Prusa MMU3 Part 1 - Assembly - Chris's Basement - 2024
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- čas přidán 7. 06. 2024
- Our transition from MK3S+ to MMU3 begins here and now. (Que John Williams Star Wars music. Can you hear it?) In part 1, we will see what's in the kit, print out all our parts, and assemble the unit.
A note on compatibility. Please check this site before you buy an MMU3. Some printers are not officially supported. We might be able to get them to work. :)
help.prusa3d.com/article/mmu3...
00:00 Introduction
01:30 What's in the box?
05:37 Printed Parts
11:12 Assembly
39:21 Conclusion
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Perfect to bridge the waiting time for the MMU3 for my MK4.👍🏻
🙂👍
Always great content 👌 Thanks Chris!
Thanks for watching
Thanks Chris, always love some good MMU content.
Thanks for watching!
Was waiting for you to make a video on this! Your build videos are great!
Thank you!
This video is perfect timing, I recently upgraded my mk3 to mk3s+ and today received my MMU3 kit.
Yes! I love it when a plan coms together!
Awesome series!!! Lets gooooo !
👍🙂
I've been waiting for the MMU3 for the MK4 that I ordered last July. I'm just going crazy waiting till it ships next month if still as planned. This is great to watch to get ready for it.
Let us know how it goes!
Great vid as always. Waiting for next 3D Chameleon vid...assembling my MK3.1 along with you.
Coming soon!
Good job Chris. I am on the way to make the MMU 3 for my build Bear Prusa. Waiting with interest your future posts.👍
Thanks, more to come!
Great video, cannot wait to get my MMU3 for my MK4, waited for a year almost.
Hope you enjoy it!
i just finished the upgrade to mmu3, i got a multi color print to complete on the first try! the old version was more than a little bit frustrating. thanks for the video!
That's great! Thanks for watching
Looks awesome! Cant wait to see how it works. I have 3 ERCF with 12 carts each. They can be a nightmare, but once dialed in they work good. I retrofitted mine with a filament cut-off mechanism, so I didnt have to deal with the warped tips. I think the new ERCF has this too.
That's great! Thanks
Hi Chris thanks to start this. You have not mentioned at the beginning that the Mmu3 can now be installed with the MK3.5. I suggest that you add this subject in one of the coming parts
Thanks!
For the MMU2 I always just had 3 dual slot dryers side by side for filament management. I never had an issue with that. I had tons of issues with filament tips though. I'm hoping my brand new sunlu s4 fila dryer will be good enough for 4 of the color slots. I have 2 of them. (2 printers after all). Then I can use one of the older dryers for slot 5 if I need.
Thanks for sharing, good luck with your projects!
oooohhhh V shaped blades. That's a nice upgrade.
👍🙂
hell yeah
👍
On upgrading the MMU2 you mentioned an upgrade to the collets by using the quick connect connectors to hold the PTFE tubing feeding the MMU3. Are you going to do that modification? Just curious.
The MMU3 already has that part, I just use it, no need to upgrade.
Thanks for a great video guide. Maybe too early to ask but does this MMU unit work with klipper?
It does not. Good luck with your projects!
Got my MMU3 mostly assembled. I need the rest of this series. How can I print without it? LOL this series came at the right time, but I need more.
Thank you! More to come!
I have the 3 and loved it. now waiting for the mk4 set up. It was a bummer that when I up grated the 3+ I have to a 3.9 the 3 will not work "Yet".
Keep after it!
Waiting on Prusa for the wires to hook up the mk4 board. Then the Mk3.9 and Mk4 will have MMU3 on them. Hope it will be sooner than later. Have a great day Chris.@@ChrisRiley
Noticed you have nice hex drivers during assembly. Able to share affiliate link? Cheers!
Here you go!
EKLIND 92500 PSD Ball-Hex (allen) Precision Screwdriver on Amazon (aff):
geni.us/U7HFG
What a coincidence! I just want to update my MMU2s to the new Firmware as there is already a nearly-done implementation for marlin on the way. Any chance you will go in-depth about this as you already did years ago?
I'll look into it!
🤔 Hi Chris. I assume your catch was edited out - but just making sure that you caught the square nut that fell out of the print at 33:02 in the video? The way the vid was edited it sort of looks like you put it back in the bag and perhaps missed that it was an escapee? Also, are you going to be attending RMRRF next month? or Goshen in June?
