Engine Rebuild Under $200 | 302 Short Block Assembly
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- čas přidán 28. 06. 2024
- This video is proudly sponsored by the Katmann & Robert Lugo !
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Angel Robles
P.O. Box 27794
Tucson AZ 85726
Angel Robles
1501 S Cherrybell Strav
#27794
Tucson, AZ 85726 - Auta a dopravní prostředky
You do such a nice job of making this feel approachable for those of us with modest mechanical experience. Nice clear explanations, patiently explained so it’s easy to follow. Feel good about it, it’s not a common gift 👍
What a great comment thanks Kev 👍🏻👍🏻🤘🏼
When I was 16, wayyy back in the 80's with no money...my Dad got me a 1968 Rustang, we made sheet metal plates and bolted them in for floor boards...and got a gunked up 351W, I cleaned and honed the cylinders and installed new rings and bearings...that was it...ran great..love watching your build, takes me back!😎👍
Hell yeah!! 😎🤘🏼
you get such a nice balance when you watch angel's and sarah's approaches in turn
As long as it specs out alright, don't let perfect be the enemy of good.
I like that saying!
The next time you assemble a block, dont use towels to clean the block. They can leave very fine fibers even if they're microfiber. But something that is very cheap and doesnt leave anything behind is coffee filters. Yes, coffee filters! It sounds freaking nuts. But its true! Have fun man! i cant wait to hear it run.
When I have an engine out of the car on a stand I like to install the camshaft first it allows you to guide it through the bearings with your hands without the crank in the way. Don't let the "I only build motors the right way" guys get to you. I've built many motors in the same fashion as this and never had a problem. The old timers would call this an overhaul.
Youre right!! I told myself to install the cam first but it ended up slipping my mind lol. Yes an overhaul would be a better term for this
Nice job Angel. I'm a bit behind, but I'm trying to get caught up on your videos after Sarah mentioned your channel. It's great that you still help her out from time to time. Another awesome channel.
I’m glad you pointed out the fact that during use with oil pressure, the crank is “floating” on a hydrodynamic wedge, old guys like me call it that anyway. The oil pressure keeps it from touching the bearing’s surface. The bearing is there for start up purposes. My father use to disconnect the coil wire on all his vehicles before startup and spin the engine a few revolutions with the key to get oil up to the main bearing surfaces. Starter speed allows oil to permeate the bearing surface/fill the void between crank and bearing surface a little before the engine cranks with spark. When that happens, the engine goes from start speed (revolutions) to idle very quickly. Like maybe 100 -120 rpm’s to 700-whatever idle rpm’s in a second or two. Probably not necessary to do every day but his hot rods might sit for a few days to maybe weeks. That means oil has seeped out of bearings, except for residual oil permeation of bearings. Anyways, I like your video so far and I just subscribed!
We are digging the budget build. It is far better to drive the car then to achieve perfection and not enjoy driving it. IMHO....YOLO!!!!
Very nice ! Showing the failure on your part just adds to the interesting parts of the whole build. I love that you used a Mustang II front suspension in it too. I owned a 76' Mustang II/Cobra II and would have never thought that suspension was good for any car as it wasn't so great in it's own anyway!
These engine rebuild videos have been great, Angel! I have seen so many videos where engines are rebuilt, but with the content you're putting out I can really get an understanding of what's going on. Keep up the great work, my dude.
Well done you for someone on a very tight budget you are trying to do the best job, making sure that it goes together all the way through. good job
Great attention to detail 👍👍
Thank you Bob!
Just so you know the first plastic gauge reading was 1-1/2 thousandths not 15 😎
Thank you! I knew i was saying it wrong 😂
These videos are getting better and better!! The lube comment... 🤣🤣🤣🤣
You know who would have polished those pistons so clean you could see your reflection in them.
In 6 months you will have warm soapy water in the shop. This is Tucson after all.
As explained to me by an experienced builder:
You don't want the bearings to spin.
Putting oil under them is counterproductive.
Also, before assembly lube was a common thing, my dad and I used STP.
Just for practice and the educational value, check the rod clearances.
When I rebuilt my 350, I had my rods reconditioned. That ever so slightly increased the clearance. Now it was ever so slightly wider than the max factory specs 😱
My machinist said, not to worry, it will just sling a tiny bit more oil.
