When To Buy A New Regulator - Scuba Tech Tips: S05E12
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- čas přidán 5. 06. 2017
- Divers love buying shiny new gear but a few delay replacing an old favourite regulator too long. Alec shows key wear points to inspect in older regulators before they become a safety risk and the cost to replace it.
**** Alec Peirce Scuba ****
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0:58 "Now, he's a bit weird; he's a friend of mine to start with..."
I laughed out loud at that.
Love it. Many don't get my humor and some don't like it. British sarcasm at it's best - directed at myself!
Thanks Brian.
Great advice. 32 year US Navy Diver believes in you.
Much appreciated sir.
Ok, speaking of regulators. I have never seen you talk about full face masks / underwater communication gear. Thanks for all the tips! I have learned allot.
I'll get to full face eventually.
Thanks for watching. Alec
Thanks Alec
We really appreciate your videos.
You may not how impactful your videos are, but it's helping us greatly in the other side of the world!
Happy to hear that Jaber and thanks for watching.
As always, super-great. Thanks a million, Karl.
Hey, Alec! Idea for a Tech Tip:
Nearly every hobby has its own version of "snake oils", miracle products that you just "can't do without" (says the seller). How about your experiences with cleaners, lubes, de-foggers, de-stink products, etc.? What have you found that works, and what doesn't, or more importantly, may create a safety hazard (e.g. petroleum products and O2)? Looking forward to many, many more of your videos!
Mike Dunn
Wow! You've touched a nerve here Mike. I can do a lot with this one. Just give me some time!
For starters, did you know that in the late 60's Scubapro had a Wet Suit Lubricant that promised to keep you warm?
I have a jar of it.
It is a lubricant but it also has other ingredients that were touted to warm your body.
One of those ingredients was, wait for it ......... asbestos!!!
Another scuba secret escapes!
Talk soon.
Alec
I was in S2K over the weekend. Wow - changes! The biggest difference was that you have retired. I am so sorry to see you go, and remember the countless tips and techniques you have given us over the years. Your excellent advice and knee-slapping stories always made a visit a remarkable event. We will miss you very much. Enjoy the sun and the water. Keep diving.
Thanks Bruce.
I remember you well.
Yeah we've had a lot of fun over the years. Great adventures and great stories - some pretty close to factual!!
Thanks for your good wishes. I'll say hi to Diana.
Take care. Alec
Thank you for this tech tip . As usual enlightening
Hey Alec, really enjoy your videos and your honest and frank opinion about Scuba diving and all the various equipment. Nice to see someone that is not just on here to promote a brand that is sponsoring them.
Yes, scuba diving is a bit expensive to originally get involved in, especially if you purchase all the gear, including tanks. However, after that, if you maintain your gear, all is involved is air fills and visual inspections/hydro test for many years.
I was late getting involved in the sport (started at age 40) and have enjoyed the sport immensely for the past 9 years. However, as I prefer to dive with a wetsuit, my diving is between May to October in the Atlantic on the east coast.
All the best and keep up the tech videos.
I'm glad you're enjoying yourself D.
Anyone with a reasonably active body and mind can enjoy scuba.
I've had a lot of good dives in your area. It's always a thrill to dive there.
You must get to the South Pacific someday to see the incredible life on a reef.
You've got lots of time.
Thanks for watching.
Alec
Awesome! Keep it up!
Thanks for the tip Alec, perhaps you could show of youre old store other than the same view we see now..Second a short question.. Could you please touch on the buddy system, thoughts and ideas on that. Perhaps a bit history and so on? Example would be the importance of such a system, diving alone etc. Bet you have dove alone many of times, experience? In retrospect most of us know we should not dive alone, but many agancies including PADI (i think) are infact disqussing the topic that divers should learn how to dive alone, just to know what to do, how to manage and so on, any take on that.. Safety, buddy checks, emergency etc. Would be neat to hear how you did this back in the day, so not sure if it would be tech or vintage he he .
Awesome, I enjoy your videos as I have older equipment and changing to the new is a mystery somewhat. Thank You
Great to hear!
