Thx Todd - followed your video exactly - fridge back working - 100% - really appreciate the time and effort you've put in to this video - so useful. You saved our fridge going to landfill.
Todd - thank you so much for putting this video together - it was a life saver. My parents Bosch refrigerator stopped working with the same symptoms not cooling, alarm on screen, and beeping. The earliest we could find a tech to come out was over 1 week. I found this video and was able to diagonsis the problem and replace the inverter board. The problem is not fixed! Thank yoU!!
Thank you very much for the video!My husband just fixed our fridge. (We got the part from eBay for $300). We did not have to bring this refrigerator to scrap metal place!
Todd, It runs sweet. If you are ever in Utah I would thank you personally. Bought a cheap $70 inverter on Amazon with all the same inputs and outputs and plugins etc. And it's back to purring and making everything cold. SWEET.
Hello, Same exact fridge here and same problem. Did the same exam got the same #s on the voltage and dc voltage and same on the compressor ohms resistance. Ordering a OEM unit from parts doctor. Thanks for the knowledge. You saved me $$$$ from a service repair bill.
Merci Todd, my fridge is saved! Let me know if one day you are in Montreal, I owe you a beer! I bought an OEM Invertec part from Amazon with free one day delivery. Worked like a charm! Nice fit in my Bosch B22CS30SNS/01. Note that I had to rotate the compressor connector 120 degrees to have enough space for the wires and be able to secure the module to the compressor (this cause no problem with a 3 phases DC compressor having connections isolated from ground).
I read on the Bosch tech support site, that the replacement inverter needs to have the exact same voltage and control signal... Did you verify this is true for yours? Or is it working otherwise?
Thank you very much, worked on one just like this today going to get replacement inverter tomorrow, not buy stock one either. I'm sure this is the problem. Thanks for continuing my education. Keep it up
I got new inverter. Still didn't work. Took it apart again and found one of the wires in the connector was slipping out and wasn't clipped onto the motor. Worked fine after making sure it clipped on correctly.
Todd, I believe the compressor is NOT a DC motor, but a 3 phase AC motor. The inverter converts single phase AC to DC and then to 3 phase AC at 150Hz. It says so right on the label in the "output" section. Otherwise a great video and thank you.
If it is an AC style compressor it will run off of an ac style start run relay device. Check with your preferred appliance parts supplier for appropriate style, and part number.
Would have liked to see you turn it on and verify that the compressor is running.I've just ordered an invertor as all my readings are the same as yours.I'm a bit concerned about the 2.5volts signal voltage...as some one has already said...usually it has to be higher...5 volts and upwards.
Most of the manufacturers have different communication voltage specifications, though most of them are the embraco system. I dont think I've ever seen the exact reading match the actual spec. Typically if there is a voltage value at that communication cable it will run. If theres no value then the control that feeds that voltage is bad. Its seldom that the inverter, and control fail at the same time
Thank you for posting the video Todd! I replaced the inverter, but it's still not cooling. When I plug it in, I can hear the compressor starting up fine, but then slowly winding down and can barely hear it. It does not stop completely and it does not get warm, but it's still not cooling. I'm getting 2.3V control voltage and I also checked the compressor resistance, everything is good so far. What could be the issue? Another bad inverter? Thanks!
I'm thinking the signal voltage has to be higher(4 volts and upwards) but its more complicated than that..the frequency also has to be higher..its not a pure dc input....its a square wave.My compressor did exactly the same thing when i replaced the invertor.Now thinking it a control board problem.
I did everything you said. Seemed like it would work but even though I have all the correct voltages it still did not work. Wondering if you think it is the circuit board. I get the 122v. I get 6 vdc on com cable and 6 ohms between pins. Any idea. Thanks Rick. Video was great
Hmmmmm, I would say its a bad compressor then. Is the inverter that you purchased a new oem part? It is possible that the part is bad. Of the 200 + inverters I have replaced there have been a couple failed compressors with that scenario
Would you send me a video of what you were doing with the inverter box. Our Bosch has the same problem but we can't afford to get a new one or have it fixed are daughter is getting married and it's a big sticker shock. Thanks much for the help, great channel.
@@toddolsen995 I'm not sure what that reply means. I was excited to see this repair as I have the same fridge and same problem (if the compressor is okay). Your video was great until you stared doing things to the inverter off camera. Wish I could see what you were doing.
