Yes damp leads to mould but not necessarily to a new damp course
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- Further on site facts about damp and mould in social housing. Bryan Hindle CSRT CSSW stresses the underlying causes of these problems in Yorkshire's housing, without always reaching for the chemical damp course.
Accurate damp diagnosis and information by a qualified and experienced damp specialist, for everyone to share.
This was a brilliant vid classic condensation going to the coldest parts I.e external was and windows. You high lighted everything I would have picked out, and again lifestyles have changed and these properties haven't adapted. I wod advise the TNT 2 manage condensation cos it likely to come back in the colder months regardless. Excellent vid
Another top vid from a top guy.
Would love to see some follow up vids after the work has been carried out...before and after sort of thing.
Again, nice job
great videos thanks for shearing ! do you have any tips on how to use and what to look for using hydro imaging camera in house inceptions . thanks again very helpful stuff.
Really interesting...
Very good can I ask if there is already damp proof course on a conservatory 10 yr old but I have been seeing some White mold on the external brick work. Does this mean the damp course need replacing?
Another very interesting vid Brian, thank you.
I have a 1920's house with solid 9" walls and a damp problem. I think this will always be the case as we have a sloping rear garden and the yard doesn't enjoy much 'whicking' being pretty much out of the wind.
What is your stance on the many brick sealer type liquids I've seen on the market? I'm worried that they might not be a good idea as they could seal the wall too effectively and stop it breathing. Ultimately I think I'm going to have to add extra drainage channels in the external concrete base or even consider tanking but being a suspended timber floor I'm not sure how healthy a solution this would be. Any advice much appreciated.
NIge
Hello, water repellents are only a good idea for rainwater penetration. If the problem is one of condensation or rising damp then there will be little point applying them and they may do more harm than good. The modern siloxane water repellents do not block pores and lead to significantly reduced evaporation. However it is important clean he wall of all dust and debris first, otherwise the application of the product makes a fine paste on the surface, which will block pores. Visit the Safeguard Europe web site and look for Storm Dry cream.
Really interesting...