Hey Alec. Nice video as always.
Thanks Peter. Alec
Great channel I'm learning a lot 👍
If you're picking up some ideas that can help your diving, I'm a happy man.
Thanks for watching.
Alec
So true, you can always buy used (good quality) equipment. You can rent equipment etc. It’s up to diver to decide what regulator etc he/she wants. There is a HUGE price range in gear. And if you serve them and take of your equipment, the equipment will take of you, for a long time 👍 thanks Alec for another great, interesting video 😀
Thanks again Blackie.
Alec
Here in Brazil it's expensive as hell Alec. Thank you for your videos.
I have some good friends in Brazil and I know you face some real problems, including the government's control of any financial transactions.
Good luck.
Alec
If the threads on the Yoke knob are worn out, just get a new Yoke for your regulator. There's no need to replace the entire regulator if the 1st and 2nd stage rare in perfect working order. You're getting your regulator serviced every year to keep it in perfect working order. If your tech tells you the mechanics of your regulator are beyond repair, then you need to replace it, but that should never happen if you take good care of it.
My intention is if your yoke is that badly worn, it's a sign of other wear. If serviced right, the yoke should never be that badly worn without replacing so what could the tech have missed on internal service? Right?
A
Hay Alec thank you all your excellent videos :-) would you please be able to do a video on air migration in an drysuits I have slight issues with air migrating to my feet. Or the best way to balance your weight to creat attitude in the water. Thank you. For the UK
On the list Jacob.
Thanks for watching.
Alec
Good information, I dive and service a lot of 70s vintage regulators and I also have a lot of newer ones. Hoses in the 70s lasted longer than the modern hoses but even so hoses can be replaced. As long as the major components are still in good shape and the service kits are available there is no reason not to use an older regulator.
Well said Dan. Hope you have watched my Vintage Scuba playlists. It will bring back lots of memories.
Can you direct me where to buy service kits for my old Dacor Pacer 2nd stage?
I've got an old Sporasub regulator that's well serviced, and breathes well. 300 Bar DIN. Last time I had it serviced the technician replaced some parts that were over 20 years old.
Sporasub is the old defunct Mares high-end brand, like Apeks for Aqualung.
Glad to know your a collector of old regs too. Take care and thanks for watching Kaerius.
A
In South Florida, the dive store (LDS) services their rental regs after one year of use and then sells them. … so no rental/student regs are more than 1 yr old
That's an interesting practice as most LDS's did 2 years to get the most value out of each purchasing cycle. If it works and students are happy, great.
A.
Oh man you had me worried there for a minute.. I went and looked at my latest project.. the Dacor 460, with my Chinese 2nd stage.. thankfully, the old hoses are not showing the cloth weaving. Now if I could just get all that blue green powdery cust out if the end that goes on the 2nd stage, and smooth out those pitted areas inside, I will be back in action.. lol. Just kidding. I just used the hoses to keep my 1st and 2nd stage together and to show the dive shop what need when I have the money in the bank to buy new fancy colored hoses.. I'm thinking about matching all my gear to my wet suit.. blue and black. As it turned out every thing I bought from all these yard sales and estate sales turned out to be blue and black.. lol
Keep at it and soon we will all be getting wet with shiny new toys, err important gear. Thanks for the update and for watching.
Great tips ! learning a lot
just bought on ebay "brand new" old stock us divers conshelf 21 for 100 bucks trying to gather some info on if such old regulator may need be serviced despite the fact it was never used i assume some rubber components aged over time etc
Absolutely. All o-rings, filters, diagram's etc wear and need service to be 100% safe and beautiful tuned. Check with your local dive shop if they service it or search ScubaBoard.com for suggestions on who could return it to use.
Alec Peirce Scuba Thank you ! this particular regulator was never used it is brand new but it's simply old i must assume even not used parts will age much appreciate your tips!!!
