Wow-that’s a ton of helpful info. Really great, concise instructions. I’m enjoying your videos. An earlier one helped me choose an FLM tripod. Thanks for the useful content.
Thanks for the video. People rarely mention how important a manual white balance is when shooting panos. One of my first attempt was a very wide pano in the Grand Tetons and my white balance was on auto. ggrrr What I mess I had trying to get it right. I enjoy your videos.
Glad you like the videos - much appreciated! I've learned the WB one hard way as the WB would shift slightly between images, sunny areas, cloudy areas, etc, etc!
@@JeffreyTadlockPhotography Yep, that's exactly what happened to me and it was about a 20 frame pano. I finally decided to make it black and white and really darken the sky, which fixed the problem, but it took a lot of touch up work and I never was happy with the final image. If I ever make it back to the Tetons, I'll know. Of course I've taken many panos since that mistake. but if you go to a possibly once in a life time trip, you dont want to make that mistake.
Black and white to the rescue! ;) Once in a lifetime trips are stressful! I always end up overshooting on trips I travel a fair amount of distance for - more exposure brackets than normal, more focus stacks than I'd normally do, etc.
Hey, nice amount of info! A couple of things: 1) you mentioned that shorter FLs tend to distort the corners of the image, but you shot the pano at 24mm. Is it because your lens doesn’t distort or am I missing something? I would have thought a 35mm+ would have been more advisable. Any thoughts? 2) a few years ago I looked at the pano thing and discovered that you’re supposed to rotate the camera around its optical centre, hence a ton of L rails and complicated things were necessary in order to get the perfect result. Thoughts? Thank you
I think in most cases 35mm+ would have been better, even on the lens I was using (a Nikon 24-200mm). But I was thinking more why you might use a panorama over say shooting a wide-angle lens at 14mm to 16m or something like that scenario. As for an L-rail or nodal rail, for landscape objects in the distance I don't think they are necessary. If you start including strong foreground elements in the pano (like if I'd caught a cactus or rock in the more immediate foreground), then I think a nodal rail would likely help with the final quality of the image. I am not 100% certain when that break point is, a lot of my panos are more of a distant or semi-distant landscape object. Great questions!
Wow-that’s a ton of helpful info. Really great, concise instructions. I’m enjoying your videos. An earlier one helped me choose an FLM tripod. Thanks for the useful content.
You're very welcome! I am glad the video was helpful!
Thanks, Wanted to try a pano, but was a little hesitant.
Glad the video helped!
Great video! Thanks for the tips. It occurs to me that I can use the “grid” on my G9 to get my overlap when I move the camera. 👍🏻
The grid would be a great way to help track the right amount of overlap!
Only thing I would add is shut off image stabilization when on the tripod- Cheers!
Good point! Thank you!
Thanks for the video. People rarely mention how important a manual white balance is when shooting panos. One of my first attempt was a very wide pano in the Grand Tetons and my white balance was on auto. ggrrr What I mess I had trying to get it right. I enjoy your videos.
Glad you like the videos - much appreciated!
I've learned the WB one hard way as the WB would shift slightly between images, sunny areas, cloudy areas, etc, etc!
@@JeffreyTadlockPhotography Yep, that's exactly what happened to me and it was about a 20 frame pano. I finally decided to make it black and white and really darken the sky, which fixed the problem, but it took a lot of touch up work and I never was happy with the final image. If I ever make it back to the Tetons, I'll know. Of course I've taken many panos since that mistake. but if you go to a possibly once in a life time trip, you dont want to make that mistake.
Black and white to the rescue! ;)
Once in a lifetime trips are stressful! I always end up overshooting on trips I travel a fair amount of distance for - more exposure brackets than normal, more focus stacks than I'd normally do, etc.
@@JeffreyTadlockPhotography Sounds like a good idea :)
Hey, nice amount of info!
A couple of things:
1) you mentioned that shorter FLs tend to distort the corners of the image, but you shot the pano at 24mm. Is it because your lens doesn’t distort or am I missing something? I would have thought a 35mm+ would have been more advisable. Any thoughts?
2) a few years ago I looked at the pano thing and discovered that you’re supposed to rotate the camera around its optical centre, hence a ton of L rails and complicated things were necessary in order to get the perfect result. Thoughts?
Thank you
I think in most cases 35mm+ would have been better, even on the lens I was using (a Nikon 24-200mm). But I was thinking more why you might use a panorama over say shooting a wide-angle lens at 14mm to 16m or something like that scenario.
As for an L-rail or nodal rail, for landscape objects in the distance I don't think they are necessary. If you start including strong foreground elements in the pano (like if I'd caught a cactus or rock in the more immediate foreground), then I think a nodal rail would likely help with the final quality of the image. I am not 100% certain when that break point is, a lot of my panos are more of a distant or semi-distant landscape object.
Great questions!
What L bracket do you use?
It is a 3 Legged Thing Zelda. Love it, made to fit the camera, so I can access all the ports with ease.
Thanks