just want to make sure I buy everything at once. Thanks
If your clear coat is a 2k then you'll want your color coat to be 2k also. Youll want to ensure they are compatible systems also. Thanks for watching!
I usually paint a primer on metal surfaces before I paint color. Do most people not prime?
You seemed to be getting to much wind when you were spraying with the first white. Is your lid loose and that is why it is leaking? Ronnie.
What do you mean by 2K? what does the catalyst do? Is that recommended for patio furniture?
Noticed lot of surface rust on equipment that you sprayes over. If not buffed or treated want the paint chip/flake off in near future?
Thx new subscriber
Surface rust isnt as serious as loose rust. I have a 3500psi pressure washer and for the really flaky, bad stuff I wire wheel it. Rust needs oxygen and the rustoleum is pretty good at stopping intrusion.
Anyone know if a silicon/enamel hammertone paint can have catylist and Gardner added?
Does the mixing ratio work for the primer?
The only thing I saw, that I would do that you didnt, is if you aren't going to blast the parts, atleast sand them for better adhesion. And use a rust converter to ensure the paint last a good amount of time and doesnt rust within a few weeks. Other than that good video. Keep up the good work
And you get a little fast sometimes and leave holidays. I'd suggest slowing down and catching everything as you go to avoid missing as much as possible
Thank you I could not find the cone filters or whats the fillter micron size
Hey are all these principles apply to rustolium or manic tractor paint?
Was this all done with a 1.4 tip size? What psi setting?
Any tips for spraying High Heat Rustoleum? Can you mix catalyst? Does it have to be High Temp also?
I like the qualities and sheen of high heat Rust-Oleum. VM&P Naptha with hardener is my mix.
I noticed when I sprayed rustoleum, when I let it flash off and recoated, it looked perfect- until the next day and then the surface crinkled up. I read the instructions and it said recoat after 2 hours. I did that after I sanded everything back down and no issues. Maybe adding hardener to yours changes the chemistry enough to prevent yours from crinkling on a short recoat time? Best I could come up with in research was that the first layer was still off gassing and caused my crinkling. Surface was degreased with acetone so I don't think surface prep was the issue. Also I've noticed just thick coats seem to crinkle too, like anywhere a drip would almost form. What are your thoughts? And your videos have been especially helpful. Thank you!
Were you reducing with acetone?
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 yes
The hardener will help with that. Without the hardener the underlying coats will soften. Ive heard of it happening when lacquer thinner is used too. Thanks!
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 will definitely try hardener next time. Thanks for your input!
You waited too long. Either hit or again within the hour, or wait two days
How long do you wait between coats?
some of the things you are spraying are quite rusty, how long will the paint last on those?
When pricing, make sure that you are adding power, rent, and insurance. Overhead costs add up and can kill your ability to make a profit.
Did you consider the potential of the acetone fumes getting to the brush sparks in the drill and causing a fire? Or were you using a brushless drill?
In that big air space I dont think Id worry too much.
Where and what would the fire burn?
how well would this do with a home compressor?
The 3M PPS System would be a huge plus for this type of painting!
Most of the painters I know are big on protecting the lungs but ignore the eyes, your eyes will soak that stuff up faster than your lungs will.
First, thanks for the info and tips on using these products. There was a lot of questions and comments about surface prep and spraying over the rust which I think were valid so I'm wondering if you have any updates on these projects as in, what do they look like now that 18 months or so has gone by. Is the coating holding up on these pieces adequately? Thanks.
I have noticed that this question has been overlooked. Seems like after a year he don't care.
You don't need a wide fan when you put the paint on a small piece just cut the amount of paint till a very small amount comes out with no fan you save paint and no runs then after 2 coats use a little fan and more volume of paint but you must go fast so you don't get runs, use a fast reducer and wax n grease remover first then a adhesion promoter I've painted cars, heavy equipment, buildings ,ships,motorcycles, houses,guns,bicycles,boats,, Furnitures, masonry, wood decks, drum sets ,guitars, so I've used every kind of coatings and there's a sh.t load of different kinds so do your home work a job is only as good as your prep so go to it
Anybody know if there are gloss additives for regular Rustoleum paint?
