The #1 Cause of Fuel Pressure Problems
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- čas přidán 26. 03. 2019
- **This video specifically addresses problems with aftermarket fuel systems and does not necessarily represent problems with a stock fuel system.
If you’re having trouble figuring out why your fuel pressure is not consistent, you might start by looking at your choice of fuel pressure gauge. I’ve recently learned that these are a big problem and it’s saved me a bunch of headaches. I hope this information is also helpful to you.
Aeromotive article about fuel pressure gauges: aeromotiveinc.com/wp-content/u...
Other Aeromotive TSB’s: www.aeromotiveinc.com/tech-he...
0-15psi gauge: www.aeromotiveinc.com/product...
0-100psi gauge: www.aeromotiveinc.com/product...
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#1 cause of fuel pressure problems at SMA.... cars out of gas....
Mmm, got no gas in it.
2 Eric's is one comment!!!
@@ericthecarguy got'ny french fried potaters?
Chunk ERICCEPTION!!!!!!, *insert Inception horn here*
But the needle was on "E" yesterday and it ran
Man. I have been fighting with my fuel pressure for months since my build. Thanks for this. Even my Holley has a rubber plug I just released the pressure and finally it all makes sense.
Definitely helpful Eric! I was actually diagnosing inconsistent pressure this past week on a built '17 Subaru STI. Sadly, the gauge wasn't the cause of the problem. (we mount our fprs and gauges on the strut brace usually instead of the engine. Helps a lot with vibration issues)
Turned out it was an issue on the Venturi pump siphon/scavenge setup in the fuel tank. Installed a new Venturi pump and simplifies the system, and the pressure got much more consistent. Less pressure in the return line to the tank!
Needless to say, there was a lot of "tail shaking" going on for us too
To be clear, the issue isn't that the gauges are liquid filled, but that they're liquid filled _and_ sealed. Vented, liquid-filled gauges exist- Aeromotive manufactures them- and they solve both the case pressure problem and the shock/vibration problem. But, as ever, excellent tip for people with modified fuel systems to look out for. Thanks for the resources, Eric!
Thank you so much for this video and the link to aeromotive page regarding this. Everything in my entire fuel system was new, and this is exactly what was happening to me, chasing the fluctuating fuel press, actually blew a head gasket due to it being too lean after an adjustment when hot, was reading nearly 50psi, supposed to be Ford 39.whatever psi lol. For as common as aeromotive claim this is, I've asked quite a few, otherwise very knowledgeable individuals, tuners even, with really no help. But this is exactly what it was and exactly how I'd describe it to the people I did ask. Thanks again Eric, you have made a few of my all time favorite CZcams videos. The one with you a Paul rebuilding a t5, I've watched numerous times, helped me disassemble and re assemble a few t5s myself.
You are a HERO!!! I've been chasing this problem for the past month
Jim Hand, a prominent old school Pontiac V8 builder found out the liquid filled fuel gauges aren’t accurate when mounted inside the engine compartment, due to temperature fluctuations. Jim literally just pulled the rubber plug and drained the glycerin out, problem fixed! Some times simple is better! 👍👍👍
On liquid-filled gauges there's a port where they are filled this port can be used as a vent to vent the pressure changes that occur. Wouldn't want to do that in a mobile for sure! Got to match the gauge to the application for sure, and that's a good idea to question your measurement device when you think you may have a problem that might not be there. Always double check your meter or gauge. Thank you great video.
Dammit. Just got that same guage a month back. Haven't used it yet. Nor will I. I mean it is only 20 bucks, you get what you pay for! Thanks Eric! Useful information as always!
Exactly what my glycerin filled gauge is doing when hot. Drops to 2 psi and adjusting the regulator does nothing. I'm putting in a non liquid filled gauge tomorrow. Thank you so much.
Neat. I never thought about the liquid filled gauges interacting with changes in temp.