@@corrie-annclutchey6780 Those are all of the details that I have available. A common degree of electrical knowledge, troubleshooting, and metering ability is paramount for this type of repair. If you have the correct inverter replacement part number, the wiring from the old component should connect to the new one with relative ease. Check the voltage values on the old device, which should be around 110 to 120 volts at the power supply line, and 2 to 8 volts at the smaller communication wires. Then ohm out the three pins at the side of the compressor. All ohm values should read the same between the pin combinations at the side of the compressor. Between roughly 5 and 9 ohms. If they read proper, then it's time to install the new inverter run device. Take a picture of the old wiring, and set the new one up identical to the old one. It the ohm values at the compressor are not the same, it's time to shop for a new fridge. If they are the same the new inverter will most likely make the unit work again.
@@toddolsen995 You don't understand corrie-ann's question. The question really is: How to switch the old cabling for new? ESPECIALLY those metal U shaped connectors connecting to prongs. They do not just pull out or or disconnect like the white plastic connectors. And they are CONNECTED TIGHT.
Mr. Todd - Thanks for this invaluable video. Now, my fan - that blows towards the condenser is not working, would you have pointers/any guidance. Make/model is ditto. Bosch refrigerator b26ft70sns. NO success upon replacing fan motor. I was unable to confirm 13v DC power to the motor. I am unable to locate the source / trace the concealed cable either.
If thats the case i would check the wiring to the fan from the voltage source confirming continuity at these connections. Voltage should be coming from the electronic control that feeds it. If there's not a wiring diagram you may have to call bosch to get one. Confirmation of intact wiring is key in the first place though, thats where most people get it wrong but just ordering parts that may not be needed. Thorough multimetering cannot be overlooked.
Hi Todd - thanks for sharing - great video. My frige/freezer (B22CS80SNS/01, 12 years old) stopped cooling completely one day. The evaporators are dry, the compressor & fan running and the inverter voltages match your video. The condenser had a lot dust that I blew out. Service tech thought it was compressor or system leak. Any other suggestions that I could fix?
hello Todd i hope you can help me here I have a bosch b36cl80sns/07 fridge and my fridge is dead. i have 110 power in and going to the ice maker but nothing else. can you tell me the voltage that is supposed to come out of the power module to the main board. Bosch cannot or does not want to help.the fridge is only 14 months old.any help would be appreciated thanks
Sorry, i didnt get a message notification. Without the actaual wiring diagram im shooting a bit blind, but generally I'd tape the door switches, and see if the interior fan(s) are cycling, if so go the the compressor, and meter voltage there. If all is quiet, and no volts at the compressor pull the main board, check connectors at or near it. Can u get a diagram from bosch? If not inspect the board for damaged relays, signs of arcing, etc....do we have good neutral, and ground? Its hard to aalk through without the proper diagram, but turning over as many stones possible will help eliminate potential non issues.
Hi Todd. I did all the tests and have the same problem as this fridge. What is the part number for the invertor you used? My Bosch is a B22cs30sns/01 and the invertor part number from Bosch is 00647583. The Bosch invertor is $300-400. Is there a cheaper invertor that will work? Thanks!
If that's what the supplier specified, that is the one I would use. There are several inverters available. Problem is, they don't always label the output voltage, and communication specifications. If you hook up the wrong one it's possible to damage the compressor, then at that point you'd be shopping for a new unit.
Please buy a cheap fridge working better then Bosch, I have very bad experience with Bosch fridge and just working during time of guaranty no more Bosch and we should inform everyone about it
Hey Todd, my Bosch refrigerator appears to be the exact same model as the one in this video... It recently stopped cooling, however, the screen has never worked since I bought the fridge used 5 years ago. I don't know where to find a replacement inverter... Do you? Also, do you know how to reset/activate the screen? Thank you for your help!
Repair clinic.com or reliable parts. It would be best to call them to make sure you're getting the correct part number. The screen runs on power provided from the communication control board which is on top of the unit. These operate on DC voltage, and would have to be metered to determine the fail point. If there's voltage at the screen then the screens bad. If no voltage then the comm board is bad.
These days its whichever one ge has in stock. Hard to say exactly which one your unit needs though. Its always best to do a part number lookup with the manufacturer though. The ones I stock are typically the wr49x10283 or wr87x29409 are similar. Thing is these are dc voltage for the communication wires. Some run ac current for the comm wires. Those are pretty rare in our area though, and I can't remember the part number for those
Does the inverter box control the evaporator and condenser fan as well? I have a bosch refrigerator and when I first plug it in I can stick my ear to the refrigerator and I can hear the compressor come on for a few seconds then kick back off but the fans are not coming on either is that the inverter box that's causing that?
Most of these failed inverter jobs i go to the cooling fan(s) are still running, but the compressor is not. To date I cannot say that I have seen an inverter control the fan(s). If the compressor kicks off i would be concerned about one of the windings having an issue. You'd have to meter for proper voltage at the inverter, if that's present remove the inverter, and meter the ohm values between the hermetic pins.
