Razor-Sharp on a Budget: Lansky Deluxe Sharpening System Walkthrough and Tips!
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- čas přidán 8. 06. 2019
- Welcome, blade enthusiasts! 🔪 In this long-awaited video, I'm diving into one of my all-time favorites: the Lansky Deluxe Sharpening System. Join me as I walk you through the ins and outs of this incredible system, complete with a few must-have add-ons that elevate your sharpening game.
🌟 Why Lansky Deluxe? For $60, you're getting exceptional blade-sharpening capabilities. This video is the culmination of my desire to share the brilliance of this system with you, and you'll soon understand why it's my go-to choice.
⚠️ Note: This video is a bit longer than usual, but trust me, it's worth it! I'm taking you through a detailed, start-to-finish knife sharpening session using the Lansky Deluxe. Don't worry, I understand time is precious, so feel free to fast forward through specific sections.
This in-depth video is designed to equip you with the knowledge and confidence to master the Lansky Deluxe Sharpening System. Whether you're a seasoned blade enthusiast or just getting started, this video has something for everyone.
Hit the like button if you're a Lansky fan, share this with your fellow blade aficionados, and don't forget to subscribe for more in-depth reviews and tutorials. Let's keep those blades razor-sharp!
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Very informational! As a guy who is just starting with knife sharpening and chose the lansky system, this video was very helpful! Thanks a lot Dean, stay healty!
Thanks! You too!
Thanks for the encouragement! I was using the yellow ultra fine and I was thinking nothing was happening. I think that I'll try it again and trust the system and see if it ultimately works out.
I bought this set years ago and forgot about it, just unearthed it today and decided to give it a try. Thanks a ton of the video, it really helped. I wouldn't say my knives are razor sharp now, but I could shave some hair off my arm so I definitely put a better edge on them.
Great! Shaving hair off your arm is exactly as sharp as you need to go.
Great looking system, Works well too ! I have the Lansky stone Mounted on a wood base with the Lanksy Oil ! Just Love It ! Thanks Dean ! ATB T God Bless
Just got into knife collecting as well as using nicer ones for work. I am most definitely getting this system with extras. Cool video!
Thanks! It's a great system, and easier to use on big knives than a Worksharp.
Albertan here! great advice, and great information!
Thanks very much!
Just ordered the deluxe can't wait to try it out
Really
I was first introduced to this method of knife sharpener 1986 or 87 when I was in the Navy where we had a fascination with guns , knives, as well as auto firing canons. Useful interests when if your ship went down which at the time had a high probability of occurrence. Ceramic rod preset angle blocks with see through hand guards. Then this was introduced. Everyone carried a buck knife and I could but a lick on a blade but these where another dimension of convenience
I've had that kit since I was a lad. I actually took some metal brackets and a couple of pieces of wood and made a stencil that those stones slide into for sharpening swords, machetes, and larger blades etc. Great video as usual. Thanks!
You think you could show a picutre of it? cause ive wanted to know how you could sharpen machetes with it?
@@ahodaboda8710 pin.it/2WOvhP4
I took two metal brackets and bent them to the right angle so that the stone tucks into the peice of 2x4 then drilled a whole so the metal guide would push through and lock it in place
pin.it/19eOL46
@@trakeC alright cool thanks
I like that it gives you the vertical/perpendicular grinds on the blade (like the original edge) and doesn't give the horizontal/parallel grooves along the length of the blade like a lot of the cheap knife sharpeners give. From watching other videos, it appears that the horizontal/parallel grooves cause the blade to dull much faster while the perpendicular grooves help the blade retain its sharpness (and can be revived with a strop without having to constantly resharpen).
I noticed that as well. And those grooves also catch a lot of debris and that is likely one of the reasons they dull quicker. Also, at coarser grits those little micro-serrations actually make cutting more difficult. Leonard Lee actually went into that in great detail in his excellent book on sharpening.
Yeah it took me quite a few years to work up to the system. Having initially tried it decades ago. I've gradually evolved from Arkansas stones which are at the Pinnacle of hand sharpening. I then tried the ceramic rod and diamond rod holders and then now this sharpener and for sure the pinnacle. But I found the price a bit hard to swallow for the five-piece set. However, I more than have absorbed the cost and the sharpener has paid for itself many times over every time I slice a, bell pepper, give slight sigh and I appreciate My expensive knives that much more after all. What good is a knife if it's dull?