Can you service a older beuchat regulator slightly used from the 1980s, I believe it's called a voyager. Thanks
Within reason, yes. Beuchat is still in business and is a very old company. There are lots of dealers and it's quite likely we could find a service kit or at least the necessary parts to service your reg. The design of Beachat regs is not so radical that special tools or training is absolutely required. I'd suggest you first try to find a dealer that you can reach out to. You can even contact the company directly. Let me know how you make out. I am friendly with the Canadian distributor and can help if you have problems.
Alec
Hi Alec... great vid as usual I always enjoyed your channel. Quick question, how often do you think my regs have to be serviced. I know they said at least once every year, but a friend of mine said to do it at least every 60 logs...
I've had my regs for 2 years now and I already serviced them last year, but I only had 30 additional logs with it since last service, do you think I should service them again?
Thanks a lot.
I'm asked this question all the time and it's a hard question.
1. If your reg is new and under warranty then abide by the warranty, at least for the first few years. That usually means every 2 years.
2. Otherwise I usually suggest 25 to 50 dives. It's a wide range because the type of dive also affects the decision. Salt water is much harder on regs and the possibility of a tiny leak that could ruin the reg exists - 25 dives.
Fresh water is great for regs but even fresh water inside is not good, plus seats get worn and your saliva isn't helping - 50 dives.
3. If you properly and fastidiously rinse and dry your regs and store them properly (see my vids), that can give you more time too.
Another good question is when to service Do you service before a dive trip or after??
Thanks for watching Ruth.
Alec
Alec Peirce Scuba thanks for the reply Alec, I think every 2 years is quite reasonable for me since I don't dive that frequently, probably 30 dives a year. Last time I serviced my regs was after a dive trip. Particularly when I know that I wasn't planning a dive for the next few months.
Once again thankyou! I asked because I realized how pricy regulators service can be. The service fee itself is okay but since they have to replace all the small rings and little screws inside and those made it much more expensive.
Hi Alec Great video as usual!! I'd like to ask you if is possible to pair up a classic downstream piston MK2 with a balanced 2 stage (aqualung mikron) ?? thank you.
Sure. What the heck.
I had a motorcycle with a Chevy 350 V8 in it. They still make them - Boss Hog.
A pretty basic motorcycle frame with an overpowered engine. Fun but stupid!
Sort'a like your suggestion - a very basic first stage paired to a very sophisticated second.
But if the second is adjusted to the first stage IP, it'll work just fine.
What are you trying to accomplish?
Alec
I found a very good offer for the Aqualung mikron and I am trying to save some money...However I am not very good at this and tried to ask you. Maybe you could make a video of how to pair up first and second stage :) What do you recommend to be pair the MK2? Thank you
I'll make a video since this is a common issue.
You can match any first with any second (there are a couple of exceptions but rare).
But, after the connection you must match the second to the IP (intermediate pressure) coming from the first or you will get either free flow or no air - take your pick.
It's not hard to do and can be best done by a reg technician. It might take him 5 minutes.
I'd charge someone a couple of bucks on principle - trying to stay in business, don't go to work because I have nothing else to do, had to buy the tools and take the training, etc.
However, if you're handy you can do it yourself.
I'll do a vid. Might be a while before it appears. Kevin takes care of that.
Alec
Awesome! Looking forward to watch the video. Thanks for the precious info once again.... I think I will go with Scubapro R095 to keep it simple as you always recommend.
Great video, as usual! I recently replaced mine from the 90s to get one with nitrox capability. I'll definitely be keeping these things in mind 20 years from now when I decide whether to replace it! On a DIN connection I assume we should also be worried about the chrome being worn? Are there any special considerations with regards to preventing/noticing wear on a DIN connection or a yoke adapter?
A DIN is the same as a yoke. Just watch for wear on the threads.
Maybe I shouldn't tell you this but any regulator, any brand/model and any age (within reason) can be made NITROX compatible. They don't build some regs for air and others for EANx.
It's a simple matter of proper cleaning and replacement of the rubber/nylon/silicon parts with oxygen compatible parts. Maybe $150. No more than that I think.
