I run spacers on all 4 cars I own. Firs thing is you need to clean of the rust on your brake rotor where at marries up with your wheel. Then you need to make sure you seat the spacer right on the hub.. Then need to torque each bolt to 100ftLBs in a star pattern amd then repeat. Ive never had an issue with any of my spacers backing out. 100% sure you didnt seat the spacer right and torque down to spec.
yes I agree .. but the video title says its the spacer that failed so that must be the problem! lol I mean who would put a misleading title to get views?? Why can't people admit when they mess up and have the title that says " oops I'm an idiot and didn't properly install my spacers" but No .. blame the spacers!
I Agree with you...I made mine out of steel...it looks like a spool..Three quarter in plate..cut on a lathe..centered the welded on too a 3in steel pipe..made 3in an 1/16 ..The top ring is not even..it is welded with a 4 to 5mm lip..to add a ring to fit the correct Center bore of the rim..that way it doesn't slip down...it keeps the rim centerd from moving around on the bolts...I bought ARP BOLTS...THAT THEY USE IN DRAG RACING..AND CUT TO LENGTH....I HAVE HAD THEM ON MY CAR..WITH 22IN RIMS 5.3 LS...IN A MAZDA 6...FOR 5YRS...NO PROBLEM...NO LOCTITE...87FOOT LBS...I take them off once a year and CK for cracks... squareness...and acetone...and a wire brush drill to clean surface rust...it is what it is"
Always buy "hubcentric" spacers as they're much better/safer. Ensure the nuts are the correct ones for the car (tapered/rounded/flat). Clean everything well before installation. Copper grease can be used to stop the spacer from galvanicly sticking to the hub. Ensure the nuts go onto the existing studs far enough (at least the length of the nut). Tighten in a star shape then retighten/torque again when the tyre is on the ground. Redo them all again after 500miles as some movement can occur ;)
Not proper torque,I put mines 5 years ago,drive all the way to Mexico City from New Jersey, and back,they been on my truck for 5 years and not one problem with them.
Torque wrench is your friend. Torque it on then re torque them after 500 miles. That's the only safe way. loctite is optional, I wouldn't use it. If you torque it right loctite is not needed. It'll just make them hard to get off.
I put mine on but I torqued in steps 1st was 40 then 80 and ended at 150ft lbs that’s what f250 called for,inside and outside lugs and all in the star pattern I should be ok?,,,,, also check that the 1st set of lugs don’t hit the rim that can cause stress fractures in the studs
Especially red!!! Then considering how much of the red he put on he's gonna have to use a torch to get those lug nuts off when he needs new rotors! The one's he has on in the video already look like they need some attention. 🤦🏾♂
I like the glue stick version of the loctite, just rotate a little out and run it over the bolts, no mess or fuss. I just put mine on with one strip on top of the lugs from end to end, when the nut goes on it will distribute it over the rest of the threads. I only used blue loctite, did 100ft lbs on rear, but switched it to 120ft lbs on the front. Tomorrow I’m checking them to see if they loosened during some driving tonight and I’ll up the rear to 120ft lbs, at least with blue loctite I can actually re-torque them when it recommends to, with red those things are on there and no way you are torquing it again not without heat.
I'm sure there was a piece of paper in the box that the adapters came in that told you the properly torque spec for the adapters and then it follows with drive the car something like 25 MI and then retorque the lug nuts holding the adapters to specified torque on said paper. I have used wheel adapters on a number of cars and a van without any troubles. Read all instructions and use a torque wrench.
Mounting to a not clean surface. As the rust and dirt get crushed, spacer become seated, the nut did not spin loose, the surfaces have no dirt to hold them apart.
He's the exact reason for people's legitimate dislike for wheel spacers! Dude's already got the jeep jacked up but basically says near the end "I'll check the others when i get time to....." 🤦🏾♂🤦🏾♂🤦🏾♂🤦🏾♂🤦🏾♂
Suppose to check them again after so many miles. Loctite is generally not needed although, going with blue Loctite should be sufficient. My lug nut to wheel to rotor torque on my Camaro is 160 ft.lbs. My atv wheel adapter/spacer to hub torque is 80 - 95 ft. lbs. I would think aluminum spacer to hub on an automobile it would be approx. 125 to 140 ft. lbs . or maybe less. But remember, Aluminum can split or crack if you over torque. Get the correct numbers for your situation. AND NEVER apply oil or grease to the studs because it will cause you to over torque. Must be dry torque.
