ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor replacement, Volvo red block, 240, 740, 940, etc. - VOTD
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- ECT sensor replacement: 30 to 60 minutes ($30 / $130 / $220)
In this video I replace the engine coolant temperature sensor in my 1990 Volvo 740 GL, red block car. My car has the cold start injector and EGR valve so it is as hard as it gets. Some will be easier. Will be a similar process for 240, 740, and 940 cars. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thank you, this is the best and most detailed video I can find on replacement of this sensor, I would not have known where to start without it. Thank you so much.
+Andrew Stones Thanks for watching. Glad it helped.
Thanks Robert !!! Saved me a lot of hassles. The fuel pressure regulator was the issue. I discovered by reading the threads on this video. Car starts and runs awesome now.!!!
+wianno96 good deal.
Robert, Your patience is inspiring!! Clear, direct and thorough. Thank You Sir!! Thank You!!
You are welcome
I've also been having a hot start issue with my 940. I'll be replacing this sensor next! Thanks for the great video!
You are welcome.
Did it work?
@@lukasjansson7157 No unfortunately. My issue ended up being a faulty mass airflow sensor.
I liked the video before even watching it, I love that you make all these videos, cheers mate, going to do this job today
Thanks 👍
Best one so far, good job; i needed this information to work on my 1979 240 with a 1986 engine and harness
seva Wright Thanks for watching.
This video is real helpful!!! I’m still so jealous of your volvo diag tool
thanks for watching.
Hi Robert, I find it interesting that Volvo tries to sell you a very expensive coolant temperature sensor, but calls it a injection thermal switch,
a difference of $10-15 to Volvo $120.00,
but I figure as long as it fits and has the temperature you need to open and close, it should work and it does,
your videos are always helpful,
Thanks for watching.
18mm, that’s the info I needed, i might be able to do it with a long wrench. Getting a bad intermittent signal from the ect, jiggling it helps so it might be the connector I have to replace
Cool
Thanks Robert, very helpful!
You are welcome.
Wow that engine is clean
Thanks
Thanks for you great videos! I have a old Volvo 740 with less then 100,000km's on it. But now, 80% of the time it wont start when its hot. Im going to try changing the fuel pressure regulator tomorrow and see if thats the problem.
Although, the gas pump underneath my seat doesn't pump any fuel or sound when i but the ignition to mode 2.. Doesnt matter if the car is hot or cold, and when it starts, it doesnt sound then as well.
Best regards from Sweden.
Thanks for watching.
very useful for my volvo 940gle. i can see what was wrong with my car.
Sompan Panmoung Good deal. Thanks for watching.
Thanks a lot for your help
you are welcome.
Even your videos from years ago help me to this day! Haha
Nice
thanks for your help
You are welcome
Similar issue on 1990 740 , replacing Radio Suppression Relay resolved issue. I now carry two relays in the glove box.
If you installed a new relay, it should be good for 15 years. Or at least 10.
Thanks Robert this may help me out here. I am trying to help out a local Volvo owner with his 92 240 starts ok cold but doesn't start well once warm. Luckily I have a few spare MAF sensors I can try before going for the ECT.
+SKAVENGERS10 My issue ended up being the fuel pressure regulator.
+Robert DIY hmm this one just got a new FPR last year I'm kind of thinking it may be the fuel pressure check valve by the main pump. It starts fine cold and immediate after shut down its starts a little harder. 10 minutes later won't start easily.
Hmmm, keep me advised.
+SKAVENGERS10 did you end up finding a solution?
Bad fuel pressure regulator.
hey first thanks for all the vids. been a great help. curious about the wiring on my coolant temp switch tho. had some corrosion on the wires for the female end and took it apart to clean them but like the newbie I am I did not note which wire goes in each side of the terminal housing. I think they are labeled 1 and 2 on the housing but not sure if that helps. hoping you could give some insight. it's a 98 s70. have been running it with the sensor unplugged due to bad connection and haven't really had any issues except a rough start. curious if there is a reason for that as well. thanks again tho and keep up with the vids. they are great
+Justin S I don't think it matters.