Hi Eric,
if you want a "true" reading on a glycerin filled gauges, you will have to cut off the rubber tip on the fill plug on top of the gauge, this is only sealed for transportation. more expensiv guages in industry have a valve on top with clear markings for transport and opperation posittions. i have workt for many years on boats and have sen this a lot. when you heat the guage, the air and glycerine expands, and the pressure inside the gauge increases, dus causing the pressure to read lower than it actually is.
Eric, you need to cut off the tip (pointy part) off of the fill plug. The plug seals the gauge so that the glycerine doesn't leak during shipping. Unfortunately, if you don't create an opening by cutting off the nipple, the outside of the bourdon tube, the part that changes shape as pressure inside it changes, has no reference to atmospheric pressure which is what you're measuring fuel pressure against. If there is a pressure build up inside the gauge case for whatever reason, the needle will indicate a lower reading than if the gauge mechanism was exposed to atmospheric reference pressure. I.E, 9 psi fuel pressure will indicate as 6 psi on the dial if there is a 3 psi pressure build up inside the case. I've seen this problem many, many times in industrial applications, especially in lower pressure ranges like is the case in your application.
Aha!!!!! interesting! explains why the cheapo liq-filled gauge I used on my 91 Storm never acted up on me. I swapped out the glycerine for mineral oil because the provided expansion space was way larger than it should've been & I couldn't find glycerine with which to bring the level up to spec. I decided to push things & leave a smaller bubble for aesthetics, *installing a rubber expansion tube I dyi'd onto the gauge* . I left it open ended & *LOOSELY* packed with a bit of cotton ball to keep out contaminants. Maybe the mineral oil helped as well?
Good point.
Omg! My neighbor was talking to me last week about that issue with his 1964 mustang restoration built. Whe were blinding trusting those glycerin filled gauge.
I love your videos, pure mechanic knowledge
Thank you so much for this video! I have been experiencing the exact same problems. Glad to get it resolved!
Thanks for the heads up Eric,I was just gonna order one for my 98 FIREBIRD FORMULA LS1
Eric your gauge sounds accurate. I run Fuel Pressure control. 45-100psi to be exact. It's PWM based. When cold(Pump, Injector,Lines ETC) I need less duty with higher Frequency to hit my Target Idle Pressure of 45PSI. So my X Axis is Fuel Temp Y axis is MAP. FYI I monitor Pressure with both a Needle gauge and 3 wire Transducer. I can tell you for sure. Your Pressure is indeed higher when the system is cold. That said think your Gauge is accurate. Best to isolate gauge/Reg from engine HarmonicsThanks for all you do I have been watching your videos for years.
Thanks for the continued excellent advice.
I note the proliferation of electronic pressure gauges, these can monitor oil or fuel pressure and are in the $20 range. They do require a wire from the sensor, one for battery voltage and a ground at the sensor as the sensor might be isolated from ground as it is on my old Honda.
Keep up the good work Eric! Can't wait to see the videos with the new Acura :). Hope to start my own channel about custom motorcycle builds pretty soon and you and other CZcamsrs like HumbleMechanic, EngineeringExplained,, ChrisFix, Edd China and many more sure inspired me to do so!
Hope that You'll post a testing of this. Thanks for the tips.
I always like your videos before I even start watching because of the content in which you provide. Good luck with the new gauge
I've only ever had two problems with fuel pressure. One was caused by a bad fuel pump. The other was due to the absence of fuel. :)
Why come no start? No gas. That's why come.
Would you say you had to get a full tank in lol
Thanks learn something new every day.
Great article thanks for the information Eric
Wow. I feel better. I didn't know what was going on. I was about to buy an adjustable regulator thinking mine was busted. I got other problems with my S2K but I can breath a little easier now.
Thanks for reaching out, I was working on a fuel pressure problem ( low fuel pressure ) for a long time, I drained the liquid in the fuel pressure gauge and I had steady fuel pressure, however There is also air getting into the fuel line between the tank and fuel pump ( I have installed clear fuel line ), also the carburetor air filter is blocked ( making the engine rev up and down a bit at the same time the air starts coming through the fuel line ) ( about 15 minutes of idle ))
This was so helpful, THANK YOU!!