How long do you wait in between coats
you can add a flating agent to stop orange peal fo car painting
Such as?
How much did you charge to paint the ladder?
Amazing video! I run a small fabrication shop and it’s expanding quite fast! I’ll be using method for painting , no more cans!! One question I have though... would you say it’s a good investment to buy a husky gun over the purple harbor freight gun?
If youre new to spraying Id probably go with the HFT gun. Once youve got the fundamentals down then try upgrading the gun. If you can satisfy customers with a $10 gun then it should only get better from there.
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 What are the advantages of a more expensive gun
Also, there are some good videos about that purple HFT gun that cover some tuning techniques to make that mediocre gun into a pretty decent (not great) spray gun.
And to the question if the benefit of more expensive guns? The atomization and adjustability increase which usually results in better material lay down and a better finished paint job.
@@linnbrown1675 okay so better question.. I don’t ever plan on painting cars professionally with this.. also I already have an air compressor although it’s only an 8 Gal. 6CFM @ 40PSI... so I am wondering if a LVLP gun would be better for my situation? Thoughts on lvlp?
@@linnbrown1675 needless to say I need a bigger air compressor... Would a 25 gallon 4HP be sufficient?
Nice vid. But if I was to paint a old rusty unit like that it would be a paint and roller.
Isn't there an induction time you have to wait after adding the catalyst before spraying?
Ive heard of this on epoxies and other 2 part resins, its usually to ensure adequate cross-linking. I had never heard of it for oil based paint so I ran out to my shop and checked all the cans. None of them indicated the need for it.
Valspar catalyst hardener cans had a 30 minute induction period. Those are no longer available once Sherwin Williams bought Valspar. I am curious if other branded catalyst cans have an induction period.
Never punch holes in the paint can rim. If you store paint it will dry out. A chip brush will clean the groove, plus gooey curds will wind up in your paint. Filter or not, paint clean. It will take less time doing it clean than dealing with shortcuts
Been doing it for years never have had a problem
Does anyone know if this mix ratio works the same with their farm and tractor paint?
Alkyd enamel, that is the ticket
Make sure there is nothing of importance down wind of where your spraying unless you want a light coat of paint on it.
I love your video but what's a cadilist
This a video showing us that you can still paint without a fancy paint booth. BTW, why didn't you spray some primer?
Yeh, a paint booth would be cool but you gotta make do. No primer, all these items were previously coated. I was just freshening them up.
You don’t need primer with these alkyd paints. They adhere incredibly well and you can flash and coat to your desired hide/finish. Sure you can prime if you want to, but I never have and the results and longevity have been outstanding…at least as good as, and in my experience better than primed parts sprayed with high-end 2k paint and I’ve sprayed hundreds of parts using this recipe, including show car rearends, chassis, highly visible brackets, etc…
Just to add to your cost and earnings don't forget to account for the wear and tare on you tools. In the business world that's capex. That's a hidden cost most people don't account for or spend their capex on anythng but capital expenditures
Also paint disposal fees. These are all hidden cost each person must account for.
How come when i put down my paint on my car, I go back the next day and clear coat it and the paint starts to wrinkle? Why does it do that?
Could be:
1) The clear coat and paint aren't compatible OR
2) The paint didn't have adequate time to harden
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 Thanks for the reply. I’m not letting the paint dry enough from what everyone is telling me
Will this method and paint work well in a turbine Fuji hvlp system?
Yes, I have done it before with a 4 stage turbine setup and a 1.3 tip
Howm any coats did you put on each item?
Yes you need to make sure they pay cash or add 50 percent for checks cash is king
I don't think you fold the tape down on the can below where the "V" forms. Leave it sticking out to form a funnel shape.
☝️what he said...leave tape sticking out overlapping each other so the paint flows to the end of the tape "spout" instead of over the edge of the can. It will flow off the tape right into your cup👍
How long is pot life once you add hardener?.
8 hours is common
please be every very careful regarding that hardener. is 60% ISO and don't get near it unless you have your mask and full body protection, goggle, ear protection.. very very nasty stuff