Absolutely correct!! People don't realize locktite actually acts as a lube on the threads when tightening, so your 100 ft lbs now might be 120 and then snap the stud! Along the lines of people running out and installing super bright blue headlights and not knowing enough to aim them down a turn or two so as not to blind everyone in front of them!
BORA, which these appear to be, explicitly tells you in it’s instructions NOT to use any Loctite. Clean surface and proper torque, then rechecking torque periodically, as people should be doing with their wheels anyway, is enough.
I will advise to torque lug nuts to OEM specifications. Based on my data 95 lb ft. Make certain the adapters are hub centric to your vehicle and wheel. Do not use any Loctite on the threads keep them clean and dry during the installation. Re-torque all lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving and repeat every 2-3,000 miles.
You dont use locktite smh! Proper torque & make sure you have atleast 1/2 of threads protruding thru the spacer with the proper lug nuts for that spacer!
Can’t see clearly in video but looks like the nuts weren’t fully engaged on studs. Either weren’t tightened all the way down or studs too short. Did a screen shot and looked like it wasn’t. My 2 cents is make sure your studs are long enough to fully seat that lug nut. I believe there’s a spec for minimum number of turns. OR in this case “just the tip” isn’t acceptable 😋
I've been running wheel spacers close to two years and I never had one fail.... You mentioned you use a little bit of Loctite... That was your problem you have to use more than a little just to let you know... yeah they give you a little bit when you buy them... I would not go to a part store to buy it too expensive.... Harbor Freight sells their version of it which is the same thing for $2.86 out the door... You will find out that you put more on there you'll never have a problem again.... Good thing you caught it when you did...
It is easy to see that your lug bolts are not long enough for those thick spacers, you are not catching enough threads with the sunken nuts. Look at your own video!
Just a question why are you using Locktite at all? I have used hub centric wheel adapters on some EXTREME applications with no problem but I just torqued them to spec and and they were fine.
You def did not 5 star by hand then with lug wrench 5 star then torque 5star..2xs each to bring flush except when torquing..and after 50miles recheck and retorque. Very important
This guy did not torque it down right. 100% issue with installation. Its physically impossible for them to come that loose even with 20lb of even pressure on each bolt.
The wheel adapter did the best job it could do that the installer allowed it to. Installer failure. Did you ever clean the mating surface too. Looks real rusty. Good vid bad title. Sry bro
Wheel adaptors need proper clamping force. The studs are too short. The lug nut never had enough thread engagement and simply using more high strength Red thread locker is wrong. It sets hard in the absence of air which means you need longer wheel studs, then get rid of the capped lug nut so the stud shows. It should come all the way thru the lug nut. Then torque them in star pattern to aluminum wheel specs which is usually higher that steel. If you have proper thread engagement and torque them they will not come loose. Putting Red thread locker on means you will need an oxygen / acetylene torch to head each one up to service the rotor, pads, caliper and axle. Did you open the box and burn the instructions? You get exactly what you deserve, more future head aches. Where do the crazy ideas come from. ASE Master Tech since 78, auto tech since 1972 and GM instructor for 7 years. This is why you never showed the loose lug nuts. They are captured behind the wheel? Did you forget to put them on? Are the wheel studs broken or just the threads messed up a little from ridding on them. Come on, tell the rest of the story. This auto repair and not a magic show.
Bruce Fizer if you want to do it the safe and correct bro, I would suggest not using loctite, but you can if you want to. After you put the spacers on, torque them down to your regular vehicle torque settings. Then after 50-100 miles, I would suggest re torquing them again to make sure no lugs came lose. (Not saying this so you believe me, but I do work at a tire shop, and I have spacers on my Tacoma and mine are doing just fine) hope this helps
Walker Jordan I just put mine on 1st was 40, 80 then 150ft lbs all in the star pattern was planning to tighten them back down in 100 miles what I have is a 06 f250 2” spacers will I be ok to tow a 8k camper?