Great video. Thank you for making it.
My Lansky kit must not be a deluxe kit because my kit doesn't have as many stones as yours but the Lansky system works great. It was great to see you bud.
Thanks, James! There are a few other kits with 3 and 4 stones, but if I had one of those I'd add the finer-grit stones and a strop. With the deluxe kit I wish there were two more slots for the Super Sapphire hone and the strop, in fact. But yes, it's a fantastic kit for a good price.
Great video‼️👍
While this thing isn't necessary it is truly amazing.
I plan to get one cheap and used in good condition.
Great vid.man. looks cool
Great video
Great video. I been using this system about ten years. The blade is only supposed to be a 1/2” -5/8” out of the clamp. Also honing oil is just for cleaning the stones.
Also make sure you check for a burr with every stone and side you switch too. No burr it won’t get sharp.
Hey Glad i found your channel , im also an Albertan! , subbed my friend ! Edmonton area myself
EastMan 👋
When you clamp the knife the blade gap on the clamp needs to be equal at the front and back clamp .
Ralph
i've been using my lansky for 25 years i've got used to setting it up and holding the knife by the handle thus iliminating the need for a vice or a bench works great no wabbling
Good advice! I now use a stump vise. Meaning I screwed an old vise to a big chunk of birch. 😁😁
Thank you very much informative
You're welcome!
Also and important tip is when you connect the rods to stone lay the stone and rod flat on a flat surface to make sure stone and rod are prefectly straight
He showed that tip
@@wadeworkman7142 oops!
@@johnnyboy1586 Where are you From ? 🧐
Lansky is a great way to go. My 3-stone Lansky kit is over 15 years old and produces a nice sharp edge. For $25 back then, it’s a mystery to me why anyone needs to spend hundreds of dollars on some systems. And, yes, buy the bench clamp.
I'd say "buy two", as I seem to have gone through this one over the years. It looks a bit wobbly in the video but that doesn't affect the stone's angle at all.
I have a lansky kit well over 30yrs old It was my dad's sold my gifted smith's from wife. If I want a good edge without a lot of trouble I use it. Works everytime
I found a trick to clean the Lansky Stones. Use a vinyl pencil eraser. From the 280 on up to and including the leather strops. I clean about every other time I sharpen. Super Sapphire is 2000 grit. I suggest 2 leather strops... one for green 2500 grit and one for red 4000 grit.
Great tip!
Thanks fir sharing my friend. New subscriber full watch. 😊
Thanks
thanks for the video. I just wonder if there's something less flimsy and more stable in the market for sharpening. This kit is expensive but I can't picture myself using it without the risk of cutting myself.
Actually, if you replace that pedestal stand and clamp the main unit in a vise it's very stable.
If you use your index finger to push up on the guide rod it’ll keep it from flopping around in the degree hole. It keeps the angle the same.
It's a very good system has some flaws but nothing you can't work past with use and practice. I find this the best option. Better then belt sanding your blade away and also because you get feed back while your sharpening preventing a ton of damage while feeling what the stones are doing. I'm about to break mine out to sharpen my wife's and mine edc along with her hunting knife.
@@mikerayle6103 Rayle 👋
can uo switc angles on oposite side of blades.
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm czcams.com/users/postUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
Hi. Do you have another channel where you do bushcraft or camping or cooking stuff? I've watched 115 videos and have only seen gear reviews, no fires built, and only a single steak grilled.
I'm wondering if you have any videos showing us how you do this in the field?
I've got only this channel for bushcraft, and my entire shooting schedule for 2019 has been put on hold because of a number of big issues with renovations to my home, and with access to the land I was planning to shoot my field videos on. I'm working on new locations, because the new buyer of that land fenced it off and has been very aggressive with enforcing his "no trespassing ever" rule - as in folks have gone to jail. I'd like to say that 2020 will bring more field videos as I've scripts for a few dozen topics, but we'll have to see how things shake out.
Now I know you said you're just reading instructions. I was curious if youd do a video on something like this vs a whetstone or sharpening stone? Maybe a video on the slightly contoured blade that a stone leaves vs a more equilateral angle one of these cuts into the blade?
Well, I have a few other videos in the pipe right now, but down the road a ways I'm planning to do one on my Japanese water stones. They're great too.
