HANDMADE JIG From Scrap Metal | Drops 1928 - '48 FORD Axles! IT WORKED!
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2023
- On this episode we fabricate a complete jig to house early Ford I-Beam axles from 1928-48. The frame will help hold the axle while we use heat and a press to drop these in several heights to lower the front of your Hotrod. An age old practice used for many decades, stemming back to the early 1940s. Come along and watch the trails and tribulations while we try and drop some Axles.
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Hy love what your doing I'm 67 years old and have built a lot off things and was told a secret is not secret when your dead its a lost art and teach as many people my stuff as I can so teach as many people as can and learn as much as you can and pass it on so we don't end up with pyramids and wish we new how it was done
That’s a great way of getting your point across
Thank you Rodney that’s very well said!
Your channel is growing Jordan...it's because of content like this. Well done.
Thank you Eric. Means a lot
The theory of dropping of the axle should be free flowing between old car guys. The Design should be given to everyone interested. All tricks should be written down for the next person. My Dad did this in 1964.
I believe the more knowledge you can spread will keep hotrodding alive
Can’t agree more
Hey Lisette. When I was in Alaska a few years ago I had the privilege of seeing 2 moose in the wild and I couldn't believe the size of them, glad your safe, enjoyed the video.....Ralph
Excellent start to doing it Jordan Part Two should be good
Looking forward to a part 2. Love this kind of tech.
Trick I learned from one of your countrymen, when lighting a rosebud lay it on a flat surface like the I beam and strike the spark, it lights first time!
Me and those rosebud tips never get along haha
Fantastic educational video. Thank you.
Time to reconfigure that old press👍👍😃😁🇦🇺
I think so!
You are a legend my friend! Awesomeness!
You’re a champ
Fire brick “ envelope “ . I worked as a front end mechanic back in the early 70s, we routinely bent axles to align front wheels for diesel trucks. 50 tons works wonders even cold. Definitely turn some good steel for imitation king pins- with an end that you can lever the damn thing out with 😂
Finished product looks awesome 👍
I think everybody around a straight axle has wanted to do this, but few actually try. Well done sir!
Thanks homie! Been a long time coming. Finally! Was a blast too do. Definitely hooked on doing a lot more
Hey Jordan, enjoyed the video.....great music also....Ralph
Thank you Ralph!
Love how it quickly turned into some Rube Goldberg contraption! Just need the assembly line music, a hamster wheel, and an alarm clock, for that overtly complicated fresh morning omelet.
Oh man, this was epic goodness! I have read about this process and the various ways it can be accomplished. Awesome, awe inspiring approach to the craft. Loved the lead in explanation of the why and how. Well done. And thank you! Go Bennetts Customs, keep moving forward! Seriously, you and Karl (Japhands) , and Iron Trap are putting out the best car content videos! Thank you!
Thank you Murdoc! Means a great deal! Hope you are enjoying all the videos. Always been a great supporter
You may want to get some bar stock, like 2" square bar, drill king pin holes. And a mounting holes to practice with. maybe weld on the king pin ends on 1x2" bar, and make some two layer heat shields. 18-20 gauge alum with a 3mm spacer between them with a heat resistant cloth or insulation behind it.
you need one of those ring torch heads for brazing copper pipe, would make heating that a cinch
👏👏👏👏
Ben drinks a lot of coffee 😂
He loves it!
Great video! Tex Smith had some great info on the Mor-Drops, Dagos, Super Bells, etc. in his How to Build Real Hot Rods book. I was thinking maybe we read the same book! Thanks for all of the information you share. It makes all us better fabricators!
great video! thanks for sharing that history!
Awesome work.
Fascinating process, Jordan! Lots of encouraging comments here, too. Looking forward to next installment, and to hearing what you've learned from this first part- especially on the binding kingpin
Thanks Tom! Part two coming in hotter than this axle
Very nice job. Hopefully you will get great use out of it for many years to come my friend. Can't wait to see more updates an projects and many more videos soon my friends. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Making. God bless.
Great job and great video all round, you know it's a good one when it's over an hour long and ya just want more! awesome and looking forward to p2.
Thanks mate! Part 2 coming in hot!
That was great. Waiting to see you do, whatever, to the other end of that axle.
I also subscribe to Lee at LG; his stuff's always interesting, too.
Thanks Brent! Yeah Lee is top notch!
Great stuff Jordan, looking foreward to the next one.
Thanks Paul!
Awesome!!
That went really well! For your first one it turned great! Good job Jordan! Take care!
Hey Jordan as a suggestion to help protect the cylinder of the press use a solid spacer between it to absorb most off the heat
Yup it definitely helped a bit forsure! A few more heat shields should help too.
And maybe a 'loose enough', tube sleeve, around the ram, as it descends, to deflect/absorb the heat?
Sorry mate I added this comment before I got to the end of vid , you know what your doing , love your work keep them coming ,cheers
Nice. Thanks for explaining the difference between the early ford axles, cool video!
You put out some great videos man, this is one of your best.
Glad you think so Michael!
You could make the shims bolt on (stud would we nicer so you arent fishing for the hole everytime. you could make a base shim that includes the square guidebars
also that was very satisfying to watch the bend
Not a bad idea Jere!