Alec
My LDS told me it could be converted for nitrox use inexpensively, but I got such a good deal on a high end modern regulator (swivels, balanced first and second stages, adjustment knob, etc.) that spending the money on the old one just wasn't worth it. Now it's a backup. I'd been looking at the new one for a while anyway. Thanks for the info about DIN regs!
I went from an early 90s Sherwood to an Atomic B2.
Lots of companies have a NITROX Compatible regulator and stores will try to sell that to you if you intend to use Nitrox. These regs come with nice green mouthpieces or hoses and fancy names but .... they are simply the same model the has already been converted to nitrox use as I described above - cleaned and with oxygen compatible parts. If you want the pretty green add-ons, buy them and add them on.
The regulator is exactly the same inside!
Generally you'll find that converting a regulator to one that is nitrox compatible is the same or less than buying a factory converted unit.
In fact, almost all most regulators today are produced as Nitrox Ready to 40% from the factory. Realize that a reg does not have to be oxygen compatible unless it's going to use pure oxygen - which you never do!!! There's no risk from using a standard regulator for a standard nitrox mix - 32% or 36%.
Save your money!
More good news? If you buy a Nitrox regulator (whatever that means!), say the Poseidon Xstream Duration with all it's pretty green parts, and then use it on a tank of air that is not OCA (Oxygen Compatible Air), your regulator is no longer oxygen compatible. Did your dealer tell you that? I think not!!
Alec
My suggestion about threads applies universally. If you see wear on a thread it should be replaced.
AND, the matching thread should be replaced too. Generally they wear equally. So if the yoke screw is turning brassy and is a bit loose, it AND the yoke should be replaced.
Gosh, I think this is the first time we really disagree Tom - about old vs new regs.
First, the fact that the military still uses the Conshelf speaks more about the military than about the regulator. The military simply doesn't change. Remember that they were insisting on 2 hose Aquamasters long after USD stopped making them! The military just chose a new handgun (Sig Sauer) after 35 years of using the Beretta M9 and that gun was chosen after 75 years of using the Remington M1911!!
Even a cheap new regulator (
Alec, I have a Dacor Olympic 400 regulator. Inside the first stage the high pressure diaphram needs to be replaced. I think I can use a ScubaPro diaphram with identical diameter but 1 mm thinner. I polished the high pressure seat and it looks new. I am told that the seat material is rubber and will inevitability crack and fail. So are you going to tell me there is no hope for a new lease on life?
There may be hope to get it working again but I don't like using similar parts. Best to get an experienced repair person. Contact my friend Rob at; www.thescubamuseum.com. Don't take a chance on mixing parts, get feedback from someone who lives double hose regs.
A
physical wear, rubber deterioration, corrosion. ozone and UV kill rubber.. so how you store your gear is very important for longevity.. so is rinsing off salt, and dirt.
Yep! Even if you don't use a regulator for a long time it may need service. Storage is very important.
Thanks. Alec
totally agreed. spending $800 every 20 years on equipment that's literally keeping you alive is a no-brainer.
My life is worth $800, my wife sometimes disagrees...
A
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter 🤣
very educational and objective answered the unasked questions without 1. being condeceding 2. brand bias plus an easy to understand format too bad the "experts" can't explain like you can I look forward to your tech videos and beginning to understand sea hunt a little now 😂
Thanks Ivory. Is that really your name?
Thanks for watching. Alec
Alec Peirce Scuba yes sir
Nice. I like it.
Talk again soon.
Alec
Sooo good ... and sooo true what you say about price compared to other sports ... BTW .. I just got certified Open water PADI .. with Action Scuba !! so glad I got my first certification .. cant wait to buy my equipment now .. the set I have in mind now but really trying to stay as close to 3k $ as possible .. is bcd = scubapro hydros pro, reg = either mk25 / s600 or a mk25 evo or an oceanic zeo .. I might consider aqualung legend or a top apeks will see but the mk and oceanic the most, dive computer = scubapro G2 or shearwater perdix or oceanic vtx ... now I would just have to find a place that offer best prices and best warranty (pieces for the reg etc) ... hope to meet you in person someday ! ... continue please those great vids
Of your choices think Scubapro.