@@AlbertaBushcrafter im honestly excited to see it
@@Americanmade1997 hi 👋
Dean, where and when did you pick up your kit? What price? Thank you.
I bought mine at Wholesale Sports a few years ago, but that store chain went bankrupt over 1 1/2 years ago. So I checked on Amazon.ca and this kit is available for about $60 or so.
Where did you get the clamp from? I’ve been reading a lot of bad reviews for it on Amazon, saying the threads don’t line up properly, it attaches floppy, etc. Did you have any issues with it when you got it? I ordered this same kit for my boyfriend but didn’t realize the mount didn’t come with!
That's the standard clamp that comes with all Lansky kits. The stand is an add on from Lansky as well. And yes, after a lot of use, it gets wobbly but thats exaggerated by a) the closeup shot and b) my neurological disorders and arthritis.
I've never used guides for sharpening, but I'm looking into getting a sharpening something or other, these look nice but after years and years of just using stones to a mirror polish I'm skeptical.
My ultimate preference is to still use a water stone, but this kit usually does a good job. I do use a Veritas guide in my shop for my chisels and plane blades, but it would take a bit of adapting to work on knives.
I need this stuff looks like 300ish for all the stuff diamond deluxe clamp sap and leather but I have to keep my knifes sharp for field dressing!
If i don't have the yellow xfine stone but have the sapphire hone instead would that work as well ..
Actually, the sapphire hone is the next step up from the yellow x-fine stone, so you'd be skipping a step, and that may not work. Usually if you skip a stone in any sharpening process, it means you have to do a lot more work with the stone after that. You can try the sapphire stone after the fine stone (skipping the yellow one) but you will definitely have to do a lot more strokes with the sapphire hone. And since the yellow x-fine stone is about $10-15 on Amazon, it may be better just to get that stone.
Sir, you can also use the white pencil erasers. I recommend the 5 pack for like under $2.00 or less.
Filing the red top screw's bottom flat will increase its effectiveness.
That's a good idea.
How do you know where to put the blade back into the clamp after setting your angle? I just got this system and my first knife didn't come out sharp so I've got to redo it but I don't want to have to use the coarse stones to reprofile it again.
First, I have to say that I have no problem reprofiling a blade. I use Moras and Hultafors knives mainly and they're about 22 degrees, so I rework the edge to 20 degrees for fine work and 25 degrees for heavy work. So I reprofile most of my blades right out of the box as they're inexpensive and it saves a lot of messing around later.
But to keep the factory angle, I set it to the closest setting that's less than that angle and then just move the blade in or out till the stone touches the edge and not the whole bevel. Then I mark that setting with a Sharpie - and remove that mark with rubbing alcohol when I'm done.
If it's for rougher work, I set it to 25 degrees instead, which creates a micro-bevel that still works well but that will eventually reprofile the blade anyway as you said.
If you really want to match the factory edge on a Mora, you could drill another hole exactly halfway between the 20 and 25 degree holes to get 22.5 degrees. That won't wreck the guide, and it will also ensure the stone will lay flat along the entire bevel. The same would apply for other knives. And the guides are about $10-15, so they're not expensive to replace. That's the only way I know to get it exact without reshaping the blade.
@@AlbertaBushcrafter i tried it again at 25 and it came out a lot better. Still not as sharp as I'd like but for my second time using the sharpener. I was using the extra coarse diamond so that sped up the reprofiling then I used the standard extra coarse. There really is no comparison between the two, the diamond takes off way more metal.
@@k1z3r__25 The diamond stones are very fast and can be quite aggressive too, but they're worth the price. I plan to pick up a few this year, and a few other specialty hones. I think I'll get a new guide as well as you can see it was a bit wobbly.
Centre the blade of the knife in the clamp. Make sure the guide rod is in line with the stone. Will work much better.
Hi Dan
You don’t have to use oil on diamond stones. It’s explicitly written in the instructions
Hi. Will this work effectively with blades 30 cm long?
Yes, with a bit of work. I use mine on my Kershaw Camp 12 and all I do is sharpen one part of the blade, then move the guide further down the blade and sharpen the rest. Just be careful not to overlap the strokes too much and it works fine.
Is it possible to sharpen straight blades with this as well, e.g. chinese cleavers and alike?