Not sure i understand the question. If the airflow to the fridge from the freezer is full of ice you may have an issue with the defrost system, or the door may have been Left open . It will need to be thawed out if that is the case. I hope that helps
@@maklaren811 i see. Must be an obstructed dain line then. I use a steamer to clean those out. However a turkey baster with hot water may suffice. Also a piece of weedwacker line as a snake can also be effective.
Todd, We have a similar model of Bosch fridge, and I can hear/feel that the compressor is working (as its slightly warm to the touch), but we're having issues with cooling...could it still be the inverter that might need to be checked out or could their be some other culprit at work? I ran the self check for the fridge after powering it off for a few minutes, and it cycled through L1-L15, and no E flashed up during the cycle.
@@toddolsen995 It had been, but we unplugged it and let the ice that had accumulated thaw for 24 hours until it looked like no additional water had accumulated in the bottom of the freezer....plugged it back in and let it run for a bit. It still wasn't cooling, but had apparently accumulated quite a bit of water in the drip pan again, so I revaccumed it out, used a can of compressed air and the vacuum again to suck out as much of the loose dust that remained from cleaning it earlier and plugged it in again. I can feel the compressor running, as it's warm to the touch, hear the motor kick in and out, hear what sounds like water circulating/dripping faintly and the fans are running in both sides of the fridge and the fan in the bottom behind the compressor is free flowing and running...as I mentioned, the self test doesn't display any error to indicate an electronic failure, so I'm stumped as to what to try before calling the service company.
There are two U shaped connectors coming out of a harness and connecting to two prongs on the board. I can't detach them from the prongs. Neither original part, nor replacement. The other harnessed connectors disconnect & reconnect fine. THE QUESTION is: How to disconnect & reconnect those wires? When the repairman was doing this, he was filming the compressor while he worked outside the camera's view.
Certain wire connections have a "safety" catch at the female blade connections. They have to be depressed with a small screwdriver head. Not all models have this. They are really small to spot.
Todd, I am currently working on the exact same fridge. I ordered a “used inverter” on eBay before I found your video, I thought I troubleshooted enough to just buy a used VCC inverter. I replaced it but still same issue. I then found your video and little confusing to me is the control voltage, I measure 2.5VDC and according to other videos it has to be higher somewhere between 5 and 10. Can you tell me what I should measure. I think you said you measured 2.5VDC as well. Compressor I measure 6.5Ohms between all leads. So I am assuming compressor is good. Any advice I would highly appreciate. So far I spent only 80$ on the used inverter, I am afraid of spending 180-250 on a new inverter and find my self in the same position as I am now.
Ok, whats the actual problem? Is the compressor running just not cooling, or is it not running at all? Also, the small harness typically measures 1 to 12 volts is what i have seen. The other bigger harness needs to have 110 to 120 volts, which is the actual power. The smaller connector is the communication voltage. Backing up though, if the compressor is running but not cooling it sounds like you may have a coolant leak, or blockage.
@@toddolsen995 thanks for your reply. No the compressor is not running at all. I got 120V going into the inverter and 2.5V DC going into it as well. I measure 0V on the output of the inverter so I am assuming it is bad? As stated, I bought an used inverter of eBay, could well be that I am dealing with 2 bad inverters? Where did you buy yours? I just watched your video again and can confirm the fridge is the exact same I have.
I am curious about the 2.5V DC, as soon as I plug the fridge into 120, I measure 2.5V, the voltage doesn’t change even if I run the test mode when I push +&- for 5 seconds. Shouldn’t the control voltage at least change when compressor is being tested during the test run?
Possibly a bad inverter. I've never had issues with the communication circuit on that so I couldn't say. I typically get parts from Reliable parts. You may also have the wrong inverter. You would have to call a supplier to get the proper part number, as there's several part numbers that may work with that machine.....too many details to get into here, but that's the short of it. There are 240 volt inverters that look similar, and maybee what you have. Also used parts is a crap shoot, so hard to say.
@@toddolsen995 I bet you are right. The inverter looks slightly different though. Could well be that this one is a 230/240V inverter. That sucks, I am going to reach out to the seller. I have not thought about it yet. I’ll let you know if I find out more! Thx for your help so far! 👍🏼
You know if it's possible to replace drip trays on BOSCH CLASSIXX FRIDGES. Bad odour coming from it even after cleaning with kitchen towel and baking soda.
Best bet is to call, or stop by your local appliance part supplier with model, and serial number off the machine, and do a proper lookup. Model badge is typically inside the unit on the walls, or ceiling.