@@hushg2000 lol. Spacers/ adapters. The only technical difference with an adapter is to fit a different stud pattern - also illegal. By adding adapters or spacers your steering geometry is out. In the event of a blown tire your car can pull you into oncoming traffic. This adds many extra points of failure. Spacers and or adapters are illegal in most jurisdictions for good reason. They add extra stress to wheel bearings, they add extra stress to wheel studs, They interfere with stability control, they can affect your braking geometry, they often cause broken wheel studs, this can result in losing a wheel, offsetting your wheel can affect your suspension and will often cause fouling when suspension bottoms out… Shall I go on?
@@korndoggy1 that’s cool. None the less. When you blow a steer tyre and your steering pulls you into oncoming traffic causing a head on with multiple fatalities… I guess it not illegal to sue the hell out of you for operating a dangerous motor vehicle? Lots of things are not illegal… doesn’t make it intelligent to put on your car.
@@ibsn87 Ok Jack... And it doesn't make your any more "intelligent" to think that a wheel spacer would cause a tire to blow, or to threaten someone for simply posting that they are not illegal in their state. Did I even say that I run wheel spacers on my vehicle? NO. You sound like the type of person that would sue his own mother because she is elderly and didn't shovel her walkway and you slipped and fell. Merry Christmas and Happy new year Jack!
@@skrsys There is a fully reversing cyclic bending load between the inner and outer bolting groups... the moment arm is short but it's still there. Aluminium is soft and local deformation will make you lose a ton of preload... which is probably what's happening here. Pardon my technical terms: me tryna be concise... Galvanic corrosion issues aside, you wouldn't use aluminium washers with steel bolts.
100% user fail like others have said you didn't get them torqued correctly. I've used wheel adapters and spacers several times and even the cheapest ones and they've never came loose
This is user error for sure. You do not need loctite just a clean surface and proper torque specs
This is the first post I've read in the last month of research that hasn't said you need red locktite
@Ellis Kareem Kareem! What's up?
Loctite it
And there was in The left wheel where direction helps tightness.
@@ianwatson3315 Duct tape it.
You need new rotors, those things are grooved up more than a 70’s disco.
Hahahahahahaha. Legitimately funny.
You're not lying! 🤣 I'm surprised he doesn't get vibration in his brake pedal too.
There’s this thing called steel brush. It’s used to clean rust and crud on surfaces such as metals before using thread lockers.
I run spacers on all 4 cars I own. Firs thing is you need to clean of the rust on your brake rotor where at marries up with your wheel. Then you need to make sure you seat the spacer right on the hub.. Then need to torque each bolt to 100ftLBs in a star pattern amd then repeat. Ive never had an issue with any of my spacers backing out. 100% sure you didnt seat the spacer right and torque down to spec.
yes I agree .. but the video title says its the spacer that failed so that must be the problem! lol I mean who would put a misleading title to get views??
Why can't people admit when they mess up and have the title that says " oops I'm an idiot and didn't properly install my spacers" but No .. blame the spacers!
@@rigjockey67 lol
I Agree with you...I made mine out of steel...it looks like a spool..Three quarter in plate..cut on a lathe..centered the welded on too a 3in steel pipe..made 3in an 1/16 ..The top ring is not even..it is welded with a 4 to 5mm lip..to add a ring to fit the correct Center bore of the rim..that way it doesn't slip down...it keeps the rim centerd from moving around on the bolts...I bought ARP BOLTS...THAT THEY USE IN DRAG RACING..AND CUT TO LENGTH....I HAVE HAD THEM ON MY CAR..WITH 22IN RIMS 5.3 LS...IN A MAZDA 6...FOR 5YRS...NO PROBLEM...NO LOCTITE...87FOOT LBS...I take them off once a year and CK for cracks... squareness...and acetone...and a wire brush drill to clean surface rust...it is what it is"
Always buy "hubcentric" spacers as they're much better/safer. Ensure the nuts are the correct ones for the car (tapered/rounded/flat). Clean everything well before installation. Copper grease can be used to stop the spacer from galvanicly sticking to the hub. Ensure the nuts go onto the existing studs far enough (at least the length of the nut). Tighten in a star shape then retighten/torque again when the tyre is on the ground. Redo them all again after 500miles as some movement can occur ;)
Good video, but lock tite shouldn't be a substitute for proper torque. What torque specs are you running on the adapter to hub, and wheel to adapter?