The Oceanic VTX is really nice.
Good luck. Alec
Ah ok ? so for the reg i would be better with scubapro ? true that they look really sturdy and nice ... an instructor I was diving with this weekend when I finished my certification had the Mk25 with S600 and she likes it .. the mouth piece was really comfy also ... oh btw also .. do you know if scubapro has the free piece warranty for their mk25 normally ? or depends where you buy etc ?
If you dive in cold water (>50 degrees F), you might want the MK17 and S600 (S600 can't be beat!).
THe MK25 is also good in cold water too but the 17 is marginally better.
Scubapro offers a Lifetime Warranty and Free Parts IF you buy a Scubapro Reg/Octo/BC/Computer set - all 4 items..
I don't like that policy one bit!
Free parts for life means they are giving you $60 a year ($120 every 2 years for required service) but only if you buy $2000 worth of gear from them. It may be good gear but I hate being blackmailed. Plus, their regs are great but the octos are overpriced, the BCs are good but also expensive and I'm not a fan of Uwatec computers. That $60 a year is $600 in 10 years, about the time you'll want to change it. By shopping carefully you can easily save $600 on the initial purchase, pay for the service kits as needed. and in 10 years you'll be even.
Lots to think about. Not sure if I'm helping. Maybe I should be like other store owners and simply tell you to buy a set and get the FREE parts. Sounds good but when you analyze it, nope!
Alec
yep you got a very good point ! ... im not far from the scubapro kit though .. as the hydros pro is a dream like bcd for travel AND for here around in Canada unless another one would offer almost the same as back inflated and better price but as convenient ... dont know either if the OCEANIC - EXCURSION would be a good alternative as really cheaper and for the reg .. is it the reason why they made the EVO version ? to have it better in cold .. compared to the straight mk25 ? ... as for the computer the new G2 comming sounds like a dream at about 1500$ (if there is a transmitter included)... but the vtx or s. perdix AI seems good too for air integrated... I agree with you that the octopus R195 is a bit pricey for what it is though ...
EVO is exactly that - environmentally protected: translate - won't freeze.
Please note that there has never been a regulator made that won't freeze. Often the regs with the most marketing names attached are the worst eg. Arctic, AER (All Environmental Reg), XC (extreme conditions), etc.
EVO amounts to coated parts to prevent stuff sticking and bigger holes to allow better rinsing and flow through the ambient port. However, it's an improvement not matter how small.
I like the VTX. Easy to read and use.
Get a slimline octo from Oceanic, Genesis (they're identical) or even better, XS Scuba.
Good luck. Alec
where can I buy 2 hose regulators today?
There are a few reputable places but buy double hose regs that are safe to dive. Check out my vintage buddy Rob's online store at: www.thescubamuseum.com/default.htm.
Want to learn more about vintage double how regs? Check out this great site: www.cg-45.com
Great video again !
Just wondering no matter how expensive a regulator is, they all won't last for a lifetime? If a purchase a regulator with " leather seats " and really dont wanna replace it til 40 or 50 years, how am I suppose to achieve that?
Any decent regulator will last for many years, maybe a "lifetime", whatever that means.
I regularly service and dive with regulators, both 2 hose and single hose, that are more than 60 years old.
However, regardless of the price of the reg, you will still need to service it and that includes replacing the replaceable parts - neoprene and even silicon seats and valves and maybe even the hoses too. Those parts do NOT last a lifetime, nowhere close!
Leather is not used in regulators.
Take care.
Alec
the first consideration is the damage to correct then the availability of the good quality replacement parts and the cost of work involved.
unless a regulator is abused, it can outlast most amateur diver life so I never buy a regulator new and I make the service and the fine tuning myself so my regulators are always top notch and I never had issues with a regulator that I released.
I agree that for a non mechanically inclined person, there is a point where it is better to replace instead of repair so I can buy this regulator then recondition it for my personal use.