Altitude affects pressure gages as well. anything that affects the pressure inside the gage will. example reduction of 1 lb of air pressure from increase in altitude(vented gage) will make the gage read 1 lb higher(approximately). its an imperfect world. we need to understand these things and not get upset by them.
I wish I would of saw this a month ago because I was having issues with fuel pressure, regulator wasn’t reading properly & it would drops pressure after a while. I now have the car at the shop & im probably gonna get charged an arm & a leg to look at it when it’s probably this exact issue. SMH. Thanks man!
Dude, thank you so much for this video.
The only time i had a non filled fuel pressure guage read steady(within 1psi) is when i had an aftermarket mechanical fuel pump and using no regulator whatsoever, it was a Carter M6900 style fuel pump for my mild build SBC back in the mid 90s, advertised at 6psi, my fuel pressure gauge needle only varied between 5.5 and 6.5 psi, no more, no less. Compared to these $25 mechanical fuel pumps as a stock replacement, advertised at 5psi(Delphi MF0001), but connect a fuel pressure gauge inline, and the needle bounces all over the place showing a much higher reading. I bought that delphi unit for my ZZ4 crate engine, i took it for a test drive, and it ran fine, i've always had the impression and also seeing it on YT that if the fuel pressure was too high, it would overcome the needle and seat, over fill the bowls and you would actually see fuel dribble out of the ventury boosters, but my holley 650(0-080783C) carburator hasnt done it, and the set floats and fuel level stays steady in the fuel bowl via the sight glass.
Thanks man. I wish I would’ve came across this before I replaced 2 fuel gauges though.
Thanks for your advise.😎
Thank heaps mate good, would not have known
I get F1007 and F1014 codes still searching what they mean. Somebody suggesting it may be crankshaft or timing issue, maybe crankshaft sensor, but I doubt car could be out of timing as it was not opened. Someone suggesting it’s a fuel problem perhaps too much fuel. It’s a Peugeot 207, any idea where to start? Have replaced fuel pump already, seemingly not cause.
thank you Eric from south Africa
Eric!! Does this also apply to a liquid filled pressure gauge on a cng tank?
If you have the version with the brass fitting accidentally being pulled out too far, how do you reset it as it’s fallen below zero?
Great informative video
Helpful video.
To clarify, it's not so much a problem that the gauge is liquid filled, the issue is more a matter of the gauge being SEALED and able to build pressure against the fluid within its housing which affects the bourdon tube.
It's entirely possible to get liquid filled gauges that are able to be vented periodically (feasible if you vent it before taking the reading, if it's in the engine bay you won't be reading it in motion anyway.)
Another option could be to modify the gauge by adding a breather tube on top to allow it to constantly be at atmospheric pressure regardless of the temperature (and help mitigate fluid loss from splashing out)
As a similar concept, consider an axle breather, same concept, temperatures rise and the pressure safely vents up and out.
Simplest option though? Yeah just replace the dang gauge with a non sealed unit.
(This isn't directed at anyone in particular, just tossing it out there.)
I unscrew the diesel fuel cap and normally I hear a hissing sound but not recently. Also recently, my car struggles to start Diesel engine. Are these two observations linked eg fuel leak or fuel hosepipe blocked with debris ? Thanks Eric.
I was expecting something that solves the problem on any vehicle.
I have been chasing an issue in my rx7 thank you
I've been chasing what I *think* is a fuel pressure issue in my Fuel injected Jeep Grand Cherokee. Whenever I take a corner at a moderate speed, and step on the gas to accelerate out of the corner, the engine bogs down like either it's flooded, or not getting enough gas...don't know what is causing this. Maybe I should put in a fuel pressure gauge and see what it's doing.
great info, i thought the same with the fluid filled gauges
I had one of those things fail. The liquid got dark, thought it was just baked or something. Turns out I had a fuel leak into the gauge, and the inside was full of a gas/glycerin mix. I threw the gauge out and put the stock test port back on. It also would give me odd readings, high when cold, low when hot, and I went through the dance with changing parts for a while as well.
