Dcc Concepts BR Ground Signals
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- čas přidán 13. 07. 2024
- Hello CZcamsrs and welcome back to another video from Chelmswood Junction.
In this video we will be taking a look at my new DCC Concepts BR Ground Signals.
This pack comes in a pack of 12 and comes with a mimic board and that also acts as a decoder for the signal.
I take you through unpacking the signals and mimic board showing you how to get them up and running showing you how to install them to your baseboard to the finished wired up and working scene.
I hope you all enjoy the video as I had alot of fun making it.
Please as always feel free to like, share, comment and subscribe.
Until the next time stay safe and happy modeling. - Zábava
Nice demo , great additions to any layout .........Peter
hi peter
thank you so much for your nice comments.
peter
Brilliance at its finest, full of useful info, thanks for the share mate, looking into these myself for my layout.
hello friend
thank you for your nice comments and i am so glad you enjoyed the video and found it usefull.
hope yourself and the family are all well.
peter
Keep up the good work mate👍 those signals look great.
hi dugmer
they are a brill little addition to a layout.
peter
Hi peter
What a great product and what a brill how to video they look amazing well done buddy keep up the hard work.
Peter
hi dave
yes they are a great product but as i found the size of drill they say to use isnt big enough it was a fiddley install but fun to do.
thank you as always for your comments.
peter
Smart, you a pure genius... Keep it up
Hi Roy
I wouldn't day I was a genius just good at solving an issue.
Glad you enjoyed the video.
Peter
Awesome system Peter! Thanks for sharing this video. Cheers Onno.
hi onno
thank you for your nice comments as always.
peter
sorry to be off topic but does any of you know a tool to log back into an instagram account??
I was stupid lost the account password. I love any help you can give me
@Jayden Turner instablaster =)
@Simon Kade i really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Simon Kade It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account!
Hi, my turnouts are wired for DCC with juiced frogs and polarity control by Tam Valley boards. However, I have this kitt from DCC Concepts, and all my turnouts are manual throws. I do have a main power bus for left and right rails, but I have no idea how to wire my DCC Concepts Signals In.
Do the same principles apply here in your video? Just wire into the turnouts bus and locat the correct thrown turnout?
Hope I make sense. Basically, Im just trying to wire this DCC Concepts Signal kit into my manually thrown DCC Turnouts. My turnouts are DCC manual, not motorized. I also have a DCS52 from digitrax as my controller, not NCE... Thanks in advance kindly.
Did you just run it of the main power from the NCE? Great video. Thanks.
Hi Peter
They was connected directly to my nce they are now connected to my new dcc system ecos esu command station
You can buy extension cables on eBay with micro plug/socket each end so no soldering
Hi chris
Yes I know you can buy extension cables many thanks anyway.
Peter
DCD-ME-750/1M etc for extensions.
got mine today going to have to put number transfers on the back of my signals to remember what address each signal is
They are a good piece of kit I liked them and they worked perfect for me.
Good luck.
Peter
Hi Peter, really enjoyed this video, The dcc concepts stuff is really nice and well thought out, well mostly apart from the hole to put the signals through LOL! maybe they expect you to cut the wires then solder them back up under the board, which is okay if you can solder small wires but some modellers may struggle! Which reminds me I have a ground signal in n gauge to build which should be fun 😂 All the best Tony.
Hi Tony
I find some things in 4mm oo gauge a struggle to build so how you do it in 2mm n gauge good luck with that.
But yes I agree with you the dcc concepts products are good but I found a way round the small hole problem as you watched in the video.
Glad you enjoyed the video mate all the best to you and your family.
Peter
The interesting question, with this rather expensive package, is: Can these ground Shunting Signals be interlocked with the points they work with ???? And will they automatically return to danger when any train or loco passes, as per the real signals ????
WHERE & WHEN THESE SIGNALS ARE USED.
The meaning of the displays seen on these Shunting signals are: Red & white horizontally "STOP". Two white lights displayed diagonally at 45 degrees, means "Proceed at caution and be prepared to stop short of any obstruction" (such as another train or vehicle.) As Shunting signals they are ONLY applicable to locomotives, freight trains or EMPTY passenger trains (ECS). They CANNOT be accepted by loaded passenger trains ! So cannot be placed facing oncoming trains on "RUNNING LINES".
"Running Lines" are the lines used by all types of traffic to proceed from one station to the next, and outside any "Permissive Block" area. (i.e "Station Limits" found at larger stations where shunt movements, such as locomotives, are required.)
"Non Running lines" are goods yards, loco depots, carriage sidings, and any line denied to loaded passenger trains.