I can't never insist too much on the cleaniness of the parts to be reassembled, of the tools involved and of the workspace used as it is a precision equipment and the destruction is pretty easy with wrong tools, debris or brute force.
You'd be shocked to see the regs I've had in for service that look like they just came through a war zone - dirty, stripped screw heads, rounded nuts & bolts, cracked hoses, missing dust caps, black filters, missing exhaust tees and much more.
And of course, those divers are shocked at the cost of the service.
Thanks for watching Jacques.
Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter I encounter exactly the same thing in the mechanics area ( automotive, agricultural and industrial too ) in some cases, the mechanics lasts forever staylin in good to top condition, on some other cases, after only 2 years, it is a field of ruins.
I truly understand why you always refer to a certified technician to perform maintenance on dive regulators and even there the risk to have botched work is not inexistent. I fear botched work on a life support equipment.
Hi Alec, is there a need to service a brand new regulator out of the box or at least get it checked?
Every reg ought to be checked from the box. You wouldn't believe the things I've seen!!
That should be done by the dive store before the reg goes out.
We would never hand a diver a reg in a box!
If you bought it like that, take it to your LDS and ask them to check it. They should be happy to set it all up for a couple of bucks ($25) and then you can dive without worry.
I've heard of some stores that have refused to check a regulator that someone brought it - because they bought it on-line!! How stupid!
You have a diver with scuba gear in your store asking for help and you send him away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It doesn't matter where he bought, he could have stolen it, and I'll be glad to help him.
At the very least you've picked up a couple of bucks.
Maybe you can sell an octo or flex hoses.
Maybe you just got a great customer.
Maybe you saved a life!
well said Alec! thank you for your reply!
That is a refreshing view Alec!
Why aren´t you using DIN type 1. stages? I have been told that they are much simpler and trustworthy
Simpler? A DIN has 2 moving parts and 2 O-Rings. A yoke has 2 moving parts.
The yoke has been in constant use since 1945. Pretty trustworthy.
Now, let's not debate the merits of each.
I have better things to do with my few remaining years and such a discussion would take that long!
In North America, the Caribbean and throughout the South Pacific, the yoke is the most common.
I really don't tell divers which they should use since that's entirely up to what's in common use where they will be diving.
Better or not, it would be dumb to have a DIN reg if all the divers, diver stores and dive boats use yoke where you are diving.
Alec
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter Makes sense! End of discussion! Thank you
@@larsnielsen4617 get a DIN regulator and DIN/ YOKE adapter (50-60$), enjoy diving on both location :)
DIN 237 bar or DIN type 1 is really unnecessary. How many problems do yoke mounted regulators have? If the oring is leaking or worn out change it. I have never seen a major failure like Alec was talking about (over 3000 dives and at least that many student dives) and in North America our HP is never above 3500 psig / 237 bar. Some people and divers just like to be different.
@Dragomir Ronilac Define high pressure. In many industrial applications all scuba would be considered low pressure. For scuba in the US DIN is not required since our cylinders are less than 235 bar or 3500 psig.
Hi sir alec will the host will stay longer if it’s miflex?
Thanks.
We don't know for sure yet since they have only been available for about 10 years.
However, the nylon cover does not deteriorate like rubber so they ought to last longer.
Alec
Alec, why would a dive store want to give a credit for an older regulator? They can't sell it or make money off of it, can they? Any credit they give would reduce their profit margin wouldn't it? What is the intrinsic value of an older regulator to anyone? Don't misunderstand me, I love the idea myself, but I don't see why they would do it. Thanks.
Good question Rick.
I have often suggested to dive stores and to divers that they should consider a Trade-In for older gear. That is, offering a token amount for an old piece of scuba gear to be applied to the purchase of a new piece of gear.
Divers think it's a great idea - stores not so much - and that's exactly why they should do it.
I'm NOT a retail guru. I'm not an expert.
But, I've been in the scuba retail business for almost 50 years and have opened, owned or helped to open more than a dozen dive shops in that time. Plus, I'm a consumer too. So I've picked up some ideas that have been very successful.