I have a Bosch B22CS50SNS/02 refrigerator much like the one in this video. Does anyone know what the purpose of the switch located under the control panel? The switch is labelled 1 and 2. Also there is a sticker right next to the switch saying "For anti-condensation heater activation, please consider information in manual. (Troubleshooting section)"
Anti condensation is typically for areas with high humidity. Turning that on helps to reduce sweating around the door jambs. Not sure on the other switch. There's probably a description in the user manual.
I have a Bosch Refrigerator Model #B26FT70SNS /02 manufactured in April 2011 . It stopped cooling and freezing today. One technician who visited today quoted me CAD $700 for replacing faulty inverter and another one quoted CAD $450. Just wondering if is worth to replace the inverter , do you have any advice for me. Thanks
Generally speaking, if the cost to repair is more than half the cost to replace it may be time to move on. Or if you do not like the features of the unit, or it needs other repairs as well, maybee time to move on. Environmentally speaking, it is much better to repair👍
Mine is worse. Got a technician to try to troubleshoot. The service total cost was $325....he said that I need to get I inverter board and another circuit board replaced. It will cost around $1200. I said no way, we will get a new non-Bosch fridge.
Blue book cost value has this job around $435 I do believe. Don't quote me for certain, but depending on your location, ease of access, etc.... charges may vary
Some of them have a safety tab built into the connectors that you have to press to release. Other than that I either use needle nose, or small flat blade screwdriver to carefully, and smoothly remove them
An important part of the repair is making sure the hermetic pins ohm out to the same resistance values. The three pins on the side of the compressor that you remove the harness wire from should read around 6 to 7 ohms of resistance in all configurations. For instance, ohm the upper 2 pins then the left to lower and right to lower....basically all configurations, and the ohm values should be the same. If not then I am skeptic of the integrity of the compressor. If they read the same values, then you should be ok with installing a new start device with proper results.
@@toddolsen995 Yeah This was the biggest part of your video and the first thing I wanted to check. I am never going to see an old refrigerator in the ally the same again. #strippingitforparts
Bosch number is a 00647583. Not sure if that subs from a different number though. It is an embraco product, so you may be able to cross reference the embraco number on the inverter to find a bit more reasonably priced unit. Bosch pricing is a bit on the high side.
@@tli311 not sure of the actual embraco number. It does have a 200D5948PO23 on it. That may or may not be the part number. I use the bosch parts as they come with our warranty work account.hope that helps!
@@tli311 Bosch number is a 00647583, EMBRACO part number might be VCC3 1156 XXX XX, The X correspond to your compressor model but also with the Fridge Model.
I don't have the part number offhand as we do not sell parts. Any supplier that you plan to purchase the part from would be glad to do the lookup. Just have your model, and serial number handy when you call them.
Perhaps turn the freezer temp to a lower setting. Sometimes the door dispenser water tube is foamed to close to the interior of the door. Can be a big problem.
Maybe. We need more information. Door switches will have to be taped shut as not all fans run when the door is open. Then if it still is not running, you'll have to meter for voltages at the wiring harnesses.
You may have to refer to your users manual on this. Generally speaking though on a bosch unit, if you hold the options and settings + buttons for 5 seconds it should display the sabbath on or off feature. Depending on the unit you may have different display buttons and setting. Bosch does have a good customer service department though. Phone number may be on the model badge on the unit, or can probably be googled fairly easy. Hope that helps, and good luck. Todd
The most important part, re-connecting the inverter, he kept to himself? Best you keep talking to yourself, it will save you a fortune on therapy. THEN , he did not show us it working, what a dimebar.
![Refrigerator Not Cooling - How to Fix - What to Check [2020]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ocOW2GYxdTE/mqdefault.jpg)
![Refrigerator Not Cooling - How to Fix - What to Check [2020]](/img/tr.png)
Thx Todd - followed your video exactly - fridge back working - 100% - really appreciate the time and effort you've put in to this video - so useful. You saved our fridge going to landfill.
Todd - thank you so much for putting this video together - it was a life saver. My parents Bosch refrigerator stopped working with the same symptoms not cooling, alarm on screen, and beeping. The earliest we could find a tech to come out was over 1 week. I found this video and was able to diagonsis the problem and replace the inverter board. The problem is not fixed! Thank yoU!!
Thank you very much for the video!My husband just fixed our fridge. (We got the part from eBay for $300). We did not have to bring this refrigerator to scrap metal place!
Todd,
It runs sweet. If you are ever in Utah I would thank you personally. Bought a cheap $70 inverter on Amazon with all the same inputs and outputs and plugins etc. And it's back to purring and making everything cold. SWEET.
Can you share the amazon link for that part?
Thanks
Hello,
Same exact fridge here and same problem.
Did the same exam got the same #s on the voltage and dc voltage and same on the compressor ohms resistance.
Ordering a OEM unit from parts doctor.
Thanks for the knowledge.