It works, but you have to keep repositioning the guide to get the whole blade. That can be a little bit tricky. I've used this on a 10-inch camping blade, and it worked well.
Do the clamps open wide enough to hold a large meat clever?
I've used it on a machete and tried it on a meat cleaver - a big Chinese one. This clamp will mount on a meat cleaver, but I the sharpening angles can be fairly narrow. Plus, with longer blades you need to keep moving the clamp down the blade and sharpen a little bit at a time.
I’m going to build a table clamp and my sharpening kit hasn’t arrived yet. What is the diameter of that table clamp post? Trying to do this on the cheap. Thanks!
I checked with my digital calipers several times, and it averaged out to 9.66 mm / 0.380 inches. Hope that helps, as I think a person can build a better DIY clamp than the one Lansky makes.
Alberta Bushcrafter that’s exactly my plan! Thank you so much for your help!!
@@bigriceburner Hi 👋
I have never had any luck with this system.
Since I shot this video I've gotten better at it, but it takes practice. Mostly because I clamped it in a real vise instead of that table vise.
Has anyone managed to make fine and extra fine hones for curved blades work? These two are kinda sketchy and I'm wondering, what's the trick to those 🤔
I haven't picked those up yet, but I'll record something when I do.
Hi. What is the make and model of the hat you are wearing?
Cheers.
That is a Henschel Breezer. You'll have to check the Henschel Hats site, though, because about 18 months ago they rebranded all of their hats.
@@AlbertaBushcrafter Thanks for the info. Cheers.
put tape on the clamp to protect the finish on the knife
Good idea.
So if my knives mash the onion instead of cut them, that would qualify for re profiling?
Reprofiling? Not unless there are some serious dents and nicks in the blade. But resharpening? Yes. In fact I have to sharpen a few kitchen knives now - thanks for the reminder.
i just got the simplier diamond set, tried it on a cheap knife first(dollar store cheap) and it worked, but not great, but it seemed safe enough to try it on a good knife, not quite but close to shaving sharp with not much effort
i can get just as sharp with a flat stone, but this takes no skill and has way more consistancy
Did you get the Sapphire stone and the stropping hone? Those are the two that make a big difference. Plus, if you charge the hone with a bit of green polishing compound it works even better.
@@AlbertaBushcrafter i got the coarse diamond kit, as it was on clearance on amazon, with the intent to use it to basically recondition old knives, for what i wanted it for its great,
its listed as the finest stone as 600 grit, but it feels way finer then that
@@mageac That may be because it's a diamond hone. The grits in the diamond set are 70, 120, 280 and 600, while the grits in the deluxe stone kit are the same but add an ultra-fine stone at 1000 grit and I don't see the equivalent 1000-grit diamond stone.
Skipping from the 600 to the Sapphire stone at 2000 grit might not be a good idea as you're really skipping a grit. The 600 should be pretty good, but to go any higher you'd likely beed to get the 1000-grit ceramic, followed by the 2000-grit sapphire, then the strop. While it does't show in the video too well (so I might reshoot it...) the sapphire hone is really great.
@@AlbertaBushcrafter the one i got has 3 stones, the amazon item called it the standard coarse sharpening system with fine hones, the picture was of standard stones but the description was the diamond set, when it came it was the diamond
Shucks Now I gotta get the vice thingy.
Actually, that little pedestal mount is a headache. I bolted an old vice on a hunk of wood to make it easier to carry around the yard, and clamping the guide in that vise works a whole lot better.
@@AlbertaBushcrafter thank you for that tip. That's probably what I'll do. May I ask where you purchase your stand?
Should it be wobbling about like that? Surely you can't get an even angle along the blade if the knife is moving around.
I'd stick it in a vise rather than on the end out that clamp for consistency and, more importantly, safety. It's really janky having it wobbling around like that, and it seems like it would be easy for it to slip and end up cutting you.
@@Thomas5937 trust me it looks worse than it actually is. I have that sharpening system and it works just fine wobbles and all with no fear of cutting myself.
Looks like the red knob gets in the way of the 17 degree guide rod hole.
Depending on the width of the blade, yes it can at times. You can substitute a shorter screw and turn it with a screwdriver, though.
