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Motorcycle Auxiliary Lights - Install and Review of the Denali DR1 LED Lights on a Yamaha Ténéré 700
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- čas přidán 31. 07. 2024
- Installation and review of the Denali DR1 LED light kit with some modifications on a Yamaha Ténéré 700 motorcycle.
The modifications are:
- Hi-Off-Low Switch - instead of On-Off Switch
- Dual Intensity Controller instead of Standard Relay
- Installation of a 3 prong connector in order to hook into the Yamaha's wiring harness instead of connecting the lights to the battery, in order for the lights to switch on/off when turning the ignition key; i.e. the bike on/off.
Also, you the white trigger wire in the kit is not just for show...
Exactly the type of CZcams video you want. An "amateur" who loves what he does and gets straight to the point.
Great idea to use pieces of bicycle tubes to protect the crash bars. Thanks for sharing!
Nice idea using the bicycle inner tube
Would of liked to see the important part , which is the wiring installation.
Thanks for this great video. Would you please point out the specific model of the Sumitomo MT Series connectors from Cycle Terminal ?
Hi. I'm trying to connect simple LED lights that could work together with Hi beam lights. But the problem is that when I turn on hi beam, voltage on the cable drops down to 0,88 V or something like that. So normal relay doesn't work. Do I need some special relay or how can I connect this some other way? Sorry for my English. I hope that you understand what I mean.
The lights are looking real good, as the colour temperature match.
I guess Im randomly asking but does anyone know a tool to log back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid lost my password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Zion Zechariah Instablaster :)
THANKS
Hello. I just purchased a Denali D4 kit for my tenere 700. I will be running the Denali harness to the left side of the bike. I have a simple question: I don't know what to do with the white thread. Where do I plug it in? With what ? Should I buy a terminal to put it on the battery at the positive terminal? So far the accessories I have plugged in (heated glove and a battery optimizer) only had two wires. Cordially.
What are the hand guard protectors?
I’m going to install a small led ramp, 1.16 Amp.
And I want it to be high beam only. Wouldn’t be safe to connect straight to high beam cable. Not a lot of amps, need to check the oem headlight high beam amps and the fuse for it.
Probably not. The power to the headlights on the Ténéré 700 comes from the Engine Control Unit (ECU) and are probably not 12 volts, i.e. will not work with traditional relays. Having talked to people having issues with tapping into the headlight wires, I would not recommend it. There are workarounds out there, but I have not looked into them, yet...
I think of buying a pair of these, for a cafe racer project to use as double main headlight. I guess i can wire low and high beam to both of them. Is it right? Also i'm looking for a bargain price, if i can find...
Yes, you can wire high and low strength on both lights. That is the setup on the Ténéré 700 here.
Good Luck with your project!
How much draw is too much for that splitter that you use. I already have a garmin zumo xt hooked up to the one on the right side. Could I run six lights there too?
Aux lights I mean
The three auxiliary ports are all connected to the same fuse that is rated at 10 Amps. Amps x Volt = Watts; i.e. 10 Amps x 12 Volt = 120 Watts. So, as long as the total draw on the three auxiliary ports does not exceed 120 watts you are fine. And if the lights you are installing are LEDs and not Halogens you are probably fine.
The Denali DR1 lights I have installed draws 1.6 Amps = 19 Watts.
on your three prong connector what wires go to which as far as the lights wired against the bike wiring
if you look at the male three prong connector so the plastic pin is at the bottom, the bottom right terminal is ground, the other two terminals are positive.
Just double check on the bike, two of the wires coming into the connectors on the bike are red/white (positive) while one wire is black (ground).
I'm confused a bit. At 4:59 you show the connector plug for the T7 accessory port w/ the upgraded relay and on/off/high switch. Where did you get the T7 plug and on/off/high switch? Is this a kit that comes from Denali or did you source these from somewhere else? Thanks!
The LED light kit comes from Denali with two lights, the on-off switch and a wiring loom.
I added the low-off-high switch together with the dual density controller from Denali (the low-high does not work without the dual density controller), and the "Sumitomo MT Series" connector from Cycle Terminal.