You saved me $$$$ from a service repair bill.
Merci Todd, my fridge is saved! Let me know if one day you are in Montreal, I owe you a beer! I bought an OEM Invertec part from Amazon with free one day delivery. Worked like a charm! Nice fit in my Bosch B22CS30SNS/01. Note that I had to rotate the compressor connector 120 degrees to have enough space for the wires and be able to secure the module to the compressor (this cause no problem with a 3 phases DC compressor having connections isolated from ground).
I read on the Bosch tech support site, that the replacement inverter needs to have the exact same voltage and control signal... Did you verify this is true for yours? Or is it working otherwise?
Thank you very much, worked on one just like this today going to get replacement inverter tomorrow, not buy stock one either. I'm sure this is the problem. Thanks for continuing my education. Keep it up
I got new inverter. Still didn't work. Took it apart again and found one of the wires in the connector was slipping out and wasn't clipped onto the motor. Worked fine after making sure it clipped on correctly.
Excellent! Well, now you have a spare inverter
Todd, I believe the compressor is NOT a DC motor, but a 3 phase AC motor. The inverter converts single phase AC to DC and then to 3 phase AC at 150Hz. It says so right on the label in the "output" section. Otherwise a great video and thank you.
If it is an AC style compressor it will run off of an ac style start run relay device. Check with your preferred appliance parts supplier for appropriate style, and part number.
Thank you ! Restored the fridge to life!
Glad I could help!
It totally works now. you are awesome!
Would have liked to see you turn it on and verify that the compressor is running.I've just ordered an invertor as all my readings are the same as yours.I'm a bit concerned about the 2.5volts signal voltage...as some one has already said...usually it has to be higher...5 volts and upwards.
Most of the manufacturers have different communication voltage specifications, though most of them are the embraco system. I dont think I've ever seen the exact reading match the actual spec. Typically if there is a voltage value at that communication cable it will run. If theres no value then the control that feeds that voltage is bad. Its seldom that the inverter, and control fail at the same time
Todd thank you this is great information. Shaved me 100s of $.
Super video. Thanks for the info and boosting my confidence!
Thank you for posting the video Todd! I replaced the inverter, but it's still not cooling. When I plug it in, I can hear the compressor starting up fine, but then slowly winding down and can barely hear it. It does not stop completely and it does not get warm, but it's still not cooling. I'm getting 2.3V control voltage and I also checked the compressor resistance, everything is good so far. What could be the issue? Another bad inverter? Thanks!
Sounds like you have a coolant leak. Call around in your area too see if anyone does sealed system work on that machine.
I'm thinking the signal voltage has to be higher(4 volts and upwards) but its more complicated than that..the frequency also has to be higher..its not a pure dc input....its a square wave.My compressor did exactly the same thing when i replaced the invertor.Now thinking it a control board problem.
I did everything you said. Seemed like it would work but even though I have all the correct voltages it still did not work. Wondering if you think it is the circuit board. I get the 122v. I get 6 vdc on com cable and 6 ohms between pins. Any idea. Thanks Rick. Video was great
Hmmmmm, I would say its a bad compressor then. Is the inverter that you purchased a new oem part? It is possible that the part is bad. Of the 200 + inverters I have replaced there have been a couple failed compressors with that scenario
Would you send me a video of what you were doing with the inverter box. Our Bosch has the same problem but we can't afford to get a new one or have it fixed are daughter is getting married and it's a big sticker shock. Thanks much for the help, great channel.
Those are the details for that particular repair.
@@toddolsen995 I'm not sure what that reply means. I was excited to see this repair as I have the same fridge and same problem (if the compressor is okay). Your video was great until you stared doing things to the inverter off camera. Wish I could see what you were doing.
@@corrie-annclutchey6780 Those are all of the details that I have available. A common degree of electrical knowledge, troubleshooting, and metering ability is paramount for this type of repair. If you have the correct inverter replacement part number, the wiring from the old component should connect to the new one with relative ease. Check the voltage values on the old device, which should be around 110 to 120 volts at the power supply line, and 2 to 8 volts at the smaller communication wires. Then ohm out the three pins at the side of the compressor. All ohm values should read the same between the pin combinations at the side of the compressor. Between roughly 5 and 9 ohms. If they read proper, then it's time to install the new inverter run device. Take a picture of the old wiring, and set the new one up identical to the old one. It the ohm values at the compressor are not the same, it's time to shop for a new fridge. If they are the same the new inverter will most likely make the unit work again.
@@toddolsen995 You don't understand corrie-ann's question. The question really is: How to switch the old cabling for new? ESPECIALLY those metal U shaped connectors connecting to prongs. They do not just pull out or or disconnect like the white plastic connectors. And they are CONNECTED TIGHT.