Great job Angel! Your manner and level of explanation rivals many auto shop teachers! And mistakes happen, and it's what you take away from them is a bonus! Great save! Keep up the good work!
Whoa, congrats on 7k!
Thanks!!!
You probably don't have a dial indicator but checking end play on the crank is an important part of any rebuild, especially when wear is showing on the thrust bearing. Maybe you could add dial indicator to your wish list. Good luck on this project and on your channel. I'm enjoying this build! 😎👍🐎🏁🏁
Good job! She will run fine for many miles!
Nice work! In addition to being able to follow your video really well, I couldn't help but notice the effort you put into editing. I know this takes a ton of time and I wanted to let you know it wasn't going unnoticed. Dude, you're gonna hit 10k subs by this Summer, probably by June. :)
Thanks! Im sure out of all people you’d understand! This one took about 8hrs, ive toned down the editing a bit in order to accommodate the increased frequency. So thanks for noticing! Hopefully youre right about the 10k! Your channel has been growing fast, good work man!
That was nice! Almost like sitting in a mechanic class with a funny teacher. 😅
I'm with you cap'n
Great explanation on everything! Those ring compressors aren't my favorite style though.
Let the haters hate man. More comments for the algorithm. 😂😂😂
Awesome presents!
As someone else pointed out, you should check crankshaft endplay, especially since you were thinking the old one you took out was worn a lot. The crank should only be able to move from front to back of engine under so many thousandths of an inch based on specs for a specific engine 😎
Generally it’s a few thousandths.
Thank you!
nothing wrong with this assembly really. these older ones had very generous tolerances from factory. also it comes to a point where a fully machined block of this era would be more costly than a crate engine or a wrecker modern engine.
Yes, lubrication is important. My wife also agrees!! I think it's 17 ten thousandths, not 17 thousandths. 17 thousandths would be bigger than 2 thousandths. Right? I don't know....
😂😂
I bought an 87 5.0 LX notch when I was in high school, it smoked a little and had a ton of miles on it so I bought a rebuilt 5.0 to go in it. I decided it would be fun to blow up the old engine, so after trying to blow it up I broke the transmission instead. My point is the old 5.0 engine is tough as hell and will still run great without being perfect.
nice, quick, and dirty. How the OG's at the dragstrip used to do it.
Hello angel.
I know about you thru Sarahs channel, and found out you have your own, found you,and subscribed, great video my friend and congrats on the 7k followers, i pray you get your 10k fast. Love tge channel, God Bless brother
Angel food cake! You should have Sarah pimp your channel when you help her. If she has I’ve missed it.
Coming along really well.
Thank you!
Thanks for an interesting video. Very instructional with a nice conversational manner
I call this an overhaul, when you do all the necessary machine work then I call it a rebuild! I’m doing a 351 Windsor now that I’m putting into a 65 ranchero. I still haven’t settled on what I’m going to do for a transmission but it will definitely be an overdrive. Ii guess it would be considered a restomod.
Nice work mate.you have shown you can still build a engine with limited budget and tools.
Being mostly factory it will probably run ok.
😎🍺👍🇦🇺
13:27 Thank you for saying foot-pounds. (Reference-manual read style).
"...ask any mechanic, machinist, or wife." 😂
To help answer a question here. There is no need to replace a piston, unless it is physically damaged or the wrist pins are worn out. You can spend a ton of money on high performance parts but that defeats the budget build. It's not gong to blow up.
Well said!
You need to check the end clearance of the crankshaft. You need to put a dial indicator on the front or the rear of the crankshaft and see how much movement you have front to back.
I second that endplay needs to be checked , especially since Angel thought the thrust bearing he took out he assumed was worn a-lot. 😊
Thank you guys! I dont have a dial indicator either sooo thatll have to wait lol
$13 at HF and they have a magnetic base for $10.
Not fancy but I'll bet they are accurate.
No need for Starret or Mitutoyo
@@rookie__pilot
Bueno, Bueno, Bueno!
Gracias!
Did you say ask any wife? LOL. Subtle, funny. Cheers.