Thanks erick very helpful
Ericthecarguy ive watched so many of your videos and your an awesome mechanic but i was wondering if you can help me with my car. I have 2002 lancer oz rally automatic and the car cranks but doesnt start unless i put starting fluid into the intake it starts. Everthing works on it theres spark i swithced out fuel regulator also swapped injectors. Sparks plugs wires coils. Fuel pump as well. Checked all fuses and relays all good. The only thing i did notice was that when i turn the key to run position without starting fuel pump makes no noise and no pressure but when i start to crank turnover then the fuel pump comes on and theres pressure coming through the fuel rail. Im stumped on this trying to figure out what it could be but my assumption would be the ignition switch being faulty idk or could it just be a faulty fuel pump?
Just got my 0-100 PSI Gauge today aaannnd of course it's leaking fluid from the rubber gasket under the pin.
Thx Aeromotive.
Hi Eric, I'm about to install the same jegs gauge, on the side of the gauge it said to cut the black nipple on the top after installation !! can it solve the problem ? why do we have to cut it ? aha must we cut it ? thank you :-),
Hi Eric. Thanks for the videos. This issue has been known for decades in the industrial gauge market. The non glycerin filled gauges suffer from the same issue but the percentages of the swings are a lot less than the liquid field due to the amount of volume consumed by the liquid versus the body size of the gauge. I have vacuum gauge is that have a little bar that you rotate that allows the inside of the gauge to normalize with atmospheric pressure this is very high quality gauge and it is non-liquid field. This issue has been going on long time, It’s just most car guys are cheap and don’t wanna spend the money on this type of stuff so these companies just throw the stuff out there and people buy it and buy it and buy it. Great videos. It boils down to you get what you pay for.
Whered you buy your vacuum gauge ?
@@user-lh1hd5iw7h McMaster Carr
Question, I have a 2004 4runner v6 and I have a little issue that needs to be fixed. It's got 166k. When I start the car in the morning I get a rough idle for a few seconds. Then it runs normal, I have no idea what to check for that symptom. It doesn't always do it but most of the time in the morning it does. so for I've done new spark plugs, new battery and alternator, new air filter, I can't seem to diagnose and fix the problem. ERIC any tips as to what I can check next?
I cut the tip off of mine and it reads accurately and runs better than ever. I will be buying a new gauge because I don’t want the oil in the gauge to make a mess now
Mad Eric.... Nice. I kinda like it.
got a question for you i got a liguid gauge 0 to 60 and i got a 1990 k5 blazer got my engine rebuld i did some up grades and some mods to mt tbi so i need the gauge to set my regulator pressure and i got some to burn my chip i put bigger cam in it ..my gauge were reading 10 psi with the stock spring and i try to adjust it but it stay at 10psi so i were thinking maybe the spring were weak so i put in a 18psi spring when i frist put it in with no adjustment it was reading 10 psi ..so i started to adjust it and it went to 20 psi i were trying to get it to go to 14 psi so when i back off it the screw is not even touching it and it is still at 20 psi it as if it is sticking ..and when unscrew the gauge it dont drop down to 0 and it should what do you think
Very interesting read.
What’s the ideal fuel pressure reading on an inline pressure gauge while the vehicle is running.
Please send help…
4 Barrel Holley on a SBC 350
I have a 2008 Chevy Equinox 3.6L, The fuel pressure is at 60 psi but needle is very erratic & the car is misfiring consistently, any idea what this can be?
just been chasing a fuel pressure problem on a ford maverick bloody fuel pumps lol
If I started having low fuel pressure around 3 to 4 psi. Car won’t stay running long it slowly dies or idles at very low rpm. Have MagnaFuel 500 pump and regulator. Was on my nova for 12 years. Could my pump motor start going bad ? It started last year with breaking up at high rpm like fuel starvation. It used to stay at 6.5 to 7 psi.
A lot of gauges are questionable now, more than before, liquid filled or not. The problem goes across quality, price, size, etc. It doesn't seem to matter if its American made or not.