She wants to see what happened between 9:40 mark and 11:30. There are a couple U shaped metal connectors connected to prongs that I can't detach.
Mr. Todd - Thanks for this invaluable video. Now, my fan - that blows towards the condenser is not working, would you have pointers/any guidance. Make/model is ditto. Bosch refrigerator b26ft70sns. NO success upon replacing fan motor. I was unable to confirm 13v DC power to the motor. I am unable to locate the source / trace the concealed cable either.
If thats the case i would check the wiring to the fan from the voltage source confirming continuity at these connections. Voltage should be coming from the electronic control that feeds it. If there's not a wiring diagram you may have to call bosch to get one. Confirmation of intact wiring is key in the first place though, thats where most people get it wrong but just ordering parts that may not be needed. Thorough multimetering cannot be overlooked.
Hi Todd - thanks for sharing - great video. My frige/freezer (B22CS80SNS/01, 12 years old) stopped cooling completely one day. The evaporators are dry, the compressor & fan running and the inverter voltages match your video. The condenser had a lot dust that I blew out. Service tech thought it was compressor or system leak. Any other suggestions that I could fix?
If the compressor is indeed running but no ice on the evaporator that is an indicator of a sealed system leak
hello Todd i hope you can help me here I have a bosch b36cl80sns/07 fridge and my fridge is dead. i have 110 power in and going to the ice maker but nothing else. can you tell me the voltage that is supposed to come out of the power module to the main board. Bosch cannot or does not want to help.the fridge is only 14 months old.any help would be appreciated thanks
Sorry, i didnt get a message notification. Without the actaual wiring diagram im shooting a bit blind, but generally I'd tape the door switches, and see if the interior fan(s) are cycling, if so go the the compressor, and meter voltage there. If all is quiet, and no volts at the compressor pull the main board, check connectors at or near it. Can u get a diagram from bosch? If not inspect the board for damaged relays, signs of arcing, etc....do we have good neutral, and ground? Its hard to aalk through without the proper diagram, but turning over as many stones possible will help eliminate potential non issues.
Hi Todd. I did all the tests and have the same problem as this fridge. What is the part number for the invertor you used? My Bosch is a B22cs30sns/01 and the invertor part number from Bosch is 00647583. The Bosch invertor is $300-400. Is there a cheaper invertor that will work? Thanks!
If that's what the supplier specified, that is the one I would use. There are several inverters available. Problem is, they don't always label the output voltage, and communication specifications. If you hook up the wrong one it's possible to damage the compressor, then at that point you'd be shopping for a new unit.
Please buy a cheap fridge working better then Bosch, I have very bad experience with Bosch fridge and just working during time of guaranty no more Bosch and we should inform everyone about it
I have this same issue with Bosch. It's broken down again. We fixed it the first time 5 years ago and now it broken again. Bosch is garbage.
My one humming loud at night during day r
Hey Todd, my Bosch refrigerator appears to be the exact same model as the one in this video... It recently stopped cooling, however, the screen has never worked since I bought the fridge used 5 years ago.
I don't know where to find a replacement inverter... Do you?
Also, do you know how to reset/activate the screen?
Thank you for your help!
Repair clinic.com or reliable parts. It would be best to call them to make sure you're getting the correct part number. The screen runs on power provided from the communication control board which is on top of the unit. These operate on DC voltage, and would have to be metered to determine the fail point. If there's voltage at the screen then the screens bad. If no voltage then the comm board is bad.
Which inverter did you use? I have the same model refrigerator that is not cooling.
These days its whichever one ge has in stock. Hard to say exactly which one your unit needs though. Its always best to do a part number lookup with the manufacturer though. The ones I stock are typically the wr49x10283 or wr87x29409 are similar. Thing is these are dc voltage for the communication wires. Some run ac current for the comm wires. Those are pretty rare in our area though, and I can't remember the part number for those
Does the inverter box control the evaporator and condenser fan as well?
I have a bosch refrigerator and when I first plug it in I can stick my ear to the refrigerator and I can hear the compressor come on for a few seconds then kick back off but the fans are not coming on either is that the inverter box that's causing that?
Most of these failed inverter jobs i go to the cooling fan(s) are still running, but the compressor is not. To date I cannot say that I have seen an inverter control the fan(s). If the compressor kicks off i would be concerned about one of the windings having an issue. You'd have to meter for proper voltage at the inverter, if that's present remove the inverter, and meter the ohm values between the hermetic pins.
@@toddolsen995 okay thanks
Hi Todd! My bosch fridge airflow ic full of ice. Is crazy man. What might be the problem?