A correct crimping tool/plier is recommended in order to crimp the wire onto the wire barrel/terminal inside the connector: amzn.to/3rWauSl
👍👍
Thank you ever so much for the well detailed information. May I ask what type of HIGH OFF LOW switch I should I be looking for? Are there any specific technical requirements on that switch. I just want to make sure I am buying the right one.
In order for the High-Off-Low to work on the Denali DR1 2.0 lights, you need the following two parts:
- Denali 2.0 DataDim Dual-Intensity Controller and
- Denali 2.0 Dryseal Hi-Low-Off Waterproof Switch
@@orbsurfer8195 Thank you again for your assistance and I am sorry for this other question as the dual intensity controller is so new to me. You got your spot lights connected to your low beams. Is there a reason for that as opposed to connecting them to high beam? When you switch from low beam (with your spot lights on) to high beams, are the spot lights still on with the same intensity ? Meaning that the spot lights are always on whether you are on low or high beam and that I will only use the hi-low-off switch to modulate or switch off the intensity?
The auxiliary lights are not connected to the headlights on the bike, the reason being that the headlights are LEDs and it is not as easy to connect to modern LEDs as the older style halogen lights. Older style halogen has separate 12 volt input for the high and low beams that you use as inputs to relays to trigger the auxiliary lights.
I am living in the Deep South of the US, and I am sad to say the way people drive here is scary, to put it mildly; texting and driving etc., so I use the auxiliary lights just to be more visible; i.e. as low beams.
I am from Northern Europe, and I NEVER, see people playing with their phones while driving there, so in Northern Europe I would use the lights as auxiliary high beams, just a different aim.
On the Denali DR1 lights, the aim is the same on low and high intensity, it is just the amount of light that is probably cut in half on low beam. Most modern LEDs do this by switching on and off the lights at a high frequency at low output, the reason you see LED lights flicker in videos.
The reason I choose the Low-Off-High switch is that when driving for days in areas with low population density, I just aim the lights a little higher and use the "full force" at night, but have the availability to use the low output in more populated areas without blinding people.
I do notice a big difference here in the Deep South with additional lights up front. Drivers coming from side roads tends to wait until I pass at a higher degree than before I mounted the auxiliary lights.
@@orbsurfer8195 Hello again and thank you for your help and information.
I ride a 650 Kawasaki Vulcan S with halogen headlight so I will be good with the separate 12v power input to trigger the LED spot lights.
I am a late rider (I passed my license at the age of 52) and therefore intend to ride as much as possible in my spare time. Day ride, I already wear high viz jacket including helmet, so am not too concern in increasing my visibility but I agree with you , it is undeniable safety add-on.
The DR1 spot lights are for night riding because I live in the UK with short natural light, poor weather conditions and because the bike original manufacturer headlight is incredibly poor at night.
So for my purpose here are my 2 options for night riding with the Dual-Intensity Controller:
1-) DR1 High aim position + DR1 high intensity + low beam
= if incoming traffic, I only change DR1 LOW intensity but
is the Hi-Low-Off Switch easy to use at night or is it not meant to be used for that purpose?
2-) DR1 Low aim position + DR1 high intensity + high beam
=
if incoming traffic, I only change to LOW Beam and I still have great visibility around me.
In both options, Daylight riding is DR1 LOW intensity + low beam.
@@chrystellelaporte7837 I have visited Great Britain several times, beautiful islands!
On my Ténéré 700 the High-Off-Low switch is mounted on the left hand side of the handlebar, and the switch is very easy to access, even with gloves.
Maybe u don’t do much dirt riding but where u have them placed i can’t help but imagine that they would get ripped off or otherwise damaged if u dump your bike? I mean they are on the outside of the crash bar.
Not much real dirt, just rough roads! Maybe I should make a cage around the lights! :-)
@@orbsurfer8195 they stand a good chance of damage in a simple roll over. I would move them inboard if possible. Have been looking at these for awhile, good informative vid. Thanks
My thoughts exactly. The worst part is that they can twist in a fall and damage the plastic.
AUX lights add much safety to street riding.
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