Good looking out, I got it!
We're going to skip Rocky Mountain this year but we're planning on going to MRRF in June. Hopefully we'll see you there!
Chris, you are the master of filament changing systems. Wish they would use heat set inserts instead of the captured nuts. At least have alternate print files for them. Will be interesting to see it in action
Thanks, Dave!
Nice to see you back. One short question for anyone who can tell me about STM32 processors memory, 512k Flash memory is fine but RAM 64k is too short? Is it the reason why the Marlin screen Menu dose not show all possible options? Is the Nano Robin V3.1 better than V3.0 as I see that V3.0 has 1024k flash memory but less RAM? Thanks.
The flash memory is really the only thing that should cause you not to have all the options available. 512k should be big enough for anything in Marlin. I think the 3.1 was just a fix upgrade to correct some issues, but I don't know for sure.
Still going to need a solution for the tips. How do you go about cutting and don't you still need a filament buffer? Also is this firmware independent like smuff? I can't wait to see.
Coming Soon!
Waiting for the tune and calibrate vid cause also this mmu3s is a pain in that thing on your behind ;) sometimes.
Coming soon!
How does this compare to the ERCF V2? Is it worth modding this to work on a Voron?
I don't think it's worth the re-write to get it working with Klipper. I have never used the carrot feeder though.
I did discover an oddity about the MMU2 though. It was one of my last prints before my mk3 started collecting dust because of my mk4. I was printing with wet prusament pla (lipstick red) and it got stuck in the mmu2. More specifically it got stuck in the short PTFE tube after the idler, but before the selector. To this day I couldn't get it out. I had to cut the line and replace the tube with a spare. But when I was putting it in I noticed the funnel side of the PTFE tubes were all facing out. I'm like.......yeah......that can't be right. obviously I didn't follow the instructions correctly. So I flipped them. Now they all point at the mmu idler. put it all back together. Noticed that it was about 20x easier to load now. So I double checked. I didn't mess it up. The instructions ask you to have the funnel facing the selector. Many people in the comments realized this is wrong and swapped them. Someone mentioned their newer order included funnels on both sides.
Thanks!
hmm I guess I get to see how hard it is to get the brass out. My mk3 upgrade I'll stick with prusa colors. My mk4 thought, It's going to be purple because the printer is purple as hell. lol Iove my purple mk4. lol
It's not so hard with a trusty soldering iron.
@@ChrisRiley I have a super cheap one. lol Then again it was good enough to fix my commodore 64. 1 bad ram chip (replaced all because it was a shitty brand) and 1 bad cartridge port. so it will probably work. lol
Can this be used for a non Prussia printer?
Not easily, it would take a lot of coding and configuration to make it work.
That's disapointing. The screws that control the tension and keep the door closed........I hated retentioning it every time I opened it. They need to use clips. I was hoping that would get upgraded. Not to mention I'm ALWAYS losing the springs
Thanks
can you use the MMU on other printers...Ender line? I have e3with directdrive, bttskrmini3 and e3max with 4.2.7 direct drive and btt klipper pad7
At this time, no. The only way it would work is if you ran Marlin. Marlin support for MMU3 should be out soon.
thank yuoo@@ChrisRiley
thanks@@ChrisRiley
Is it possible to use it on any 3D printer? I mean, not only Prusa's ones.
It can be done, but it's not easy by any means. It would take a lot of custom work.
@@ChrisRiley What about your "LOG" printer?
is it just me or did that build plate look bowed in the middle?
I don't think so. 🙂
Pls do a video on Anycubic kobra Neo with klipper setup this printer has very less resource and guide online plss
I'll see what I can do!
Damn it's a shame you haven't looked into smuff
I've seen it. Very interesting
Ohhh. Not for the MK4. 😢 I had my hopes up again. Had I known the MMU3 was going to be so problematic to release I would not have bought the MK4 and MMU3 and just spent more for the XL 5 head. Less waste and faster. Lesson learned. Great start for the series nonetheless. ❤
Thank you
nope......not doing it. The funnel on mine will be facing in. After I made that mod on the mmu2 I thought it was the best upgrade I made to it. lol I might just use my counter sync and funnel out both sides.
🙂👍
Technology from the Stone Age...