Alberta Bushcrafter Thank you
17 for me for most my pocket knife
33.5 for my MORA knives. And of course there is no 22.5 degree setting. But you're right on for the pocket knife angle - it's ideal for my pocket knives and multitool knives.
did you try testing knives on your arm? (judging by the scars)
No - those were from rope burns I got while taking down several huge trees in my yard. Scars are gone now, though.
Nice system, just wish it was made to tighter tolerances, its very wobbly and needs to be held / supported, wouldn't expect to have to do that.
Well, most of the time I use it without the stand, and it's easier that way. But yes, after a lot of use the diameter of the hole increases, or the rod on the stand wears away. Either way, it can get wobbly. I know a few people who clamp it in a vise, but that can be awkward too at times.
I can't believe it doesn't come with a stand of some kind
It does, but it's just a single pin that goes through the knife clamp and that's why it looks wobbly. I've since switched out that stand for an actual vise, and that works great.
Can get same (and better) result with any cheap 600 stone and a leather belt. Especially on carbon mora
Or you could get a pair of pocket Japanese water stones too (I have a 1000 and 6000 grit set). You could buy a Worksharp, for that matter. There are lots of ways to sharpen a knife. This is only one of them, so whatever floats your canoe.
@@AlbertaBushcrafter not trying to step on your toes promoting expensive gadgets, but the point i am trying to make is you don't need to spend well north of a $100 to sharpen a knife to the same level you show in this review...
@@Aleval1512 And it's a valid point, at that. In fact, you can make a very effective sharpening system using varying grades of sandpaper (or better yet, the 3M mylar film abrasives), some plywood, and some permanent spray adhesive and still come in under $30. And it's way lighter too.
true if you are good with those stones. no matter how often I practice I just can't get the right angle and feel of sharpening this way. the lansky set works great for the rest of us
I can get my knives to shave with the 600 grit and a strop
My water stones are 1000 and 6000 grit, and they're a good alternative. That plus a strop will get a blade sharp enough to shave with.
That vice is very wobbly on that stand. It doesn't seem safe
Actually, its safer than it looks in the closeupshot as those magnify motion. But lately I've been clamping it in a bench vise instead. The metal post on that stand is on the soft side so it can wear out a bit, but it's actually hardly even noticeable. The camera magnifies everything out of proportion in the closeup shots.
Hmmm...I've been looking at many sharpening systems and every person has one thing in common: chewed up finger nails..my nails are chewed up too but it's from restoring straight razors. So I like the price, I like the concept but what I don't like are how awkward the system appears. I'd like for it to be entirely stationary, The other things is how the spine of the blade is clamped in. Seems it could slip or give you the impression it could slip which is very distracting. Not sure how I would make modifications to the Lansky so I think I'll pass. I would lap the stones periodically. Great demo..
I feel like the lanskys fixed guides create a micro bevel on scandis
They may. But honestly, in woodworking we often put a microbevel on our chisels and planes. This is a common practice as it improves the cutting edge considerably. In fact, my Veritas sharpening guide that I use on my plane and chisel blades has a specific feature that allows us to add a microbevel if one isn't there.
So I've heard a lot of people complain about microbevels, but no one has bothered to explain why they are "bad". They certainly aren't considered "bad" in woodworking, so I don't see why they are such a fright in bushcraft. Prove me wrong.
@@AlbertaBushcrafter I think its more a matter of preference. Some say the microbevel creates "drag," on a scandi, and that the traditional scandi, while not as structurally robust or dominant at battoning, is better at feather sticking and other finer cutting task, at least according to the gurus, I think its a lot more then that, but im a know nothing.
@@AlbertaBushcrafter I also didn't consider that stopping a scandi on leather seems to lead to a gradual convexing of the blade, and some prefer that even. Many companies, I think it started with bark river, have started to use been being called a scandivex, seems to have some properties of both worlds it seems.
@@codymarkley8372 I think the gurus may have it wrong because a lot of them easily confuse a microbevel with the rounding of a blade. They're absolutely two different things. For batonning, even across the grain a microbevel won't make a difference but rounding the blade certainly will. And microbevels on planes and similar tools are championed by many woodworkers as cutting more accurately with less tearout, so since making a feather stick is very similar to a planing cut, I just can't see how a microbevel would harm such a cut.