This guy works so hard, amazing amazing,, CZcams success
💪🏾
Hi Rob, did you figure out what was going on yet I am stumped with the same type problem with a neighbors car.
Thanks a lot for your help, Rob Mahaney
Dallin Mahaney Fuel pressure regulator.
Just changed mine without having to remove throttle body, idle control Or cold start injector plug!
Awesome!
Hey Robert, I am having the opposite problem. We have been getting this arctic blast of cold weather. It takes a long time to get the car started. It finally does after several tries. Once the car is warm, it will start fine. I let it sit in 32 degree weather for about 3 hours and it was hard to start, but did after a few tries. Getting error codes #2 1-2-3, #6 2-2-4 (1993 Volvo 240 Wagon - Non-Turbo)
The idle fluctuates also while it is running.
+Eric J Simmons my car had a bad fuel pressure regulator.
The Fuel Pressure Regulator is brand new.
Love you videos, Robert. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have a 1991 Volvo 240 with a temp gage that's barely moving. Since a temp board bypass was installed a few years ago, I figure the problem is likely the temp sensor/sending unit further forward on the block (under #2?). Do you have a video showing steps for replacing that one? Anything I should look to before attempting it's replacement? Thanks again for the fantastic instructionals; you've helped me out with several projects.
I have no idea what a "temp board bypass" is. If the thermostat is good, not sure what your problem could be. Also, could be a bad gauge in the cluster.
Ok. Thanks for the quick reply. Just thought that the coolant temp sensor that sends a reading to the gage might be the problem. BTW, the temp board bypass kits are sold by IPD and you can read more about them on their site. They're useful to know about as they're a fraction the cost of a new temp board.
What are they used for?
The OE temp boards weren't much use at all. That's why the bypass kit is handy when they fail. (Especially since they're under $8!) The following explanation is from IPD.
"1986-1993 240 models are equipped with circuitry that is designed to keep the coolant temp gauge needle positioned in the normal zone (9:00 position) even if the engine is running a bit hot. The idea is to prevent minor variations in coolant temp from causing worry for the driver. As these cars age a common problem is the failure of the circuit board and connectors resulting in erratic readings or no reading at all. We have put together a simple bypass harness that reverts the function back to the earlier trouble-free design."
I see. On the 850's, temp needle will hit normal at 173 and stay there until 230 ish. So, 3 o'clock is "normal" safe range.
Hey Robert great videos and tips .I have a question I replaced ect sensor on my father's s70 glt because of trouble starting when cold .it's still happening any ideas as to what else would cause it
Bad fuel pump relay. Does it have any codes?
Hi Robert Thanks for the great videos! My 1994 Volvo 940's electric fan does come on. I have a known, good dual speed relay, but the sensor is not letting the fan come on. I noticed there are three sensors on the lower front left of the radiator. Purple, gray and brown connectors. Are those the one's that control the fan, or should I have a sensor like the one shown in your video? Thanks again.
Sad to say, I have no idea.
Those are switches for your air-conditioning condenser and AC fans. .your cooling fan temp switch is on your lower radiator hose, you can pull off the connector and jump the wires to see if the fan works, if so it's likely that sensor on the lower radiator hose that is keeping your fan from coming on
Another great video, thank you +Robert DIY. Did you ever find the issue?
+Christopher Moriarty bad fuel pressure regulator.
+Christopher Moriarty bad fuel pressure regulator.
Thanks, I find your videos very helpful, my question is on a 1992 740 red block what is the sensor inside the top radiator (Battery side) has two bare terminals and battery voltage on black and white wire, I have no resistance across the 2 terminals on the sensor. Not sure if it's a coolant temp. and does this sensor tie into the dash temperature gauge? Thanks in advance
Unplug it and see what happens. I think it is for the cluster.
@@RobertDIY
I did a little digging and found it to be the thermoswitch for electric fan, if connector is jumped it turns on the hi speed fan. Thanks and keep up the good work!
