STEEL Reinforced 3D Print - Ultimate Workbench Build!
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- čas přidán 23. 11. 2023
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We need to build a better bench, and in this video we will do just that! Customizing my workbench in the studio for 3d printer build projects, using steel reinforced 3d prints! Yep, embedding steel into 3d printed parts to make them stronger & customize my desk setup. Modular and customizable extrusion mounts at each end of the desk, and more!
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*** MacBook Pro 14": bhpho.to/47QNj0N
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*** Drone: amzn.to/46l13Ax
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The opinions expressed in this video are my own, from my personal experience. This is not a paid product advertisement. Please feel free to let me know what you think of this tool, or suggest alternatives I should check out. Disclaimer: This is not a paid advertisement. This video is solely my opinions from the use of these products and based on the specifications of them. Some of the links provided are AFFILIATE LINKS. Affiliate links give the MandicReally a small advertising fee for every purchase made via those links. This does not cost you anything more than if you purchased them normally, but helps support further video production.
#mandicreally #blackfriday #amazon #standingdesk #flexispotus - Věda a technologie
Dude you killed it. Not only in video and editing but also all the designs and fabrication you did for a desk video. I have a video on the FlexiSpot E7QB coming out in a day or two and it’s super cool to see what you did with the extrusions. Well done.
Adhd is mastering chaos 😁👍
Or it mastering you. 🙃😅
Ergotron LX monitor arm... buy once, cry once! Great video love the content.
Quite a few recommendations of that. May have to give it a go. 👌🏻👌🏻
@@MandicReally Late reply, but I just came across your channel. You do some awesome work here dude! And yes, by far, ergotron LX! I have two of the LX sit-stand versions branded by omnimount and they're amazing. I should have grabbed a couple more when they were clearing them out for $99 before the omnimount closure.
if i had a nickel for every workbench video i've seen this week i'd have two nickels, which isn't a lot but it's weird that it's happened twice
Same here. The Pedulla Studio bench is amazing
@@Luke-qf3ue oh dang that thing's sick. i wasn't even talking about theirs tho, i was talking about John Malecki's from i think a few weeks ago
Ergotron LX monitor arm or the Amazon Basics version is very solid and there’s the HX version if that’s not enough.
Just a thought, run another section of extrusion across the top to the two corner extrusions. This could be used for camera and/or light mounts for overhead shots.
Same thought I had. You could use mini DIN rails for easy swapping of gear on the 2040 extrusion, too.
Great idea. 👍🏻 That was exactly what this design was meant to be originally. I’m going to try just the two posts for now and see how it goes. I’d need to source longer extrusions for that (obviously) which drives the price up significantly. I originally thought about mounting linear rails to that top extrusion so I could quickly reposition lights / camera. Maybe eventually I’ll do it.
@@MandicReally If you do it, which I was also going to suggest, you could maybe make an adapter to mount your monitor to it and be able to slide it across the extrusion to be where you need it while working at different places.
Ergotron Monitors arms.. They are expensive, but they are great, they'll never be completly without movement, but I have a 42" OLED TV hanging on one and its great, it is a version meant for heavy monitors though.
I’ll give them a look. I really want to swap my multi monitors to a single large OLED, so it may be if use to me for that.
Another vote for Ergotron monitor mounts. They're expensive, but they beat the pants off of the cheaper competition.
Really love this design. I have a good sit/stand desk and mounting extrusion to it to mount more stuff to it makes so much sense!
I'm very tempted to do it on my main work desk too. I have a light stand on the corner that is too short for the height I need the light at...
Great video. Super rad design. Interesting with the embedded steel. Mahalo for sharing!
Thank you very much. It was a fun project.
Try Arctic X1-3D for monitor arm. It is also 12cm higher than standard (made in prc) arms at 40cm.
So with the steel plates: what about printing a small 1-3 layer thick section that you place on top of the steel as you insert it? That way you don't have the nozzle interfacing with the steel, just with regular plastic. Not sure it would work but might be worth trying
Getting the dimensions right is difficult. Steel isn't really available in Layer height sizes. That isn't a bad idea though. I'll as it to the list of ideas for future testing.
@@MandicReally yeah, you can try and compensate for the thickness by having the intermediate layer be different layer thicknesses than the rest of the print. So if you're doing a 0.2mm layer print for the main piece, and the steel is 7.92mm, you can do a 0.8mm layer print to get it to a nice even number. You of course can't get everything solved, but with the first layer thickness you can do a different layer from the rest to solve for prime numbers.
I love watching your build videos. I loved watching hotrod hippie and miss it. I desperately need to do something with my work area.
If I can inspire folks even a little, I’ve done my job. Thank you very much. Making stuff from metal made me realize how much I missed it. Not the mess it made though. 😅😅
1:15 bro I just noticed those holes in your ears for the first time. That light behind really helped lol btw, nice build. Love the idea of embedding steel into the 3d part for more rigidity, but still having flexibility of manufacturing with 3d printing.
Thanks. I could have just use the steel plates but they’d be ugly and less functional. The finished parts have cable routing and look so much sleeker, but retain the steel strength.