As for stropping, it depends on whether you use abrasive on the strop or not. I've used abrasives on several strops and yes, they can round over a blade, but usually that means it's time to sharpen it anyway. With straight leather it takes a lot longer for that to happen, and from my experience by the time the blade is rounded over it's already well past the time I need to sharpen it anyway.
@@AlbertaBushcrafter thank you for your knowledge and willingness to respond. I have been looking to get a mora for my first 1095 hc, and I dont have any bushcrafting knives. From what I've seen though,any have complained that the saberesque grind on the garberg left some feeling it underperformed when compared to other more ready out of box scandi blades, any information to help if this problem is true would be immensely appreciated.
Doesn’t the instructions say not to sharpen towards the table? (The direction you were going- blade to table.). But instead are supposed to sharpen pulling the stone towards yourself on the blade.
Actually, the directoins say you can use the sharpening stone in either direction. But there is one exception: the leather stropping hone. That particular item needs to be pullled away from the blade at all times or it gets cut to pieces in almost no time at all.
I clamp mine in a drill press vise
Blackburn
Can you sharpen an axe with this
I haven't had very good luck with that, but it's possible with thinner heads like tomahawks and certain hatchets. I haven't had any luck with regular axes, but Lansky makes a great double-sided stone called The Puck for those (and it's only about $8 too).
6:00 You have the knife edge way too far out of the clamp. Sharpening well under 20'
Ramblequist there are little notches that hold the knife at that point.
Survival Showcase The angle does change based on how far the edge is from the clamp. It’s only a 1° or 2° difference, but it does change based on distance.
@@TreyBattles5150 now look who's splitting hairs
@@TreyBattles5150 it does not. The distance change. The angle does not.
Shouldn't use oil on the ceramic hone
Good point, even though Lansky support said it wouldn't be an issue. But actually it doesn't matter now anyway. I bought a new set of these stones and have been using them all with water instead of oil now.
That paper cut was ugly... 😂
Is this still your favorite sharpener
Yes it sure is for detail work. Especially since I replaced the wobbly pedestal stand with a table vise.
Awesome i went ahead and ordered one for myself and had already planned on using a vise to hold it! Thank you for responding!! If i had another question it woumd be what stones have you had to replace over time?
@@cavelvlan25 Actually, the strop is the first one I had to replace as I gouged it accidentally. But it's the Fine and Extra Fine stones that I've worn out and had to replace.
Lol second time i used the strop i caught my blade! Thanks for the info, i had it in my head my coarse stones woukd be the first to go always seem to find older ones laying around and they are gouged. Anyways thanks for the time I appreciate you
@@cavelvlan25 Thanks very much!
11:29 AAAAAH
Where are you from ?
Soap and water work best
Very instructional, and I learned something. But Dude, please - when you do close-up shots on your hands, please make sure your nails are trimmed and clean. Daaaiimm..... o_O
This is an outdoor channel and this video was filmed outdoors as well, so you can expect a bit of grime. And that particular grime is metal filings from the knife, mixed with honing oil, so it's proof I was actually sharpening the blade.
I think maybe that knife needs a bit more time.
You're right. I think I mentioned in the video that it was more of a demonstration than a full sharpening. If it were the latter, I'd have spent twice the time on it.
I don’t see Lansky good for scandi. You are creating a secondary bevel, which you don’t want to do for a scandi.
And exactly where does it say that? Secondary bevels are a very welcome feature on woodwoorking tools like planes and chisels. In fact, some of the best honing guides have a feature that allows you to create such a bevel. No one has ever pointed out successfully why this would be a problem on Mora knives, so if you've got more information, please share.
@@AlbertaBushcrafter I understand that. It is maybe easier (would say quicker) to sharp a secondary bevel but one of the great things about scandi grinds is that they are so easy to sharp with stones. They would even get a sort of scandi-convex grind which is great for wood cutting. From my humble point of view, I just wanted to share that Lansky is great for sharpening knives that already have secondary bevels. Would you kill a convex Bark-River knife with a secondary bevel? I would not.
@@Eskorpion74 Good point. My only sharpening tool for many years was a pair of pocket water stones (1000 and 8000 grit) and a leather belt for a strop, and that was all you needed for any knife with a Scandi grind. Especially Mora knives, which is all I've had till recently. And you can drill holes in the guide for the Lansky to accommodate other angles, but I wish they'd add more angles themselves - like a 22-degree or a 17-degree - because drilling those holes is very fussy.