Hi Robert. Love your videos, always helpful! Wondering if you could give me some advice, any help would be greatly appreciated! I have a 1993 Volvo 940 turbo which I replaced the radiator on, and ever since have had issues with the coolant pressure blowing out what I first thought was just a pressure plug, located just above the transmission cooler fitting on the radiator. I now have reason to believe that I was sold a radiator for a non-turbo vehicle , and that the "pressure plug" is actually a fitting for the temp sensor on a non-turbo radiator, as my old turbo radiator has no such fitting with a temporary plug in it. I had to purchase a freeze plug because I lost the original "dummy" plug. I just recently also noticed that the radiator cooling fan hasn't been coming on and I took the cooling fan relay cover off to test the fan and it does comes on with car running or not running when I push the relay switches contacts together. My AC isn't charged but if I turn it on shouldn't the cooling fan come on, because when I engage the AC, the fan still doesn't turn on. If the cooling fan isn't working properly, would that be the cause of the extra pressure buildup? Also, would the non-turbo radiator possibly be causing these issues and can I even get away with keeping the non-turbo radiator in the turbo car? Do I need to tighten the nut on the freeze plug to keep it tighter so it doesn't blow out and would that cause my fan to start working or could I blow a hose or crack my radiator if the freeze plug isn't allowed to blow out under pressure? Not sure what to do next. On a side note: I did burp the cooling system numerous times to no avail after installing the radiator, but the pressure always builds up and eventually blows out the plug unless I frequently open up my overflow cap to release pressure. I also had replaced the thermostat before I replaced the radiator because sometimes the heat would be working fine, and then it would sporadically start blowing cold air. The old thermostat had that little hole on one side with a little piece of metal that freely moves, if the thermostat I put in didn't have that hole, would it matter, or cause any of the issues I'm having?
Huh? If you have coolant pressure, you likely have a blown head. If the radiator fit with all of the proper connections, it likely is proper. The radiator is for coolant, not turbo tubes unless it has a coolant line off of the radiator for the turbo.
Also, you should get proper parts for your Volvo from a Volvo parts supplier, not Jimmy John's auto parts for Honda's and Chevy's.
@@RobertDIY thanks. I had a friend look at my car briefly, he is also a Volvo mechanic and he didn't get the impression from quickly checking that I had a blown head, so is there anything else to your knowledge that could be causing the pressure buildup? It couldn't be my failing cooling fan could it? He thought that I should just tighten up the freeze plug in my radiator and any extra pressure would and should be released via the overflow tank cap, is that true? I just don't wanna risk blowing out a hose or cracking my radiator.
Yep. Thing that blew out is probably the black plastic plug that fills the hole for the optional thermoswitch for fans.
Check the fuel pressure? Maybe injectors leaking fuel into engine flooding when stopped?
Interesting
Dirty maf was my problem originally
OK
Dear Robert, I I think I might have some issues with my EGR valve.
I looked on O'Reilly's system to see if they even had an EGR valve, and it said " no results" for
the exact make and model of my car:
1985 Volvo 240 (or 244) DL, B230F, 2.3 L
Do you have any suggestions where I might get a new one?
(Autozone, and Napa Auto Parts didn't have one either) - and Not sure if I want to go to Pick-N-Pull.
What would you recommend?
Thank you so much for your help.
You have no idea how grateful I am for your videos.
I have saved time, and a lot of money by learning to care for our Volvo myself.
I can't believe I am getting great lessons FOR FREE by watching your videos.
God bless you Robert!
+Mark Henry Cooney What!!! Free!!! You're not paying my CZcams Fees??? OMG!!! You're cheating me!!! (just kidding, new emotional outburst I learned from helping my aunt this week - lol). I'm not sure if these cars have EGR's. The most common issue is a sticky throttle body and clogged PCV flame trap. - czcams.com/video/eYOsx9rcAhs/video.html
Hey Robert, I have the same warm start issue in my turbo 940. I was thinking, the ECT sensor should be working just fine if the temp gauge works fine right?