Not proper torque,I put mines 5 years ago,drive all the way to Mexico City from New Jersey, and back,they been on my truck for 5 years and not one problem with them.
I use a torque wrench and a line of loctite all the way down the stud and retorque after 5 miles then again at 50 just to be super safe
Torque wrench is your friend. Torque it on then re torque them after 500 miles. That's the only safe way. loctite is optional, I wouldn't use it. If you torque it right loctite is not needed. It'll just make them hard to get off.
I put mine on but I torqued in steps 1st was 40 then 80 and ended at 150ft lbs that’s what f250 called for,inside and outside lugs and all in the star pattern I should be ok?,,,,, also check that the 1st set of lugs don’t hit the rim that can cause stress fractures in the studs
Especially red!!! Then considering how much of the red he put on he's gonna have to use a torch to get those lug nuts off when he needs new rotors! The one's he has on in the video already look like they need some attention. 🤦🏾♂
I like the glue stick version of the loctite, just rotate a little out and run it over the bolts, no mess or fuss. I just put mine on with one strip on top of the lugs from end to end, when the nut goes on it will distribute it over the rest of the threads. I only used blue loctite, did 100ft lbs on rear, but switched it to 120ft lbs on the front. Tomorrow I’m checking them to see if they loosened during some driving tonight and I’ll up the rear to 120ft lbs, at least with blue loctite I can actually re-torque them when it recommends to, with red those things are on there and no way you are torquing it again not without heat.
Bigo torque wrench my friend.
Always recheck the tightness after about 50 miles
I'm sure there was a piece of paper in the box that the adapters came in that told you the properly torque spec for the adapters and then it follows with drive the car something like 25 MI and then retorque the lug nuts holding the adapters to specified torque on said paper.
I have used wheel adapters on a number of cars and a van without any troubles.
Read all instructions and use a torque wrench.
You need extended thread lugs that are made for wheel spacers looks like your threads only have like half thread engagement
Mounting to a not clean surface. As the rust and dirt get crushed, spacer become seated, the nut did not spin loose, the surfaces have no dirt to hold them apart.
Looks like you failed to remove the retainer clips on the lug studs before installing the spacers.
You also need to thoroughly clean the drum with a wire brush and brake cleaner prior to installing the spacers...
Take the adapter and knock those studs out, do the same for your wheels studs in the hub. Install long wheel studs in the hub. No more problems.
This dude is dangerous !!!
He's the exact reason for people's legitimate dislike for wheel spacers! Dude's already got the jeep jacked up but basically says near the end "I'll check the others when i get time to....." 🤦🏾♂🤦🏾♂🤦🏾♂🤦🏾♂🤦🏾♂
There is a torque sequence after you run the tire a few miles. Would put some anti seize in-between the hub and billet.
What brand is that bora?
Suppose to check them again after so many miles. Loctite is generally not needed although, going with blue Loctite should be sufficient. My lug nut to wheel to rotor torque on my Camaro is 160 ft.lbs. My atv wheel adapter/spacer to hub torque is 80 - 95 ft. lbs. I would think aluminum spacer to hub on an automobile it would be approx. 125 to 140 ft. lbs . or maybe less. But remember, Aluminum can split or crack if you over torque. Get the correct numbers for your situation. AND NEVER apply oil or grease to the studs because it will cause you to over torque. Must be dry torque.
Torque wrench my friend. I learnt that lesson on mine.
Took my thoughts right out my head
Don't know what you did wrong but I've been running 1" aluminum adapters since 1982. Never had an issue and no Loctite ever needed.
Me either
Absolutely correct!! People don't realize locktite actually acts as a lube on the threads when tightening, so your 100 ft lbs now might be 120 and then snap the stud!
Along the lines of people running out and installing super bright blue headlights and not knowing enough to aim them down a turn or two so as not to blind everyone in front of them!
BORA, which these appear to be, explicitly tells you in it’s instructions NOT to use any Loctite. Clean surface and proper torque, then rechecking torque periodically, as people should be doing with their wheels anyway, is enough.
@@Seandude05 absolutely correct
If the bolt never touch the locktite as he said, he must have forgotten to tighten that one.
I will advise to torque lug nuts to OEM specifications. Based on my data 95 lb ft.
Make certain the adapters are hub centric to your vehicle and wheel.