@@AlbertaBushcrafter it does have 17 degree on it. the bottom hole is 17
that voice tho
Here's an update. I've replaced that wobbly pin stand with a table vise. So no need to comment about that - its fixed.
And for all the trolls, armchair quarterbacks and self-described "experts" out there: no, this sharpening jig won't round off an edge. The stones and guide rods are so stiff that they can't flex. And that makes it physically impossible to round off an edge.
Yay science, bozo!
I think the rounding theyre talking about is the secondary bevel on your scandi
@@rilofulton Right. And if the stone stays in the same plane, it can't overlap the edge to round over anything. The guide rod keeps the stone in line. Now if you were freehanding it, you could round it over.
Didnt seem to be too sharp, struggled to cut paper, that mount system is terrible, very unstable, i just clamp mine into my work bench vice.
It only looks unstable. My degenerative arthritis is what makes it look like that but the clamp is fine. And that arthritis is also why everything looks a bit shaky including the paper cuts. Keep in mind his was a demonstration as I said several times in the video, and that I'd take a lot longer if I was putting a really keen edge on it.
Yeah, the paper was a pretty emabrrasing test.. I can't get a very good edge free handing a knife and I can slice paper with ease.. Should have left the paper test out.. As far as I'm concerned with this video the system is garbage.. Between the lack of stableness and the shit edge.. Not buying
@@AlbertaBushcrafter Watch the video from Gough Custom on how to use this sharpener. I've had mine for 20 years and never really liked the way it sharpened until I watched his video recently.
@@XaQtionerBIGZ1 Will do!
@@AlbertaBushcrafter take serrapeptase for your arthritis... I've been taking it 3 weeks and it's worked wonders for me.
Looks really awkward to use
I bought one and have used it 4 times. I give it a 0/5 Can i give it a negative number? Pure junk
Cousins
@@lauramcelhiney huh?🤔
@@tylercousins7779 Where are you from ?
@@lauramcelhiney why?
I bought my Lansky kit like 28 years ago. I hated it then and watching this video reminds me that I still hate it now. 😂 Stupid bendy rods that always come loose in the stone clamp and the stupid clamp you have to keep moving along the blade if you actually want a consistent bevel across your knife and the angle holes which are so big the bendy rods wobble around inside. It's such a fussy, poorly-implemented system. Learn to sharpen on a flat stone. Done.
The flex in the rods is a valid point. But a good set of large stones of any decent quality is going to set you back well over $200 if you want more than a couple grits. (Mine are Norton, and they cost that much for 4)
But having said that, you can get an excellent pair of Japanese pocket stones (1000 and 6000 grit)in the $60 range, and the green stropping compound can be found at $15 for enough to coat an old belt for several years. That's how I sharpened my knives for many years and it works fine.
@@AlbertaBushcrafter Granted. Stones are expensive, and I've spent well over $200 on sharpening toys over the past three decades. Lansky still sucks, though.. 😅
The whole thing looks wobbly, unstable and very awkward to use. The clamp does absolutely nothing to stabilise anything and it doesn’t even come with the kit. Pass on this system
With one exception: if you skip the table clamp and then clamp the rest of the assembly in a vise, it's rock solid. I agree with you that the table clamp/stand is the weak point in this assembly, so I've moved on to a vise for clamping the assembly and it works much better.
Спасибо за видео. Теперь никогда это гавнище не куплю
It’s absolutely rubbish. Iv been sharpening my pm2 for 30 minutes and it’s not even got a burr
Sorry. Looks a bit clumsy to me. There must be a better way to sharpen your knives.
The sharpening guide is fine - it's just that table clamp. I've switched to clamping the guide in a vise and it works much better.
masakr facet nie ma pojęcia o ostrzeniu noży......
That shit ain't sharp
This setup seems awful wobbly. That C-clamp setup looks flimsy. Shaking more than a Chihuahua passing a razor blade.
Hi Charles
Do Not use that on a Scandinavian grind...
Nonsense. I have 20 blades with Scandi grinds and this sharpener works great on all of them.
It will sharpen any scandi grind but it won't have the same exact angle which will create a micro bevel. In my experience you would be better off with a flat or sabor grind rather then a scandi with a micro bevel
This is painful to watch.