Also have little idle oscilation even after sparkplug/cap/rotor has been changed, but it is much smaller.
Maybe the Warm start issue is because rpm sensor? what other things should I check? appart from this 2 things the car runes totally fine and powerfull on nearly 200k miles so I'd discard the MAF on my case
Mine was the fuel pressure regulator.
Robert DIY how's your hall sensor?
Check ignition timing? I know the ICT needs temp sensor for timing control,,, maybe timing still off
Interesting
+Robert DIY Did you end up solving the problem? I have a 1992 Volvo 240. Mine has been idling rough and stalling in idle when warm. I also had to step on the accelerator to start it. I cleaned my throttle body, cleaned my IAC valve, and replaced my ECT sensor and it is still idling rough and stalling in idle. However, it is starting without having to step on the accelerator.
+Be Water bad fuel pressure regulator.
Robert hey man I'm a friend of Marty Sanders and Kim Swecker here in Cincinnati, Ohio and had no idea you guys had met very cool. I have a 1994 940 Turbo Wagon and have some issues. First, off when it's cooler outside it idles rough for a short bit then smoothes out. Also seeming to maybe have a blip occurring during accel just while driving. The main issue is that the car really will not shift into Reverse and I seem to have play in the shift knob. Wondering if replacing the bushings will help in your experience? Thanks so much for your knowledge.
If the bushing is bad, I'd start there.
Idle/throttle thing sounds similar to when I had my FPR issue... Very easy/economical replacement. Right on top of intake mani, $40.
I just got a 87 240, the temperature gauge rises and descends after being used for awhile and its definitely not overheating. I took off the connector to the temp sensor and placed it to metal, and the needle shot up. I read that it means it's a bad gauge? is this true? can the gauge be repaired? and how? thanks man! your a cash saver!!
+Joe Serrano I don't know. Have not had to deal with that.
Robert quick question,
one of my 245 is reversed its got morning cold start issue, I figure it's thermal time switch,
Do you think it would work like a choke, if I just left thermal time switch as is and ran the cold start valve by wiring it to a switch and giving a quick flick when cold, what do you think, appreciate any input.
thanks
I really don't know. What year is the vehicle?
1981 245
Robert you know where the temp sensor is located on a 2003 s80 volvo
Nope. Usually at the thermostat housing.
Do i beed all those tools for changing the ect sensor on my volvo 240 ?
I guess.
question sir, you mentioned the sensor right under the intake that sends to the instrument cluster. the one that shows the 2 yellow wires going into the plug @ 2:38. how does one remove that one? bust off the plastic and put a socket on it?
🤷🏾♂️
billy did you do it…. i am about to break the plastic off of it
Crowfoot
Sir, is it allows to switch the wire since mine has no socket connector??
I guess.
Had this problem with hard hot start,I unplugged the connector of the front temp sensor and now it starts up runs fine when hot or cold.
So that's your fix?
@@RobertDIY for now it is,I'm not cranking the engine now for up to 30 seconds when it warm,maybe different story in winter but i only use it in summer months.
Front temp sensor has no correlation to idle, it’s only for your gauge. Coincidence.
Mine has the same symptoms but only on cold start
ouch
hi Robert I'm having problems wit my 1988 240 volvo getting really hot when I drive. do u have any ideas on how I can fix that?
+Juanita Rodgers have you replaced the thermostat?
Probably idle air valve sticking closed hence the need to press the gas pedal on hot starts
Interesting
Thank you Volvo for putting the temp sensor in a dumb-ass place!
+Ben quinn Wasn't to bad, just a 40 minute job.
Hey Robert. Did you end up finding out what it was. I've been chasing a hunting idle on my 940 for 1.5 years and still haven't solved it.
Fuel pressure regulator
help 2004 C70 with only 95k miles starts great everytime wth cold engine. But sometimes after driving about 30 minutes and the leave parked for between 10 to 20 minutes and doesn't want to start or starts for a second and shuts off. when this happens I have to tap accelerater pedal and keep the rpm above idle and it runs fine. this problem is intermittent. I already changed the mass air flow sensor but problem persists. no codes thrown Please any suggestions appreciated
ECT.