Do not use any Loctite on the threads keep them clean and dry during the installation.
Re-torque all lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving and repeat every 2-3,000 miles.
Think you're right, aluminum is ductile. Takes time but it thinks its water.
It looks like the wheel studs aren't centered in the rotor holes .. I don't know if that matters
You dont use locktite smh! Proper torque & make sure you have atleast 1/2 of threads protruding thru the spacer with the proper lug nuts for that spacer!
Buy the good brand one .you get have any problem again
Can’t see clearly in video but looks like the nuts weren’t fully engaged on studs. Either weren’t tightened all the way down or studs too short. Did a screen shot and looked like it wasn’t. My 2 cents is make sure your studs are long enough to fully seat that lug nut. I believe there’s a spec for minimum number of turns. OR in this case “just the tip” isn’t acceptable 😋
I was surprised there weren’t more comments about stud length. I think that’s the real issue here.
The original lug bolts are bent, they are not centered in the holes any more. Wow!
I've been running wheel spacers close to two years and I never had one fail....
You mentioned you use a little bit of Loctite...
That was your problem you have to use more than a little just to let you know...
yeah they give you a little bit when you buy them...
I would not go to a part store to buy it too expensive....
Harbor Freight sells their version of it which is the same thing for $2.86 out the door...
You will find out that you put more on there you'll never have a problem again....
Good thing you caught it when you did...
It is easy to see that your lug bolts are not long enough for those thick spacers, you are not catching enough threads with the sunken nuts. Look at your own video!
User error like a motherf'er..... 🤦🏾♂
Dude , you forgot to put plumbers tape
Just a question why are you using Locktite at all? I have used hub centric wheel adapters on some EXTREME applications with no problem but I just torqued them to spec and and they were fine.
Bcuz the instructions say so, smart guy.
Re torq after a short first drive never had issues
How maximal speed km/h wite spacer adaptor alumunium pcd 6×139,7 hilux,L200??
Clean both surfaces before installation as well...
Update?
You def did not 5 star by hand then with lug wrench 5 star then torque 5star..2xs each to bring flush except when torquing..and after 50miles recheck and retorque.
Very important
U installed them wrong.. this is on you!
With that much shaving, I would definitely replace those studs!!
I would use regular loctite not that gel stuff.
Your breaks are running hot.
How do you know and how can i fix ? I’m all ears. Thankyou for Reply
@@pjlifehacks2722 get a new rotor and maybe new calipers.
What brand of wheel spacers are those?
The type that they're not made for dumbasses
He got rough country spacers lmao
NO tire shop or mechanic will EVER tell you to use loctite on lug nuts LOL ...
Its ALWAYS anti-sieze.
A professional tire shop informed me of the dangers of such equipment. To much pressure i figure on (since it 2x the weight on the item)
Lmao hahahaha 😂
You shouldn’t need Loctite if they are well made and well torqued lugs. I’ve never seen Loctite on any factory lug nuts have you?
Didnt torque them down properly
Did you have any other issues???
Absolutely Not, I've Jacked her up a few times since to check. No Problems
man no....
You install wrong lug nuts for it and wrong torch lbs possibly dirty rotors. You cause it for sure
Wrong lug nuts you need the long ones
Look like you forgot to tighten the one
I was looking to buy one but after this video no thanks
This guy did not torque it down right. 100% issue with installation. Its physically impossible for them to come that loose even with 20lb of even pressure on each bolt.
fernandizo yeah after some research I bought spider track and I torque to 100 for my Nissan Titan ...
The wheel adapter did the best job it could do that the installer allowed it to. Installer failure. Did you ever clean the mating surface too. Looks real rusty. Good vid bad title. Sry bro
Gel thread lock doesn't work.
But did you actually use a torque wrench homie...... 75-80 ft lbs factory pattern +loctite. After 50 miles re torque....