😂
Hooray! Good news for once! 😂
Nice one, Angel! I think you’re doing a great job demonstrating that you don’t need to spend up to do a good job. My jet ski build is the exact opposite, lol. New crankcases, bored cylinders, fresh crank, new pistons, new high compression head. I fell into the “while I’m in here, I might as well…” pit and smashed my wallet lol
“Might as well” haha i gotcha it happens to all of us 😂
I know I wanted to see the mootor cammed and built blahblah, but I am absolutely excited with how you're building it! The down and dirty get it done approach is badass, reminds me of the fun I used to have out in the driveway just putting toys together to enjoy! 2 enthusiastic thumbs up, bro!
Maybe we’ll do a cam in the future 😎
@@rookie__pilot nah man not in this motor, save the cam for the eventual 351 that you're gonna need!!
Nice work.
Thanks!
By the way, I caught the lube joke!😉
😂
I learned a few things. It`s also good practice the next time you have to do it. Onward!
Good video better than the one I made good detail 😂. Nice work rings do spin in the boar over time . Ring gap is the most important.
Nice they painted the lifter valley with Glyptal, gives better oil return. At the very least, they were attempting to do a good job it would seem. What kind of ignition are you planning on running - Pertronix or something of that nature? Intake, etc?
Probably the cheapest route lol, pertronix most likely. I want to do a edebrock rpm intake!
Piston and rod cap orientation is so critical. I've got a VQ30 with a giant hole in the side to prove it. BTW, it is truly a pants browning event when a rod breaks at 6,500 rpm.
Oh crap 😂😂
That plasty gauge thingy is pretty cool.
Right!
WD40 and paper towels work for cylinder cleaning
A very good job and Sarah has taught you well, you admit mistakes when you make them, this would make a good tutorial for someone doing it for the first time.
Nice explaining and great troubleshooting as you go. Think you will grow and become part of some library.
Hay man do what you got to do let them hate😊 and this is a great video 😅😂😊😊😊
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Great video.
Thanks!
Great job! It will run fine!
❤
right on cupcake. congrats 😅 little Sarah is as well❤
Wow - only 25 ft-lbs of torque for the rod bolts seems low, but apparently that is correct (for a non-Boss 302 motor - they are double that).
Excellent video man. Great real world content and great editing. I was thoroughly entertained. Keep it up!
Hell yeah thanks man🤘🏼
I like your low buck approach
You and my wife agree 😂
Outstanding Angel.
Thank you!
No oil under the bearings,wipe off the surface with brake cleaner where the bearings sit, any oil under the bearings might make them spin and you don't want that
I would say if you are pouring water into it It's half full and if you drink water from it it's half empty. And if you're not doing either, then it probably doesn't belong to you and you shouldn't touch it.
I like this 😂
Great videography and explanations. Just want to point your plastigauge interpretation. The slot between .002 (two thousands) and .001 (one thousands) is .0015 (or one and a half thousands) not fifteen thousands (which would be .015 not .0015. Spec for that block is anywhere from 1.5-2 thousands definitely not 17 thousands.
Thank you! Yes i didnt realize until it was too late lol 😂
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The main big. Rover sized the crank has been turned to 010 under size . Just saying.from Georgia the state not the country. Have a great day
Bro! Glad you taking a chance and doing it yourself, but what is the goal of this engine? Is it going in the mustang? Otherwise I saw the cylinders, they need bored for proper seal. It will run but wont last long...Ask for help, I'll send some stuff.. That block is a paper weight..
The goal for the engine is to get it running with the recourses available! We definitely welcome help, as our patreons and members of the scrapstang community have pitched so much to the progress weve made !
@@rookie__pilot I believe i have a new msd style distributor for a 302. Give me some info and i will send it over rover!
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One and a half thousands clearance on mains not 15 thousands
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Sooooooo........... why are you reusing the old pistons instead of buying new ones? EVERYONE STAND BACK!!! HE'S GOANNA BLOW!!!!😁😁😁
😂😂😂😂
Hi Mr cake
Hello Casper 👋🏻
Damn auto correct. The main brgs. Are over sized the crank shaft is under sized. You get the idea. Use plasta gage to check clearance or u mite turn a brg.on the first roll over. Just saying
So the machining conmunity ...mmm not all but most are opprtunistic thugs .. RP do it your self . Sarah paid 16,000 OMFG I tried ti get an engine rebuilt 9-10 months later seriously?? Your business is NOT viable if it takes that long ffs...
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