Looks very similar to the issue I hade with my fuel pump non return valve. Replaced it and started fine again.
benim araç 1985 volvo 740 turbo intercooler aracım hem lpg hem de tüpte gaz yememe silkeleme yapıyor yakıtı çok yakıyor kara duman atıyor yağ eksiltiyor turbo borularına baktım bariz yağ vardı. birde motor dengesiz çalışıyor titriyor g.antepdeki ustalara götürdüm hiçbiri yapamadı sizce sorun nedir
+Eyup Yilmaz O tekleme ve zengin çalışan gibi geliyor . - czcams.com/video/Sg7iFytxfzQ/video.html
Great video but i ran into a problem with mine. It looks as if the previous owner changed the ect sensor on my '95 960, but instead of the square connector, someone just crimped the two wires together. I bought a sensor with a two pronged connector, so how do i know which wire is which and what will happen if i cross them up?
I don't think it matters. The treads of the sensor is the ground.
Well i got the new one on, it cranked right up as before but within 2 or 3 minutes it was sputtering like crazy and then shutoff and wouldnt statt again...any ideas? Did i break it?
I have no idea. Take it to a Volvo shop to check out. Is there any codes in the system.
i don't know how to get the codes, all i know is the symptoms and then i google them and what i come up with i try to test them from there. you might be surprised at how many google searches lead me back to you :)
when i search what is going on now, i get something about an air filter or air flow sensor.
does that sound like something you have experienced?
Hey Robert, I have an issue with my 1992 Volvo 740 turbo. When warm, it idles very high at 1300-1400rpm instead of 800-900rpm. Please help! Thank you.
+SwagCraft99 is the check engine light on?
+SwagCraft99 czcams.com/video/NhtUXZTurzo/video.html
Robert DIY No, the check engine light is on but the idling is very high.
Huh? Me: Is the check engine light on? You: No, yes...
Robert DIY I apologize, no the check engine light is off but idle is high on warm starts.
My 1996 940 wagon has a dead temp cauge and the fan doesn't start unless i have the AC on. Could it be the thermostat/temp sensor? The Lambda light is also on and idle is a bit jumpy (jumps 50-100 rpm)
Did you scan it for codes?
Fan should not come on unless the coolant temp reaches 215°.
@@RobertDIY It doesnt start at all. Not even after hard driving
Did you test the fan?
@@RobertDIY The fan works, it starts up when AC is on but doesn't start at all without AC. Not even when hot
I have a volvo 940 1994 turbo I am having an issue with the fan kicking on and my temp hand will get up to normal driving temp and then drop to cold and not move any suggestions? I think it is the temp sensor
+Kisha Cook My guess would be the temp sensor. Could also be the cluster going bad. You can get an ohm meter and check the sensor. Not sure what the readings should be, maybe check a manual.
Ok ty very much I purchased the sensor just got to find someone to put it on hopefully that will fix the issue
Hye my volvo 940 starts fine, however when i put it in gear while pressing the brakes the idle becomes rough & jutters which dissapears when i m driving. What should i check?
MAF
czcams.com/video/bfeiZxhJgxY/video.html
Thank you for your reply Robert, my obd keeps displaying error code 231 which part should i check besides the MAF sensor
Hey Robert I have cold start issues, I changed my ECT Sensor, MAF Sensor, new battery terminals and cables, and new battery. What could it be? The car runs rich currently and I ordered a fuel pump relay because thats my next concern.
My issue was the fuel pressure regulator. What kind of car do you have?
Probably the cold start injector.
1990 volvo 740 gl
Was it the cold start injector? Have the same scenario.
hi Robert where is the coolant sensor on a 98 s90. thanks
Bottom side of the thermostat housing.
Robert DIY thank you
I did this and got a check engine light on, any help?
Does your car have the OBD1 tool?
@@RobertDIY I just tested it and got the 1-2-3 code. Any idea what that might mean?