I thought it was retorque after 50 miles for spacers
Me 2
You dont have to retorque them. If you torque to 100ftlbs. Theres no way they will back out. Unless you didnt do it correctly the first time around
@@fernandizo always retorque at least once
Wheel adaptors need proper clamping force. The studs are too short. The lug nut never had enough thread engagement and simply using more high strength Red thread locker is wrong. It sets hard in the absence of air which means you need longer wheel studs, then get rid of the capped lug nut so the stud shows. It should come all the way thru the lug nut. Then torque them in star pattern to aluminum wheel specs which is usually higher that steel. If you have proper thread engagement and torque them they will not come loose. Putting Red thread locker on means you will need an oxygen / acetylene torch to head each one up to service the rotor, pads, caliper and axle. Did you open the box and burn the instructions? You get exactly what you deserve, more future head aches. Where do the crazy ideas come from.
ASE Master Tech since 78, auto tech since 1972 and GM instructor for 7 years. This is why you never showed the loose lug nuts. They are captured behind the wheel? Did you forget to put them on? Are the wheel studs broken or just the threads messed up a little from ridding on them. Come on, tell the rest of the story. This auto repair and not a magic show.
How did it hold up after u fixed them?
Bruce Fizer if you want to do it the safe and correct bro, I would suggest not using loctite, but you can if you want to. After you put the spacers on, torque them down to your regular vehicle torque settings. Then after 50-100 miles, I would suggest re torquing them again to make sure no lugs came lose. (Not saying this so you believe me, but I do work at a tire shop, and I have spacers on my Tacoma and mine are doing just fine) hope this helps
Walker Jordan I just put mine on 1st was 40, 80 then 150ft lbs all in the star pattern was planning to tighten them back down in 100 miles what I have is a 06 f250 2” spacers will I be ok to tow a 8k camper?
Your supposed to re-check that they are tight... how can you do that with loctite on them?! Your played yourself
Clean off your hub!
Surface of rotors need work
How is this a Wheel Adapter fail? It's your fault for not using more Loctite
Lol. User error.
You didn't install that one properly
And that there ladies and gentlemen, is why spacers are illegal.
Spacers wouldn’t do that unless they have not been torqued down fully.
Anyway, In this video they’re not spacers, they’re adapters .. huge difference
@@hushg2000 lol. Spacers/ adapters. The only technical difference with an adapter is to fit a different stud pattern - also illegal. By adding adapters or spacers your steering geometry is out. In the event of a blown tire your car can pull you into oncoming traffic.
This adds many extra points of failure. Spacers and or adapters are illegal in most jurisdictions for good reason.
They add extra stress to wheel bearings, they add extra stress to wheel studs, They interfere with stability control, they can affect your braking geometry, they often cause broken wheel studs, this can result in losing a wheel, offsetting your wheel can affect your suspension and will often cause fouling when suspension bottoms out…
Shall I go on?
They are not illegal here in Mo. States may vary
@@korndoggy1 that’s cool. None the less. When you blow a steer tyre and your steering pulls you into oncoming traffic causing a head on with multiple fatalities… I guess it not illegal to sue the hell out of you for operating a dangerous motor vehicle? Lots of things are not illegal… doesn’t make it intelligent to put on your car.
@@ibsn87 Ok Jack... And it doesn't make your any more "intelligent" to think that a wheel spacer would cause a tire to blow, or to threaten someone for simply posting that they are not illegal in their state. Did I even say that I run wheel spacers on my vehicle? NO. You sound like the type of person that would sue his own mother because she is elderly and didn't shovel her walkway and you slipped and fell. Merry Christmas and Happy new year Jack!
People Will Laugh Of You,
The Problem Is Clear, You Have To Use Special Nuts And
You Reuse Original Nuts From Ur Vehicle...Wrong Mistake.
I too ate a crack sammich for breakfast.
@@AndyDaClimber I know You And Your Mother Do The Same.
Torque them to 48 pounds then weld the nut so it cant come loose.
Your welcome !
Lol😂🤣😂😂😁
Using an aluminium spacer between two steel structural parts in cyclic loading. **Vomits in mechanical engineering**
The spacer is anodized and the wheel is also aluminum.
@@skrsys There is a fully reversing cyclic bending load between the inner and outer bolting groups... the moment arm is short but it's still there. Aluminium is soft and local deformation will make you lose a ton of preload... which is probably what's happening here. Pardon my technical terms: me tryna be concise... Galvanic corrosion issues aside, you wouldn't use aluminium washers with steel bolts.
100% user fail like others have said you didn't get them torqued correctly. I've used wheel adapters and spacers several times and even the cheapest ones and they've never came loose