Not sure i understand the question. If the airflow to the fridge from the freezer is full of ice you may have an issue with the defrost system, or the door may have been Left open . It will need to be thawed out if that is the case. I hope that helps
@@toddolsen995 the air canal that flows into the cooler is dripping and freezes to a degree .... U can't see the canal after 3 days.
@@maklaren811 i see. Must be an obstructed dain line then. I use a steamer to clean those out. However a turkey baster with hot water may suffice. Also a piece of weedwacker line as a snake can also be effective.
Thank you
You're welcome
Todd,
We have a similar model of Bosch fridge, and I can hear/feel that the compressor is working (as its slightly warm to the touch), but we're having issues with cooling...could it still be the inverter that might need to be checked out or could their be some other culprit at work?
I ran the self check for the fridge after powering it off for a few minutes, and it cycled through L1-L15, and no E flashed up during the cycle.
Does the back of the freezer look iced up ?
@@toddolsen995 It had been, but we unplugged it and let the ice that had accumulated thaw for 24 hours until it looked like no additional water had accumulated in the bottom of the freezer....plugged it back in and let it run for a bit.
It still wasn't cooling, but had apparently accumulated quite a bit of water in the drip pan again, so I revaccumed it out, used a can of compressed air and the vacuum again to suck out as much of the loose dust that remained from cleaning it earlier and plugged it in again.
I can feel the compressor running, as it's warm to the touch, hear the motor kick in and out, hear what sounds like water circulating/dripping faintly and the fans are running in both sides of the fridge and the fan in the bottom behind the compressor is free flowing and running...as I mentioned, the self test doesn't display any error to indicate an electronic failure, so I'm stumped as to what to try before calling the service company.
Mine too!
There are two U shaped connectors coming out of a harness and connecting to two prongs on the board. I can't detach them from the prongs. Neither original part, nor replacement. The other harnessed connectors disconnect & reconnect fine. THE QUESTION is: How to disconnect & reconnect those wires? When the repairman was doing this, he was filming the compressor while he worked outside the camera's view.
Certain wire connections have a "safety" catch at the female blade connections. They have to be depressed with a small screwdriver head. Not all models have this. They are really small to spot.
Todd,
I am currently working on the exact same fridge. I ordered a “used inverter” on eBay before I found your video, I thought I troubleshooted enough to just buy a used VCC inverter. I replaced it but still same issue. I then found your video and little confusing to me is the control voltage, I measure 2.5VDC and according to other videos it has to be higher somewhere between 5 and 10. Can you tell me what I should measure. I think you said you measured 2.5VDC as well. Compressor I measure 6.5Ohms between all leads. So I am assuming compressor is good. Any advice I would highly appreciate. So far I spent only 80$ on the used inverter, I am afraid of spending 180-250 on a new inverter and find my self in the same position as I am now.
Ok, whats the actual problem? Is the compressor running just not cooling, or is it not running at all? Also, the small harness typically measures 1 to 12 volts is what i have seen. The other bigger harness needs to have 110 to 120 volts, which is the actual power. The smaller connector is the communication voltage. Backing up though, if the compressor is running but not cooling it sounds like you may have a coolant leak, or blockage.
@@toddolsen995 thanks for your reply. No the compressor is not running at all. I got 120V going into the inverter and 2.5V DC going into it as well. I measure 0V on the output of the inverter so I am assuming it is bad? As stated, I bought an used inverter of eBay, could well be that I am dealing with 2 bad inverters? Where did you buy yours? I just watched your video again and can confirm the fridge is the exact same I have.
I am curious about the 2.5V DC, as soon as I plug the fridge into 120, I measure 2.5V, the voltage doesn’t change even if I run the test mode when I push +&- for 5 seconds. Shouldn’t the control voltage at least change when compressor is being tested during the test run?
Possibly a bad inverter. I've never had issues with the communication circuit on that so I couldn't say. I typically get parts from Reliable parts. You may also have the wrong inverter. You would have to call a supplier to get the proper part number, as there's several part numbers that may work with that machine.....too many details to get into here, but that's the short of it. There are 240 volt inverters that look similar, and maybee what you have. Also used parts is a crap shoot, so hard to say.
@@toddolsen995 I bet you are right. The inverter looks slightly different though. Could well be that this one is a 230/240V inverter. That sucks, I am going to reach out to the seller. I have not thought about it yet. I’ll let you know if I find out more! Thx for your help so far! 👍🏼
You know if it's possible to replace drip trays on BOSCH CLASSIXX FRIDGES. Bad odour coming from it even after cleaning with kitchen towel and baking soda.
Best bet is to call, or stop by your local appliance part supplier with model, and serial number off the machine, and do a proper lookup. Model badge is typically inside the unit on the walls, or ceiling.