So the issue here was a dirty MAF or a bad Fuel Pressure Regulator?
Bad fuel pressure regulator.
Robert DIY hi Robert, after you changed the fuel regulator, did it fix the hot start problem?
OH! I almost forgot to ask!
I noticed there is another sensor to the right of the temp and knock sensor and just to the lower left of the
ECT sensor.
There is a lone wire coming out from it and it doesn't have a clamp connector as all other
connectors do (it has a regular ring wire connector attached to it).
My car is running OK, but there is No threading to attach the ring wire connector to it.
I found the connector hanging on for dear life, and realized there was no nut that was keeping the connector
to the sensor, so there was very minimal contact.
I have been searching for what kind of sensor it would be, and am super confused.
Would you be able to shed some light as to what sensors or actually on the body of
our Volvo engines or send me a link to a video where you show us what the sensors are
and where they are located?
Thank you!
+Mark Henry Cooney I guess I can. It would be quicker if you posted a picture on a Volvo forum or sent me one via text message.
Oh perfect! I'll do that (send a pic).
Ha-ha! Free videos man, I'm telling you. Pretty awesome!
Well, I noticed in the video you called a part "the EGR" and it looked similar to mine (I went online to sweedishautoparts.com and looked up my EGR but they wanted like $200+ for it. My heart sank).
I have no leaky fuel injectors as they all have new gaskets and were tested for leaks, I have a new fuel pressure regulator (made the car run 90% better) but I still failed smog and I'm still getting fuel in my oil.
I thought maybe my EGR (if that's what it is) is completely open letting in too much N.O. back into the system and therefore creating fuel rich exhaust (I still smell gas out from the back exhaust pipe).
Any "free" ideas? =D
+Mark Henry Cooney LOL, not yet. I'll need to ask around. Intake manifold good?
+Mark Henry Cooney You may want to get on the turbo brick facebook page and ask "what makes these cars run rich"?
+Mark Henry Cooney How's that for free? lol
Help! I have problems in 1995 volvo 940. When i start cold, the engine run for 3 seconds then dies. This happens for 2 or 3 attempts, and "check engine" light appears. The problem disappear when i acellerate. Fuel consumption is very high!
Have you read the error codes? Probably a bad MAF.
Thank yow. I replaced a MAF yesterday, problems disappeared.
Hi! I buy a 740 with same problem. If its not the temperature sensor...what is???
My fuel pressure.
@@RobertDIY fuel pressure regulator or fuel accumulator?
Бля, радует меня твой таз))) имею 240 1992 fb. Проблема с maf sensor ( стоит он 28000₽ (400$ ) ставлю от ГАЗ ))) тебе на зло ))
они тоже дороги в США.
I did this with a socket and extension without taking anything off,,,
Awesome! I'll go watch that video. 👌🏾
Hello
How are you?
Where is the sensor map in a volvo 940 1994?
What is a sensor map?
@@RobertDIY think he means MAF
on the drivers side close to windshield
I would say its the maf that faulty... ha ha i do read banners sometimes :-D
That temp sensor looked like a devil to get to, do you still love volvos lol :-)
zx8401ztv Yes, this car has NOT deterred my love...yet. If it were not for the other 740 I owned for 17 years, I likely would never have developed the love for them. I do still despise vehicles that have sat for several years. lol
Robert DIY I do understand, i was just joking, just checking your mood :-)
nah I would just remove the intake manifold and get it out of the way much easier I think
ok
I looked at my car 1985 Volvo 740 turbo intercooler means I'm doing well shake to eat and LPG gas cylinder fuel burning is taking a lot of black smoke depletes oil turbo pipe had obvious oil. shaking a motor running unstable
What do you think is the problemsorry for my bad english
+Eyup Yilmaz Type your message in your language and maybe I can use a translator. Is the car misfiring?
+Robert DIY yes my car is misfiring ok my language is turkish
czcams.com/video/Sg7iFytxfzQ/video.html
What was the solution? Fuel pressure regulator? EGR? MAF sensor?