Thanks for watching
Really a pity, but I can't shake the impression that Prusa is slowly losing ground. When I see what other manufacturers have brought to the market in recent months, the things Prusa develops just seem outdated and obsolete in comparison. Thx for the interesting video anyway 👍🏻
Thanks for watching
that's also disappointing. Instead of fixing the power issue in a new revision board they just make it a daughter board? I would have rather had it be a new board. Make the daughter board only for upgrades.
Thanks
Its just kind of silly how much effort Prusa has spent on this thing, and I wasted my share of time on the MMU1 and MMU2. What is that saying about being twice burned? I have a Palette 3 Pro, which works fine, but I have 3 Bambu AMS units and they all work well, almost all the time. The AMS is just so much better of a solution, because its not just multi materials but storage as well. After using the AMS, its hard for me to not laugh when I see MMU3 videos.
Thanks for your comment!
I just cannot farhom how that box of parts costs $300... not to mention the fact that u also have to print all the major components out as well for that price. That's just outrageous compared to competitors' products. I just dont get why anyone would by Prusa today, other than the die harf fan boys that are keeping them alive.
Thanks for watching!
Prusa sells engineered solutions. When is the last time you read someone stopped 3d printing because they were frustrated with their prusa printer? No other company, with the possible exception of Carbon, does as much integration and development work as Pursa.
As a product Designer, with years of experience, when I looked at the MMU I was surprised that anybody ever got it to work. The issue is one of tolerance stack Up. For every part there's a tolerance that you need to be able to hold in order to get the whole thing to work, with printed parts it's almost impossible to achieve any kind of repeatable tolerance. The number of parts increase the difficulty in getting it to work. The more parts the more tolerance stack up you have. They should have thrown away that design and started completely from scratch and done away with printed parts.
Interesting point of view, thanks for the comment.
May be there is no critical tolerances?
I just saw only that part of assembly video for now.
And on my opinion there is one important gap - between gear wheels and ball bearing
@@IvanDorozhkin All tolerances are Important. But what is critical are the tolerance stack UPS. So what is a tolerance Stack Up? Every part has a tolerance and when you assemble two parts together the tolerances combine or subtracts.. So for example part 1 has a length tolerance of plus or minus .010. Part 2 has a length tolerance of plus or minus .005.
So for any combination of part 1 and part 2 the length size can be very anywhere from minus .015 and plus .015 for a total of .030. And that's just two parts. So you can see if you've got a clearance between two moving parts you can quickly have a clearance that is way too big or one that is so narrow that the parts rub against each other.
The more parts you have in a assembly the more complex these combinations can become especially given the large size of the tolerances that you can expect to see in 3D printed parts.
Every assembly in Manufacturing MUST have a tolerance study and this is the ONLY way we can Insure 100% interchangeability. And it's the ONLY way you can ensure that when you operate a mechanism it's not going to be so jammed it breaks are so loose it falls apart. I've actually had hands-on experience with assembling and operating a MMU unit. And believe me it was pretty ugly.
Sorry for the soapbox but I hope you get a sense of why and why not some of these mechanisms work or don't work
@@garyengelman7867 of course, tolerances are important. But there is no critical tolerances in that assembly, that I can see.
There is a 3 global moving parts: 30:59 - gears on each line (on one motor), 15:44 - rotating assembly with bearings and 34:21 - moving part for selection with sensor.
No one is not so critical for that mechanism if all rotating and moving. Only gap between first and second assemblies - if all filaments moving to selector in that place, if selector moving precisely (+-) then it's almost impossible not to run this mechanism.
@@IvanDorozhkin Good luck.
Here is an alternate buffer cassette holder I made on Printables 572528-mmu3-cassette-compatible-buffer
Here is a tweaked Selector body that is less likely to break when tightening the Finda sensor, also on Printables 776849-modified-mmu3-selector-very-slight
Cool! Thanks!
23:29 is the step where my selector broke, so I finished my bag of bears, checked the comments on the step and found it was common, and remodeled the part.
@@ChrisRileyit’s not perfect but is works. (I need to clean up the files too😂)
26:11 I think they go the other way and argued my point in the comments and said if the chamfer needs to be facing out then both sides should be chamfered. Looking at some of the pictures, I think some were built with the chamfer facing in.