Do you think it’s because it’s a cheap guage? I have one on my mustang and it seems to be fine
Just watched. Just ordered thier carb 0-15 psi gauge. Will see if it makes a difference. My current AutoMeter liquid filled gauge with equalizer will start to lose pressure after warm up at idle. Then will really drop when driving around from 4 to about 2 psi or less. Would have pull the equalizer pin to reset it to read at 4 psi. I’m thinking I would not have to do it every time. Losing sleep over this! Will see how this one does once received and tested.
I have the Aeromotive gauge and it does the exact same thing. The Aeromotive gauge fixes nothing.
A simple solution to that problem is to just use a T split and a section of braid reinforced fuel line to a normal gauge that's located in an insulated enclosure somewhere near the nose of the car. Vibrations won't affect it anymore and heat won't sway it either. Trucks have this, WW2 planes had this. There's no magic behind it.
Just so as long as some genius doesn't take it to the next level and decide to mount that gauge on their dash.
hello, eric i need your help, fuel is not returning in my car (Maruti Omni - 0.80 L 3-cylinder petrol MPFI engine ) and i have changed the brand new fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator and fuel rail and injectors but problem is still the same there is no fuel return and engine is missing a lot hoping your revert n thank you
my fuel pump on a 1993 cadillac brougham 5.7 failed is it a bad idea to replace it with a high flow pump? the entire car is original. WOuld it cause a problem? should i just go with an oem style pump?
I've been chasing my tail on an 05 sport Trac that doesn't have a shrader valve. And the fuel pressure is reading 50 on a scan tool which I know to be low from research.
FYI: Really strange the article. All the glycerin gauges I came across tell you to pinch with a needle a hole in the rubber plug for the first usage. Next advice is to use the gauge in a way the rubber seal is always in the highest position so the glycerin will not spill out.
I've only installed two liquid filled gauges on my fuel rail...eventually they vibrate so much they actually fall apart .never used one again.
I haven't had that issue on my 00 s10. I used a liquid filled gauge for a couple of years and it always reads 53-55psi which is where it should be and it was a cheap eBay gauge.
my problem is my car, 65 gto with 3/2s, when idling smells of fuel out the exhaust. The 2 outside carbs are not supposed to produce fuel when idleing. I have removed the center carb and replaced several parts, im sure its not the center carb. It could be the Holley red f.p. installed. Im thinking of turning down the pressure fromthe pump to my regulator but not sure how to do it. Reg is new too. I adjusted my reg all the way to 0 and it didnt make any difference.
Been looking for a description on how to adjust psi from the pump to my reg. cant seem to find any. Any ideas where theres info on adjusting a Holley red?
I use this. Its notoriously inaccurate and i only use them to see if fuel pressure is on or off.
The fix is actually just to remove the rubber, to equalise the pressure inside the meter.
Still, not really accurate. And opting for electronic pressure sender is really a better choice
I'm nosey, So i would take it apart and wash it out with alcohol, then refill with light oil.
Just to see if it made any difference lol.
I learn by taking things apart, always have.
Yeah, bit its outta warranty once you do. So if you mess up the reassembly, you won't get it replaced
I have modified the fuel hose to little bigger diameter with stock fuel pump result is always low fuel delivery and increased long term fuel trim.
1994 Ford Explorer 4.0 V6, starts good, runs good, but consisent low fuel pressure of 26lbs. 3 different guages all read same. Replaced fuel filter and regulator. No change. KOEO reading steady 28, KOER reading steady 26. Web search says engine quits at 25. Whats the issue?
I wanna know what is the normal fuel pressure on a 4 cylinder 1.6 car
This not just an issue with mechanical liquid filled gauges. Almost all pressure gauges, including electronic one, suffer from the similar heat related inaccuracy. Because the change occurs relatively slowly, a computer can sometimes compensate, especially if it knows the temperature of the fluid it is measuring. There are other techniques that can be used for electronics but they are all expensive.
What about a stock fuel pressure sender?