@@MandicReally yeah I agree. I think 3d printing gives it a more finished look here and it's also more cost effective and easier to do such a shape compared to doing full steel.
15:10 wait, is that an LGR video in the background? Sure i watched that vid this morning!
I was wondering how long until someone spotted that Easter egg. Also tells you when I finished this video. 😅😴😴
Damn I wish I had 1/4 of your smarts, in 3d modeling and design. Great job. You really make me look dumb on my channel lol.
Thank you very much. Everyone has their things that work for them, and not everyone is gonna enjoy me or what I do. You do you and be true to that. That counts for a ton.
I really want to learn 3D Modeling/ design. What is the best program to start with or course to learn, made for dummy old veterans like me.
I have been thinking of making a 4040 extrusion desk!!!
It allows for SO MUCH customizability. Definitely look around and thinking I need to add more.
you deserve minimum million subs
Much appreciated. Maybe someday? Who knows I’ll just keep doing my thing and what happens happens. Thanks.
Great video, I've been doing the same thing for a lot of my functional parts that carry more load than I'm comfortable with. It was a bit reassuring to see that you had some of the same problems that i had when i started. Now i know I'm not a total doofus.
You could've added a thin piece of fabric on top of the metal plate (with some overlap to the plastic part) to make printing the next layers easier. Or just run some crossing strings over it to provide some extra points of adhesion to the filament.
Just built a similar desk using the Flexispot E7 frame and an Ikea Karlby 74" x 42" kitchen island for the desktop
It's holding 2 heavy core-xy printers and a watercooled super-sized tower pc
It rises slowly, but it still has good torque and stability, better than I expected to be honest
Also, the Flexispot casters are fantastic! They were worth the thirty bucks (think they're cheaper if you get them at the same time as a frame)
I’ll have to look into the casters. I chose to not get them cause I move this desk so infrequently, but it would be nice to have. Glad to hear the E7 is working out for you.
Have you considered the closed loop steppers that stop layer shifts. Teaching Tech has a great video on them. If layer shifts are an issue they are the way to go probably. Great video. Have an amazing day!
I've long given up on a monitor mount without any wiggle. Adapt, react, adapt again.
Awesome video! Did you maybe consider cutting a sheet of PEI to stick to the steel so the print surface might have adhered to it better? Not ideal, but if you got some lying around it might be worth a try.
The steel is recessed by approximately 1 layer height to prevent collision. So that wouldn’t make up the thickness there. I’ve got some ideas to experiment with in future videos. 👍🏻👍🏻
@@MandicReally looking forward to it. Appreciate the response and love the style of video your doing. Keep it up
For the printing over steel, could you put a slab modifier in your part that was 1 or 2 layers thick at the height of the top of the steel? Set the modifier to solid bottom layers and even the print angle. Then it wouldnt try to do the circle features and bridge as expected. Im armchair quarterbacking though, I havent tried this yet myself. Just a thought. Also for the top extrusion, since the risers are strong enough, you wouldn't necessarily need 4040 maybe 2040 to help cut down on cost? Either way it turned out great. I would like to know your adversion to layout fluid (sharpie works great, just curious).
I like the VIVO dual monitor mounts however it might require some fabrication for the 4040 extrusion.
I use those with my main desk. They are ok, but this one needs much more adjustability unfortunately.
@@MandicReally custom t-nuts with quick release handle allowing the vertical movement along with VIVO monitor mount or the horizontal movement? Sounds like a good resellable design for others?
What camera slider are you using? Would also love to see a behind the scenes of the filming setup!
any plans on making it friendly to follow for a beginner? i.e. tips on sourcing the cut metal plates?
Folks seem really intrigued by this whole thing, so I think I’ll do a video breaking it down a little more outside of a project. I can include some design & service recommendations in there to make it more accessible. 👌🏻👌🏻
Hi man ! May I ask a silver thing with glass top sit next to you on the old desk is that a scale ? If so what it call ? Thanks you
11:27 "Two" ? ahahah
Just ordered two e7 plus' for my new office. 4 legs better 😁
Oooh, that may be the way for my next workbench build. I want a bigger bench on the other side of the studio for bigger project.
Looking forward to that video 😁
I wonder if you had some extra holes though the steel with printed pegs in the model so you had something to grab the plastic when you where bridging over the plate
That is one of the techniques I intend to try next time I do this. 👌🏻👌🏻 It will be a balance of strength of the steel & the print design, but worth trying.
nice video. just an idea .... what about wrap the metal with plastic film ... ... would the filament stick better ????
It probably would but the steel isn’t flat, and getting the “offset” right to get a “good first layer” on the steel is challenge that isn’t worth it IMO. I think I’ve learned some lessons here that I will apply to future tests & projects to improve. Bridging over the steel in a better way is the best idea I think.
What is that bench top power supply you are using unde the soldering iron? I couldn't make out the logo.
It is one off Amazon that fit the specs I wanted. I haven’t tested it heavily but use it to power LEDs, fans, and random items for bench testing. amzn.to/3MZnm7m (affiliate link)
That looks really nice. I may just have to pick one up! Thanks!