+Ben quinn FPR.
Robert DIY
Can you show us on a video how the engine sounds after you installed FPR?
+Ben quinn No, I have a loose exhaust manifold so my exhaust is noisy.
Robert DIY
Just keep the camera near the engine bay and crank her to see if you have fixed it ... I will be able to see and hear the engine perform.
+Ben quinn HUH? I know mine is fixed. Have driven the car a few thousand miles since.
I have a 1990 740 automatic Volvo sedan it stalls just about every time I put in gear warm or cold. It runs great once I get it going, stop at stop lights no problem, if I shut it off and restart, it stalls. I have to start it rev it slam it into gear just to get it moving now. I just got it 3 weeks ago and it ran great what went wrong ??? HELP it's my first VOLVO
Is the check engine light on?
@@RobertDIY It goes out about 1 minute after it starts
Check engine or service?
I really don't know what is going on. You may want to post your issue on a turbo bricks board.
@@RobertDIY Well it wasn't raining today so I took another look at it and started cleaning wire connections, using the MAF cleaning spray on all the connections that I could get at under the hood. I checked the crankcase breather and found an easy way to check it, just loosen the oil filler cap and pull the hose off by the throttle intake and blow through it,it wasn't plugged at least I know the flash arrestor isn't plugged. I replaced a few vacuum lines that looked suspicious, and finally cleaned the throttle body with the proper spray and proceeded to stall the engine !?? OH OH well, it took a hell of a lot of cranking, but it finally came to life. Well it doesn't stall anymore when I shift it into gear, the final test will be tomorrow as I have a doctors appointment, I will be leaving early just in case WELL THANKS FOR TRYING TO HELP ME OUT KEN
Why replace sensor without testing it first???
Because I don't know how to test it.
so... the main issue Was the MAF? Did anyone catch what EXACTLY the issue was?
My 1985 Volvo 240 DL 2.3 is acting incredibly similar. it's uncanny.
+Mark Henry Cooney Fuel pressure regulator.
Ah! Thank you!!
+Robert DIY where did you go online to get a good deal for your FPR?
You can get one from FCP. I probably got mine from the junk yard.
+Robert DIY thanks so much! I should probably check the local pick and pull. great channel, by the way. excellent videos.
What's a Temp sensor? Can I install a permanent sensor instead?
Sure can.
I should try this, explain everything like your teaching a beginner,,, what's a Temporary Sensor? is it meant to be replaced after a short time? why don't they make a permanent sensor?
Temperature sensor
UDDER 3 THE CYLINDER? INSIDE THE OIL PAN???
Yep
Too cheap to buy Mann oil filters??
Huh?
@@RobertDIY Mann Oil filter, original equipment for Volvo made in Germany
@@@campervanelvisitoofonyou8720 As long as your using an OEM spec filter, you don't need mann.
In my country where volvo dealership has gone and original or OEM spare part is very hard to find we use toyota oil filter which designated for toyota innova or fortuner...
you didn't fix the exhaust leak,,, lol
Yes, I did.
I wonder if this idiom is made up. sounds like a gta character. ;)
dontneedonethx Huh?
Are you kidding me?..do you think a volvo 240 or 740 had any kind of computer in?..we talking about 40 and 45 years old cars!!
Yep computers. Fuel management computers. Whenever you see a fuel injector on each cylinder, a computer is controlling those things.
Lol, good play,,, after damaging vacuum house, pretend you found the problem and fixed it at no charge as a courtesy,, be sure to tell customer,,,
Well, seeing that it's my car I guess I don't have no one to tell but myself.
@@RobertDIY Ignore this person robert. He is just talking trash. What a jackass.
LOL,, This guy called a 90 Volvo a "modern day vehico" Etc? 30 years old is not modern day,,, hybrids or electrics or some Direct infected small displacement turbo car with a10 speed automatic and 20 onboard computers OB2 and CAN nuts everywhere maybe that's modern day,,,
Dude, they still make cars like this. Fuel injected, air bags, MAF's.