Hey Eric ok my problem is on a 1999 f150 5.4 first start up long crank after that starts up quick but the problem is at idle engine misses drivining it bucks like fuel or electical cuts on and off ohm the coils all good fuel pressure key on engine off good engine idling pressure good plugs are new new fuel pump I am lost at what to do next. any help will be great Thanks
Hey Brother whenever you can help me out I have a 95 Mustang with a 5.0 in it converted it over to carburetor it's an Edelbrock carb my problem is when the car it has good fuel pressure at first right around 5 to 6 then after it warms up it loses pressure and drops to zero and then the car starts to run bad hesitate had a problem with a couple fuel pump leaking got a brand new one on there now doesn't seem to be leaking but still having the same fuel pressure dropping issues any help would be greatly appreciated
Huh, that's interesting, used similar old gauges on alot of cars in the past. Though I never really paid attention to them. Actually, I would have said little sisters. I had a nasty little 65 mustang, had just finished working on. Went inside for lunch. Then went for a test drive around the neighborhood and what had been running great, wouldn't go over like 2k rpm and it would choke and sputter then die. Stopped and popped the hood, my fuel line was having a seizure. My pressure regulator was set all the way down. Turned it back, thinking all was ok. Nope, ran good now but wouldn't go over like 2k. Then noticed my rev limiter was also set to the bottom. After that it was all good. She had went and changed them while I was inside.
The joys of hot rodding.
I had the same problems with holley carb.it was leaking fuel and pressure dropped.u ll know when u have excessive black smoke off the exhust.also electric pumps have built in filter may get dirty.or collapsed fuel lines if rubber.😇
Is it normal for a fuel pressure tester fluctuate at idle ?
Mine fills the carb and the gauge drops to 0 and runs till the gas is out of carb will the gauge fix that?
I’m fighting a PO300 code replaced injectors,plugs wires,coils it’s a Ls swap in 89 c1500 I’m using a 255lph pump,corvette regulator,6an lines and new sending unit. I have 58 psi when it primes and at idle it has 70. Would that be causing my PO300
What if you place the gauge on a cold side of the engine bay???
Where is this mythical place you speak of?!?!
What’s the metal plate for mounted on hood ? And why do they keep selling them if they know they don’t work right ? Or should it be mounted somewhere else to prevent heat
As a guess, given its placement, I'd say it's to act as a heat sink above the turbo. It won't stop the turbo or the hood getting hot but the hood paint might survive a bit longer. As a guess, but I'm fully open to the idea that I'm wrong.
im having this same issue but with my oil pressure... same thing? I added a mechanical glycerin filled psi gauge next to my sender and its acting the same as this here.
Thanks for the hesds up i almost bought one
Hope someone can help. My fuel pressure regulator is working but it does not drop when connecting a vacuum line. It’s supposed to drop around 10psi when connecting a vacuum line but it just stays the same.
Well that counts out my problem because I don't have a gauge on my crown vic...its running rough and cutting off..I check the pressure at the rail and it just shoots up a little...I compared it to my grand marquis that I just put a new pump on and it sprays out with plenty of pressure...so I thought I needed a new pump in the crown but after installing the new one it hasn't changed anything...I can hear the pump humming and shutting off like normal but hardly any pressure...beautiful Florida day here but feeling a bit discouraged....I know there is a solution
It's been 3 months now I'm chasing this issue with my car..the fuel pressure don't drop but on the hwy the car hesitates and when I step on the gas I see the fuel gauge drop 2 to 3 psi instead of going up..I also noticed the pressure would drop significantly when I turn the key on and let the car sit for about an hour so far I heard it's the fuel regulator so I'll go ahead and change that first since it's the cheapest thing..
So fuel pressure hasn’t changed, it’s just the gauge giving you false information, right? Could you adjust the pressure on your fuel pressure regulator on a cold or warm engine, disregarding the gauges info after it gets hot?
Half the video is a sales pitch 🔥
Selling what?
Thanks!
Myself, Charles and most bikers give their approval on your beard, Eric.
Grèat info thanks , i am staying dirty 😉👊