I have a Bosch B22CS50SNS/02 refrigerator much like the one in this video. Does anyone know what the purpose of the switch located under the control panel? The switch is labelled 1 and 2. Also there is a sticker right next to the switch saying "For anti-condensation heater activation, please consider information in manual. (Troubleshooting section)"
Anti condensation is typically for areas with high humidity. Turning that on helps to reduce sweating around the door jambs. Not sure on the other switch. There's probably a description in the user manual.
I have a Bosch Refrigerator
Model #B26FT70SNS /02 manufactured in April 2011 . It stopped cooling and freezing today. One technician who visited today quoted me CAD $700 for replacing faulty inverter and another one quoted CAD $450. Just wondering if is worth to replace the inverter , do you have any advice for me. Thanks
Generally speaking, if the cost to repair is more than half the cost to replace it may be time to move on. Or if you do not like the features of the unit, or it needs other repairs as well, maybee time to move on. Environmentally speaking, it is much better to repair👍
Mine is worse. Got a technician to try to troubleshoot. The service total cost was $325....he said that I need to get I inverter board and another circuit board replaced. It will cost around $1200. I said no way, we will get a new non-Bosch fridge.
Todd, what should a repair like this cost a customer?
Blue book cost value has this job around $435 I do believe. Don't quote me for certain, but depending on your location, ease of access, etc.... charges may vary
Is there a trick to removing wires from old inverter? Brown wire is stuck.
Some of them have a safety tab built into the connectors that you have to press to release. Other than that I either use needle nose, or small flat blade screwdriver to carefully, and smoothly remove them
What size Torx to remove the ground wires on floor?
My grandfather always said use the one that fits best
my same Bosch fridge just went kaput hope this works for me.
An important part of the repair is making sure the hermetic pins ohm out to the same resistance values. The three pins on the side of the compressor that you remove the harness wire from should read around 6 to 7 ohms of resistance in all configurations. For instance, ohm the upper 2 pins then the left to lower and right to lower....basically all configurations, and the ohm values should be the same. If not then I am skeptic of the integrity of the compressor. If they read the same values, then you should be ok with installing a new start device with proper results.
@@toddolsen995 Yeah This was the biggest part of your video and the first thing I wanted to check. I am never going to see an old refrigerator in the ally the same again. #strippingitforparts
Hi, Todd, what is the new PN of the inverter you replaced?
Bosch number is a 00647583. Not sure if that subs from a different number though. It is an embraco product, so you may be able to cross reference the embraco number on the inverter to find a bit more reasonably priced unit. Bosch pricing is a bit on the high side.
@@toddolsen995 Thanks. What is the Embraco PN you use?
@@tli311 not sure of the actual embraco number. It does have a
200D5948PO23 on it. That may or may not be the part number. I use the bosch parts as they come with our warranty work account.hope that helps!
@@tli311 Bosch number is a 00647583, EMBRACO part number might be VCC3 1156 XXX XX, The X correspond to your compressor model but also with the Fridge Model.
I don’t get any reading on my compressor. I have set the meter on DC.
there is a friend with a Bosh B26FT50SNS fridge with the inverter malfunctioning but can't find the replacement part number, could you post it?
never mind it is below my mistake!! Thanks for the Video!
I don't have the part number offhand as we do not sell parts. Any supplier that you plan to purchase the part from would be glad to do the lookup. Just have your model, and serial number handy when you call them.
Had the same problem fixed it but now the water dispenser keeps on freezing I think it has to be something at the temperature sensor any device
Perhaps turn the freezer temp to a lower setting. Sometimes the door dispenser water tube is foamed to close to the interior of the door. Can be a big problem.
Honestly some girls can’t do this not because they can’t but it’s hard and scary our food and fridge is doomed
The white fan on the right is not running. Do I need a new fan motor? I'm a girl. lol
Maybe. We need more information. Door switches will have to be taped shut as not all fans run when the door is open. Then if it still is not running, you'll have to meter for voltages at the wiring harnesses.
Please help,
My Bosch i can't desactived sabbath mode on my Bosch refigerator. I have try all méthods. Please someone help
It is the same Bosch
You may have to refer to your users manual on this. Generally speaking though on a bosch unit, if you hold the options and settings + buttons for 5 seconds it should display the sabbath on or off feature. Depending on the unit you may have different display buttons and setting. Bosch does have a good customer service department though. Phone number may be on the model badge on the unit, or can probably be googled fairly easy. Hope that helps, and good luck.
Todd
This video wastes too much time not getting to the point...and then is way too complicated. If the problem gets to this point, call an expert.
The most important part, re-connecting the inverter, he kept to himself? Best you keep talking to yourself, it will save you a fortune on therapy. THEN , he did not show us it working, what a dimebar.