So how would you go about making sure you only had straight bridging above the metal insert? Is there a way to do so in the slicer, or would you have to design sacrificial bridging into the part on the layer above?
There isn't a way to correct for this particular design in slicer. It has to be in the design itself. It is hard to explain through text. I'll try and do a follow-up where I show the method. But it just requires ensuring the layer above the metal only has paths that make sense to go 1 direction with them.
Are you putting that weller shelf stl up for sale/thangs
Wasn’t sure if there would be interest in it. I’ll drop it on Thangs later today and come back to comment the link.
@mandicreally did you ever drop the STL?
Bro, forget the setup. All of these panning shots are stellar
Awww shucks thanks! I try.
I have 2 Voron 2.4 machines, one with TAP, and one with the stock end stop. I have been debating if I really think TAP is the best solution for me? It has some great advantageous, but also some obstacles. Being able to rehome Z mid print is a solid no-go obstacle with TAP.
Yea I was thinking about that after this. I haven’t tried tap as it adds more weight and possible movement points to the Toolhead. I see now the homing of Z could be an issue for me too. There is no “one size fits all” answer I guess.
Good video! I have a question to someone with experience though. I’m on the line between getting the X1C and P1S. Is the X1C worth the extra money. The Black Friday sale is better on it.
Depends on your needs. If you are primarily printing PLA / PETG, the P1S will do the job well and cheaper. If you’re wanting to print higher temp materials like ABS, ASA, Nylon, the X1 bed goes to a higher temp which is a necessity. You can do some ABS/ASA w/ P1S but I’d recommend the X1 over it for that. Also the X1 touchscreen is a light years better user interface than the P1S control pad. If you get the P1S I’d largely consider it “headless” and operate it from a computer since the screen is so bad.
Hope that answers your questions. Here is my affiliate link for the Black Friday Deals: tinyurl.com/BambuBlackFriday
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What taps/handles do you use? Not impressed with the cheapo set I have from AliExpress, and may someday look to upgrade.
Matco branded ones. Which are rebranded Irwin ones. This is the set I have & use just branded from Irwin: amzn.to/3sOTG5U (affiliate link)
here is what i do when i put steel or fiberglass rods or metal rods into prints. is i make it so can slide the metal in after printed. glue a insert in access panel. with a lil glue with the metal then it all bonds as 1. you are welcome i just saved you tons of headaches and failed prints but added some design time :) love you lol but not in a prison kinda way.
Having done multiple monitor arms through varying sizes of monitors... If you have any sort of articulation via hydraulic you're going to have wiggle. Even the high end Ergotron stuff wiggles. :(
Did you adjust the pre-tension on the monitor Arm? Because they are made for a range of weights and you need to adjust the pretention screw to adjust for your Monitor :)
Yep. It will stay in whatever position I place it in no problem. That sadly doesn’t do anything to help with the wiggle. It’s a bit of play in all the joints and leverage adding up to, shakes.
Have you looked in on making a discord server?
I’ve been asked a handful of times. The problem for me is I simply don’t have time to moderate or interact with it on a regular basis. I’d have to find people I could trust to do so to my standards and that’s a whole process. I’ve been leaning more and more toward doing it lately though.
Why not use STEEL Filament? Yes, STEEL PLA is a thing and its the most densest material you can print with....its also just as expensive at around $50 for a 500g spool. There is also Iron PLA that is magnetic (ferrous) too.
Neither of those offer ANY strength benefit. They arguably hurt strength. They may be "Dense" but that has nothing to do with overall tensile or deflection strength. They both are just PLA with fine Iron or Steel powder embedded in them. Which has the potential to reduce layer adhesion as the steel/iron dust doesn't adhere to PLA as well as PLA does to PLA. They are neat for silly fun prints or if you want added weight, but offer NO strength benefit.
I've been meaning to print a SledgeHammer with IRON PLA for a while (I've got a 2kg spool around somewhere).
I hate monitor arms. They all wiggle too much IME. Instead, I've taken to mounting the monitor to the wall behind the desk... Which isn't really an option in your setup.
With all the prep you had to put into that steel insert, and all the problems after, I would totally do that differently. I'd either design the print as 2 pieces and use threaded inserts... Or just not have a bottom on it at all, and simply sandwich it to the bench with the steel plate exposed on the bottom. But then again, I'm quite a chicken about things that have to be done during the middle of a print, and I avoid them as much as possible. ;)
Im going to revisit the idea with lessons I’ve learned. I think I can improve substantially and maybe do some experiments soon. Folks have asked for input on getting parts cut for them too, so may be worthwhile to do a whole video exploring it more.
be carefull when you grind steel...fck eyes or skin but glass is something what can be really easily dameged by that litlle sparks
If you don't care about layer separation in mentioned position - why not just two parts and metal in between? Will save you a lot of time and hassle. Looks like overengineering for nothing.
Not every project will have the same constraints. It wouldn’t be hard to redesign and prevent that issue from occurring. It was just a constraint I missed at the onset and couldn’t afford the time to go back and correct. The parts would be stronger without the layer issues, and look better aesthetically.