My Mercedes M111 Turbo Engine Built for my W202 Race Car
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- In this video I show you my Mercedes M111 turbo engine built for my W202 race car which formerly had an OM605 superturbodiesel engine. I talk about the special crankshaft, steel rods, forged M104 3,6l pistons, main and cylinder head studs by ARP and other modifications I did to make that engine ready for high boost.
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I think It Will make an Easy 500hp even more
Torque Monster in the making. Best of luck with the build! If you have a chance, please weigh the engine once built, it's hard to find reliable weight figures for them.
Love the content keep it coming.
Great work pal
Nice build👍 Have you done any modifications in the oil-sump itself for high cornering speeds?
I need to know what engine mounts those are, very curious 🤔
No but for real, are those e36 engine mounts?
Great work mate , did you also put wedges in the block between the pistons?
Also what engine mounts are those?
With that amount of horse power will you have issues with the prop shaft and differential?
Also what gear box are you using for this application?
between the bores... good question
Where can I find such forged pistons ?
Hey bra i'm looking to fit an aftermarket throttle position sensor to a 97-98 m111 engine. How do i go about it. I've been thinking of modifying that rocker thing on the gas pedal mechanism would that provide enough voltage range to work with?
Is the crankshaft much heavier that the original? What the advantage of having the extra counterweight?
Everything is looking good on that engine, just wondering what the static compression ratio is and if you have to align-hone the main bearing bores of the block after you install that main stud kit. Keep rolling.....
Hi, I checked the deformation in the main bearings with the stud kit. Measured it before and after. It gets a slight ovality but all within the acceptable tolerances. Bearing clearance was perfect. Some people say the ovality can help by providing some kind of oil wedge that helps with lubrication.
OK, When I put the ARP main studs into my 2.8 VR6 I first assembled the main caps with the factory TTY bolts but only tightened to the initial torque, then I installed the ARP studs, hand tight to the block, one at a time, and torque the nuts to the same intial torque, after they are all installed then tightened them in sequence to the ARP torque value on the tech sheet. I did the same thing with the ARP connecting rod bolts for the factory rods. The idea is to let the factory bolts align the caps, and by removing them and replacing them one at a time, it will maintain the alignment. And by installing the studs into the block hand tight only, you will not expand the main saddles around the bolt holes which can cause ovality.@@CZSMotorsport
Sick!
Looking good mate. Did you close the water galleries at the top of the block to help the head gasket?
Using a special copper head gasket, which can also be found in my shop.
Where you find that crankshaft??
In Denmark
when part 2?
Erster 🎉