Positioning of such signals is required at the EXIT from " non running lines" onto "running lines". Also to allow wrong direction moves on running lines within "Station limits/Permissive Block" and of course for the use of access to non running lines (yards, depots etc) on condition they do NOT face normal oncoming traffic !!!!
They are NOT needed within goods yards or depots, or other non running line yards, as these areas are under the control of a "Shunter" (Person in charge) and hand signals are used within these areas.
So they are NOT needed on each track in what appears to be your loco depot seen in this programme. Only ONE of the shunt signals would be needed at the depot exit where it joins a "Running Line" !!!!!
Further the exit shunting signal would be "interlocked" with the point connecting to the mainline. So until the point is set for a locomotive to leave the depot, the signal would be constantly "locked" at Danger irrespective of what the signal control switch commands. This is easily achieved on the layout by running the wire that allows the signal to show two whites, via a switch on the point motor to the wire that illuminates the red/white aspect !!! So when the point is set for the mainline the signal will only show the red/white aspect, as per real life operation. Indeed if you wire the signal this way, you won't need the expensive solid state board, as you will have effectively automated the shunt signal !!!!!
NOTE: The Shunting Signals seen in this programme are the pre-1980 type. BR updated the design by changing the "STOP" Red/white indication to two reds.
By an ex BR Railway Engineer.
Happy Modelling 😝.
Hello
And thank you so much for the information of the real world of signalling.
As for the signals being interlocked with points I would say yes they could with dcc control say if you can program the signal and point to the same dcc address.
With the question regarding once a train has passed it goes to danger I again would say yes but not with these signal it could be done with the exkon and berko ground signals and signal boards from Heathcote Electronics.
Hope this helps answer your question.
Peter
Why are the signals plugged into every other socket on the Mimic board? Can't you plug the signals into the first 4 plugs all in a row without skiping every other plug? Thanks a bunch! 😀
the reason i had plugged them into every other one is the board has 8 signals and 16 sockets if my memory is correct and the board has 8 dcc address commands which mean 2 signals would be on one address so for arguments sake the top 8 rows of sockets would be socket 1 and 2 would be address 200 socket 3 and 4 would be address would be address 201 5 and 6 sockets would be address 202 so on and so on.
hope this helps and hope you enjoyed the video.
peter
@@chelmswoodjunction OK, I have it now, Thanks so much!!
@@scotabot7826 your so welcome glad i could clear it up for you they are a good piece of kit but if your going to purchase them make sure you get the extension cables as it will make your life easier and they are not as easy to install as they say my video tells you and shows you the best way.
peter
These signals are idiot proof Peter as I prooved by getting mine to work first time.........Cheers Kev
Hi Kevin
They are a very simple and easy design from control of them and tge programming of them.
But I still stand by that dcc concepts need to provide the bigger drill bit lol.
Glad you liked the video.
Peter
Ah yes the drill bit is way too small but I used it for others things too 😀😀
Why did you have 8 pointed in the same direction?
Hi Don
It was 4 for the front reception area and the back 4 was for the sheds but the sheds never got built
SHUNT SIGNALS - ITS MUCH CHEAPER & MORE REALISTIC USING THIS SIMPLE WIRING TRICK ????
Very complex method for simple shunting signals ! When you understand how the real life interlocking works for such a signal. So I only need three wires and NO expensive electronics. As in real life the Signal is simply interlocked through the relevant point motor. The point motor therefore ensures the signal cannot show a clear, if the point is not correctly set. To wire this is stupidly simple. You simply take a wire with a 12v DC + supply, and connect that to the common connection on the spare switch on the point motor (Obviously you need a point mechanism with at least one spare switch, such as Fulgurex, Lemaco or Tortoise). The other two connections on that switch go to the two wires on the signal. One being for the two white LED's & the other for the red/white LED's. The return wire from the signal simply goes back directly to the negative connection on the 12v DC power supply. Job done !!!
The signal will show "stop" when the point is not set correctly, and will show clear when the point is set correctly. You've now automated that signal so it will always display a correct aspect, and you don't even need a control panel switch !!!.
If you want to be clever and have an override to hold the signal at danger, you simply add a mini toggle SPDT switch (£1.50). Where the 12v DC plus supply now goes direct to the common contact on the SPDT switch. The other two wires from that SPDT switch. One goes to the point motor switch common contact. While the other goes directly to the red/white LED on the signal.
This method ensures you have to change the SPDT switch first, from the "stop" position to "clear" before the signal can display clear. Then the point switch itself "double checks" the point is actually in the correct position, before allowing a clear to be displayed. If the point isn't set correctly the signal will be locked at Danger.
All of which means you now have to drive your model trains to the actual display on the signal, or your loco will short out on the point & stop. Real life type "automatic safety protection", without all the expensive and totally unnecessary electronics and miles of superfluous wiring !!!!!!