1. consumers love to buy new gear if possible (even if they don't really need it)
2. consumers hate to see their old gear wasted - thrown away or left collecting dust in a closet
3. consumers love to get a deal - even a minimal discount or rebate is welcome
4. retailers always win when they sell new gear - immediate profit, add-ons, future service and good customer relations
5. a Trade-In is better than a discount for a retailer.
So, by offering a Trade-In value for old gear, a retailer gives the consumer what he wants - new gear, value for their old gear and a deal. AND, the retailer gets what he wants - a new gear sale, a happy customer and without discounting the price.
In the consumer's mind a Trade-In is not a discount. The Trade-In value is applied to the regular price. The regular price is not discounted. So the retailer is not subject to the problems that follow discounting prices.
Everybody wins!!
Now once the happy customer walks out of the store with his new gear, the retailer can do whatever he likes with the Trade-In gear. I used to keep many of the old items if I thought that I would one day need them for parts or for junior sets. I often refurbished items and offered them to dive clubs or beginning divers who couldn't afford new stuff. We did not sell used gear in the store. That defeats the goal of selling new gear but I made a lot of money selling some of the old gear. Many items, wetsuits, worn-out BCDs, gauges, etc, went straight to the garbage.
It worked. The store made sales, made money and kept customers happy. We'd often sell new gear at a higher price than another store simply because we gave the consumer something for his old gear. They simply liked the idea. We attracted lots of new customers too as word spread that divers could get rid of their old gear. Most stores dodn't do that.
Essentially Rick, it came down to good customers relations and marketing. It had nothing to do with scuba gear.
Take care.
Alec
Great way to look at it Alec. It sure makes sense to me. I know I hate the idea of leaving some of my older gear in storage, and just can't bring myself to throw it away either. Some of it is actually borderline vintage, or at least it's on the way to being so. Thanks for the very in-depth reply, it should be required reading for dive equipment retailers everywhere.
haha. good for us din divers. we here do not use yoke at all...
Too bad. Yoke is cheaper, faster, easier to service and just as good for pressures to 3500.
And you don't need adapters to dive in other parts of the world - Caribbean, South Pacific, Red Sea, etc.
Each has it's own benefits - and disadvantages too.
Thanks for watching. Alec
Alec Peirce Scuba unfortunatly DIN is standard here. Of course we all have the yoke adapter in the dive bag but for the last 3 years I used it twice I think.
You really have to use what's common in your area.
Steel tanks and DIN are the way to go in Europe.
I just don't like to hear a diver say "This the best!!".
There's always something better or at least, better for different circumstances.
Take care.
Alec
I know this is an old video . That said this is not a sport. I've been diving almost as long as Alec. It's a recreation!!!!!!!
Heck. It's a life style!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Alec
For some,for others a lifestyle
Sorry but freediving is a lot better return on investment for modern sport. It's like scuba but the gear to be able to do it all year even in Canada is $800-900 brand new and you don't have to spend money to fill tanks or get your gear serviced. 👌 I scuba and Freediver but I have to disagree Alec.
Glad to have your voice heard Smiley but this is all about scuba so I hope you can pickup some tidbit to help with the freediving.
A.
Regarding the first part: yoke wear.
It could be time to convert that yoke reg to a DIN & put the newer style universal XS SCUBA Pro valve (U$57) on your tanks when you get your VIP. The mating surfaces will then be new!
Just an idea! 💦🐳🤿
Look for a video on DIN adapters when Kevin gets around to editing it for release.
A
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter I will do so! I have a nice balanced yoke Cressi MC9 that I am thinking of converting to DIN, just for shitz & giggles. My tanks all have the new valve that one can remove the little piece with an Allen wrench to facilitate using a DIN reg. Just sumpthin' to do, eh!
I gotta tell you I don't miss those Canadian winters here in sunny Huntington Beach. 👍💦🐳🤿
@@lupusdeum3894 SCUBA diving is a sickness. I already got two finger spools, and am actually thinking of buying a third.