Lots learned. I enjoy engineering on the run. Good Job.
Yes very interesting Jordan, do the other end like toffy might turn out to be a 6in drop 😆 👍
Rather than trying to keep the heat away from the press ram, make an extension for the ram to move the axle (and heat) lower and away from the ram? (typed that before I ran out the door for work, before the end of the video. ) Also, when you make the new 'kingpin', add a thread section on top so you can use a hollow porta-power ram to pull it out.
Excellent video as always, great that you share these things. No doubt you have this covered, but it surprised me that the 10mm plate that holds the king pin supports is so lightly welded to the upright beam. Maybe a big plug weld through that plate right in between the king pin supports, might stop some flexing that could have increased the difficulty of removing the king pin. Which might get worse after a few uses.
Definitely a good call !! Thanks Bernard
Pomona Swapmeet is in a few weeks, Couldnt wait for a Nice Use Axle...🤪🤣🤣🤣🤣
Just send them to west aus thanks 🙏🏽
Amazing work I am looking forward to seeing how much drop you can get on the other end of that axle and also a finished axle for the roadster. keep up the great videos.
Nicely done. I would not drop 37 to 48 axles unless the customer plans to use an intact wishbone.
Most definitely!
G'day mate, has the heat, shrunk the holes in the bosses, just a thought. Hooroo se ya later
Definitely possible! I used a bit of heat to pull the pin recently made and it helped
Thanks fo your time and effort give us these educational and entertaining video's. Just wondering if a induction heater would be a good way for heating the axle?
It’s possible if you had something that could hear it up in position
Id suggest a top set of rollers to the jig, then have the press end a sleave of the ram connected to a spacer to get the ram away from the heat and on the end if the spacer a pin that goes through the radius rod hole this then would hold the axle square as it comes down keeping track and radius rods square stretching the drop
Dago is old slang for the region about "San Diego".
That’s right!
hi i would use some ram extensions and guide for ext to get the heat away from the ram oil seals ect did you try a bit of heat to get that stuck pin out
Part two I try and create some heat shields and spacers to get away from the heat. It helped forsure
Отличное пособие.
Would you be able to heat it up with a induction torch?
Nice Video.
#STAYSAFE
#PHILLYPHILLY🇺🇸
Thanks again Dennis
Hi did the hot rodders in the usa ever use Bellamy or Bowdon independent front suspension.All the best peter
Those are essentially half I beam axles with pivots (balls) on the opposite ends to the kingpin ends and allow a degree of independent wheel hub movement, right? British 'off-road' Guys used these for trail driving and still do, when they can be found, or homemade!
Very Good!... #99 ✝ {12-3-2023}
Have you thought about building an induction heater for this?
I’m not sure it would work. But possible? I need to keep the heat away from the kingpin and spring perch Boss
@@bennettscustomsco I believe it would work for this, they only heat around their position. It would also keep any heat away from your hydraulic cylinder.
Why not cast a few axels a large mold could
Fit between 2 and 4 axels , make any drop you want, beef them up a bit. Keeping looking stock as possible. You can build a furnace yourself. Make some molds, get sand, plaster foam so you can do the lost foam casting, then make a axel from foam . Coat the foam axel in plaster. it will have better details than a sand only cast. Using plaster the sand only supports the plaster, make it from cast steel, cast iron, cast aluminum. Move details anywhere you want you canstart a small business. A small backyard foundry can make money. Use wast oil and recycle brake rotors , aluminum wheels cast engine parts from the junk yard, cast parts can be recast easily, they are alloys designed to cast well. Use steel scrap bits from a machine shop hot rolled scrap with a bit of better quality steel isnt going to hurt. Waste oil and a leaf blower can melt about anything. If you need. Add some o2 to the mix..
Coloca a legenda em português, obrigado.
What did the old timers do, heat it up & jump on it? 😅
Very interested in your work . What city are you in ?
South of Perth
Nice want to drop one for me?
well done, I enjoyed that vid, but you used up all your i beams you saved for your gantry! I beam expensive terrible!
I’ll find some more! Haha
Urban Dictionary.....
Robusk
When you so country you cant say robust.
That buggered up shaker of a grand prix is quite robusk, gotta admit.
Those husks are quite robusk
@@bennettscustomsco 🤣
Use a microwave transformer and make an induction coil, stop wasting fuel.
USING SATAN IN YOUR THUMBNAIL!??? Just say the lyrics I'm shocked and it's not appreciated.
bloody hell.. Cant win
Hahahahahaha you clown
He’s the heat to our axles.
I have a good idea i think for a jig, where can i send some pics of my idea i can sketch it out for you.
Fire them through! Info@bennettscustoms.com.au
I love the journey of ideas in development. Thanks for sharing.
My two cents: hydraulic heat isolation.More heat,more even heat and greater pressure.
I have a little exposure to induction heating in the foundry.Very fast and even.Possibly make some type of refractory clamshell around the heated portion of the axle containing the induction components.But that’s probably better saved for iteration 2.0 as flame heating is sufficient for now.
Will be following. Thanks